EN 568-2015 en Mountaineering equipment - Ice anchors - Safety requirements and test methods《登山设备 冰锚 安全要求和测试方法》.pdf

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1、BSI Standards PublicationBS EN 568:2015Mountaineering equipment Ice anchors Safetyrequirements and test methodsBS EN 568:2015 BRITISH STANDARDNational forewordThis British Standard is the UK implementation of EN 568:2015.It supersedes BS EN 568:2007 which is withdrawn.The UK participation in its pre

2、paration was entrusted to TechnicalCommittee SW/136/5, Sports, Playground and other RecreationalEquipment - Mountaineering Equipment.A list of organizations represented on this committee can beobtained on request to its secretary.This publication does not purport to include all the necessaryprovisio

3、ns of a contract. Users are responsible for its correctapplication. The British Standards Institution 2015.Published by BSI Standards Limited 2015ISBN 978 0 580 86286 1ICS 97.220.40Compliance with a British Standard cannot confer immunity fromlegal obligations.This British Standard was published und

4、er the authority of theStandards Policy and Strategy Committee on 30 November 2015.Amendments/corrigenda issued since publicationDate T e x t a f f e c t e dBS EN 568:2015EUROPEAN STANDARD NORME EUROPENNE EUROPISCHE NORM EN 568 November 2015 ICS 97.220.40 Supersedes EN 568:2007English Version Mounta

5、ineering equipment - Ice anchors - Safety requirements and test methods quipement dalpinisme et descalade - Broches glace - Exigences de scurit et mthodes dessai Bergsteigerausrstung - Verankerungsmittel im Eis - Sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und Prfverfahren This European Standard was approve

6、d by CEN on 26 September 2015. CEN members are bound to comply with the CEN/CENELEC Internal Regulations which stipulate the conditions for giving this European Standard the status of a national standard without any alteration. Up-to-date lists and bibliographical references concerning such national

7、 standards may be obtained on application to the CEN-CENELEC Management Centre or to any CEN member. This European Standard exists in three official versions (English, French, German). A version in any other language made by translation under the responsibility of a CEN member into its own language

8、and notified to the CEN-CENELEC Management Centre has the same status as the official versions. CEN members are the national standards bodies of Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Croatia, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia, France, Germany, Greece, Hun

9、gary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Romania, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Turkey andUnited Kingdom. EUROPEAN COMMITTEE FOR STANDARDIZATION COMIT EUROPEN DE NORMALISATION EUROPISCHES KOMITEE FR NORMUNG CEN-CENE

10、LEC Management Centre: Avenue Marnix 17, B-1000 Brussels 2015 CEN All rights of exploitation in any form and by any means reserved worldwide for CEN national Members. Ref. No. EN 568:2015 EBS EN 568:2015EN 568:2015 (E) 2 Contents Page European foreword . 3 Introduction 4 1 Scope 5 2 Normative refere

11、nces 5 3 Terms and definitions . 5 4 Safety requirements . 5 4.1 Design 5 4.2 Resistance to hammering of ice pitons 6 4.3 Screwability of the ice screws . 6 4.4 Holding strength 6 4.4.1 Holding strength in the radial direction . 6 4.4.2 Holding strength in the axial direction . 6 5 Test methods 7 5.

12、1 Examination of design . 7 5.2 Determination of screwability of the ice screws and resistance to fracture and holding force of ice anchors 7 5.2.1 Test samples . 7 5.2.2 Apparatus . 7 5.2.3 Preparation of the test block 8 5.2.4 Procedure. 9 6 Marking 11 7 Information supplied by the manufacturer 12

13、 Annex A (informative) Standards on mountaineering equipment . 13 Annex ZA (informative) Relationship between this European Standard and the Essential Requirements of EU Directive 89/686/EEC 14 Bibliography . 15 BS EN 568:2015EN 568:2015 (E) 3 European foreword This document (EN 568:2015) has been p

14、repared by Technical Committee CEN/TC 136 “Sports, playground and other recreational facilities and equipment”, the secretariat of which is held by DIN. This European Standard shall be given the status of a national standard, either by publication of an identical text or by endorsement, at the lates

15、t by May 2016, and conflicting national standards shall be withdrawn at the latest by May 2016. Attention is drawn to the possibility that some of the elements of this document may be the subject of patent rights. CEN and/or CENELEC shall not be held responsible for identifying any or all such paten

16、t rights. This document has been prepared under a mandate given to CEN by the European Commission and the European Free Trade Association, and supports essential requirements of EU Directive(s). For relationship with EU Directive, see informative Annex ZA, which is an integral part of this document.

17、 This document supersedes EN 568:2007. In comparison with the previous edition, the following major changes were made: a) now included: the option of using cellular concrete in holding strength test instead of ice type 2; b) clarification of figures. According to the CEN/CENELEC Internal Regulations

18、, the national standards organizations of the following countries are bound to implement this European Standard: Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Croatia, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, L

19、atvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Romania, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Turkey and the United Kingdom. BS EN 568:2015EN 568:2015 (E) 4 Introduction The text of this European Standard is based on the former UIAA-Standard Q “ice anchors“ (Un

20、ion Internationale des Associations dAlpinisme), which has been developed with international participation. This European Standard is one of a package of standards for mountaineering equipment (see Annex A). BS EN 568:2015EN 568:2015 (E) 5 1 Scope This European Standard specifies safety requirements

21、 and test methods for ice anchors, i.e. ice screws and ice pitons for use in mountaineering including climbing. 2 Normative references The following documents, in whole or in part, are normatively referenced in this document and are indispensable for its application. For dated references, only the e

22、dition cited applies. For undated references, the latest edition of the referenced document (including any amendments) applies. EN 566, Mountaineering equipment Slings Safety requirements and test methods 3 Terms and definitions For the purposes of this document, the following terms and definitions

23、apply. 3.1 ice anchor general term for ice screws and ice pitons 3.2 ice screw anchor which is screwed into the ice and is screwed out again after use 3.3 ice piton anchor which is hammered into the ice and is removed again after use 3.4 placement length l length of the anchor from its end to the pa

24、rt of the eye/connector hole intended to be in contact with the ice after it has been screwed or hammered in Note 1 to entry: See Figure 1. Figure 1 Placement length, l 4 Safety requirements 4.1 Design 4.1.1 Ice screws shall consist of a cylindrical or semi-cylindrical hollow body with thread. At th

25、e screw head, there is an eye into which a connector can be clipped. Ice pitons shall consist of a cylindrical or semi-cylindrical hollow body and have an eye into which a connector can be clipped. BS EN 568:2015EN 568:2015 (E) 6 4.1.2 The head and the eye shall be free from burr and sharp edges. Th

26、e internal edges of the eye shall be rounded with a radius larger than 0,2 mm or have a chamfer larger than 0,2 mm 45. See a) in Figure 2. Dimensions in millimetres a) b) Figure 2 Attachment point eye dimensions 4.1.3 When tested according to 5.1, the eye shall have an internal diameter of at least

27、15 mm. See b) in Figure 2. 4.2 Resistance to hammering of ice pitons When tested in accordance with 5.2.4.1, ice pitons shall not show any deformation likely to affect safety, e.g. cracks or separation of components. The impact area of the head shall remain sufficiently intact so as to allow further

28、 hammering. NOTE Deformation due to hammering, as occurs with chisels, is not considered detrimental. If the ice anchor has a sling for attachment, which is removable without tools, the sling shall conform to EN 566. 4.3 Screwability of the ice screws When tested in accordance with 5.2.4.2 after a m

29、aximum of 10 full rotations of the ice screw the penetration of the following rotation shall be equal to the pitch of the thread of the ice screw. 4.4 Holding strength 4.4.1 Holding strength in the radial direction When tested in accordance with 5.2.4.3.1, anchors shall withstand a force of at least

30、 10 kN in the radial direction, without being pulled out of the ice or breaking. Permanent deformation during the test is permitted. 4.4.2 Holding strength in the axial direction When tested in the axial direction in accordance with 5.2.4.3.2, ice anchors shall withstand a force of at least 5 kN wit

31、hout the hanger breaking or becoming detached. All test samples shall meet the requirement. BS EN 568:2015EN 568:2015 (E) 7 5 Test methods 5.1 Examination of design Test the requirements specified in 4.1 by tactile and visual examination and measurement. 5.2 Determination of screwability of the ice

32、screws and resistance to fracture and holding force of ice anchors 5.2.1 Test samples Carry out the test on four ice screws or four ice pitons according to Table 1. Table 1 Number of test samples Type of ice anchor Number of samples for testing according to 5.2.4.1 5.2.4.2 5.2.4.3.1 5.2.4.3.2 Ice pi

33、ton 1 (largest length)b0 3 (shortest length)b0 Ice screw 0 1a3 (shortest length)b1 aAfter being tested according to 5.2.4.2, the ice screw is used for the test according to 5.2.4.3.2. bIf anchors of different length, but otherwise same design, are available. 5.2.2 Apparatus 5.2.2.1 Ice blocks. 5.2.2

34、.2 Steel ice container of the following dimensions: minimum length 350 mm minimum width 220 mm minimum depth 330 mm internal dimensions minimum wall thickness 6 mm The base of the ice container shall be rigid so that it does not influence the test results. 5.2.2.3 A vertically guided falling body of

35、 mass (10 0,02) kg with a flat impact area of 30 mm ( 10) mm diameter of hardness, HV (40) = (800 10) %. 5.2.2.4 A device as shown in Figure 3 to hold a shaft at right angles to the ice surface, the lower end of the shaft having a clamping mechanism for an ice screw, which holds the screw concentric

36、ally. A lever is fitted to the top of the shaft for screwing in the ice screw. BS EN 568:2015EN 568:2015 (E) 8 Key 1 rotary shaft 2 guide 3 radial clamp 4 ice Figure 3 Device for testing the screwability of ice screws 5.2.3 Preparation of the test block 5.2.3.1 Type 1: Fill the ice container with po

37、table water and store it at ( 10 1) C for at least 20 h. Smooth off any uneven surface of the ice. 5.2.3.2 Type 2: Fill the ice container alternately 50 mm deep with layers of ice grains with a maximum diameter of 10 mm and 250 ml of cold potable water and store it at ( 8 2) C, for at least 20 h. Wh

38、en the ice container is full, load the ice for (5 0,5) min with a steel plate of mass (100 2) kg, the clearance between the steel plate and the side walls of the container not exceeding 10 mm. The ice block shall be used immediately for testing according to 5.2.4.3.1. The block of ice type 2 can be

39、alternatively replaced by a block of cellular concrete with following characteristics: Material: cellular concrete Density: 500 kg/m3( 50) kg/m3 Compressive strength: 4 MPa 0,25 MPa Minimum dimensions: Width: 200 mm, Height: 400 mm, Depth: 250 mm BS EN 568:2015EN 568:2015 (E) 9 High, low, left and r

40、ight faces have to be held with metal plates to avoid cracks The temperature treatment for the test has to be analogue to ice type 2 5.2.4 Procedure 5.2.4.1 Determination of resistance of ice pitons when hammered in Carry out the test at ( 10 3) C. Drive the ice piton into an ice block of type 1, us

41、ing a vertically guided falling body. Ensure that the ice surface is horizontal and that the ice piton is within 1 of vertical before the first drop. For the first impact, fix the drop height at (375 5) mm above the impact surface of the ice piton. For each successive impact, increase the drop heigh

42、t by the amount the piton has penetrated the ice. Hammer in the ice piton until the lower edge of the eye is in contact with the surface of the ice. Repeat the procedure, inserting and pulling out the piton slowly from the ice 100 times, without removing the ice core between the individual placement

43、s. The piton may be placed in the same ice block several times, providing the placements are at least 75 mm apart from each other and from the edges. 5.2.4.2 Determination of screwability of ice screws Fix the ice screw concentrically to the shaft of the holding device by means of the clamp. Store t

44、he ice screw and test device at ( 10 1) C for a minimum of 4 h. Place the ice screw on the surface of a type 1 ice block and adjust the holding device to keep the ice screw at right angle to the ice surface. Screw in the ice screw with a continuous contact force of (120 3) N. After a maximum of 10 t

45、urns check that the requirements specified in 4.3 are met. Complete the test within 5 min of removal from the conditioning atmosphere. 5.2.4.3 Determination of holding strength of ice anchors 5.2.4.3.1 Testing in radial direction Testing shall be carried out at a room temperature of (23 5) C. Insert

46、 the ice anchor as specified in the information supplied by the manufacturer, in the middle of the surface of a type 2 ice container prepared as described in 5.2.3.2 at an angle of (90 5). If the ice block is used smooth the ice surface around the anchor and store the ice block and test sample at (

47、18 1) C for 20 h. Apply a load by means of a (10 0,1) mm steel bar placed in the eye of the hanger of the ice anchor, as specified in the information supplied by the manufacturer, parallel to the ice surface (see Figure 4), at a rate of (100 10) mm/s until the ice anchor fails or is pulled out of th

48、e ice block or cellular concrete block. Complete the test within 3 min of removal from the conditioning atmosphere. BS EN 568:2015EN 568:2015 (E) 10 Figure 4 Test for the holding force 5.2.4.3.2 Testing in axial direction Testing shall be carried out at a room temperature of (23 5) C. Clamp the test

49、 sample in shaped metal jaws as shown in the left side of Figure 5. The edge of the jaws shall be (25 1) mm from the part of the ice anchor hanger that touches the ice when fully inserted. Ensure that the body of the test sample is held rigidly without deformation that could affect the attachment of the hanger to the body of the test sample. If necessary, an internal support may be used but this support shall not extend to within 25 mm of the outer edge of the jaw. Where the edge o