SANS 985-2008 Polyester-and-wool uniform fabrics《聚酯纤维 羊毛制服衣料》.pdf

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1、 Collection of SANS standards in electronic format (PDF) 1. Copyright This standard is available to staff members of companies that have subscribed to the complete collection of SANS standards in accordance with a formal copyright agreement. This document may reside on a CENTRAL FILE SERVER or INTRA

2、NET SYSTEM only. Unless specific permission has been granted, this document MAY NOT be sent or given to staff members from other companies or organizations. Doing so would constitute a VIOLATION of SABS copyright rules. 2. Indemnity The South African Bureau of Standards accepts no liability for any

3、damage whatsoever than may result from the use of this material or the information contain therein, irrespective of the cause and quantum thereof. ISBN 978-0-626-21213-1 SANS 985:2008Edition 3.3SOUTH AFRICAN NATIONAL STANDARD Polyester-and-wool uniform fabrics Published by Standards South Africa 1 d

4、r lategan road groenkloof private bag x191 pretoria 0001 tel: 012 428 7911 fax: 012 344 1568 international code + 27 12 www.stansa.co.za Standards South Africa SANS 985:2008 Edition 3.3 Table of changes Change No. Date Scope Amdt 1 2006 Amended to update referenced standards, to correct the unit of

5、measurement for the number of threads in table 1, and to change the designation of two listed items in the annex on notes to purchasers. Amdt 2 2007 Amended to update the test methods for quantitative fibre analysis and for colour fastness to washing. Amdt 3 2008 Amended to update the test methods f

6、or mothproofing. Foreword This South African standard was approved by National Committee StanSA SC 5110.01B, Textiles Woven fabrics, in accordance with procedures of Standards South Africa, in compliance with annex 3 of the WTO/TBT agreement. This document was published in March 2008. This document

7、supersedes SANS 985:2007 (edition 3.2). A vertical line in the margin shows where the text has been technically modified by amendment No. 3. Annex A forms an integral part of this standard. Annex B is for information only. SANS 985:2008 Edition 3.3 1 Contents Page Foreword 1 Scope . 3 2 Normative re

8、ferences . 3 3 Definitions 5 4 Requirements . 5 5 Inspection and methods of test 8 5.1 Inspection 8 5.2 Conditioning 8 5.3 Composition 8 5.4 Weave . 8 5.5 Width . 8 5.6 Mass per area 8 5.7 Number of threads per centimetre 8 5.8 Breaking strength 8 5.9 Dimensional changes 8 5.10 Non-fibrous material

9、content . 8 5.11 Resistance to pilling . 9 5.12 Colour fastness to light 9 5.13 Colour fastness to washing . 9 5.14 Colour fastness to dry cleaning 9 5.15 Colour fastness to perspiration . 9 5.16 Moth resistance 9 6 Packing, labelling and marking 9 Annex A (normative) Notes to purchasers 10 Annex B

10、(informative) Quality verification of polyester-and-wool uniform fabrics 10 Bibliography. 10 SANS 985:2008 Edition 3.3 2 This page is intentionally left blank SANS 985:2008 Edition 3.3 3 Polyester-and-wool uniform fabrics 1 Scope This standard covers requirements for seven types of dyed polyester-an

11、d-wool fabric suitable for lightweight uniforms. 2 Normative references The following standards contain provisions which, through reference in this text, constitute provisions of this standard. All standards are subject to revision and, since any reference to a standard is deemed to be a reference t

12、o the latest edition of that standard, parties to agreements based on this standard are encouraged to take steps to ensure the use of the most recent editions of the standards indicated below. Information on currently valid national and international standards can be obtained from Standards South Af

13、rica. SANS 70, Conditioning of textiles and standard temperate atmosphere for determining their physical and mechanical properties. SANS 79, Textiles Mass per unit area of conditioned fabrics. SANS 80, Mass (oven-dry plus conventional allowance) per unit area of textile fabrics, free from non-fibrou

14、s material. SANS 81, Width of a textile fabric sample. SANS 82, Width of a textile fabric in a piece or roll. SANS 84, Length of fabric in a piece or roll. SANS 105-B02/ISO 105-B02, Textiles Tests for colour fastness Part B02: Colour fastness to artificial light: Xenon arc fading lamp test. SANS 105

15、-C02/ISO 105-C02, Textiles Tests for colour fastness Part C02: Colour fastness to washing: Test 2. Amdt 2 SANS 105-C10/ISO 105-C10, Textiles Tests for colour fastness Part C10: Colour fastness to washing with soap or soap and soda. Amdt 2 SANS 105-D01/ISO 105-D01, Textiles Tests for colour fastness

16、Part D01: Colour fastness to dry cleaning. SANS 105-E04/ISO 105-E04, Textiles Tests for colour fastness Part E04: Colour fastness to perspiration. SANS 985:2008 Edition 3.3 4 SANS 960, Textiles Dimensional stability during washing and drying procedures. SANS 977, Textile tolerances. SANS 979, Textil

17、e products Permanent mothproofing. Amdt 3 SANS 1097, Dimensional changes in textile fabrics caused by immersion in cold water. SANS 1270, General requirements for woven textile piece-goods and household articles. SANS 1833, Textiles Binary fibre mixtures Quantitative chemical analysis. Amdt 2 SANS 1

18、833-1/ISO 1833-1, Textiles Quantitative chemical analysis Part 1: General priciples of testing. Amdt 2 SANS 1833-4/ISO 1833-4, Textiles Quantitative chemical analysis Part 4: Mixtures of certain protein and certain other fibres (method using hypochlorite). Amdt 2 SANS 5113, Non-fibrous material cont

19、ent of wool. SANS 5580 (SABS SM 580), Pesticides: Biological evaluation of mothproof textiles containing wool. Amdt 3 SANS 5582 (SABS SM 582), Pesticides: Biological evaluation of dry-cleaning-durability properties of mothproof textiles containing wool. Amdt 3 SANS 5683, Determination of shade depth

20、 class. SANS 6026, Dry-cleaning pretreatment of textile fabrics. SANS 6116, Resistance of textile fabrics to pilling and fuzzing (Random tumble method). SANS 7211-2/ISO 7211-2, Textiles Woven fabrics Construction Methods of analysis Part 2: Determination of number of threads per unit length. SANS 10

21、004, Terms and definitions for textiles and textile merchandise. SANS 10076-5, The assessment of defects in textile piece-goods and made-up articles Part 5: Defects in woven woollen and worsted piece-goods. SANS 10153, The labelling and marking of textiles and household textile articles. Amdt 1 SANS

22、 11108 (SABS SM 1108), Washing pretreatment of textile fabrics. SANS 13934-1/ISO 13934-1, Textiles Tensile properties of fabrics Part 1: Determination of maximum force and elongation at maximum force using the strip method. WTC E 10, Specification of “insect resistant”. Available from World Wide Web

23、 Amdt 3 WTC TM 27, Chemical assay of insect resist (IR) agent content. Available from World Wide Web Amdt 3 WTC TM 28, Fastness testing of insect resist (IR) agent. Available from World Wide Web Amdt 3 SANS 985:2008 Edition 3.3 5 3 Definitions For the purposes of this standard, the definitions given

24、 in SANS 10004 and the following apply. 3.1 acceptable acceptable to the authority administering this standard, or to the parties concluding the purchase contract, as relevant 3.2 LAQ limit for acceptable quality as defined in SANS 10076-5 3.3 lot not less than 10 and not more than 200 pieces of pol

25、yester-and-wool fabric of the same width, colour, type and finish(es), woven on the same type of loom and, if applicable, with the same selvedge stripes, made by one manufacturer, and submitted at any one time for inspection and testing 4 Requirements 4.1 General The fabric shall be a dyed fabric of

26、 acceptably uniform make, colour and finish, shall have been made from clean yarns, and shall have a clear-cut finish. The selvedges shall be straight and evenly woven. The introduction of coloured selvedge stripes, a moth-resistant finish and whether the fabric shall be washable shall be as specifi

27、ed by the purchaser (see A.1). 4.2 Yarns Both the warp and the weft of type 33 shall be of cabled yarns that have “S” direction of twist and consist of a two-ply grandrelle yarn (with “S” direction of twist) plied with a single yarn1). Both the warp and the weft of type 31 shall be three-ply worsted

28、 yarns and the remaining types shall be of two-ply worsted yarns. 4.3 Weave The weave of types 31, 33, 35 and 39, determined in accordance with 5.4, shall be plain, and that of types 50 and 52 shall be 2/2 twill with a “Z” direction of twill. 1) For the information of manufacturers the nominal numbe

29、r of turns per metre is 300 for the grandrelle yarn and 500 for the cable yarn. SANS 985:2008 Edition 3.3 6 The weave of type 72 shall be a 4 1 whipcord (see figure 1). 2 2 X XX XXXX X XXX XX XX X X X XX X X XX XX X X X X X X XX X X X XX XX XX X XFace side: X = Warp up Figure 1 Weave of type 72 4.4

30、Colour and colour match The colour of the fabric shall be of an acceptable match, in terms of SANS 10076-5, to the colour required (see A.1). 4.5 Width Unless otherwise required (see A.1), the width of the fabric between the selvedges or coloured selvedge stripes, as relevant, determined in accordan

31、ce with 5.5, shall be at least 148 cm, subject to the relevant tolerance given in SANS 977. 4.6 Piece length Each piece shall comply with the requirements of SANS 1270 applicable to worsted and woollen piece goods and, unless otherwise specified by the purchaser (see A.1), the length of each piece s

32、hall be at least 45 m, subject to the relevant tolerance given in SANS 977. 4.7 Fabric requirements The fabric shall be of one of the types given in table 1, as required (see A.1), and, subject to the relevant tolerance given in SANS 977, shall comply with the relevant requirements given in the tabl

33、e. 4.8 Moth resistance When tested in accordance with 5.16, the efficacy of the mothproofing treatment and the durability of the mothproofing treatment after dry cleaning and light exposure shall comply with the requirements for South Africa given in WTC specification E 10. Amdt 3 4.9 Defects The as

34、sessment and stringing of defects, and the deductions to be made for strung and unstrung defects, shall be in accordance with SANS 10076-5, and based on the following LAQs: a) for pieces: 10 b) for a lot: 8 SANS 985:2008 Edition 3.3 7 Table 1 Fabric requirements 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 Requirement TypeaPr

35、operty 31 33 35 39 50 52 72 Test method subclause Composition, % 5.3 Polyester .New wool 55 5 45 5 40 5 60 5 55 5 45 5 Mass per area (free from non-fibrous material), g/m2, min. 240 260 190 195 270 275 275 5.6 Number of threads per cm, min. 5.7 Warp .Weft .17 16 22 17 26 24 26 26 43 29 Breaking stre

36、ngth, N, min. 5.8 Warp .Weft .820 720 920 820 650560760 530 850 800 780 750 1 250 880 Dimensional changes, %, max. 5.9 Cold water immersion b Warp and weft direction . 2 5.9.1 Laundering c Warp and weft direction . 3 5.9.2 Non-fibrous material content, %, max. . 3,5 5.10 Resistance to pilling d, rat

37、ing, min. 3 4 (slight to moderate) 5.11 Colour fastness to: Light, rating, min. 5.12 Medium-to-deep shade depth class eDeep shade depth class e5 6 Washing f, rating, min. 5.13 Change in colour Staining 4 4 Dry cleaning, rating, min. . 5.14 Change in colour Staining of solvent 4 5 4 5 Perspiration, r

38、ating, min. 5.15 Change in colour Staining 4 5 4 5 aDesignation by the type reference is restricted to fabrics that comply with the requirements given in this table. bOnly applicable to dry-cleanable fabric. cOnly applicable to washable fabric. d Tested after washing in accordance with SANS 11108, p

39、rocedure B, or dry cleaning in accordance with SANS 6026, as relevant. eUse SANS 5683 to determine the shade depth class. fOnly applicable to washable fabric. Amdt 1SANS 985:2008 Edition 3.3 8 5 Inspection and methods of test 5.1 Inspection After checking for compliance with the relevant requirement

40、s of clause 6, visually examine and measure each piece in the sample for compliance with the requirements given in 4.1 to 4.7 (inclusive) and in 4.9, using SANS 82 and SANS 84 to measure the width and length respectively. 5.2 Conditioning Condition each test sample in accordance with SANS 70 and, us

41、ing SANS 81, measure the width of the test sample before cutting from it the test specimens required for the tests given in 5.3 to 5.16 (inclusive). 5.3 Composition Carry out a microscopical and chemical examination of fibres taken from the warp and weft of each sample, and then use SANS 1833-1 and

42、SANS 1833-4 to determine whether the sample complies with the requirements of table 1. Amdt 2 5.4 Weave Determine by visual examination and physical analysis. Check for compliance with 4.3. 5.5 Width Use SANS 81. Check for compliance with 4.5. 5.6 Mass per area Use SANS 79, but in cases of dispute o

43、r when so agreed upon, use SANS 80. Check for compliance with table 1. Amdt 1 5.7 Number of threads per centimetre Use SANS 7211-2. Check for compliance with table 1. 5.8 Breaking strength Use SANS 13934-1. Check for compliance with table 1. 5.9 Dimensional changes 5.9.1 Induced by cold water immers

44、ion Use SANS 1097. Check for compliance with table 1. 5.9.2 On laundering Use SANS 960, procedure C. Check for compliance with table 1. 5.10 Non-fibrous material content Use SANS 5113. Check for compliance with table 1. SANS 985:2008 Edition 3.3 9 5.11 Resistance to pilling Use SANS 6116 on specimen

45、s a) after dry cleaning in accordance with SANS 6026, procedure B; and b) in the case of a washable fabric, after washing in accordance with SANS 11108, procedure B. Check for compliance with table 1. 5.12 Colour fastness to light Use SANS 105-B02. Check for compliance with table 1. 5.13 Colour fast

46、ness to washing Use test number B(2) in SANS 105-C10:2007. Check for compliance with table 1. Amdt 2 5.14 Colour fastness to dry cleaning Use SANS 105-D01. Check for compliance with table 1. 5.15 Colour fastness to perspiration Use SANS 105-E04. Check for compliance with table 1. 5.16 Moth resistanc

47、e Use WTC TM 27 after exposure to dry cleaning and light in accordance with WTC TM 28. Check for compliance with 4.8. Amdt 3 6 Packing, labelling and marking 6.1 Packing 6.1.1 Unless otherwise required (see A.1), each piece shall be rolled full-width (i.e. unfolded) and face inward on a tube. 6.1.2

48、Only pieces of the same type, colour, finish and width, woven on the same type of loom and, if applicable, with the same selvedge stripes, shall be packed together in a bulk container. 6.2 Labelling and marking Pieces and bulk containers shall be labelled and marked in accordance with SANS 10153. Am

49、dt 1 6.3 Additional marking When so required (see A.1), pieces or bulk containers (or both) shall bear information additional to that specified in 6.2. SANS 985:2008 Edition 3.3 10 Annex A (normative) Notes to purchasers A.1 The following requirements shall be specified in tender invitations and in each order or contract: a) when relevant, that coloured selvedge stripes are to be introduced (see 4.1); b) when relevant, that the material is to have a moth-resistant finish (see 4.1); c) when rel