DLA A-A-55091-1993 SHIRT MAN-S POLYESTER AND WOOL LONG SLEEVE《男式长袖聚酯和羊毛衬衫》.pdf

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1、A-A-55091 D 9999974 12750 Tob D A-A-5509 1 25 February 1993 COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTION SHIRT, MANS, POLYESTER AND WOOL, LONG SLEEVE The General Services Administration has authorized the use of this Commercial Item Description in preference to MIL-S-29149. Abstract. This Commercial Item Description

2、 covers the requirements for a dark blue polyester/wool shirt. The shirts are intended for wear by male Navy personnel as part of the winter working blue uniform. Classification, The shirts shall be of one type. Salient Characteristics. The shirt shall have a six button front, turned back button sta

3、y, front plait, dress style shirt. The shirt shall have a superimposed yoke on a full back, collar, leaf, collar stand and two patch pockets with buttoned down flaps. The sleeves shall have a placket at the cuff opening with two buttons on each cuff for adjustment (see Figure 1). The pocket flaps sh

4、all have one buttonhole centered and 3/8 to 1/2 inch from the bottom edge of flap. The flap shall be edge stitched 3/16 to 1/4 inch from edges and the top of flap corners shall be tacked. The pocket depth at center shall finished 5-5/8 (- + 1/8) inches and the finished width shall be 4-3/4 (+ 1/8) i

5、nches wide for sizes 12 to 14-1/2 and 6 (2 1/8) inches long and 5-1/4 (+ 1/8) inches wide for sizes 15-18. The inside left front pocket shall have a pencil pocket. The bottom of the pencil pocket shall be unhemmed. / Beneficial comments (recommendations, additions, deletions) and any pertinent data

6、which may be of use in improving this document should be addressed to: Defense Personnel Support Center, Clothing and Textiles Directorate, Attn: DPSC-FSSD, 2800 South 20th Street, Philadelphia, PA 19101-8419, by using the Standardization Document Improvement Proposal (DD Form 1426) appearing at the

7、 end of this document or by letter. FSC 8405 AMSC N/A DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited. Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-A-A-55091 = 9999974 0127753 992 I. A-A-5 5 O9 1 Fiqure. Figure is

8、furnished for information purposes only. When inconsistencies exist between the written commercial item description and the figure, the written commercial item description shall govern. Material. Basic material. The basic material for the shirt shall be a washable tropical polyester and wool blend,

9、shade Blue 3346 conforming to the requirements in Table I. Table I. Requirements and test methods Characteristics Requirements Test Method Yarns per inch (minimum) Warp Filling 50 44 ASTM-D 3775-85 Option C Option C ASTM-D 3775-85 Weight (ounces per yd, 56-inch 10.0 0.5 ASTM-D 3776-85 width) Option

10、C Breaking strength (minimum ( pounds ) Warp Filling 100 80 ASTM-D 5034-90 3/ - 3/ ASTM-D 5034-90 Tearing strength (minimum ( pounds ) Warp 5.0 ASTM-D 1424-83 Filling 5.0 ASTM-D 1424-83 Shrinkage percent (maximum) Warp 3.0 - 2/ Filling 2.5 - 2/ Weave Plain Visual L/ i/ “pass“ or “fail“. 2/ The test

11、for dimensional stability shall be performed in accordance wth AATCC TM 135, laundered n a Permanent Press cycles. One determination per sample unit and the results reported as Cycle (140 F b ) and tumble dried at 140 F8 for five (5) complete 3/ One edge of the long dimension of the specimen shall b

12、e ravelled until a continuous yarn, the length of the specimen is obtained 2 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- 44P A-A-55091 = 999997Y 0327752 8b9 A-A-5509 1 Interlininq. The material used for interlining the left front plait, collarst

13、and, collar, pocket flaps, and cuffs shall conform to the requirements of A-A-50135. Thread. The thread for seaming, stitching, buttonholes, and button sewing shall be covered polyester-core thread, ticket No. 50, 2 ply and 70, 2 ply and shall conform to Type I of A-A-50199. The thread shall be dyed

14、 to match Black AA, Cable No. 66043. The finished thread shall show a minimum of “good“ colorfastness to laundering, perspiration and light. Buttons. The buttons shall be 25 line anchor insignia type and shall match shade Black, BT Cable No. 62001 and shall conform to class 1 of MIL-B-17143. The but

15、tons shall be sew on to correspond with buttonholes placed as follows: stand with the center of the button 3/4 (2 1/8) inch from the end. All stitches shall be in the buttons grooves (vertical when worn) except for the cross-over stitch. (button stay). The center of the buttons shall be 5/8 (2 1/8)

16、inch from the edge. All stitches shall be in the buttons grooves (vertical when worn) except for the cross-over stitch. Cine button shall be centered in each pocket to correspond with buttonhole in flap. All stitches shall be in the buttons grooves (vertical when worn) except for the cross-over stit

17、ch. One button shall be centered in the right end of the collar Five buttons shall be centered on the right front edge NOTE: The button shall be sewn through all plies of the pocket hem. Two buttons shall be centered in each cuff with the center of the buttons 1/2 (2 1/8) inch and 1-1/2 (2 1/8) inch

18、es respectively from the end of the cuff. All stitches shall be in the buttons grooves (vertical when worn) except for the cross- over stitch. Collar stavs. The collar stays shall be made from polyethylene terephthalate plastic sheet. The thickness shall be 0.010 (- + 0.001) inch, the color shall be

19、 natural (clear or opaque) and the transparency and optical properties shall not apply. The stay shall measure not less than 1/4 inch or more than 3/8 inch wide and 2-3/4 (+ 1/16) inches in length when tested as specified in table II. Both ends shall be round, pointed, cut on an angle or any combina

20、tion thereof. When other than round, points shall be rounded. The stays shall be positioned so that on the finished shirt they are at a 25 to 30 degree angle from the front edge of the collar and the tapered ends are fitted into the collar points. The collar stays shall conform to the physical requi

21、rements in Table III. a Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-A-A-55091 9999974 0127753 715 A-A-5509 1 Table II. Requirements and test methods Component Characteristic Requirement Test method Collar stays Width Not less than 1/4 inch Visual

22、 or more than 3/8 inch wide Length 2-3/4 (2 1/16) Visual Labels. Personal/identification/instruction label. Each shirt shall have a combination personal/identification/instruction label with the information applied by either marking, direct printing, stamping or stenciling. The printing shall be whi

23、te and show fastness to laundering. The label may also be a nonwoven, spunbonded polyester cloth or nonwoven, 80/20 polyester/cellulose cloth, impregnated, acrylic coated, mildew-resistant printed label, with black printing. Either label shall bear the following inscription: NAME : SERVICE NO: NAME

24、OF ITEM: SHIRT, MANS (POLYESTER AND WOOL LONG SLEEVE) FIBER CONTENT: 75% POLYESTER 25% WOOL NAME OF CONTRACTOR: NAME OF MANUFACTURER: (IF OTHER THAN CONTRACTOR) CONTRACT NO: DLA-100-00-O-0000 (EXAMPLE) LAUNDERING INSTRUCTIONS MACHINE WASH, PERMANENT PRESS CYCLE, WARM WATER (120 DEGREES MAX.). DO NOT

25、 BLEACH, TUMBLE DRY, MEDIUM HEAT, REMOVE IMMEDIATELY. MAY ALSO BE DRY CLEANED. OR FOLLOW NAVEDTRA 414-01-45-81, FORMULA III Size label. Each shirt shall have a size label. The inscription shall be as follows: 12 - 27 SL (Example) STOCK NO. 8405-00-000-0000 (Example) NOTE: The abbreviation for sleeve

26、 length shall be SL. 4 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-b A-A-55093 9999974 0327754 b5L A-A-5509 1 Patterns. Standard patterns to be used to cut working patterns will be furnished by the Government. The working patterns shall be identi

27、cal to the Government patterns. Neither the Government patterns nor the working patterns shall be altered in any way, except that additional notches for use during construction are permitted on the working patterns. Also, minor modifications are permitted where necessary when using automatic equipme

28、nt. These modifications shall not alter the dimensional, serviceability or appearance requirements cited in the specification. The standard patterns provide an allowance of 1/4 inch for regular seams and 1/2 inch for double-lapped and double-stitched seams and safety- stitched seams. Sizes and Measu

29、rements. The finished shirts shall conform to the measurements below (See Figure 1). All measurements and tolerances are expressed in inches. Sizes and finished measurements Size A Chest B C Length Collar stand 12 12-1/2 13 13-1/2 14 14-1/2 15 15-1/2 16 16-1/2 17 17-1/2 18 38 38-3/4 39-1/2 41 42-1/2

30、 44 45-1/2 47 49 51 53 55 57 27-7/8 28-1/8 28-3/8 28-3/4 29-1/8 29-1/2 29-7/8 30-1/4 30-5/8 31-3/8 31-3/4 31 32 12-1/2 13 13-1/2 14 14-1/2 15 15-1/2 16 16-1/2 17 17-1/2 18 18-1/2 Tolerance +1 - 1/2 - + 1/2 + 1/4 - 1/8 5 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without lic

31、ense from IHS-,-,-A-A-55091 = 9999974 0127755 598 A-A-5509 1 Sizes and finished measurements Size D Sleeve length 12 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 12-1/2 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 13 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 13-1/2 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 14 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 14-1/2 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 15 30 31

32、32 33 34 35 36 37 38 15-1/2 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 16 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 16-1/2 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 17 32 33 34 35 36 37 17-1/2 32 33 34 35 36 37 18 32 33 34 35 36 Tolerance - +1/2 +1/2 +1/2 +1/2 +1/2 +1/2 +1/2 +1/2 +1/2 +1/2 +J/2 NOTE: Except where otherwise specified, the shirt shall be but

33、toned and laid flat and smooth when measurements are taken. (A) of the armhole from folded edge to folded edge. Chest - Twice the measurement taken across the chest at base (B) shirt along the center back. (C) flat and smooth, measure across the inside length of the collar stand from the center of t

34、he collar button to the far-end of the corresponding buttonhole. Lenqth - Measure from the neckline seam to the bottom of the Collar stand - With the shirt unbuttoned and the collar laid (D) Sleeve lenqth - With sleeve extended, measure from the center back at lower edge of collar stand seam to bott

35、om edge of cuff. Workmanship. The finished shirts shall conform to the quality of product established by this document. shall not exceed the applicable acceptable quality levels. The occurrence of defects 6 a e e Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license fr

36、om IHS-,-,-i Y A-A-55091 = 9999974 OL2775b 424 A-A-5509 1 Product Demonstration Model. When required, offerers shall submit samples of their intended production. The Product Demonstration Model will consist of units independently developed. evaluated by the government. Evaluation criteria and basis

37、for award are contained in the solicitation. Product Demonstration Models will be retained by the government. One (1) Product Demonstration Model approved by DPSC under the resultant contract will serve as a manufacturing standard for the corresponding production items delivered under this contract.

38、 advised that the Product Demonstration Model does not relieve the successful offerer of his responsibility to perform in accordance with the Commercial Item Description specified above. 0 Product Demonstration Models will be analyzed and Offerers are Qualitv Assurance Certification. The contractor

39、shall certify that the product offered meets the salient characteristics of this description and that the product conforms to the producers own drawings, specifications, standards and quality assurance practices. The government reserves the right to require proof of such conformance prior to the fir

40、st delivery and thereafter as may be otherwise provided for, under the provisions of the contract. Reliance on contractor QA systems shall not relieve the contractor of the responsibility of ensuring that all products or supplies submitted to the government for acceptance comply with all requirement

41、s of the contract. Responsibilitv for inspection. The supplier is responsible for assuring the product conforms to the requirements. Shirt lots will be inspected to determine conformance with the Commercial Item Description and the successful offerers technical proposal as negotiated. the use of “Sa

42、mpling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes“, ANSI/ASQL 21.4, published by the American Society for Quality Control. the Government at the time of award. The shirt will be examined for commercial type defects only. Acceptability of shirt lots will be determined by Sampling procedures w

43、ill be designated by Defects. The shirts shall be examined for the following defects: any hole, cut, tear, color not as specified; any spot or stain (outside); thread ends not removed; label missing, incorrect, or illegible; measurement of item not as specified; pocket or flap not uniform in size or

44、 shape; any measurements varying from pocket to pocket or flap to flap by more than 3/8 inch; pockets/flaps out of alignment at any point from pocket to pocket or flap to flap by more than 3/8 inch; collar points uneven in length more than 3/8 inch; collar points not properly forced out; fusible any

45、 evidence of bleed through, delimitation (such as bubbling), or color change. 7 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-A-A-55091 W 9999974 0127757 3b0 W A-A-550 9 1 Packasinu Examination. The fully packaged end items shall be examined for th

46、e defects listed below. The lot size shall be expressed in units of shipping containers. The sample unit shall be one shipping container fully packaged. The inspection level shall be S-2 and the acceptable quality level (AQL), expressed in terms of defects per hundred units, shall be 1.0. Examinatio

47、n Defect Marking Omitted, incorrect, illegible, of (exterior and interior) improper size, location, or method of application Materia 1 Content Palletization Any component missing, damaged, not as specified Number of items per container is more or less than required NSN shown on one or more items not

48、 as specified on shipping container Length , width, or height exceeds specified maximum requirements Pallet type not as specified Load bonded as specified Reuulatory Requirements. The offeror/contractor is encouraged to use recovered materials in accordance with Public Law 94-580 to the maximum exte

49、nt practicable. Preservation, Packina, and Markinq. The preservation, packing, and marking shall be as specified in the contract or order. Source of Government Documents. Copies of Military and Federal documents are available from: Standardization Documents Order Desk Bldg. 4D 700 Robbins Avenue Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094 8 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-