NAVY MIL-DTL-21083 E-1997 COAT MAN-S - SERVICE OFFICER-S USMC《美国海军陆战队官员男士服务衣服》.pdf

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1、MIL-DTL-23083E 9999906 2053420 344 INCH-POUND MIL-DTL-2108 3E (MC) 28 Julv 1997 SUPERSEDING MIL-C-21083D (MC) 22 February 1995 DETAIL SPECIFICATION COAT, MANS - SERVICE, OFFICERS, USMC This specification is approved for use by U.S. Marine Corps, Department of the Navy, and is available for use by al

2、l Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense. 1. SCOPE 1.1. Scope. This specification covers requirements for officers service coats, with belt. 1.2. Classification. The coats will be of one type in the following sizes, as specified (see 6.2): Beneficial comments (recommendations, additio

3、ns, deletions) and any pertinent data which may be of use in improving this document should be addressed to the Commander (PCE-D), Marine Corps Systems Command, Quantico, VA 22134-5010 by using the Standardization Document Improvement Proposal (DD Form 1426) appearing at the end of this document or

4、by letter. AMSC N/A FSC 8405 DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited. Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- MIL-DTL-2LO83E 0b 205L42L 080 W MIL-DTL-2 108 3E (MC) Schedule of sizes Short Reqular Lonq

5、 Extra Lonq 36 38 40 42 1.3. Individual order. individual order, this detail requirements of 36 36 36 38 38 38 40 40 40 42 42 42 44 44 44 46 4 6. When costs are custom tailored to an specification will govern, except the Section 3, Table I, may be modified to the extend necessary for good custom tai

6、loring practice. 2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS 2.1. General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3 and 4 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. While e

7、very effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements documents cited in sections 3 and 4 of this specification, whether or not they are listed. 2.2. Government documents. 2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and ha

8、ndbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those listed in the issue of the Department of Defense Index of Specifications and Standards (DoDISS) and supplem

9、ent thereto, cited in the solicitation (see 6.2). SPECIFICATIONS FEDERAL A-A-50067 - Cloth, Flannel, Wool, A-A-50186 - Cloth, Buckram, Woven A-A-50196 - Thread, Silk A-A-50198 - Thread, Gimp, Cotton, Under Collar Cloth and Nonwoven Buttonhole 2 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or network

10、ing permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-2LO3E 9999906 2053422 TI7 H A-A-50199 - A-A-52071 - A-A-52094 - A-A-52106 - DDD-L-20 - V-B-871 - V-T-295 - MIL-DTL-2108 3E (MC) Thread, Polyester, Core, Cotton or Polyester Covered Tape, Textile, Cotton, General Purpose (Unbleached, Bleached or Dyed

11、) Thread, Cotton Cloth, Twill or Plain Weave, Polyester and Polyester Blend Label: For Clothing, Equipage and Tentage (General Use) Button, Sewing Hole, and Button, Staple, (Plastic) Thread, Nylon DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE I MIL-C-368 - MIL-B-371 - MIL-F-4 95 - MIL-DTL-3461- MIL-C-10176 - MIL-P-15064 -

12、MIL-C-15065 - MIL-B-20289 - Cloth, Satin, Rayon and Cloth, Twill, Rayon Braid, Textile, Tubular Finish, Chemical, Black, For Copper Alloys Button, Insignia, Metal, Uniform and Cap Cloth, Gabardine: Wool, Polyester and Wool Pads, Shoulder and Sleeve-Head Coat Fronts Button, Insignia, Plastic STANDARD

13、S FEDERAL FED-STD-191 - Textile, Test Methods FED-STD-751 - Stitches, Seams and Stitchings DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE MIL-STD-1490 - Provisions for Evaluating Quality of Coats, Mens Dress (Unless otherwise indicated, copies of the above specifications, standards, handbooks are available from the Standard

14、ization Document Order Desk, 700 Robbins Avenue, Building 4D, Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094. ) 2.3. Non-Government publications. The following document(s) form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of the documents which are DoD adopted are thos

15、e listed in the issue of the DoDISS cited in the solicitation. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of 3 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-2L083E 999990b 2053423 953 D * MIL-DTL-21083E (MC) documents not listed in the DoDISS a

16、re the issues of the documents cited in the solicitation (see 6.2). Department of Defense (DoD) Standard Color Card of Official Standardized Shades for Sewing Threads 1968 Department of Defense (DoD) Standard Shades for Buttons 1966 (Application for copies should be addressed to the Color Associatio

17、n of the United States, 409 W. 44th Street, New York, NY 10016-0927). 2.4. Order of Precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a speci

18、fic exemption has been obtained. Nothing in this document, 3. REQUIREMENTS 3.1. Standard sample. Standard samples are furnished solely for guidance and information to the contractor (see 6.3). Variation from the specification may appear in the sample, in which case the specification shall govern. 3.

19、2. First article. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection in accordance with 4.3. 3.3. Materials. 3.3.1 Basic material. The basic material shall be cloth, polyester/wool gabardine, green, shade 2212 (see 6.3), conforming to type II, class 12 of MIL-C-10176.

20、3.3.2 Lininq. The material for lining fronts, sleeves, yoke, and vent, making the belt fastener, and facing the inside breast pocket shall be cloth, rayon, twill, green, shade 2209 (see 6.31, 3.7 ounce, conforming to class 1 of MIL-C-368. 3.3.3 Twill, polyester and cotton. The material for lining th

21、e upper and lower patch pockets, inside breast pocket, pocket stays, shoulder straps and stays for shoulder and armhole seams shall be cloth, twill, polyester and cotton conforming to class 1 of A-A-52106, except the requirements for non-fibrous material 4 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproductio

22、n or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-2108 3E (MC) and seam efficiency shall not apply. See 3.3.3.1 for alternate fusible interlining. The color shall be black. 3.3.3.1. Fusible interlininq. As an alternate, fusible interlining may be used for the facings, collar, flaps, poc

23、kets, and shoulder straps. The fusible shall be non-woven cloth, 20% nylon and 80% polyester, polyamide paste dot, 1.25 to 1.75 ounce per square yard. The color shall be black or charcoal. The Pellon style 8313 or equal may be used. Fusing conditions shall be as follows or as directed by the supplie

24、r: Temperature - 280-290F, 140-145C Time - 12-15 seconds Pressure - 4-6 pounds per square inch 3.3.4 Under collar cloth. The under collar cloth shall be wool flannel conforming to A-A-50067. The color of the cloth shall be green of an approved shade to closely match the basic material. The acidity (

25、ph) requirement and colorfastness to perspiration and crocking requirements shall not apply. 3.3.5 Sword slit patch. material specified in 3.3.4. The sword slit patch shall be made of 3.3.6 Sword slit buttonhole tab. The sword slit buttonhole tab shall be made of one ply of the basic material and on

26、e ply of the rayon lining material. 3.3.7 Bias bindinq. back edge of facing, armhole shield, bottom turnup and the raw edge of seam allowances shall be bias cut out of the lining material specified in 3.3.2. inch wide and shall have sized edges. The binding for the upper edge of pockets, The binding

27、 shall be 5/8 to 7/8 3.3.8 Collar and belt interlininq. The material for interlining the collar and belt shall be cloth, buckram, cotton, natural color, conforming to type I of A-A-50186 except that the test for shrinkage shall be in accordance with method 5580 of FED-STD-191. 3.3.9 Shoulder pads. c

28、lass 2 of MIL-P-15064. The shoulder pads shall conform to type I, 3.3.10 Sleeve-head pad. type IV of MIL-P-15064. The sleeve-head pad shall conform to 5 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-2LOB3E %99990b 2053425 72b D MIL-DTL-2 1

29、O 83E (MC) 3.3.11 Coat fronts. The coat fronts shall conform to type IX of MIL-C-15065, except that the cotton warp, hair-wool filling cloth and stays shall be dyed black. The dyed cloth shall show fair fastness to wet (dry) cleaning only. The dyeing of the cotton warp, hair-wool filling cloth shall

30、 be accomplished with a selected direct dye and the dyed cloth shall be after treated, preferably with copper sulfate to meet the requirements specified herein. The dyed cotton warp, hair-wool filling cloth shall show fastness to wet (dry) cleaning, perspiration and steam pressing equal to or better

31、 than the standard sample. When no standard is available or has not been established, the dyed cotton warp, hair-wool filling cloth shall show good fastness to wet (dry) cleaning, perspiration and steam pressing. As an alternative, the coat front and center back vent may be fused using a woven cloth

32、 fusible conforming to the following requirements: Description - Twill weave woven front fusible interlining Warp - 100% cotton/polyester and rayon/polyester, Filling - 75-90% rayon; 10-25% wool/polyester Weight - Min 3 to 4 oz max Color - Black or charcoal gray Coating - Polyamide dot/double dot me

33、sh acrylic and cotton The fusible shall be Kufner style B893, Lainiere de Picardie style 3960/184 or equal. Fusible Condition Temperature - 300-310F - 150-15SCE Time - 12-15 Seconds Pressure - 4-5 PSI . *Chest Canvas of the Floatinq Chest Piece Description - Twill weave woven chest canvas Warp - 100

34、% cotton Fill - 20-35% animal hair; 65-80% rayon Weight - Min 6 oz; max 8.5 oz *Kufner style 473 and Lainiere de Picardie style 8854 or equal. Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-RIL-DTL-ZL083E 999990b 205L42b bb2 = MIL-DTL-21083E (MC) Ha

35、ir cloth Description - Haircloth shoulder piece Same as in MIL-C-15065H (29 December 1986) para. 3.2.2 Flannel or felt Description - Flannel/felt chest piece Same as in MIL-C-15065H (29 December 1986) para 3.2.4 (1) and (2) 3.3.12 Tape. The tapes shall be cotton conforming to A-A-52071 as follows. T

36、he requirement for non-fibrous material shall not apply. 3.3.12.1.Stay tape. class 2 of A-A-52071, 3/8 inch side for the front edges of coats and 1/4 inch wide for the armholes, back vent and waist seam. The stay tape shall conform to type II, 3.3.12.2.Bridle tape. shall be 5/8 inch wide, conforming

37、 to type I, class 1 of The bridle tape for the breakline of lapel A-A-52071. 3.3.13 Hanqer braid. cotton or rayon tubular flat braid 1/8 to 3/16 inch wide, minimum breaking strength 50 pounds, color black conforming to type IX, class 1 of MIL-B-371. The braid for the coat hanger shall be 3.3.14 Thre

38、ad 3.3.14.1.Cotton thread. The cotton thread shall conform to A-A-52094 in the following types and sizes. 7 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIl-DTL-2LOl$3E = 999990b 2053427 5T% MIL-DTL-21083E (MC) Use Type Ticket No. Ply Seaming of c

39、oat; making buttonhole III A 3 in belt and belt fastener; making belt loops; bartacking ends of belt keeper. sleeve-head pads. Tacking armholes and attaching I 30 3 Button sewing. I or II 24 4 As an alternate to the cotton thread, a polyester, cotton-covered thread conforming to A-A-50199 ticket No.

40、 70, 2-ply may be used. commercial grade cotton. Nylon or cotton 0/2 may be used for the blind stitching/ felling operation as an alternate. The thread for basting shall be good 3.3.14.2.Silk thread. The silk thread for machine sewing shall conform to A-A-50196 as follows, except that the requiremen

41、ts for extractable matter shall not apply for the type III thread. Use Type Ticket No. Ply Topstitching of coat and belt, and I A 3 Making buttonholes in coat. I B and F 3 bartacking belt fastener to belt. Bartacking. Hand felling. I III B C 3 2 Hand or duplicated felling of lining III C 2 (armhole

42、sleeve lining). Machine felling. I O 3 3.3.14.3.Nlon thread. conform to type III, size O0 of V-T-295. The nylon thread for padding lapels shall 3.3.14.4.Synthetic thread. The monofilament synthetic thread may be used for those basting operations where the thread is required to be removed, provided t

43、he garment is subsequently given a treatment of a dry cleaning agent in which the synthetic thread is soluble. When this thread is used, any residue remaining on the garment after the dry cleaning process shall be brushed off or removed. . 8 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking

44、 permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-21083E 9999906 2053428 La35 m MIL-DTL-21083E (MC) 3.3.14.5.Color and colorfastness. T-1, cable No. 66023, except cotton thread for basting and for machine tacking armholes may be white. The dyed thread shall show fastness to light and wet (dry) cleanin

45、g, equal to or better than the standard sample. When no sample is available, the dyed thread shall show good fastness to light and wet (dry) cleaning. The thread for seaming lining need show fastness to wet (dry) cleaning only (see DoD Standard Color Card of Official Standardized Shades for Sewing T

46、hreads 1968). The thread shall be dyed shade 3.3.15 Gimp. The buttonhole gimp shall be cotton, ticket No. 8 soft or glazed finish, conforming to A-A-50198. The color of the gimp shall be shade T-1, cable No. 66023. The dyed gimp shall show fastness to wet (dry) cleaning equal to or better than the s

47、tandard sample. When no standard sample is available, the dyed gimp shall show fastness to wet (dry) cleaning equal to or better than the standard sample. When no sample is available, the dyed gimp shall show good fastness to wet (dry) cleaning. 3.3.16 Buttons 3.3.16.1.Insiqnia buttons. The insignia

48、 buttons shall conform to type I, 40-line, and type II, 27-line, black finish, conforming to MIL-B-20289. As an alternate, insignia buttons conforming to type I, style 3, class B, subclass 1 of MIL-DTL-3461 may be used. A dull black epoxy finish in lieu of dull black enamel finish is acceptable with

49、 prior approval. 3.3.16.2.Sewinq hole buttons. The sewing hole buttons shall be melamine formaldehyde composition, glossy finish conforming to type II, class D, style 20, 34-line, and style 4, 22-line of V-B-871. The color of the buttons shall be green, cable No. 62017 (see DoD Standard Shades for Buttons 1966). 3.3.17 Fastener, snap. The snap fastener for the belt shall be brass, black japanned finished, or bla