NAVY MIL-DTL-29395 B-1997 SLACKS WOMEN-S - MUSICIAN-S《女士家长裤》.pdf

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1、MIL-DTL-29395B m 9999906 2060379 365 m I INCH-POUND I MIL-DTL-29395B (MC) 21 October 1997 SUPERSEDING MIL-S-29395A (MC) 9 March 1994 DETAIL SPECIFICATION SLACKS, WOMENS - MUSICIANS This specification is approved for use by U.S. Marine Corps, Department of the Navy, and is available for use by all De

2、partments and Agencies of the Department of Defense. 1. SCOPE 1.1. Scope. This specification covers the requirements for slacks for wear by female members of the U.S. Marine Band. 1.2. Classification. following classes, sizes and lengths (see 6.2). The slacks will be of one type in the Class 1 - Pol

3、yester/Wool, Gabardine: Sky Blue, Shade 2319 Class 2 - Polyester/Rayon, Gabardine: White, Shade 2400 Class 3 - Polyester/Rayon, Gabardine: White, Shade 2400 (Lined) Beneficial comments (recommendations, additions, deletions) and any pertinent data which may be of use in improving this document shoul

4、d be addressed to the Commander (PSE-D), Marine Corps Systems Command, Quantico, VA 22134-5010 by using the Standardization Document Improvement Proposal (DD Form 1426) appearing at the end of this document or by letter. AMSC N/A FSC 8410 DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release; distri

5、bution is unlimited. Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-29395B 999990b 20bOL8O 987 MIL-DTL-29395B (MC) b Schedule of sizes and lenqths Sizes: XO, 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 14, 16, 18 Lengths: Short, Regular and Long 2. APPLICABLE DOCUM

6、ENTS 2.1. General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3 and 4 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure

7、the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements documents cited in sections 3 and 4 of this specification, whether or not they are listed. 2.2. Government documents. 2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specification

8、s, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those listed in the issue of the Department of Defense Index of Specifications and Standards (DoDISS) and supplement thereto, cited in the solicitati

9、on (see 6.2). SPECIFICATIONS FEDERAL A-A-5 O 198 A-A-5 O 199 A-A-52 O 94 A-A-52 1 O 6 V-B-871 V-F-106 DDD-L-20 - Thread, Gimp, Cotton, Buttonhole - Thread, Polyester Core, Cotton or Polyester - Thread, Cotton - Cloth, Twill or Plain Weave, Polyester and - Button, Sewing Hole, and Button, Staple, - F

10、astener, Slide, Interlocking - Label: For Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage Covered Polyester Blend (Plastic) (General Use) DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE MIL-C-10176 - Cloth, Gabardine: Wool, Polyester and Wool MIL-C-29405 - Cloth, Broadcloth: Wool and Wool/Nylon 2 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction

11、 or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- MIL-DTL-29395B m 9939906 2060181 813 m MIL-DTL-29395B (MC) MIL-C-41820 - Cloth, Gabardine, Polyester and Rayon MIL-C-44296 - Cloth, Fusibles MIL-C-87059 - Cloth, Knitted Nylon, Tricot STANDARDS FEDERAL FED-STD-191 - Textile Test Methods FED-STD-

12、751 - Stitches, Seams and Stitchings DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE MIL-STD-656 - Provisions for Evaluating Quality of Slacks, MIL-STD-984 - Provisions for Size Labeling of Womens Women s Uniform Clothing (Unless otherwise indicated, copies of the above specifications, standards, handbooks are available from

13、 the Standardization Document Order Desk, 700 Robbins Avenue, Building 4D, Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094.) 2.3. Non-Government publications. The following document(s) form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of the documents which are DoD adop

14、ted are those listed in the issue of the DoDISS cited in the solicitation. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of documents not listed in the DoDISS are the issues of the documents cited in the solicitation (see 6.2). Department of Defense (DoD) Standard Color Card of Official Standardized Shades

15、 for Sewing Threads 1968 Department of Defense (DoD) Standard Shades for Buttons 1966 (Application for copies should be addressed to the Color Association of the United States, Inc., 409 W. 44th Street, New York, NY 10016-0927. ) 2.4. Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text

16、of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained. 3 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without li

17、cense from IHS-,-,- MIL-DTL-29395B m 0b 20bOL82 75T m MIL-DTL-29395B (MC) 3. REQUIREMENTS 3.1. Standard sample. Standard samples are furnished solely for guidance and information to the contractor (see 6.3). Variation from this specification may appear in the sample, in which case this specification

18、 shall govern. 3.2. First article. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection in accordance with 4.3. 3.3. Materials. 3.3.1 Basic materials. The basic material for each class of slacks shall be as follows: a. Class 1. Cloth, 10.6 ounces, polyester/wool, gabardi

19、ne, sky blue, shade 2319 conforming to type II, class 12 of MIL-C-10176. b. Class 2. Cloth, 8 ounces, polyester/rayon, gabardine, white, shade 2400 conforming to type III, class 1 of MIL-C-41820. c. Class 3. Cloth, 8 ounces, polyester/rayon, gabardine, white, shade 2400 conforming to type III, class

20、 1 of MIL-C-41820. 3.3.2 Lininq and pocketinq. The material for the pockets, crotch lining and pocket stays shall be twill or plain weave cloth, polyester or polyester blend cloth conforming to class 1 of A-A-52106. The color shall be white. 3.3.3 Lininq. The material for lining the class 3 slacks s

21、hall be cloth, nylon, tricot warp knit, 2.7 oz/sq yard, white, shade 3006 conforming to MIL-C-87059 and Table III. 3.3.4 Ornamental stripes. The material for the ornamental stripes shall be cloth, wool, broadcloth, scarlet, shade 2501 and white, 16.5 ounces conforming to type I, class 4 of MIL-C-294

22、05. 3.3.5 Thread. The thread for each class of slacks shall be cotton conforming to A-A-52094 as follows: 4 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- MIL-DTL-29395B = 99990b 20bOL83 bb MIL-DTL-29395B (MC) Use Twe Ticket No. Ply Buttonholes Sea

23、ms, stitching Overedging Buttons III O 3 III 30,50 3 I 70 2 II 16,20 4 As an alternate to the cotton thread, a polyester, cotton-covered thread conforming to A-A-50199, ticket No. 50, 3-ply or ticket No. 70, 2-ply may be used. CAUTION: Some automatic machines will not operate properly with this thre

24、ad. 3.3.5.1. Automatic button sewinq. If an automatic machine which sews and shanks (wraps) the buttons in one operation is used, the thread shall be waxed. 3.3.5.2. Color. The color of the thread for each class of slacks shall conform to the following: a. Class 1. Blue, shade AT, cable No. 66060 b.

25、 Class 2 and 3. White, shade AG, cable No. 66049 NOTE: See DoD Standard Color Card of Official Standardized Shades for Sewing Threads 1968. 3.3.5.3. Colorfastness. The colored thread shall show fastness to light and wet (dry) cleaning equal to or better than the standard sample. When a standard samp

26、le is not available, the colored thread shall show “good“ fastness to light and wet (dry) cleaning. 3.3.6 Gimp. The gimp for reinforcing the buttonhole shall conform to type I or II, ticket No. 8 of A-A-50198. The color of the gimp shall be the same as indicated for thread in 3.3.5.2 with same color

27、fastness requirements specified for thread in 3.3.5.3. 3.3.7 Button. The button for the waistband shall be 27-line and for hip pocket 22-line conforming to type II, class D, style 4 of V-B-871. The color of the buttons for each class of slacks shall be as follows: 5 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo r

28、eproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- MIL-DTL-29395B W 99999Ob 2ObOl18rl 522 W MIL-DTL-29395B (MC) a. Class 1. Blue, shade BV, cable No. 62003. b. Class 2 and 3. White, shade BA, cable No. 62031. NOTE: See DoD Standard Shades for Buttons 1966. 3.3.8 Slide fasteners. The s

29、lide fasteners shall conform to either 3.3.8.1 or 3.3.8.2. 3.3.8.1. Metal. The slide fasteners shall conform to type I, style 3, short tab pull, cam lock size LS (commercial No. 4), of V-F-106, except that the salt spray test shall not be required. All the components of the slide fastener shall be b

30、rass and from the same supplier. The tape shall be cotton or synthetic or a combination. The length of the slide fastener shall start at the notch and finish at the raw edge at the waist. 3.3.8.2. Plastic coil. The slide fastener shall be manufactured of polyester or nylon consisting of an automatic

31、 or cam lock and shall be equal to comercial size No. 2. The tape shall be a blend of nylon and cotton or polyester and cotton or polyester. The length of the slide fastener shall start at the notch and finish at the raw edge at the waist. 3.3.8.3. Color. The color of the slide fastener tape shall b

32、e as follows: a. Class 1. Blue, shade AA, cable No. 66527. b. Class 2 and 3. White, shade C, cable No. 66503. 3.3.8.4. Colorfastness. The dyed slide fastener tape shall show colorfastness to laundering equal to or better than the standard sample when tested as specified in V-F-106. When a standard s

33、ample is not available, the tape shall show “good“ colorfastness when tested as specified in V-F-106. 3.3.9 Combination label. Each pair of slacks shall have a combination identification, and instruction label conforming to type VI, classes 1 and 3 of DDD-L-20. The slacks are intended to be dry clea

34、ned and the labels shall show fastness to dry cleaning. The inscription shall be as follows: SLACKS, WOMENS - MUSICIANS Fiber content: Name of contractor: DRY CLEAN ONLY 6 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-flIL-DTL-29395B 06 2ObOL5 4b m

35、 MIL-DTL-29395B (MC) 3.3.9.1. Size label. The size label shall conform to type VI, class 2 of DDD-L-20 except the stock number is not required. The inscription on the size label shall conform to MIL-STD-984; Table II Height ranges, Table III Body measurements for Marine Corps and Figure 2. Example o

36、f label for womens slacks is as follows: Hip circumference: 36“ Waist circumference: 2 5- 1 / 2 Height: 63-1/2 to 67“ R (Size code 6) 3.3.10 Fusible interlininq. The fusible interlining for the waistband and left fly shall be black or gray. The fusible shall conform to type V, class 1, style B of MI

37、L-C-44296. Fusible interlining for classes 2 and 3 shall be white, nonwoven. Class 1 may be black or gray. All classes have the same requirements. The fusible shall be fused to the basic material as recommended by the supplier of the fusible. 3.3.11 Hook and eye. A hook shall be attached to the left

38、 waistband and an eye shall be attached to the right waistband through a suitable reinforcement. The finish shall be nickel plate. 3.4. Desiqn. The slacks shall be the U.S. Marine Corps design shown on Figures 1 and 2, having a two-piece waistband with button closure, with hook and eye, two back poc

39、kets with flaps, outlet at the seat seam, front fly with slide fastener and slightly tapered legs with unhemmed overedged bottoms. class 1 slacks shall have a scarlet and white ornamental stripe sewn to each outseam. The class 3 slacks shall be lined. The 3.5. Patterns. Standard patterns to be used

40、to cut working patterns will be furnished by the Government. The patterns allow 1/2 inch seam allowance for all seams, except as otherwise indicated herein. The working patterns shall be identical to the government patterns. Neither the government patterns nor the working patterns shall be altered i

41、n any way. 3.5.1 List of pattern parts. The slacks shall be cut from the materials specified herein in accordance with the pattern parts indicated below: 7 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-NIL-DTL-29395B D 999990b 206018b 3TS MIL-DTL-2

42、 93 95B (MC) 10 11 12 13 Left fly Left waistband Right waistband Back pocket flap IMaterial: Basic Front Back Left waistband Right waistband Left fly Right fly placket Back pocket bearer Back pocket facing Back pocket flap IMaterial: Interlining (fusible) I IMaterial: Lining (Cloth, twill) Crotch li

43、ning Pockets 2 2 1 3.6. Construction. The slacks shall be manufactured in accordance with operation requirements as specified in Table I. The contractor is not required to follow the exact sequence of operations as listed in Table I, but all operations specified shall be used to manufacture the slac

44、ks. 3.6.1 Stitches, seams and stitchinq. Stitch, seam and stitching types specified in Table I shall conform to FED-STD-751. Whenever two or more methods for seam or stitching types are given for the same part of the operation, any one of them may be used. Where stitch 401 is used, the looper (under

45、 thread) shall be on the inside of the slacks. The minimum and maximum number of stitches per inch shall be as specified in Table I. 3.6.1.1. Thread breaks and ends of seams. The ends of all seams and stitching produced with 301 stitch type, when not caught in other seams or stitching, shall be back

46、stitched not less than 1/4 inch. Thread breaks (all stitch types) shall be secured by stitching back of the break not less than 1/2 inch. stitches may be repaired by using 301 stitch type. The ends of a continuous line of stitching shall be overlapped not less than 1/2 inch. Thread ends of darts sha

47、ll be trimmed to a length of Skipped 8 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-29395B 0b 20bOL87 231 MIL-DTL-29395B (MC) SEAM/ STCH TYPE 1/2 inch. When an automatic dart machine is used, the ends shall be backstitched not less than th

48、ree stitches. STCH/IN 3.6.2 Buttonhole. The buttonhole shall be eyelet end, taper bar type. The finished cut length of buttonhole shall be 3/4 inch for front of waistband, and 5/8 inch for back pocket flaps. 1 3.6.3 Pressinq. Pressing as required in Table I shall be accomplished with a heated pressi

49、ng iron or machine. Cuttinq. a. Cut the slacks in strict accordance with patterns furnished, which shall show size, placement of component parts, directional lines for cutting, marks for finished length of darts and notches for proper assembly of parts. b. All component parts of the basic material shall be cut from one piece of material except fly facings, which may be cut f