BS 6793-1987 Specification for mens uniform shirts《男衬衫规范》.pdf

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1、BRITISH STANDARD BS6793:1987 Incorporating Amendment No.1 Specification for Mens uniform shirts UDC 687.241-055.1:687.152BS6793:1987 This British Standard, having been prepared under the directionof the Textiles and Clothing Standards Committee, was published under the authorityof the Board of BSI a

2、ndcomes into effect on 30September1987 BSI 11-1999 The following BSI references relate to the work on this standard: Committee reference TCM/42 Draft for comment85/44594DC ISBN 0 580 15572 2 Committees responsible for this British Standard The preparation of this British Standard was entrusted by th

3、e Textiles and Clothing Standards Committee (TCM/-) to Technical Committee TCM/42, upon which the following bodies were represented: British Clothing Industry Association British Railways Board British Security Industry Association British Textile Employers Association Chief and Assistant Chief Fire

4、 Officers Association Electricity Supply Industry in England and Wales Fire Brigades Union Home Office International Wool Secretariat Man-made Fibres Producers Committee Ministry of Defence National Association of Fire Officers National Union of Tailors and Garments Workers Society of Industrial Art

5、ists and Designers Textile and Clothing Contractors Association Amendments issued since publication Amd. No. Date of issue Comments 5888 July 1988 Indicated by a sideline in the marginBS6793:1987 BSI 11-1999 i Contents Page Committees responsible Inside front cover Foreword ii 1 Scope 1 2 Definition

6、s 1 3 Materials 1 4 Manufacture 1 5 Sizing 3 6 Marking 3 Appendix A Advice to purchasers on options available in theconstructionofmens uniform shirts 6 Appendix B Method for the determination of peel bondstrengthoffusedinterlinings 6 Appendix C Supplementary information for MOD contracts 6 Figure 1

7、Construction of epaulette 5 Table 1 Requirements for fused interlining laminates 1 Table 2 Garment dimensions 4 Table 3 Supplementary information for MOD contracts 7 Publications referred to Inside back coverBS6793:1987 ii BSI 11-1999 Foreword This British Standard has been prepared under the direct

8、ion of the Textiles and Clothing Standards Committee. The detailed specification for garment construction and make-up has been provided by a Product Group of the Local Authorities Management Services and Computer Committee. The standard gives details of options that are available with regard to pock

9、ets and certain other parts of the shirt. A list of these options with references to the relevant clauses in the standard is given in Appendix A. Appendix B gives a method for peel bond strength of interlinings. Supplementary information for Ministry of Defence (MOD) contracts is given in Appendix C

10、. A British Standard does not purport to include all the necessary provisions of a contract. Users of British Standards are responsible for their correct application. Compliance with a British Standard does not of itself confer immunity from legal obligations. Attention is drawn to the need, if appr

11、opriate, for the fibre content to be given in accordance with Statutory Instrument 1986 No. 26 Trade Descriptions, The Textile Products (Indication of Fibre Content) Regulations 1986. Summary of pages This document comprises a front cover, an inside front cover, pagesi andii, pages1 to8, an inside b

12、ack cover and a back cover. This standard has been updated (see copyright date) and may have had amendments incorporated. This will be indicated in the amendment table on the inside front cover.BS6793:1987 BSI 11-1999 1 1 Scope This British Standard specifies materials, making-up and marking require

13、ments for mens uniform shirts and gives sizing tables for use in both the public and private sectors. NOTEThe titles of the publications referred to in this standard are listed on the inside back cover. 2 Definitions For the purposes of this British Standard the definitions given in BS1903 and BS497

14、3-2 apply, together with the following. 2.1 inturn the depth of fabric folded and turned inside the garment and secured 2.2 seam width a predetermined amount of fabric between the edge of component parts of the garment and the seam line 3 Materials 3.1 Main fabric. No main body fabric is specified (

15、see Appendix A). 3.2 Interlining. Where required, fusible interlining in accordance with BS4973-2 and BS4973-3 shall be used. NOTEFusing should be carried out in accordance with the recommendations of the interlining manufacturer. Fusing shall be continuous so that the laminate is free from blisters

16、 and there shall not be any strike-through of the adhesive to the face of the laminate nor strike-back through the interlining. The colour of the fused parts shall not differ from that of the non-fused parts of the garment. The fused laminate shall be in accordance with Table 1. 3.3 Collar stiffener

17、. No particular material is specified. NOTEPolyamide has been found suitable for this purpose. 3.4 Buttons. Buttons shall be18ligne,2hole, and of polyester in a colour to match the main fabric. 3.5 Sewing threads. Sewing threads shall match the colour of the main fabric, shall be in accordance with

18、BS6157 and shall be chosen from one of the following: a) core spun polyester and cotton, ticketno.120,100 or75 (see BS4134) depending on the mass per unit area of the fabric; b) staple spun polyester, ticket no.120 (seeBS4134). 4 Manufacture 4.1 General The manufacturing details shall be as specifie

19、d in4.2 to4.9. All items shall be cut coat style with attached collars. Shoulder straps, collars and cuffs shall be top fused. Seams and stitchings shall be as specified in4.10. 4.2 Back 4.2.1 The back shall be formed with a yoke,6cm deep at centre back, of two thicknesses of main fabric. NOTEEach y

20、oke may be cut from one piece or seamed at the centre using seam type1.01.01 of BS3870-2. The yoke shall be attached to the back using seam types1.01.01 or2.02.01 of BS3870-2. 4.2.2 If waist suppression is required, the waist dimensions given in Table 2 shall be reduced by6cm. There shall be an uncu

21、t waist suppression dart36cm long, formed in each side of the back, positioned evenly above and below the waist line, with the centre of the dart11cm from the side seam for size39, and proportionately for other sizes. Thedart shall be3cm wide(1.5cm on the double) at its widest point. 4.3 Front 4.3.1

22、 A4cm wide inturn shall be formed on each front edge. The inner edge of the inturn, cut on the selvedge or finished using seam type6.02.01 of BS3870-2, shall be left loose. Table 1 Requirements for fused interlining laminates Property Requirement Method of test Peel bond strength, min.: as received,

23、 after conditioning, N per2.5cm width after laundering aand reconditioning, N per2.5cm width 12.0 7.5 Appendix B Percentage dimensional change after laundering a , max. Delamination after laundering a 1.5 nil BS5807 visual observation a After5washes in accordance with procedure3A of BS4923 and line

24、drying.BS6793:1987 2 BSI 11-1999 4.3.2 Six buttonholes,1.2cm long, shall be worked vertically in the left front,2cm from the front edge, and spaced9cm apart with the centre of the top hole positioned7.5cm from the collar seam. 4.3.3 Six buttons shall be sewn on the right front,2cm from the front edg

25、e and in correct register with the centre of the buttonholes in the left front. A spare button shall be sewn to the right front inturn, positioned approximately10cm from the bottom edge. 4.3.4 The yoke shall be attached to the front using seam types1.01.01 or2.02.01 of BS3870-2. 4.4 Patch pockets an

26、d flaps 4.4.1 If provided, patch pockets shall be made from main fabric, shall be13cm wide by13.5cm deep and shall be fitted with the top edge positioned13cm below the collar seam at the front edge and6.5cm from the front edge on sizes38 to40, and proportionately for other girth groups. The top edge

27、 shall be finished using seam type6.03.01 of BS3870-2 with a2cm deep inturn. The patch shall be attached using seam type5.31.01 of BS3870-2 with the top corners securely tacked. 4.4.2 Flaps 4.4.2.1 General. If provided, flaps shall be made from two-ply main fabric and shall be6cm deep at the point a

28、nd4cm deep at the sides. A buttonhole,1.2cm long shall be worked vertically in the flap, with the centre of the hole2cm from the point. The flap shall be attached using seam type5.31.05 of BS3870-2 with the top edge positioned2cm above the top edge of the patch. A button shall be sewn to the patch i

29、n correct register with the buttonhole. Flaps shall comply with either4.4.2.2 or4.4.2.3. 4.4.2.2 The flap shall be without interlining. 4.4.2.3 The flap shall have an interlining fused to the top ply. 4.5 Shoulder straps 4.5.1 If provided, shoulder straps shall be made from two-ply main fabric, and

30、shall have a pointed free end. The top ply shall have a fusible interlining. A buttonhole,1.2cm long shall be worked centrally in the strap with the centre2cm from the point. The strap shall be sewn in the sleevehead seam with the front edge aligned with the front yoke seam. A button shall be sewn t

31、o the shoulder in correct register with the buttonhole in the strap. 4.5.2 The dimensions of each strap shall be14cm long by5cm wide at the sleevehead tapering to4.5cm wide at the buttonhole. 4.6 Epaulettes 4.6.1 Epaulettes, if provided, shall comply with the dimensions given in Figure 1. 4.6.2 For

32、fittings for detachable epaulettes, two loops6mm wide, of folded main fabric, shall be provided on each shoulder, the first from the sleeve measuring6.0cm between inner tacks and the second10cm from the sleeve measuring4.5cm between inner tacks. 4.7 Hem The bottom of the shirt shall be finished usin

33、g seam type6.03.01 of BS3870-2 with a0.6cm upturn. 4.8 Collar 4.8.1 There shall be a one-piece, stand and fall collar. 4.8.2 The top collar shall have a two-ply fusible interlining. The first ply shall be cut to the full dimensions of the collar. The second ply shall be cut to clear the fall edge se

34、wing lines and shall have a0.3cm wide slot extending along the break line to within2cm of each end of the collar. The collar shall be stiffened to comply with either4.8.2.1 or4.8.2.2. 4.8.2.1 A stiffener shall be sewn to each front edge of the fall of the second ply. 4.8.2.2 A stiffener shall be aff

35、ixed to the underside of the interlining positioned on the fall bisecting the collar point and retained by the top stitching. 4.8.3 The bottom edge of the undercollar shall be seamed to the neck. The bottom edge of the top collar shall be turned in and retained by a row of stitching0.6mm from the ed

36、ge, and shall be edge stitched to the neck covering the undercollar seam. 4.8.4 The dimensions of the collar shall be: fall at back4cm; fall at points7cm; stand at back3.5cm. 4.8.5 A buttonhole,1.2cm long, shall be worked horizontally and centrally in the left side of the collar stand, with the cent

37、re of the hole2cm from the end of the stand. A button shall be sewn centrally on the right side of the collar stand,2cm from the end. 4.9 Sleeves 4.9.1 Long sleeves 4.9.1.1 A2.5cm wide guard shall be fitted to the vent; the length shall be16cm from the top of the guard to the top of the cuff. 4.9.1.

38、2 Two2cm pleats(1cm on the double) shall be formed in the bottom of the topside of the sleeve, facing towards the vent, positioned5cm and7cm respectively from the edge of the vent.BS6793:1987 BSI 11-1999 3 4.9.1.3 The cuff, of two-ply main fabric, shall be6cm deep. The top ply of the cuff shall have

39、 a fusible interlining. The cuffs shall be attached by means of seam type3.05.01 of BS3870-2. Alternatively the bottom ply of the cuff shall be attached to the sleeve by a0.6cm seam; the top edge of the top ply shall then be turned in and edge stitched to the sleeve covering the seam. 4.9.1.4 A butt

40、onhole,1.2cm long, shall be worked in each end of the cuff and positioned horizontally and centrally such that the centre of each hole is2cm from the end of the cuff. A button, positioned at the end of the buttonhole, shall be sewn to the outside of the underlap end of the cuff. 4.9.2 Short sleeves.

41、 The bottom of the sleeves shall be finished using seam type6.03.01 of BS3870-2 with a3cm deep upturn. 4.10 Seams and stitchings 4.10.1 Collar, shoulder straps, pocket flaps and cuffs shall be edge stitched or stitched0.6cm from the edge. The ends of the collar stand shall be edge stitched. The foll

42、owing types of seam and stitch, as specified in BS3870, shall be used: a) side, sleeve and armhole seams shall be seam type1.01.01 with the edges overedge stitched together; b) stitching on side, sleeve, armhole, and yoke seams shall be either type301 or401 and all other stitching, with the exceptio

43、n of raw edges, shall be stitch type301; c) raw edges shall be finished using stitch type502,503,504 or505; d) there shall be not less than5or more than7stitches per centimetre except for buttonholes which shall have not less than11stitches per centimetre. 4.10.2 Buttons shall be sewn on using at le

44、ast16stitches through each hole. NOTESewing threads may be treated with stain-free lubricant. 4.11 Garment presentation All seams shall be free from pucker. NOTEShirts should be free from loose threads and ends of thread, and should be well pressed and despatched by the manufacturer in a clean condi

45、tion. 5 Sizing 5.1 Size designations 5.1.1 Stock size garments shall comply with the requirements of Table 2. 5.1.2 Special measure garments shall be made to the wearers measurements as supplied to the contractor; the table shall then be used as a guide for measurements not supplied to the contracto

46、r. The allowance over the chest measure of the wearer shall be16cm. 5.2 Measurement methods All measurements shall be taken in the manner specified in BS5511. 6 Marking Labels complying with BS5742 shall be attached to each shirt, positioned centrally on the inside yoke. NOTEA composite label may be

47、 used. The labels shall give the following information: a) the name, trade mark or other means of identification of the manufacturer; b) the number and date of this British Standard i.e.BS6793:1987 1) ; c) an indication of the neck size of the person the garment is designed to fit; d) instructions f

48、or care and cleaning using an appropriate care labelling symbol in accordance with BS2747. 1) Marking BS6793:1987 on or in relation to a product represents a manufacturers declaration of conformity, i.e.a claim by or on behalf of the manufacturer that the product meets the requirements of the standa

49、rd. The accuracy of the claim is therefore solely the responsibility of the person making the claim. Such a declaration is not to be confused with third party certification of conformity, which may also be desirable.BS 6793:1987 4 BSI 11-1999 Table 2 Garment dimensions Size designation (neck size) Girth when fastened Length from collar seam at centre Length from top edge of sleeve to bottom Length of collar from centre of buttonhole to centre of button Length of cuff from end to end, long sleeves Girth at bottom of short sleeves Girth of shoulder across bott