DLA A-A-55085-1993 TROUSERS MEN-S POLYESTER COTTON《男式聚酯 棉裤》.pdf

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1、A-A-55085 9999974 0343586 537 !d I COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTION *1 t A-A-55 O 8 5 06 April 1993 TROUSERS, MENS, POLYESTER/COTTON The General Services Administration has authorized the use of this Commercial Item Description (CID) as a replacement for MIL-T-41834. Abstract. This Commercial Item Descri

2、ption covers the requirements for mens trousers made of polyester/cotton blended twill fabrics. The trousers are intended for wear by the male military personnel of the Navy as part of the semi-dress uniform. Classification. The trousers shall be of one type in the following classes, sizes, and leng

3、ths: b Class 3. Trousers, Polyester/Cotton, Blue 3362 Sizes. 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38, 40, 42 Lenuths. Short, Regular, Long, and X-Long Class 4. Trousers, Polyester/Cotton, Khaki 3729 Sizes. 27, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, 35, 36, 37, 38, 39, 40, 42 Lenuths. Short, Regular, Long, and X-Long Beneficial

4、 comments (recommendations, additions, deletions) and any pertinent data which may be of use in improving this document should be addressed to: Defense Personnel Support Center, Clothing and Textiles Directorate, Attn: DPSC-FSSD, 2800 South 20th Street, Philadelphia, PA 19101-8419, by using the Stan

5、dardization Document Improvement Proposal (DD Form 1426) appearing at the end of this document or by letter. 3 AMSC N/A DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. O FSC 8405 Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited. Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license fr

6、om IHS-,-,-A-A-55085 m 9999974 0343587 473 m A-A-55 085 Salient Characteristics. construction with separate interlined waistband, front slide fastener fly, straight side pockets, uncut darts, unhemmed bottom, seat seam outlet, hook and eye waistband, two hip pockets, button and buttonhole closure on

7、 the left hip pocket. The following seam allowances shall be overedge stitched; the inseam, outseam below bottom pocket opening shall finish 6 to 6-1/2 inches between bartacks. The back hip pockets shall finish 5-3/4 to 6-1/4 inches deep. The pocket openings shall be uniform in width, with welts mea

8、suring 1/8 to 3/16 inch. machine and shall finish 3/8 to 1/2 inch long. The trousers shall be bartacked at the base of the fly in line with the left fly J-stitching, and at the ends of all pocket openings; the bartacks shall be perpendicular to the opening and shall catch the pocketing. The hip pock

9、et on wearers left shall have a buttonhole of the eyelet end, taper bar type, with ends tacked, worked over gimp, with a cut length of 5/8 to 3/4 inch. The buttonhole shall be vertical, in the center of the pocket with the inside edge of eyelet 3/16 to 5/16 inch below the joining seam of welt edge.

10、needle seat seamer. inches wide. The bottom edge of waistband shall be raise stitched 1/16 to 1/8 inch from the seam, through waistband and seam allowances. The belt loops shall be cut from the basic material and shall measure 5/8 to 3/4 inch wide. exception of the center back loop, shall be sewn in

11、to the seam at the bottom of the waistband and bartacked 1/8 inch below folded top end, which shall be aligned with the top edge of waistband. The belt loop opening shall measure 1-1/2 to 1-5/8 inches finished. The center back loop shall be centered over the seat seam and bartacked on top and bottom

12、, with top folded edge even with top of waistband. There shall be seven loops for sizes up to and including size 37, and eight loops for size 38 and above (see Figure i). shall be positioned on right front 1-1/4 to 1-3/4 inches from right fly joining seam. The trousers shall be of single needle All

13、bartacks shall be made by The seat seam shall be joined with a double The waistband lining shall finish 2 (2 1/8) The belt loops, with the The location for the extra loop for larger sizes Material. The basic material for the trousers shall be a dyed polyester/cotton 2 up 1 down, right-hand twill wit

14、h a blend of no less than 50% polyester, with the remainder of combed cotton, and a minimum weight of 6.8 oz/sq yd. The color for the class 3 trousers shall be Blue (Shade No. 3362), matching piece number 78349. The color for the class 4 trousers shall be Khaki (Shade No. 3729), matching piece numbe

15、r 80301. The finished cloth shall conform to the requirements specified in Table I: 2 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-A-A-55085 = ?74 0143588 30T A-A-5 5 O 85 Table I. Characteristic Requirement (Min) Test method Weight 6.8 oz/sq yd N

16、on-fibrous material 6.0 max. Breaking strength (min.) 170 lbs. - warp 85 lbs. - filling Yarns per inch 102 ends/inch (min.) 50 pick/inch Tearing strength 7.0 lbs. - warp (min. ) 5.0 lbs. - filling Crease resistant finish - 5/ Seam efficiency Not less than 90% min. Colorfastness to: Laundering Class

17、4 L/ A/ Light Class 4 A/ Perspiration Class 4 3/ Crocking Munsell Value 8.5 2/ Shrinkage 2.0% - warp 2.0% - fill - 4/ ASTM-D 3776-85 Option C ASTM-D 629-88 Sec 9 ASTM-D 5034-90 ASTM-D 3775-85 ASTM-D 1424-83 - 6/ FED-STD-5110 AATCC 61-1989 AATCC 16-1990 Option A AATCC 15-1989 AATCC 8-1988 AATCC 96-19

18、88 Drying method A Washing method IC - i/ Using 10 stainless steel balls, drying after each of 3 laundering cycles. fibers of the color transfer cloth shall be evaluated. - 2/ Munsell Scale - 3/ AATCC Grey Scale for Color Change - 4/ Test piece shall measure 22 x 22 inches, with 18 inch benchmarks.

19、- 5/ The resin finish used to provide a crease resistant finished shall be of a non-chlorine retentive type and the material shall show no loss of colorfastness or no more discoloration than the standard sample. - 6/ unless otherwise specified, a certificate of compliance shall be submitted and will

20、 acceptable for the stated requirements. only the stain on the cotton and polyester 3 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-A-A-55085 9999974 0343589 246 9 A-A-5 50 85 Pocketinu and lininq. The material for the pockets, lining, and right fl

21、y lining shall be twill cloth CO wa i s t band forming t class-1 of A-A-52106: The color shall be Black 423 for class 3 trousers; natural, unbleached, or white for class 4 trousers. Interlininq. Class 3 trousers. The material for interlining waistbands for class 3 trousers shall be a polyester or a

22、polyester/cellulose blend non-woven conforming to Type V of A-A-50186. Class 4 trousers. The material for interlining waistbands for class 4 trousers shall be bleached or unbleached cotton buckram conforming to Type II of A-A-50186. As an alternate, the material for interlining the waistband may be

23、a polyester or polyester/cellulose blend non-woven material conforming to Type V of A-A-50186. Waistband stabilizer. The material for the waistband stabilizer shall be interlining cloth conforming to Type I of A-A-52108. Thread. shall conform to A-A-50199. The thread shall be cotton-covered polyeste

24、r core and - Use Ticket No. p1v Seaming and stitching 50, 70 2 or 3 Button sewing, bartacks, and buttonholes 50 2 or 3 Overedging 70 2 or 3 AT, CA 66060 and the class 4 trousers shall be Khaki P-1, CA 66019. The colored thread shall show fastness to light and laundering. The color of the thread for

25、the class 3 trousers shall be Blue GimD. The gimp for reinforcing buttonholes shall be a no. 8 gimp conforming to Type I or II of A-A-50198, matching the color of thread, and shall show “good“ colorfastness to laundering. Buttons. The buttons for the left hip pocket shall be Type II, class D, style

26、4, 22-line, conforming to V-B-871. The color of the buttons for the class 3 trousers shall be Black BT, Cable 62001 and the class 4 trousers shall be Khaki AL, Cable 62026. 4 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-A-A-55 O 85 Slide fastener.

27、 The slide fastener shall be non-separating, non reversible, size LM with a cam or pin lock and short tab pull. All metal components of the slide fastener shall be brass and the semi-automatic pin lock cover and spring shall be stainless steel. A staple bottom stop is required. The color of the tape

28、 shall be the approximate shade of the basic material and shall show “good“ colorfastness to laundering. Hook and eve. The hook and eye for the waistband shall be North and Judd (Hook flex H-49 and E-SO), Universal Button Co. (Talon #7, #8 hook and #8 eye or #85 eye), Patwin Inc., (Slim-Slack with M

29、B eye) or equal. The finish of both components shall be nickel plate. Sizes and Measurements. The finished trousers shall conform to the measurements below. Table II. - Sizes and measurements Waist I Size 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 42 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 42 Toler

30、ances: - + 1/2 - S - 32 32 32 32 32 32 32 32 32 32 32 32 32 32 32 +1 Inseam R 34 34 34 34 34 34 34 34 34 34 34 34 34 34 34 +1 -1/2 -1/2 L 36 36 36 36 36 36 36 36 36 36 36 36 36 36 36 38 38 38 38 38 38 38 38 38 38 38 38 38 38 38 +1 +1 -1/2 -1/2 S 18-1/4 18-1/4 18-1/2 18-1/2 18-3/4 18-3/4 19 19 19-1/4

31、 19-1/4 19-1/2 19-1/2 19-3/4 19-3/4 20 Bottom (C) R 18-1/4 18-1/4 18-1/2 18-1/2 18-3/4 18-3/4 19 19 19-1/4 19-1/4 19-1/2 19-1/2 19-3/4 19-3/4 20 L 18-1/4 18-1/4 18-1/2 18-1/2 18-3/4 18-3/4 19 19 19-1/4 19-1/4 19-1/2 19-1/2 19-3/4 19-3/4 20 XL 18-1/4 18-1/4 18-1/2 18-1/2 18-3/4 18-3/4 19 19 19-1/4 19

32、-1/4 19-1/2 19-1/2 19-3/4 19-3/4 20 - + 1/2 - + 1/2 - + 1/2 + 1/2 5 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-A-A-55085 D 9999974 OI143.593 9T4 D A-A- 5 5 O 85 Table II. - Sizes and measurements - cont. Size Seat (D) 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35

33、36 37 38 39 40 42 37-1/2 38-1/2 39-1/2 40-1/2 41-1/2 42-1/2 43-1/2 44-1/2 45-1/2 46 47 47-1/2 48 48-1/2 50-1/2 Tolerance: + 3/4, -1/2 (A) - With slide fastener closed and waistband hooked, measure along top edge of waistband from folded edge to folded edge. (B) - Measure along inseam from crotch sea

34、m to (unhemmed) bottom edge of leg. (C) - Measure across unhemmed bottom edge of leg. Multiply by two. (D) - Measure across front of trousers from folded edge to folded edge, 1 inch above fly bartack. Multiply by two. Label/markinq. A commercial type label is acceptable, provided that an additional

35、printed cloth label containing the contractors name , contract number, size, fiber content and National Stock Number (NSN) is caught on the stitching of the commercial label. The label shall be stitched on 4 sides to the right side pocketing, facing the wearer. The commercial label shall include the

36、 following MACHINE WASH, WARM (120 F MAX) USE MILD SOAP OR DETERGENT DO NOT BLEACH OR STARCH TUMBLE DRY, MEDIUM HEAT, REMOVE PROMPTLY TOUCH UP WITH IRON - LOW SETTING OR USE NAVEDTRA 414-01-45-81 FORMULA II 6 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from I

37、HS-,-,-A-A-55085 = 9999974 0343592 830 Patterns. The Government shall furnish a single size pattern. The contractor is responsible for grading patterns for additional sizes. The pattern generally provides for a seam allowance of 3/8 inch for joining seams, except for seat seams, inseams, and outseam

38、s, which shall have a seam allowance of 1/2 inch. The Government patterns shall be used to make the contractors working patterns. The government patterns shall not be altered in any way. The working patterns may be modified to accommodate automation; however, if the working patterns are modified the

39、 design and measurements must be maintained as intended by Government patterns. Commercial patterns may be used in lieu of I conform to the cited design and finished measurements. A-A-5 5 O 85 7 Size label. The size label shall be applied by a black marking medium or shall be impregnated and coated

40、with a permanent pigmented acrylic composition. The inscription and format shall be as follows: 34 R (EXAMPLE) 8405-00-000-0000 NOTE: The lengths (Short, Regular, Long, and X-Long) may be abbreviated as S, R, L and XL. Pressinq. All pressing shall be accomplished with a heated pressing iron or machi

41、ne. Product Demonstration Model. When required, offerers shall submit samples of their intended production. The Product Demonstration Model will consist of units independently developed. Product Demonstration Models will be analyzed and evaluated by the government. Evaluation criteria and basis for

42、award are contained in the solicitation. Product Demonstration Models will be retained by the government. The manufacturers approved Demonstration Model shall be used as a manufacturing standard for conformance to the quality, workmanship and style requirements of this document and patterns. One (1)

43、 Product Demonstration Model approved by DPSC under the resultant contract will serve as a manufacturing standard for the corresponding production items delivered under this contract. Offerers are advised that the Product Demonstration Model does not relieve the successful offerer of his responsibil

44、ity to perform in accordance with the Commercial Item Description specified above. 7 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-A-A-55085 9999974 0143593 777 A-A-55 O 85 Oualitv Assurance. Responsibilitv of inspection. The contract r is resp nsi

45、ble for assuring the trousers conform to the requirements of this document and the demonstration model. The contractor is also responsible for both inprocess and final inspection for the entire contract quantity. The Government reserves the right to check any trouser(s) at any time during or after p

46、roduction for design, construction, workmanship, appearance, quality, and conformance to the Demonstration Model and finished dimensions on figure 1 and the measurement chart. Defective items shall be adjusted or replaced by the contractor. First lot. A first lot consisting of not less than 100 trou

47、sers shall be submitted and inspected for compliance with the design, construction, workmanship, appearance, quality, and dimensional requirements stated herein and with the approved demonstration model Certification. The contractor shall certify and maintain substantiating evidence that the product

48、 offered meets the salient characteristics of this description and that the product conforms to the producers own drawings, specifications, standards and quality assurance practices. The Government reserves the rights to require proof of such conformance prior to the first delivery and thereafter as

49、 may be otherwise provided for, under the provisions of the contract. Reliance on contractor quality assurance systems shall not relieve the contractor of the responsibility of ensuring all products or supplies submitted to the Government for acceptance comply with all requirements of the contract. Examination. Trouser lots shall be inspected in accordance with “Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes“, ANSI/ASQC 21