NAVY MIL-DTL-28902 C-1997 TROUSERS MEN-S - MUSICIANS《男士长裤》.pdf

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1、 flIL-DTL-28902C 99999Ob 2054399 58b INCH-POUND MIL-DTL-28902C (MC) 28 July 1997 SUPERSEDING MIL-T-28902B (MC) 28 March 1994 DETAIL SPECIFICATION TROUSERS, MENS - MUSICIANS This specification is approved for use by U.S. Marine Corps, Department of the Navy, and is available for use by all Department

2、s and Agencies of the Department of Defense. 1. SCOPE 1.1. Scope. This specification covers requirements for musicians trousers. 1.2. Classification. The trousers will be of one type in the following sizes and lengths as specified (see 6.2). Beneficial comments (recommendations, additions, deletions

3、) and any pertinent data which may be of use in improving this document should be addressed to the Commander (PSE-D), Marine Corps Systems Command, Quantico, VA 22134-5010 by using the Standardization Document Improvement Proposal (DD Form 1426) appearing at the end of this document or by letter. AM

4、SC N/A FSC 8405 DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited. Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-28902C E 9999906 2054400 O28 m MIL-DTL-28 902C (MC) Schedule of sizes X-Short 26 27. 28 29 30 31

5、 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 Short 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 Regular 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 Long 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 X-Long 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38

6、39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS 2.1. General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3 and 4 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples.

7、While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements documents cited in sections 3 and 4 of this specification, whether or not they are listed. 2.2. Government documents. 2.2.1 Specifications, standards,

8、 and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those listed in the issue of the Department of Defense Index of Specifications and Standards (DoDISS) and

9、supplement thereto, cited in the solicitation (see 6.2) . SPEC1 FICATIONS FEDERAL A-A-5 O 18 6 - A-A-50196 - A-A-5 O 198 - A-A-52 07 1 - A-A-52 O 94 - Cloth, Buckram, Woven and Nonwoven Thread, Silk Thread, Gimp, Cotton, Buttonhole Tape, Textile, Cotton, General Purpose, (Unbleached, Bleached or Dye

10、d) Thread, Cotton 2 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-28902C (MC) A-A-52 1 O 6 - Cloth, Twill.or Plain Weave, Polyester and DDD-L-20 - Label: For Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage, V-B-871 - Button, Sewing Hole, and Button, Staple

11、 V-F-106 - Fastener, Slide, Interlocking Polyester Blend (General Use) (Plastic) DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE MIL-C-10176 - Cloth, Gabardine: Wool, Polyester and Wool MIL-C-29405 - Cloth, Broadcloth: Wool and Wool/Nylon STANDARDS FEDERAL FED-STD-751 - Stitches, Seams and Stitchings DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE MI

12、L-STD-1488 - Provisions for Evaluating Quality of Trousers (Unless otherwise indicated, copies of the above specifications, standards, handbooks are available from the Standardization Document Order Desk, 700 Robbins Avenue, Building 4D, Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094.) 2.3. Non-Government publications

13、. The following document(s) form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of the documents which are DoD adopted are those listed in the issue of the DoDISS cited in the solicitation. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of documents not listed

14、 in the DoDISS are the issues of the documents cited in the solicitation (see 6.2). Department of Defense (DoD) Standard Color Card of Official Standardized Shades for Sewing Threads 1968 Department of Defense (DoD) Standard Shades for Buttons 1966 (Application for copies should be addressed to the

15、Color Association of the United States, Inc., 409 W. 44th Street, New York, NY 10016-0927). 2.4. Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text 3 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without

16、license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-28902C 9999906 205YY02 9TO MIL-DTL-289OSC (MC) of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained. 3. REQUIREMENTS 3.1. Standard sample. Standard samples are furni

17、shed solely for guidance and information to the contractor (see 6.3). Variations from this specification may appear in the sample, in which case this specification shall govern. 3.2. First article. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection in accordance with 4

18、.3. 3.3. Materials. 3.3.1 Basic material. The basic material shall be cloth, gabardine, polyester/wool, sky blue, shade 2319, 10.6 ounce, conforming to type II, class 12 of MIL-C-10176, or approved commercial 16 ounce wool elastique. 3.3.2 Ornamental stripes. The material for the stripes shall be cl

19、oth, wool, broadcloth, scarlet, shade 2501 and white conforming to type I of MIL-C-29405 or as an alternate, the white strip may be fabricated from the polyester/rayon, gabardine white cloth. 3.3.3 Pocketinq, lininq, and interlininq. The material for lining the pockets, waistband, right fly, pocket

20、flaps, crotch, left fly interlining, and pocket stay shall be black cloth, twill or plain weave polyester or polyester blend conforming to class 1 of A-A-52106. - 3.3.4 Buckram. The material for interlining waistbands shall be cloth, buckram, cotton, natural shade, conforming to type I of A-A-50186.

21、 3.3.5 Hook and eye. The hook and eye shall be North and Judd (Hook Flex H-49, K-50, H-89 and E-90); Universal Button Co. (Talon #3, #7 and #8 hook with #8 eye or #85 eye); Akim Co. or Patwin, Inc., Junior Series, type JB; Stimpson (P-536, D-4086, D-4457, D-4288); Rau (OA50, OX 1256, 080415), Patwin

22、, Inc. (Slim-Slak with MB eye, and Slim-Slak) or equal. The finish shall be nickel plate. Prior to the use of an “or equal“ item, 4 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-HIL-DTL-28902C 99qOb 2054403 837 MIL-DTL-28902C (MC) the supplier shal

23、l submit the item with supporting data to the contracting officer for approval. 3.3.6 Slide fastener. The slide fastener for the fly shall conform to type I, style 1, brass, natural finish, size LS, with the short tab pull as specified in V-F-106. The tape shall show good fastness to wet (dry) clean

24、ing. The color of the tape shall be black, shade G, cable No. 66507. 3.3.7 Thread and simp. 3.3.7.1. Thread. All outside seaming and stitching shall be performed with silk thread conforming to type I of A-A-50196 and all other seaming and stitching with cotton thread conforming to A-A-52094 as follo

25、ws: Operation Topstitching Inseaming, outseaming, seat seaming Bartacks, inside Bartacks, outside Serging Attach belt loops Buttonholes Buttons All other seaming and stitching - III III II II II III II I - - Ticket No. A A A 40 A 70 A A A 24 40 Ply 3 3 3 3 3 2 3 3 3 4 3 Mat er ia1 Silk Cotton Cotton

26、 Cotton Silk Cotton Cotton Silk Cotton Cotton Cotton !Jeedle or Bobbin Needle Bobbin Both Bobbin Needle Both Bobbin Bobbin Needle Both Both 3.3.7.2. Gimp. The buttonhole gimp shall be cotton, ticket No. 8, soft or glazed finish, conforming to type I or II of A-A-50198. 3.3.7.3. Color. The color of t

27、he thread and gimp shall be blue, shade AC, cable No. 66045 and scarlet, shade W, cable No. 66040 for sewing the scarlet stripe (see DoD Standardized Color Card of Official Standardized Shades for Sewing Threads 1968). 3.3.7.4. Colorfastness. The thread and gimp shall show good fastness to wet (dry)

28、 cleaning and, in addition, the silk thread 5 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-28902C (MC) shall show good fastness to light when tested as specified in applicable thread specifications. 3.3.8 Buttons. Buttons for the back pock

29、ets and fly tab closure shall conform to type II, class D, glossy finish, style 4, 22 line of V-B-871. The color of the buttons shall be blue, shade BV, cable No. 62003 (see DoD Standard Shades for Buttons 1966). 3.3.9 Labels. Each pair of trousers shall have a combination identification-size-instru

30、ction label. The combination label shall conform to type VI, class 14 of DDD-L-20. The label shall conform to the colorfastness and writing test requirements of DDD-L-20. The content (inscription) and format of the combination label shall be as follows: Nomenclature: Fiber Content: Size: Contract nu

31、mber: Name of contractor: DRY CLEAN ONLY 3.4. Desiqn. The trousers shall be the U.S. Marine Corps design as shown on Figure.1, having a two-piece lined waistband with hook and eye closure and outlet at center back, french-type fly with slide fastener closure, seven belt loops, two back pockets with

32、flaps to button, and hip darts. The trousers shall have ornamental scarlet and white stripes at the outseams. 3.5. Patterns. Standard patterns will be furnished to the contractor by the Government. The standard patterns shall not be altered in any way and shall be used only as a guide for cutting th

33、e contractors working patterns. patterns shall be identical to the standard patterns. The standard patterns provide a 1/2 inch allowance for crotch seam and 3/8 inch allowance for all other seams, except as otherwise specified herein, and seat seam outlet at waist in accordance with patterns. The pa

34、tterns provide a three inch allowance for bottom turnup of legs. The standard patterns show size, directional lines for cutting, and are marked and notched for proper placement and assembly of the component parts. The contractors working 6 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking p

35、ermitted without license from IHS-,-,-. Waistband interlining MIL-DTL-28702C 2 79999Ob 2054405 bOT = MIL-DTL-28902C (MC) 3.5.1 List of pattern parts. The component parts for the trousers shall be cut from the specified materials in accordance with the pattern parts indicated below: ITEM 10 11 12 13

36、14 15 16 PATTERN NOMENCLATURE I NO. OF CUT PARTS Material: Basic Front Back Right fly Left fly Hip pocket cord Hip pocket bearers Flap, hip pocket Waistband Buttonhole tab Material: Cloth, twill or plain weave polyester Hip pocket Crotch lining Left fly interlining Right fly lining Hip pocket flap l

37、ining 2 2 2 1 2 Waistband lining I 2 Material: Cloth, buckram, cotton 3.6. Construction. 3.6.1 Manufacturinq requirements. The trousers shall be manufactured in strict accordance with the operations and the stitch, seam, and stitching types specified in Table I. The supplier is not required to follo

38、w the exact sequence of the operations listed in Table I but all operations specified shall be used to manufacture the trousers. 3.6.1.1. Stitches, seams and stitchinqs. The stitch, seam, and stitching types specified in Table I shall conform to FED-STD-751. 3.6.1.2. Overedqe stitchinq. Overedge or

39、serge stitching shall be done on serging machines with knife attachment properly set to trim the raw edge when overedged without cutting the material. 7 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-3.6.1.3. Tacki 2054406 54b m q and backstitchina.

40、 Ends of se ms and stitching produced with stitch type 301, when not caught in other seams or stitching, shall be backtacked not less than 1/4 inch. Thread breaks (all stitch types) shall be secured by stitching back or break not less than 1/2 inch. When stitch type 401 is used, ends of seams and st

41、itching shall be caught in other seams or stitching, and skipped stitches and thread breaks may be repaired using stitch type 301 backstitched not less than 1/2 inch on each side of the skip or break. 3.6.2 Shade markinq. The component parts shall be shade marked to insure uniform shade and size thr

42、oughout the garment. Any method of shade marking may be used except: a. Corrosive metal fastening devices. b. Sew-on shade tickets. c. Adhesive type tickets which show discolorations or leave traces of paper or adhesive.mass on the material upon the removal of the tickets. TABLE I. Manufacturinq req

43、uirements. NO 1 OPERATION Cutt inq. a. Cut the trousers in strict accordance with the patterns furnished by the Government. b. Cut the material in the direction indicated by directional lines on the patterns. Lay fronts and backs so that the directional lines are in the warp direction. c. Cut all co

44、mponent parts for the trousers from one piece of the basic material, except the following parts may be cut from ends but when so cutr the parts shall harmonize with the shade of the trousers: belt loopsr left and right flies, fly buttonhole tab, pocket bearers and facings. STCH TYPE SEAM/ STCH TYPE

45、STCH/IN NDL BOB/ LPR . 8 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-NO 1 - 2 3 4 NIL-DTL-Z902C S 999990b 2054407 482 MIL-DTL-28902C (MC) TABLE I. Manufacturinq requirements - Continued. OPERATION luttinq. (cont d) 3. Cut the pockets on the strai

46、ght Df the material in accordance with patterns. Cutting of pockets in the direction of the filling is not permitted except when it is essential for economical use of the naterial. e. Cut the stripe material in the warp direction. Cut one white stripe 7/8 inches wide and two scarlet stripes 1-1/8 in

47、ches wide. Replacement of damaqed parts. a. Replace any part containing damages at time of cutting, such as holes or serious weakening defects such as smashes, multiple floats and clubs likely to develop into holes. b. Replace any part damaged during the manufacturing process by needle chews which m

48、ay be expected to . develop into a hole, scissors or knife cuts, tears, holes, mends or burns, and large exposed drill holes. Shade markinq. a. Mark or ticket the component parts to ensure a uniform shade and proper assembly throughout the trousers, except those parts specified in operation l.c, whi

49、ch may be cut from ends and need not match each other. Tickets shall conform to 3.6.2. Overedqe stitch trousers. Finished appearance. The overedge stitching shall be securely caught in the fabric. The raw edge of the overedged material shall be properly trimmed. STCH TYPE SEAM/ STCH TYPE STCH/IN N DL BOB/ LPR 9 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from