NAVY MIL-O-21086 B-1970 OVERCOAT WOMEN-S WOOL SERGE GREEN《绿色斜纹哔叽布料羊毛女士外套大衣》.pdf

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1、MILITARY SPECIFICATION OVERCOAT, WMAt?S: WOOL, SERGE, GREEN 1. SCOPE 1.1 Scope. This specification covers requirements for a green wool serge overcoat, *1,2 Classification. The overcoats shall be one type in the followng sizes as specified (see 6,2): Schedule of sizes - Short Regular Long 8 8 8 10 1

2、2 14 16 18 20 10 12 14 16 18 20 10 12 14 16 18 20 2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS “2.1 The following documents of the issue in effect on date of invitation for bids or request for proposal, form a part of the specification to the extent specified herein; SPECIFICATIONS R-N-91 V-B-871 V-Ta276 V-T-280 V-T-301

3、 UU-P-268 DDD-L-20 DDD-T-86 - Napthalene, Technical. - Button, Sewing Hole, And Button, Staple, (Plastic) - Thread, Cotton. - Thread, Cotton Gimp, Buttonhole. - Thread, Silk. - Paper, Kraft, Untreated, Wrapping. - Label; For Clothing, Equipage, And Tentage (General Use) , - Tape, Textile; Cotton, Ge

4、neral Purpose (Unbleached, Bleached Or Dyed) , Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-O-ZLObB 84 797990b 0382448 7 MIL-0-210868 (MC) MILITARY MIL-C-297 MIL-C-326 - Cloth, Silesia, Cottod. MIL-C-368 MIL-C-823 MXL-P-15064 MIL-B-17757 MiL-B

5、-20289 - Buttons, Insignia, Plastic. - Cloth, Interlining, Cotton Warp, And Spun - Cloth, Satin, Rayon nd Cloth, Twill, Rayon. - Cloth, Serge, Wool, Wool and Nylon. - Pads, Shoulder And Sleeve Head. - Bores, Fiber, Corrugated (Modular Sizes) Hair-Wool Filling. STANDURDS FEDERAL FED-STD-191 - Textile

6、 Test Methods. FED-STD-751 - Stitch, Seam, And Stitching. MILITARY MIL-STD-105 MIL-STD-129 - Sampling Procedures And Tablee For Inspection - Marking For Shipmeat And Storegc. By Attributes. (Copies of specifications and standards required by suppliere in eoniaection with specific procurement functio

7、ns rhould be obtained from the procuring activity or as directed by the contracting officer.) 2.2 Other publications. The following document forme a part of this specification to the extent Specified herein. on date of invitation for bids or request for proposal shall apply. Unless otherwise indicat

8、ed, the issue in effect IJNIFRM CLASSIFICATION COMMITTEE Uniform Freight Classification Rules (Application for copies should be addressed to the Uniform Classification Conmittee, 202 Chicago Enion Station, Chicago, Illinois 60606.) 3. REQUIREMENTS 3.1 Samples. Samples, when furnished, are solely for

9、 guidance and information to the iupplier (see 6.3). Variation from this spec$fication may appear .in the sample, in which case the specification shall govern. *3.2 First article-approval. UnIess otherwise specified (see 6.21, before pro- duction is commenced, a finished overcoat shall be submitted

10、or made ready, for the contracting officer or his authorized representative for inspection. approval of the first article authorizes the commencement of production, but does not relieve the supplier of responsibility for compliance with all provisions of this specification, at the same facilities to

11、 be used for the manufacture of the production items. The The first article shall be manufactured by the supplier 3.3 Uaterisls. 3.3.1 Basic material. The basic material shall be cloth, wool, serge, green shade 2234 (see 6.3), 15-ounce, conforming to type I, class 5 of MIL-C-823. Provided by IHSNot

12、for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-0-210bB 9 7997906 0382q99 9 MIL-0-21086B (MC) - - - 3.3.2 Lining. Material for lining the overcoat shall be cloth, rayon, twill, 3.3.3 Front interlining. The material for interlining the fronts and collar shall be clo

13、th, cotton warp and spun hair-wool filling, plain weave, conforming to type I of MIL-C-297, except that the cotton warp, hair-wo filling cloth shall be dyed black. The dying shall be accomplished with a select rect dye and the dyed cloth shall be aftertreated, preferably with copper sulp 1 te, to me

14、et the requirements specified herein. The dyed cloth shall show good fastness to wet (dry) cleaning, perspiration and steam pressing. green shade 2208 (see 6.3), 3.7-ounce, conforming to class 1 of MIL-C-368. *3.3.4 Ribbon. Ribbon for the raw edge of bottom turnup of overcoat shall be rayon, 112 inc

15、h wide, The color shall be a shade of green to harmonize with the color of basic material and shall show good colorfastness to wet (dry) cleaning when tested as specified in Section 4, Table III. *3.3,5 Han er braid. Braid for overcoat hanger shall be cotton or rayon tubular flat bram,l6 inch wide h

16、aving a breaking strength of not less than 75 pounds in the warp direction when tested as specified in Section 4, Table III. The color of the braid shall closely match green shade T-1, Cable No, 66023, and shall show good fastness to wet (dry) cleaning and crocking when tested as speci- fied in Sect

17、ion 4, Table III. II 3.3.6 Tape, Tape for the armholes, pocket welt, and front edges shall be 1/4 inch wide; tape shall be cotton, preshrunk, conforming to type III, classes 1 or 2 of DDD-T-86, except the requirements for nonfibrous material shall not apply. The tape shaL1 be bleached white or unble

18、ached. *3.3.7 Silecia. Material for making stay pieces for the pocket opening, and for making hanging pocket, shall be cloth, cotton, silesia, 4.5-ounce, conforming to type I of MIL-C-326.Cloth shall be dyed black, except the requirements for non- fibrous material and seam efficiency shall not apply

19、. 3.3.8 Thread. 3.3.8.1 Silk thread. Silk thread shall conform to V-T-301. Thread or machine sewing shall conform to type I, size A, 3-ply for all outside seaming and stitching; size B, 3-ply and size F, 3-ply, top and lower thread, respectively, for button- holes; and size O, 3-ply for machine fell

20、ing. Thread for hand sewing shall conform to type III, class 3, size C, 2-ply. The requirements for extractable material shall not apply. *3.3.8.2 Cotton thread. Cotton thread shall conform to V-T-276, type IC2, mercerized finish, ticket No. A, 3-ply for all inside seaming and stitching, and type IB

21、3, glazed finish, ticket No. 24, 4-ply for sewing on buttons. *3.3.8.3 Thread for basting and tacking. Thread for basting and for tacking the shoulder pads to the interlining and armhole seam allowance and the lining armhole seam allowance to the overcoat seam allowance shall be a good commercial gr

22、ade or, a monofilament synthetic thread may be used for those basting operations where the thread is required to be removed, provided the garment is subsequently given a treatment by a dry cleaning agent in which the synthetic thread is soluble. When this thread is used, any residue remaining on the

23、 garment after the dry cleaning process shall be brushed off or removed. Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-flIL-0-2LOBbB 84 m 0b 0382q50 5 m MIL-0-21086B(MC) *3,3.8.4 Color and colorfastness. The cotton and silk thread,except basting th

24、read which may be white,shall be dyed green shade T-1, Cable No. 66023. Dyed threads shall show good colorfastness to light and wet (dry) cleaning when tested as specified in the applicable thread specification, 3.3.9 *. Buttonhole gimp shall be cotton, No. 8 soft or glazed finish, con- forming to t

25、ype I or type II of V-T-280, showing good colorfastness to wet (dry) cleaning, The color shall approximate shade green T-1, Cable No. 66023. 3.3.10 Buttons, *3.3,10,1 Insignia buttons. Insignia buttons shall be plastic, black, 45-line, conforming to type I of MIL-B-20289. *3.3.10.2 Sewing hole butto

26、ns. Sewing hole buttons shall. be melamine formaldehyde composition, glossy finish, style 20, 30-line for shoulder straps, conforming tu type II, class D,of V-B-871. Color of buttons shall be green shade, Cable No. *3.3,11 Shoulder pads, The shoulder pads shall conform to the requitements of *3.3.12

27、 Labels. label as follows, shall show fastness to dry cleaning. 62017 type III, class 3: of MIL-P-15064. Each overcoat shall have an identification label and a size The overcoat is intended to be dry cleaned and the label *3.3.12.1 Identification label, The identification label shall conform to type

28、 I, class 1, of DDD-L-20, except the stock number may be omitted. The conten; and format shall be as follows: Nomenclature (item description) Contract Number Name of contractor Wool Products Act information *3.3.12.2 Size label, The size label shall conform to type I, class 2 of DDD-L-20. R for Regu

29、lar, or L for Long, as applicable, in the identification label, below the contract number. “3.4 Design. Overcoat shall be Marine Corps design shown on Figures 1 through 4; a straight cut, single breasted, fullp-lined overcoat with four worked buttonholes on right front and four insignia buttons on t

30、he left front; having two lower slash pockets with outside welt, ornamental sleeve cuffs; convertible collar; notched collar and lapel; shoulder straps to button; and a pleat at lower part of center back. The numerical designation for size shall be followed by S for Short, The stock number may be in

31、corporated “3.5 Patterns. The standard patterns furnished by the Government shall not be altered in any manner and shall be used only as a guide for cutting working patterns. and 518-inch seam allowance for center back seams, 3116-inch to 318-inch seam allowance as indicated in operation or on patte

32、rns otherwise specified in Table I. placement and cutting, and are notched or marked for proper assembly of component parts. The standard patterns provide 3/4-inch seam allowance for side seams for all other seams except as These patterns show size, are marked for Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo rep

33、roduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-0-21086B (MC) 3.6.1.2.1 Ends of seams and stitching. Ends of seams and stitching6 (stitch type 301), except the ende of a continuous li

34、ne of stitching, when not caught in another seam or stitching, shall be backtacked not less than 1/4 inch. The ends of a continuous line of stitching shall be overlapped not less than 1/2 inch. breaks (all stitch types) shall be secured by stitching back of the break not lees than 1/2 inch. r3.6.1.3

35、 Shade marking. The component parts of overcoat, except parts cut from ends, shall be marked to insure a uniform shade and size throughout the garment. Any method of shade marking may be used except: Thread (a) (b) (c) Matal fastening devices on the rayon lining and corrosive metal fastening devices

36、 on other materikls. Sew-on shade tickets on lining. Adhesive-type tickets which show discoloration or leave traces of paper or adhesive mass to the materiel upon removal of the tickets. 6 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL - O - 2 1

37、 086B ( MC ) 8, . ., Cutting. a. Cut overcoat in strict accordance TABLE I b;NUFACTURj OPERATION I with patterns furnished by the Governmen b. Cut all material in the direction in- * dicated by the hrp directional lines on the patterns. Y 2. - c. Cut all wool serge parta from one piece of material,

38、except the underply Df shoulder straps, undel.collar, under- collar stand and pocket facing which mag be cut from ends. AU wool serge parts cut from ends shall harmonize with over- coat. Undercollar and undercollar stand cut from ends shall match in color shade d. Cut front and back lining from one

39、piece of rayon lining material. Paira oi sleeve linings may be cut from ends. When pairs of sleeve linings are cut frc ends, the shade of parta and pairs of sleeve linings shall match each other. e. Cut the interlining cloth for under- collar and collar stand in accordance with pattern furnished. f.

40、 Cut front interlining in strict accordance with pattern furnished. g. Cut silesia for hai;ping pockets and pocket stay in accordance with pattern furnished . h. The use of drill holes is prohibited Replacement of damaged parts. a. Replace at time of cutting any parts of the overcoat containing hole

41、s or serious weakening defects such as smash multiple floats, loose-or weakening sluba, etc., expected to develop into holes, shade bars and dye streaks or un sightly slubs, etc, affecting appearan - ?- I REQU itch YQe - - diNTS am or itch YQe ICI itches Per Inch INRE edle - - 7 Provided by IHSNot f

42、or ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-_I DE“ NO. - 2. 3. 4, 5, - lABLE I EIANUFACTURI - OPERATION Replacement of damaged parts. (contd) b. Replace any parts damaged during thi manufacturing procesa by needle chews which may develop into a hole, scissor or knif

43、e cuts, tears, holes, mends or burns in the material affecting appearance. Shade marking, a, Mark or ticket all wool serge components and lining parts (see 3.6.1 3) cut froa one piece of basic materia to insure uniform shade and size throughout the overcoat. Undercollar and undercollar stand parts a

44、nd lining sleeve parts, cut from ends, shall be marked or ticketed for size and shade; other parts cut from ends shall marked for size. b. The use of tickets with metal fastening devices or sew-on tickets ar prohibited ontrayon lining. Make interlining or fronts. a. Fold the upper fronts with cut ed

45、ge of shoulder dart even at shoulder and stitch tha entire length of dart 318 - inch from the cut edges at upper end and tapering to a point at the lower end 114- to 1f2 inch below the cut end b. Spread open the dart seam allowance and press flat with a heated pressing iron or pressing machine. Lowe

46、r folded edge o dart shall be pressed smooth and flat with cut edges of dart toward the back. Hake shoulder straps. Finished appearance, Shoulder straps shall be uniformly stitched and shall finish smooth and flat, without twists, gathers, puckers, pleats or raw edges, Buttonholes shall be clean cut

47、, well ms positioned as specified herein, well worked over gimp to fit a 30-line buttc and the stitching shall be securely caught in the basic material. The gimE and thread ends shall be pulled througl REQi titcl Type - - 301 , - c_ titches Per Inch k 10-14 THR ieedli - - A A D obbin Loope Of Provid

48、ed by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-0-2LObB L( 7777906 0382LI55 LI = TABLE I MANUFACTURING REQE ?N XQ. OPERATION . I 5- I i 6. - Make shoulder straps. (contd) to the underside of buttonhole and securely caught in the bartack and the purling

49、 of the buttod,ole shall be on outside of shoulder straps. The button- hole shall be cut-firt type. a, Shoulder straps shall be made of twt plies of basic material. b, Seam the two plies together 3/16 inch from the edges at the front, back and collar end. The collar end of stral may be trimned as required prior to turning. c, Turn thestraps, working the seam line out to the edges. stra