NAVY MIL-DTL-29451 B-1997 JACKET MEN-S - INTERMEDIATE WEIGHT POLYESTER WOOL《聚酯或羊毛中等重量女士夹克》.pdf

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1、 MIL-DTL-29953B 9999306 2055536 263 I INCH-POUND I DETAIL MIL-DTL-29451B (MC) 16 October 1997 SUPERSEDING MIL-J-29451A(MC) 23 May 1994 SPECIFICATION JACKET, MENS - INTERMEDIATE WEIGHT, POLYESTER/WOOL This specification is approved for use by U.S. Marine Corps, Department of the Navy, and is availabl

2、e for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense. 1. SCOPE 1.1, Scope. This specification covers requirements for a male lightweight jacket. Beneficial comments (recommendations, additions, deletions) and any pertinent data which may be of use in improving this document should

3、be addressed to the Commander (PSE-D)t Marine Corps Systems Command, Quantico, VA 22134-5010 by using the Standardization Document Improvement Proposal (DD Form 1426) appearing at the end of this document or by letter. AMSC N/A FSC 8405 DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release; distribu

4、tion is unlimited. Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-2945LB m 999990b 2055537 3TT m MIL-DTL-2 94 51B (MC) 1.2. Classification. The j.acket will be one type in the following sizes as specified (see 6.2): Short 30 32 34 36 38 40 4

5、2 44 46 48 Schedule of sizes Reqular Lonq 30 32 34 36 3% 40 42 44 46 48 30 32 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS 2.1. General. in sections 3 and 4 of this specification. include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examp

6、les. every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements documents cited in sections 3 and 4 of this specification, whether or not they are listed. The documents listed in this sectionare specified This secti

7、on does not While 2.2. Government documents. 2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. specified, the issues of these documents are those listed in the issue of the Department of

8、 Defense Index of Specifications and Standards (DoDISS) and supplement thereto, cited in the solicitation (see 6.2). Unless otherwise SPECIFICATIONS FEDERAL A-A-50198 - Thread, Gimp, Cotton, Buttonhole A-A-50199 - Thread, Polyester Core, Cotton and Polyester Covered 2 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo

9、 reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-A-A-52106 - DDD-L-20 - V-B-871 - V-F-106 - MIL-DTL-2 94 51B (MC) Cloth, Twill or Plain Weave, Polyester and Polyester Blend Label: For Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage, (General Use) Button, Sewing Hole, and Button, Staple, (Plastic)

10、Fastener, Slide, Interlocking DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE MIL-B-371 - Braid, Textile, Tubular MIL-T-3530 - Thread and Twine, Mildew Resistant or Water MIL-C-10176 - Cloth, Gabardine: Wool, Polyester and Wool MIL-C-21852 - Cloth, Taffeta, Nylon MIL-C-44296 - Cloth, Fusibles Repellent Treated STAN DARDS FED

11、ERAL FED-STD-191 - Textile Test Methods FED-STD-751 - Stitches, Seams, and Stitchings (Unless otherwise indicated, copies of the above specifications, standards, handbooks are available from the Standardization Document Order Desk, 700 Robbins Avenue, Building 4D, Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094. ) 2.3.

12、 Non-Government publications. The following document(s) form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. otherwise specified, the issues of the documents which are DoD adopted are those listed in the issue of the DoDISS cited in the solicitation. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of

13、 documents not listed in the DoDISS are the issues of the documents cited in the solicitation (see 6.2). Unless - ANSI/ASQC 21.4 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes (Application for copies should be addressed to The American National Standards Institute, 11 West 42nd Street

14、, New York, NY, 10036.) Department of Defense (DoD) Standard Shades for Buttons 1966 3 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-29451B 9999906 2055529 T72 MIL-DTL-29451B (MC) Department of Defense (DoD) Standard Color Card of Official

15、Standardized Shades for Sewing Threads 1968 (Application for copies may be obtained from the Color Association of the United States, Inc., 409 W. 44th Street, New York, NY 10016-0927.) 2.4. Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited her

16、ein, the text of this document takes precedence. however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained. Nothing in this document, 3. REQUIREMENTS 3.1. Standard sample. The standard sample is furnished solely for guidance and information to the contractor (

17、see 6.3). Variation from this specification may appear in the sample, in which case the specification shall govern. 3.2. First article. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection in accordance with 4.3. 3.3. Materials. 3.3.1 Basic fabric. The basic fabric shall

18、 be cloth gabardine, polyester/wool, 10.6 ounce, pewter, shade 2246 conforming to type II, class 12 of MIL-C-10176. The fabric shall have a durable water resistant finish. 3.3.2 Knit fabric for cuffs, collar and waistband. The yarn used shall be single ply 100% polyester. The knitted cloth shall be

19、constructed on a circular or flat bed knitting machine using a 1 X 1 rib stitch. per square yard. minimum courses per inch shall be 28. finished cuffs, collar, and waistband cloth shall match pewter, shade 2246 and shall show colorfastness to light, perspiration, wet-dry cleaning and crocking equal

20、to or better than the standard sample. When a standard sample is not available, the cloth shall show a Munsel value for crocking no lower than 8.5. The cloth shall weigh a minimum of 11 ounces The minimum wales per inch shall be 18 and the The color of the dyed and 4 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo

21、reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- MIL-DTL-2945LB = 9999906 2055520 794 MIL-DTL-29451B (MC) 3.3.3 Lininq. The material for the lining shall be nylon taffeta cloth, pewter, shade 2246 (see 6.3), 1.9 ounce, conforming to type IV of MIL-C-21852. 3.3.4 Fusible interlininq

22、. The fusible interlining for the front, shoulder straps, pocket welts, center back and waist extension shall be cloth nonwoven, fusible, nylon and polyester, polyamide conforming to type V, class 1, style B of MIL-C-44296. 3.3.5 Polyester twill. The material for the front pockets, inside breast poc

23、ket stay and inside breast pocket shall be polyester twill, natural shade conforming to class 1 of A-A-52106. 3.3.6 Slide fastener. The slide fastener for the front closure shall conform to type IV, style 8, size LM of V-F-106, with a short tab pull. The tape shall be cotton warp and nylon filling,

24、5/8 to 3/4 inch wide, and color shall be taupe, shade Y, cable No. 66525. All the components of the slide fastener shall be brass, and from the same supplier. 3.3.7 Buttons. The buttons for the shoulder straps, shall conform to type II, class D, style 20 or 21, size 24 line of V-B-871. The buttons s

25、hall have a glossy finish, green, shade AF, cable No. 62017 (see DoD Standard Shades for Buttons 1966). 3.3.8 Thread. The thread shall be polyester, cotton covered, conforming to A-A-50199 as follows. The thread for seaming and stitching the outer shell shall be water repellent treated in accordance

26、 with type II, class 3 of MIL-T-3530. Use Ticket No. p1/ Seaming, stitching, buttonhole 50 making and bartacks 70 2/3 2 Sewing on buttons 30 3 3.3.8.1. Color and colorfastness. The thread shall be dyed taupe, shade A, cable No. 66030. The dyed thread shall show fastness to light laundering (after th

27、ree cycles), and wet (dry) cleaning equal to or better than the standard sample. When no standard sample is available, the dyed thread shall show good fastness to light laundering (after three cycles), and wet (dry) cleaning. Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted witho

28、ut license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-2945LB 9999906 2055523 b20 MIL-DTL-29451B (MC) 3.3.9 Gimp. The buttonhole gimp shall be cotton, No. 8 soft or glazed finished, conforming to type I or II of A-A-50198. The color of the gimp shall be taupe, shade A, cable No. 66030 (see DoD Standard Color Card of Offic

29、ial Standardization Shades for Sewing Threads 1968). laundering (after three cycles) and wet (dry) cleaning equal to or better than the standard sample. When no standard sample is available, the dyed gimp shall show good fastness to laundering (after three cycles) and wet (dry) cleaning. The dyed gi

30、mp shall show fastness to 3.3.10 Labels. Each jacket shall have a combination identification size and instruction label conforming to type VI, class 14 of DDD-L-20. cleaning and shall have the following inscription: The printing shall show fastness to dry Nomenclature: Jacket Mens - Intermediate Wei

31、ght Size: 40 Regular (Example) Fiber content: 55% Polyester, 45% Wool (Example) Contract number: DLA 100-00-0-0000 (Example) Name of contractor: DRY CLEAN ONLY 3.3.10.1.Size label. class 2 of DDD-L-20. size designation specified in 1.2 followed by the letters S, R, or L for Short, Regular, and Long

32、as shown by the following example : The size label shall conform to type VI, The label shall consist of the numerical 40R 3.3.11 Hanqer loop. braid that conforms to type IX, class 1 of MIL-B-371. shall approximate the shade of the basic fabric. The hanger loop shall be cotton or rayon The color 3.4.

33、 Desiqn. shown on Figures 1 and 2, single breasted with covered slide fastener front closure, knitted collar, waistband and cuffs, two inverted slash pockets, two inside pockets, set-in sleeves, a strap with a button and buttonhole on each shoulder, bi-swing back and full-lined. The jacket shall be

34、the U.S. Marine Corps design 3.5. Patterns. Standard patterns will be furnished to the contractor by the Government. altered in any way and shall be used as a guide for cutting the contractors working patterns. The standard patterns shall not be The contractors working patterns 6 Provided by IHSNot

35、for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- _ MIL-DTL-29451B m 979b 2055522 567 m MIL-DTL-2 9451B (MC) PATTERN NOMENCLATURE shall be identical to the standard patterns. The standard patterns provide 3/8 inch allowance for seams, and the joining of knit cuffs, coll

36、ar and waist bands; 1/4 inch for shoulder strap construction; zipper to be set in accordance with notches on pattern and 1/4 inch seams for setting pocket welts. Standard patterns show size, seam allowances, directional lines for cutting, and are marked or notched for proper placement and assembly o

37、f the component parts. NO. OF CUT PARTS 3.5.1 Pattern parts. Jackets shall be cut from the materials specified herein in accordance with the number of pattern parts indicated below: Ylaterial: Basic, polyester/wool ITEM Front :enter back Side back Sleeve Shoulder strap (top) Shoulder strap (bottom)

38、Front facing Pocket welt (top) Pocket welt (bottom) Waistband extension facing Front pocket facing Material: Cloth, knit Sleeve cuff 2 Collar 1 Waistband 1 Material: Cloth, polyester, twill 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 Shoulder strap Waistband extension facing Center back (bi-swing stay) Front facing Poc

39、ket welt (top) Pocket welt (bottom) 12 13 14 2 2 2 2 2 2 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 2 1 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 Lower front pocket Inside breast pocket stay Inside breast pocket 4 2 2 Material: Lining 7 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-D

40、FL-2945LB 0b 2055523 4T3 MIL-DTL-29451B (MC) 24 25 26 27 I ITEM I PATTERN NOMENCLATURE I NO. OF CUT PARTS I Front Back Sleeve Facing, inside pockets 2 1 2 2 3.6. Construction. The jacket shall be manufactured in accordance with the operations and the stitch, seam, and stitching types specified in Ta

41、ble I. The manufacturer will not be required to follow the exact sequence of operations as listed, but all operations must be performed. The thread and the fabric shall not be lubricated by any means prior to or during the seaming. The stitch, seam, and stitching type specified in Table I shall conf

42、orm to FED-STD-751. The number of stitches per inch as specified in Table I indicates the minimum and maximum number permitted. If two or more methods or seams or stitch types are given for the same part of an operation, any one of them may be used. Where stitch type 401 is used, the looper (under t

43、hread) shall be on the inside of the jacket. stitchings not caught by other seams and stitchings.shal1 be. backtacked not less than 1/2 inch. 301 shall be secured by stitching back of the break not less than 1/2 inch. backstitched not less than 1 inch with the stitching superimposed and anchoring th

44、e ends of the break. 3.6.1 Shade markinq. The component parts of the jacket cut from one piece of basic material and lining material shall be shade marked to ensure a uniform shade and size throughout the garment. Any method of shade marking may be used except: The ends of all seams and Thread break

45、s of stitch type Thread breaks or skipped stitch type 401 shall be a. Corrosive metal fastening devices. b. Sew-on shade tickets. c. traces of paper or adhesive mass to the material upon removal of the tickets. Adhesive type tickets which show discoloration or leave 3.6.2 Fusinq. The fusible interli

46、ning cloth shall be fused to the basic material in accordance with the following conditions: a. Temperature between pressing surfaces of 300F minimum and 320“ maximum, at the fuseline (not the temperature at the clock). 8 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without l

47、icense from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-2945LB 9999906 2055524 33T D MIL-DTL-29451B (MC) OPERATION :ut t inq . i. Cut the jacket in strict iccordance with patterns furnished by :he Government. b. Pressure between pressing surfaces of.6-pounds force c. Pressing time of 12 seconds minimum and 14 seconds d. Heat-d

48、ry. per square inch (ibf/in2) minimum and 7-lbf/in2 maximum. maximum. TABLE I. Manufacturinq requirements. STCH TYPE NO 1 SEAM/ STCH TYPE STCH/IN NDL BOB/ LPR 9 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-NO 2 - 3 4 5 MIL-DTL-2945LB w 9999906 205

49、5525 276 = MIL-DTL-29451B (MC) TABLE I. Manufacturinq resuirernents - Continued. OPERATI ON - Replacement of damaaed Darts. a. Replace at time of cutting any ?arts of jacket containing holes or serious weakening defects such as smashes, multiple floats, loose or deakening slubs, etc. , expected to develop into holes, shade bars and dye streaks or unsightly slubs, etc., aff