NAVY MIL-DTL-28936 B-1997 VEST MAN-S - DRESS BACKLESS (OFFICER-S)《男士衣服无后备背心(官员的)》.pdf

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1、 MIL-DTL-ZB93bB b 2051531 900 I INCH-POUND I MIL-DTL-28936B (M 23 July 1997 SUPERSEDING MIL-V-S8936A(MC) 30 September 1994 DETAIL SPECIFICATION VEST, MANS - DRESS, BACKLESS (OFFICERS) This specification is approved for use by U.S. Marine Corps, Department of the Navy, and is available for use by all

2、 Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense. 1. SCOPE 1.1. Scope. This specification covers requirements for optional backless vests in scarlet (General Officers) and white for special occasions. 1.2. Classification. The vests are provided in one type, two classes (colors) and one size. C

3、lass 1 - Scarlet (General Officers) Class 2 - White (Officers-Special Occasions) 1.3. Individual orders. When the vest is custom tailored to an individual order, this specification shall govern, except the Beneficial comments (recommendations, additions, deletions) and any pertinent data which may b

4、e of use in improving this document should be addressed to the Commander (PSE-D), Marine Corps Systems Command, Quantico, VA 22134-5010 by using the Standardization Document Improvement Proposal (DD Form 1426) appearing at the end of this document or by letter. AMSC N/A FSC 8405 DISTRIBUTION STATEME

5、NT A. Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited. Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-289368 m 9999906 2053532 8q7 m MIL-DTL-28936B (MC) detailed requirements of Section 3, Table I may be modified to the extent necessa

6、ry for good custom tailoring practice. 2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS 2.1. General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3 and 4 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information o

7、r as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements documents cited in sections 3 and 4 of this specification, whether or not they are listed. 2.2. Government documents. 2-2.1 Specificati

8、ons, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those listed in the issue of the Department of Defense Index of Specifications and Standard

9、s (DoDISS) and supplement thereto, cited in the solicitation (see 6.2). SPEC I FI CAT I ONS FEDERAL A-A-50 19 6 A-A-50198 A-A- 52 O 7 1 A-A- 52 O 94 A-A-55126 DDD-L-20 Thread, Silk Thread, Gimp, Cotton, Buttonhole Tape, Textile, Cotton, General Purpose (Unbleached, Bleached or Dyed) Thread, Cotton F

10、astener Tape, Hook and Pile, Synthetic Label : For Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage (General Use) DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE MIL-C-3 68 -Cloth, Satin, Rayon and Cloth, Twill, Rayon MIL-DTL-3461 -Button, Insignia, Metal, Uniform and Cap MIL-W-5664 -Webbing, Textile, Elastic MIL-C-21115 -Cloth, Tropical, Wo

11、ol, Polyester/Wool MIL-C-44296 -Cloth, Fusibles 2 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-2893bB 9999986 2053533 783 MIL-DTL-2 8 93 6B (MC) STANDARDS FEDERAL FED-STD-751 - Stitches, Seams and Stitchings (Unless otherwise indicated, co

12、pies of the above specifications, standards, handbooks are available from the Standardization Document Order Desk, 700 Robbins Avenue, Building 4D, Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094.) 2.3. Non-Government publications. The following document(s) form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. U

13、nless otherwise specified, the issues of the documents which are DoD adopted are those listed in the issue of the DoDISS cited in the solicitation. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of documents not listed in the DoDISS are the issues of the documents cited in the solicitation (see 6.2). ANSI/A

14、SQC 21.4 -Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes (Applications for copies should be addressed to The American National Standards Institute, 11 West 42nd Street, New York, NY 10036) Department of Defense (DoD) Standard Color Card of Official Standardized Shades for Sewing Threads

15、 1968 Department of Defense (DoD) Standard Shades for Buttons 1966 (Application for copies should be addressed to the Color Association of the United States, Inc., 200 Lexington Avenue, New York, NY 10016). 2.4. Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this document and th

16、e references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained. 3. REQUIREMENTS 3.1. Standard sample. Standard samples are guidance and information to the contractor. f

17、urnished solely for Variation from the 3 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-2893bB 9%990b MIL-DTL-28936B (MC) specification may appear in the sahple, in specification shall govern. 205L534 bLT which case 9 the 3.2. First article.

18、 When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection in accordance with 4.3. 3.3. Materials. 3.3.1 Basic material. The basic materials for the two classes of vests shall be as follows: Class - 1 Cloth, wool, tropical, scarlet shade 2502, 10.5 ounce conforming to type I,

19、 class 1 of MIL-C-21115. Class - 2 Cloth, cotton, pique, single and plied yarns, white shade 2401, mercerized finish, 5.4 ounce, preshrunk, with a minimum of 120 threads per inch in the warp and 138 per inch in the filling. and single yarn and the filling shall be singles yarn with a minimum of 36 s

20、tuffer threads in the warp and 102 threads in the filling (ground). The color shall be white shade 2401. The warp. shall be made up of two ply 3.3.2 Cloth, rayon, twill. The material for the pockets, eyelet reinforcement and inside eyelet opening shall be rayon, scarlet, shade 2506, for class 1 vest

21、 and white, shade 2401 for class 2 vest, 4.5 ounce, conforming to class 3 of MIL-C-368. 3.3.3 Cloth, fusible- The fronts, facings and pocket welts shall be interlined with fusible cloth conforming to type class 1, style B of MIL-C-44296. 3-3.4 Elastic webbinq. The elastic webbing for the rear adjust

22、ment straps shall be 1-1/8 inches wide in black for class 1 vest and white for the class 2 vest. The webbing conform to class 1 of MIL-W-5664 except for the width requirement. 3.3.5 Tape. The tape for the breakline of the lapel and v, the shall for reinforcing the folded edge of the pocket welt shal

23、l be cotton, 1/4 inch wide, conforming to type III, class 2 of A-A-52071. The color shall be white or natural shade. 4 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-NIL-DTL-289366 9999906 2053535 55b MIL-DTL-28 93 6B (MC) 3.3.6 Fastener tape. The f

24、astener tape (velcro) for closing the neck straps shall be red No. 3852 for class 1 and white No. 3054 for class 2, 1/2 inch wide, cut 4-1/2 to 4-3/4 inches long and conform to type I, class 1 of A-A-55126. 3.3.7 Thread. The thread for the class 1 vest shall be silk for machine sewing conforming to

25、type I, ticket No. A, 3 ply of A-A-50196 and cotton, mercerized finish ticket No. A, 3 ply conforming to type III of A-A-52094 for inside seaming and stitching. The color shall be scarlet, shade W, Cable No. 66040. The thread for the class 2 vest shall be cotton soft finish, white (bleached), ticket

26、 No. 40, 3 ply conforming to A-A-52094 (see DoD Standard Color Card of Official Standardized Shades for Sewing Threads 1968). 3.3.8 Gimp. The buttonhole gimp shall be cotton, scarlet shade for class 1 and white for class 2, ticket No. 8, soft or glazed finish, conforming to type I or type II of A-A-

27、50198. 3.3.9 Buttons. The buttons shall be metal, gold plated, 22-line, regular shank, conforming to type I, style 4, class A of MIL-DTL-3461. Each button will be attached to the vest using a ring fastener or toggle (see DoD Standard Shades for Buttons 1966). 3.3.10 Hardware. The buckle and slides s

28、hall be made of brass or bronze, nickel plated, and shall conform to the design and dimensions shown on Figure 1. 3.3-11 Label. Each vest shall be provided with an identification label conforming to type VI, class 1 of DDD-L-SO. The content and format shall be as follows: Nomenclature: Name of contr

29、actor: Wool Products Act information 3.4. Desiqn. The vest shall be the U.S. Marine Corps design shown on Figure 1, a backless style with adjusting rear waist straps of elastic, worked eyelets for detachable buttons on the right front and matching buttonholes on left front, two hanging pockets with

30、welts, shawl type lapel and adjustable neck strap. 3.5. Patterns. A standard pattern will be furnished to the contractor by the Government. The pattern will not be altered in 5 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-289366 1 2 3 MIL-

31、DTL-28936B (MC) Material: Basic Front 2 Front facing 2 Pocket welt 2 Material: Interlining (fusible) any manner and shall be used as a guide in cutting the working patterns. The standard pattern provides for a 1/4 inch allowance for all seams and are marked and notched for cutting, placement and ass

32、embly of component parts. 7 8 9 3.5.1 List of pattern parts. The vests shall be cut from the specified materials in accordance with the pattern parts as f 01 lows : Eyelet reinforcement 1 Eyelet opening, bearer 1 Pockets 4 4 5 6 Front Facing Pocket welt 2 2 2 I IMaterial: Rayon lining I 3.6. Constru

33、ction 3.6.1 Manufacturins requirements. The vests shall be manufactured in accordance with the operations and the stitch, seam and stitching type specified in Table I. The contractor is not required to follow the exact sequence of the operations as listed in Table I, but all operations specified sha

34、ll be used in the manufacturing of the vests. 3.6.1.1. Stitches, seams and stitchinas. The stitch, seam and stitching types specified in Table I shall conform to FED-STD-751. Table I indicate the minimum and maximum number permitted. The number of stitches per inch as specified in 4 3.6.1.2. Tackins

35、 and backstitchinq. Ends of seams and stitching produced with 301 type stitch, when not caught in other seams or stitchings, shall be backtacked not less than 1/4 inch; thread breaks (all stitch types) shall be secured by stitching back of break not less than 1/2 inch. 6 Provided by IHSNot for Resal

36、eNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-NO HIL-DTL-2893bB = 999990h 2053537 329 H MIL-DTL-28 93 6B (MC) TABLE I. Manufacturing requirements. OPERAT I ON :ut tinq. a. Cut vest in strict accordance qith patterns furnished. 3. Cut all materials in the iirection indicated b

37、y the iirectional lines on the patterns. z. Cut all component parts of the rest from one piece of material Except the eyelet reinforcement pieces and pocket stays may be cut ?rom ends. d. Cut the elastic webbing 24 inches long. e. Cut the velcro fastening tape 4-1/2 to 5 inches long. f. The use of d

38、rill holes is prohibited. Replacement of damaaed parts. a. Replace at time of cutting any part damaged, such as holes, or seriously weakening defects such as smashes, multiple floats, and slubs likely to develop into holes. b. Replace any part damaged during the manufacturing process by needle chews

39、, which may develop into a hole, scissors or knife cuts, tears, holes, mends or burns. Shade markinq. a. Mark or ticket component parts cut from basic material in order to ensure proper assembly and a uniform shade throughout. b. Adhesive tickets, when used shall be adhered to the inside. Make welt.

40、 Finished appearance. The welt shall be uniformly made and stitched, and shall finish smooth and flat without twists, puckers or pleats. STCH TYPE SEAM/ STCH TYPE i.TCH/IN NDL BOB/ LPR 7 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- MIL-DTL-289366

41、 W 9999906 2051538 265 t TABLE I. MIL-DTL-28936B (MC) Manufacturinq remir OPERATION Make welt. (contd) a. The welt shall be made of a single ply of basic material, with fusible, folded in half lengthwise and reinforced at the inside with 1/4 inch wide cotton tape. b. Position the tape lengthwise on

42、the welt piece with one edge even with the fold notch and seam 1/16 inch from the inside edge. c. Fold the welt lengthwise to the outside and close the end of the welt with a 1/4 inch seam. Trim the corners for turning. d. Turn the welt to the right side completely working out the seamed edges and c

43、orners. Top stitch the welt uniformly 1/16 inch from the seamed and folded edges. finished vest, the welt shall finish with the reinforcement tape stitched to the welt. In the Make fronts. a. Position the left and right front interlining on the underside of the respective vest front and fuse. b. Pos

44、ition facing rayon eyelet reinforcement piece on the inside of right front with front bottom edges even. Stitch the plies together 1/8 inch from bottom and front edges. c. Position a 1 inch wide by 6 inch long strip of fusible material on the upper back edge of lining covering the raw edges and fuse

45、. Set welt and hanuina Docket. Finished appearance. The welt and hanging pocket shall be set to the fronts smooth and flat without twists, gathers, puckers, raw edges or distortion. STCH TYPE 301 301 301 301 nents - Continued. SEAM/ STCH TYPE SSaa-1 SSe-2 (a) SSe-2 (b) OSf-1 (fold) SSa-1 STCH/IIi 10

46、-14 10-14 10-14 10-14 NDL 40 40 40 40 BOB/ LPR 40 40 40 40 I 8 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-2893bB = 99999Clb 2253539 LTL NO 6 MIL-DTL-28936B (MC) TABLE I. Manufacturinq OPERATION jet welt and hanaina pocket. (cont dl i. Ma

47、rk the fronts for the ositioning of the pockets in accordance with marks on the ?attern. Mark the welt 12 1/8 inch from the folded edge for ?roper seaming to fronts. 2. Position the welt on the utside of the front with the ?ocket stay on the underside and Iiith the mark on the welt and front natchin

48、g . z. Seam the welt to the front at the mark through the stay piece. A. Position one piece of pocket Eabric on the outside of the front riith one edge placed under the welt and abutting the welt seam. Seam the pocket through the pocket stay 3/8 inch from the raw edge of the pocket. e. Cut the pocke

49、t opening midway between the seams and tongue notch each end of the opening. The cutting of the opening shall not extend beyond the ends of the welt. f. Turn the pocket and the raw edge of the welt through the opening with the folded edge of the welt toward the top of the front. g. Position the other piece of pocket on the inside of front, even with the raw edge of welt. Seam together 3/8 inch from raw edge. h.