DLA A-A-55095 A-2004 COVERALLS UTILITY《实用工作服》.pdf

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1、 INCH -POUND A-A-55095A January 12, 2004 SUPERSEDING A-A-55095 March 10, 1993 COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTION COVERALLS, UTILITY 1. SCOPE. This commercial item description covers the requirements for a general purpose utility coverall. The coveralls are intended for wear by the Department of Defense mal

2、e and female personnel. These coveralls are a modified commercial item since they require a specific military appearance (See paragraph 3.1). 2. CLASSIFICATION. 2.1 Classes. The coverall shall be of one type in the following classes: Class 1 Blue 3329 Class 2 Green 3454 Beneficial comments, (recomme

3、ndations, additions, deletions) and any pertinent data which may be of use in improving this document should be addressed to: Defense Supply Center Philadelphia, Clothing and Textiles Directorate, Attn: DSCP-CRDD, 700 Robbins Avenue, Philadelphia, PA 19111-5096. AMSC N/A FSC 8405 Provided by IHSNot

4、for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-A-A-55095A 2 2.2 Sizes The coveralls shall be furnished in the following sizes: Length Sizes Extra Short 34 36 38 40 42 Short 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 Regular 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52 54 Long 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52 5

5、4 Extra Long 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52 54 Extra Extra Long 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52 54 3. SALIENT CHARACTERISTICS 3.1 General Description. The coverall (see figures 1 and 2) shall have long sleeves with adjustable cuffs; two breast pockets with flaps, two hip pockets; one with a flap and one with

6、out a flap; two front patch pockets without flaps; a two piece upper back with a single pleat in each panel at the waistband, a waistband with belt loops, a pencil slot in the left breast pocket flap, a convertible collar, and a double slider slide fastener fly front. The left front facing shall be

7、finished with a continuous line of stitching through the front starting at the neck and terminating at the crotch seam (J-stitch) catching both slide fastener tapes. The right front facing shall be finished with a continuous line of stitching through the front starting at the neck and terminating at

8、 the crotch seam. The neck shall be closed under the collar with a button and buttonhole (see figure 3). When coverall is in a fully closed position (buttoned, snapped, and zipped), the collar/neckline apex shall meet at the center front. A gripper type snap fastener shall secure the fly front just

9、above the top of the slide fastener tape and centered between scoops of the slide fastener and the finished edge. The coverall shall have a hanger loop with a 2-inch free opening positioned inside the back neck. 3.1.1 Pockets. The coverall shall have six pockets, one pocket on each breast with sewn-

10、down flap covering the top of the pocket, the left breast pocket flap shall have a pencil slot (see figure 4), one pocket on each leg front, caught in the waistband with side of the pocket caught in side seam and one pocket on each back panel just below waistband. The left hip pocket shall have a se

11、wn-down flap covering the top of the pocket. The front patch pockets (lower front pocket) shall have a 6 (+1/8) inch opening. The breast and hip pockets shall have a 1 (+1/8) inch top hem. 3.1.2 Belt loops. The coverall shall have five belt loops located as follows: one on each side seam, one on the

12、 center back seam, one centered on each front lower pocket. The belt loops shall finish 2-1/2(+1/8) inches long and (+1/16) inch wide. Belt loops shall be double stitched not less than inch gage. The belt loops shall be attached by laying the belt loop flat and folding under the top and bottom. The

13、belt loops shall be bartacked at the top and bottom. The bartacks shall be 1/16 to 1/8 inch from folded edge. The belt loop shall lay flat after attaching to the coverall. There shall be no fullness under the belt loop. Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without lic

14、ense from IHS-,-,-A-A-55095A 3 3.1.3 Waistband. The waistband shall finish 1-3/4 (+1/8) inches wide and shall be centered over upper and lower body seam. The waistband shall be edge stitched 1/16 inch from upper and lower edge. 3.1.4 Cuffs. The cuff of the sleeves shall have square ends and a two bu

15、tton adjustment on the sleeve tab (see figure 1). The buttons shall be positioned on each sleeve cuff with the first button (+1/8) inch from the finished square edge of the cuff and the second button 1-1/4 (+1/8) inches from the first button when measured from center to center of the button. The fin

16、ished cuff shall measure 1-3/4 inches in length. 3.1.5 Sleeve placket. The sleeve shall have a lapped sleeve placket opening, measuring 5-1/4 (+1/4) inches. 3.1.6 Bottom hem. The finished bottom leg hems shall measure 5/8 (+1/8). 3.1.7 Bartacks The coveralls bartacks shall be located in the followin

17、g areas for reinforcement: horizontal bar tack on top folded ends of slide fastener tape through front; horizontal bartacks at top corners of both hip pockets; horizontal or vertical bartack at lower corner of lower front pocket openings; horizontal bartack at upper corner of lower front pocket open

18、ings (see figure 4), horizontal bartack across seam allowance at top of sleeve opening; vertical bartack superimposed on inner row of stitching on bottom corner of all pocket flaps; vertical bartacks according to marks on pattern for pencil pocket opening; horizontal bartack on “J” stitching at top

19、of crotch seam through all plies of slide fastener tape and left and right fronts of coveralls. 3.1.8 Figure. The figures 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, and 6 are furnished for information purposes only. When inconsistencies exist between the written description and the figure, the written description shall govern.

20、 3.2 Material 3.2.1 Basic material. The basic material shall be a 2 up, 1 down, right or left hand twill that contains 65% + 5% polyester fiber and not less than 30% cotton based on the dry weight of the desized specimens when tested as specified in Table I. The color of the cloth shall be shade Blu

21、e 3329 for the Class 1 coverall and Green 3454 for the Class 2 coverall. The yarns shall be a blend of polyester and cotton drawn and evenly spun into singles yarn for both the warp and filling. The cloth shall be singed, desized, scoured, dyed, heat set and treated to provide a supple hand and dura

22、ble crease-resistant finish equal to the standard sample. The use of sulfur dyes or dyes containing elementary sulfur or sulfur compounds capable of oxidation to sulfuric acid is prohibited. The material shall meet the following requirements: Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networkin

23、g permitted without license from IHS-,-,-A-A-55095A 4 TABLE I Requirements and test methods. Characteristics Test Method Requirements Fiber content Polyester Cotton AATCC-20A 65 + 5 percent not less than 30 percent Weight, oz/yd2 ASTM-D 3776, Option C minimum - 5.0 maximum - 6.75 Yarns per inch (min

24、) Warp Filling ASTM-D-3775 125 54 Breaking Strength, lbs. (min) Warp Filling ASTM-D 5034 165 65 pH AATCC-81 5.5 8.5 Weave Visual 2/1 right or left hand twill Sulfur content FED-STD-2020 slight trace Colorfastness Laundering (3 cycles) Perspiration Light (40hours) Crocking dry wet AATCC 61 Test 3A 1/

25、, 2/ AATCC 15 3/ AATCC 16, option A AATCC 8 4/ not less than grade 3 not less than grade 3 not less than grade 3 not less than grade 3 not less than grade 2 Dimensional stability AATCC 150 (1) VA 1 + 3 percent (maximum) 1/ The specimen must be dried after each of the 3 laundering cycles. 2/ On the c

26、olor transfer cloth evaluation, only the stain on the cotton and polyester fibers of the color transfer cloth shall be evaluated. 3/ Both acid and alkaline perspiration solutions are to be tested. 4/ Use AATCC Chromatic Transference Scale. 5/ Unless otherwise specified, a certificate of compliance s

27、hall be submitted and will be acceptable for the stated requirements. 3.2.1.1 Shade inspection The color and appearance of the dyed and finished cloth shall match the standard sample when viewed under filtered tungsten lamps which approximate artificial daylight having a correlated color temperature

28、 of 7500K (+200K) with illumination of 100 (+20) foot candles, and shall be a good match to its applicable standard sample under incandescent lamplight at 2300K (+200K). Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-A-A-55095A 5 3.2.2 Thread. The t

29、hread used shall be cotton covered-polyester core thread, Ticket No. 50, 2 ply, Tex 36-45 for needle, and Ticket No. 70, 2 ply, Tex 31-35 for bobbin, conforming to A-A-50199. The size 70 is used for overedge stitch and multi-thread chain. The color shall be a good match to the basic material. The dy

30、ed thread shall show “not less than grade 3” or “good” colorfastness to laundering and light when tested as specified in A-A-50199. 3.2.3 Buttons. The buttons shall be a melamine formaldehyde composition, 30 line, 4 hole sewing button in accordance with style shown in Figure 6. The button color shal

31、l be a good match to Navy shade Dark Blue 501 for the class 1 coveralls and Navy shade green 600 for the class 2 coveralls. 3.2.4 Buttonholes. The buttonholes shall be eyelet-end, taper-bar type worked over gimp with the purling on the outside and the ends of the buttonholes stitching and gimp secur

32、ely tacked. The buttonhole shall have a minimum cut length of (+1/16) inch to accommodate the required button. The cuff buttonhole shall be placed 5/8 (+1/16) inch from the edge of the cuff. 3.2.5 Gimp. The gimp used for reinforcing the buttonholes shall be type I or II size No. 8 of A-A-50198. The

33、color shall be a good match to the basic material. The dyed gimp shall show “not less than grade 3” or “good” colorfastness to laundering when tested as specified in A-A-50198. 3.2.6 Slide fastener. The brass slide fastener for the front closure shall be a double slider non-separating, reversible, w

34、ith an automatic lock, open top, and bottom stop. All metal components of the slide fastener shall be fabricated of brass. The width of the closed chain shall be a minimum of 0.180 inch and a maximum of 0.310 inch, the single tape shall be 9/16 (+1/32) inch, and the thickness of the tape shall be a

35、minimum of 0.035 inch. The color of the tape shall be a good match to the basic material and shall show “not less than grade 3” when tested for colorfastness to laundering and light in accordance with AATCC 61 Test 3A 1/, 2/ and AATCC 16, option A. The slide fastener shall have a short pull tab. All

36、 components shall be from the same supplier. 1/ The specimen must be dried after each of the 3 laundering cycles. 2/ On the color transfer cloth evaluation, only the stain on the cotton and polyester fibers of the color transfer cloth shall be evaluated. 3.2.7 Snap fastener. The snap fastener closur

37、e shall consist of a button and socket (female half) and stud and eyelet (male half) and be constructed from non-corrosive materials. The snap fastener for the fly front shall be 16-17 line, black finish, pronged ring head type. The components shall be firmly engaged when fastened and still permit d

38、isengagement with a reasonable, properly applied force. The complete fastener shall be of one manufacturers construction only. 3.3 Patterns. The government shall furnish a complete set of patterns. The pattern generally provides for a seam allowance of inch for joining seams, except for the followin

39、g seams: a inch seam allowance shall be used to attach the facing to lower front pocket opening; to attach the cuffs to the sleeves, to attach pocket flaps; to seam top collar to under collar. A 3/8 inch seam allowance shall be used for the waistband joining seam and to attach the collar to the neck

40、line. The breast pocket, breast Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-A-A-55095A 6 pocket flaps, hip pockets, and hip pocket flap shall conform to the finished templates with a tolerance of +1/16 inch. The government patterns shall be used

41、to create the contractors working patterns. Minor modifications are permitted when using automatic equipment. These modifications shall not alter the appearance, serviceability, or dimensional requirements cited in this document. The following pattern list is provided to ensure the pattern set is co

42、mplete: Pattern List. Pattern Part Piece Name Abbreviation Cut Amount Front Upper Right Side FRT-UPR-RT 1 Front Upper Left Side FRNT-UP-LF 1 Back Upper BACK-UPR 2 Front Lower Left Side FRNT-LWR-L 1 Front Lower Right Side FRNT-LWR-R 1 Back Lower BACK-LWR 2 Top Sleeve TOPSLEEVE 2 Under Sleeve UNDRSLEE

43、VE 2 Front Facing FRONT-FCNG 2 Front Patch Pocket FR-PTH-PKT 2 Front Patch Pocket Facing FR-PHPKFAC 2 Breast Pocket BRST-PKT 2 Finished Breast Pocket Alternate BRSTPK-ALT 2 Breast Pocket Flap BRST-PKFLP 2 Hip Pocket HIP-POCKET 2 Hip Pocket Flap HIP-PK-FLP 1 Hip Pocket Alternate HIP-PK-ALT 2 Cuff CUF

44、F 2 Finished Breast Pocket Template F-BRST-PKT - Finished Breast Pocket Alternate F-BRPK-ALT - Finished Breast Pocket Flap F-BRSPKFLP - Finished Hip Pocket F-HIP-PKT - Finished Hip Pocket Flap F-HIPKTFLP - Finished Hip Pocket Alternate F-HPKT-ALT - Waistband WAISTBAND 1 Collar COLLAR 2 Collar Interl

45、ining 1/ COLLAR-INT 1 Collar Alternate COLLAR-ALT 1 Collar Interlining Alternate 1/ CLRINT-ALT 1 1/ As an alternate to the basic material the collar interlining may be cut from ends or finishing seconds. Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-

46、,-A-A-55095A 7 3.4 Seams and stitches. All lockstitching shall have 10-12 stitches per inch. All overedge stitching shall have 8-10 stitches per inch. All seams, except the seat seam and front crotch seam, shall be single needle stitched face to face inch from raw edges, the two raw edges shall be o

47、veredged together. The seat seam shall be joined with a double lapped double stitched seam or with a double needle seat seamer with two rows of stitching 1/64 to 1/32 inch apart. The front crotch seam shall be a mock double lapped double needle seam. The top and sides of the pocket flaps, the sides

48、and bottom of breast and hip pockets, and the top, bottom and side of the front lower pockets shall be double stitched 1/16 inch from folded edge with a inch gage. The collar and front lapel shall be topstitched inch from the edge. The lower hip pocket facing shall be edgestitched 1/16 inch from the

49、 inside folded edge. The leg bottom shall have a rolled hem with stitching 1/16 to 1/8 inch from the inside folded edge. The cuffs and waistband shall be edgestitched 1/16 inch from all folded edges. All stitching shall be backtacked at least inch if not crossed by another line of stitching. Belt loops shall be double stitched not less than inch gage. Joining seams