SANS 10101-2008 Standard nomenclature for stitches seams and stitchings《针缝、接缝及缝纫的标准名称》.pdf

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1、 Collection of SANS standards in electronic format (PDF) 1. Copyright This standard is available to staff members of companies that have subscribed to the complete collection of SANS standards in accordance with a formal copyright agreement. This document may reside on a CENTRAL FILE SERVER or INTRA

2、NET SYSTEM only. Unless specific permission has been granted, this document MAY NOT be sent or given to staff members from other companies or organizations. Doing so would constitute a VIOLATION of SABS copyright rules. 2. Indemnity The South African Bureau of Standards accepts no liability for any

3、damage whatsoever than may result from the use of this material or the information contain therein, irrespective of the cause and quantum thereof. ISBN 978-0-626-21878-2 SANS 10101:2008Edition 1.1Any reference to SABS 0101 is deemedto be a reference to this standard(Government Notice No. 1373 of 8 N

4、ovember 2002)SOUTH AFRICAN NATIONAL STANDARD Standard nomenclature for stitches, seams, and stitchings Published by SABS Standards Division 1 Dr Lategan Road Groenkloof Private Bag X191 Pretoria 0001Tel: +27 12 428 7911 Fax: +27 12 344 1568 www.sabs.co.za SABS SANS 10101:2008 Edition 1.1 Table of ch

5、anges Change No. Date Scope Amdt 1 2008 Amended to change the designation of SABS standards to SANS standards, with no technical changes. Acknowledgement The SABS Standards Division wishes to acknowledge the valuable assistance derived from publications of the following organizations: British Standa

6、rds Institution Canadian Government Specifications Board United States Federal Standards Administration Foreword This South African standard was approved by National Committee SABS SC 1005A, Clothing and make-up articles Clothing, in accordance with procedures of the SABS Standards Division, in comp

7、liance with annex 3 of the WTO/TBT agreement. This document was published in September 2008. This document supersedes SABS 0101:1968 (first edition). Preface This South African standard has been based on the United States Federal Standard 751a and the Canadian Government Specifications Board Specifi

8、cation 54-GP-1, and although the code differs from these in arrangement it is intended to be identical in content and nomenclature with these two standards. The valuable assistance given by the Federal and the Canadian authorities is gratefully acknowledged. The interest already exhibited by the Bri

9、tish Standards Institute, the Netherlands Standards Institute, and the French Standards Association is appreciated. Members of the technical committee appointed by the Council of the South African Bureau of Standards to prepare this code agreed that, although it had been decided to adopt the America

10、n designation system, the basic elements of the French standard for stitches also should be given in the code. The French standard designations for stitches and the corresponding standard stitch types designations laid down in the code are therefore given in appendix B. SANS 10101:2008 Edition 1.1 1

11、 Contents Page Acknowledgement Foreword Preface 1 Scope . 3 2 Definitions 3 3 Classification 3 4 Designations 5 5 Details of types . 6 5.1 General 6 5.2 Stitch types 6 5.3 Seam types 31 5.4 Stitching types . 62 6 Index of stitches, seams, and stitchings . 68 6.1 Stitches 68 6.2 Seams . 70 6.3 Stitch

12、ings . 74 6.4 Schematic index 75 Appedix A Guide for use of stitches, seams, and stitchings . 85 Appendix B French standard NF G 05-002 92 SANS 10101:2008 Edition 1.1 2 This page is intentionally left blank SANS 10101:2008 Edition 1.1 3 Standard nomenclature for stitches, seams, and stitchings 1 Sco

13、pe 1.1 This code covers various kinds of stitches, seams, and stitchings used in the fabrication of articles by sewing. It also prescribes the standard symbols for their designation. 2 Definitions 2.1 For the purposes of this document the following definitions apply: stitch a unit of thread conforma

14、tion resulting from passing thread(s), or loop(s) of thread, into or through a material seam a joint consisting of a sequence of stitches uniting material or materials stitching a sequence of stitches for finishing an edge or for ornamental purposes or for both strip a piece, ply, or portion detache

15、d from a material, in relatively narrow width and long length; including binding, interlining, and reinforcing tape, and webbing superimposing unless otherwise indicated by the diagram or description, so laying one or more plies of material on another that the edges to be joined are in alignment 3 C

16、lassification 3.1 Stitches Stitches are divided into seven classes (see below) which are identified by the first digit of three-digit numerals. In the classes, stitch formations are indicated in terms of needle, bobbin, looper, and cover groups of threads. Each class is divided into types which are

17、identified by the second and third digits (see 4.1). a) Class 100. This class of stitch (commonly known as the single thread chain stitch class) is formed with one or with two needle threads and its general characteristic is interlooping. A loop of each thread is passed through the material and secu

18、red by inter-looping the loop with a succeeding loop or succeeding loops (that has/have been passed through the material) to form a stitch. SANS 10101:2008 Edition 1.1 4 b) Class 200. This class of stitch is formed with one or with two needle threads and its general characteristic is that each threa

19、d passes through the material as a single line of thread and the stitch is secured by the single line of thread passing in and out of the material or by interlooping a thread with itself. When two threads are used, the threads pass through the same perforations in the material. c) Class 300. This cl

20、ass of stitch (commonly known as the lock stitch class) is formed with two groups of threads and its general characteristic is the interlacing of the groups. Loops of the first group are passed through the material where they are secured by the thread of the second group to form a stitch. d) Class 4

21、00. This class of stitch (commonly known as the multi-thread chain stitch class) is formed with two groups of threads and its general characteristic is the interlacing and interlooping of the loops of the groups. Loops of the first group are passed through the material and are secured by interlacing

22、 and interlooping with loops of the second group to form a stitch. e) Class 500. This class of stitch (commonly known as the overedge or overlock class) is formed with one or more groups of threads and its general characteristic is that loops from at least one group are passed over and round the edg

23、e of the material. Loops of one group are passed through the material and are secured by (1) interlooping with themselves before succeeding loops are passed through the material, or (2) interlooping with the loops of one or more other interlooped groups of threads before succeeding loops of the firs

24、t group are again passed through the material. Combination stitches, formed with rows of stitch types from two or more different stitch classes sewn simultaneously, are included in this class. f) Class 600. This class of stitch (commonly known as the floss stitch class) is formed with two or more gr

25、oups of threads and its general characteristic is that at least one group covers each surface of the material at a raw edge. Loops of the first group are passed through loops of the third group (previously spread on the surface of the material), then through the material, and then interlooped with l

26、oops of the second group of threads on the underside of the material. The one exception to this procedure is in stitch type 601, where only two groups of threads are used and the function of the third group is performed by one of the threads in the first group. g) Class 700. This class of stitch (co

27、mmonly known as the single thread lock stitch class) is formed with a single continuous needle thread and its general characteristic is that at the penetration of the first stitch a portion of the needle thread is wound on a bobbin in the lower mechanism of the machine. The stitches are formed by in

28、terlacing the needle thread with the portion wound on the reel. The interlacing of this stitch class, except for the initial stitch, is identical to that of stitch class 300. 3.2 Seams Seams are divided into four classes, designated by two upper case letters and characterized as given below. Each cl

29、ass is divided into types (see 4.2.1). a) Class SS (Superimposed). The general characteristic of this class of seam is that the plies of material are superimposed one on another and then joined with one or more rows of stitches. b) Class LS (Lapped). The general characteristic of this class of seam

30、is that the plies of material are lapped and than joined with one or more rows of stitches. c) Class BS (Bound). The general characteristic of this class of seam is that it is formed by folding a binding strip over the edge of one or more plies of material and then joining the binding strip to the m

31、aterial with one or more rows of stitches. d) Class FS (Flat). The general characteristic of this class of seam is that it is formed by joining the abutted edges of material together in such a manner that the stitches extend across and cover (or tend to cover) the edges of the plies at the joint. SA

32、NS 10101:2008 Edition 1.1 5 3.3 Stitchings Stitchings are divided into two classes, designated by two upper case letters and characterized as given below. Each class is divided into types (see 4.3.1). a) Class OS (Ornamental). The general characteristic of this class of stitching is that a series of

33、 stitches is inserted in a material in a straight line, on a curve, or following a design. b) Class EF (Edge Finishing). The general characteristic of this class of stitching is that a series of stitches is formed at or over the edge of material (the edge being either folded or not folded) to finish

34、 the edge, or at or over a folded edge of material to join the edge to the body of the material. 4 Designations 4.1 Stitches Within each class of stitch there are one or more types, each type being designated by the last two digits of the designation. A row of stitches may be any one of the stitch t

35、ypes classified. Example: 301, 312 types 1 and 12 respectively of class 300. 4.2 Seams 4.2.1 Seam types Within each class of seam there are various types designated by one or two lower case letters added to the class designation. Example: LSa type “a“ of class LS. 4.2.2 Rows of stitches The number o

36、f rows of stitches used in forming the seams is designated by suffixing to the class and type designation an arabic numeral preceded by a hyphen. Example: LSa-2 lap seam of type “a“ made with two rows of stitches. 4.2.3 Stitch type The designation of a seam also includes the symbol for the type of s

37、titch to be used. In a seam where more than one type of stitch is used, the symbol for the type of stitch in the row nearest to the edge of the material is placed first. In the case of a two-operation seam the symbol for the stitch used in the first operation is placed first. Examples: a) 301-LSa-2

38、lap seam of type “a“ made with two rows of stitch type 301; b) 301-401-LSa-2 lap seam of type “a“ made with one row of stitch type 301 and one row of stitch type 401; and c) 401-301-SSe-2 superimposed seam of type “ e “ made by joining two plies together with stitch type 401 and then turning and sti

39、tching down with stitch type 301. SANS 10101:2008 Edition 1.1 6 4.3 Stitchings 4.3.1 Stitching type Within each class of stitching there are various types designated by adding one or two lower case letters to the class designation. Example: OSa type “a“ of class OS. 4.3.2 Rows of stitches The number

40、 of rows of stitches used in forming the stitching is designated by suffixing to the class and type designation, an arabic numeral preceded by a hyphen. Example: OSa-2 ornamental stitching of type “a“ made with two rows of stitches. 4.3.3 Stitch type The complete designation of a stitching includes

41、the symbol or symbols of the type of stitch or stitches used, given in the same manner and in the same order as given in 4.2.3. Example: 304-OSa-1 stitching type OSa formed with one row of stitch type 304. 5 Details of types 5.1 General The various types of stitches, seams, and stitchings are descri

42、bed in detail and illustrated diagrammatically in this section. The presence of an arrow on the stitch type diagram indicates the direction of the successive stitch formation. The diagrams for the seams and stitchings illustrate the fundamental types and the descriptive procedure covers the general

43、formation of the types. Most seam types may be produced by using multiple rows of stitches. 5.2 Stitch types Stitch type 101 (commonly known as single thread basting stitch). Formed with one needle thread which is passed through the material and interlooped with itself on the undersurface of the mat

44、erial. SANS 10101:2008 Edition 1.1 7 Stitch type 102. Formed with two needle threads A and A. Both threads are passed through the material and thread A is interlooped with itself and with thread A. Stitch type 103 (commonly known as single thread blind stitch). Formed with one needle thread which is

45、 interlooped with itself on the top surface of the material. The thread is pass through the top ply and then horizontally) partially through the bottom ply (i.e. it does not penetrate through this ply). Stitch type 104. Formed with one needle thread which is interlooped with itself on the undersurfa

46、ce of the material. SANS 10101:2008 Edition 1.1 8 Stitch type 105. Formed with one needle thread which is interlooped with itself at a centre line on the top surface of the material. The thread is passed through the top ply and partially through the bottom ply (i.e. it does not penetrate through thi

47、s ply) on either side of the centre line. Stitch type 106. Formed with one needle thread which is interlooped with itself on the top surface of the material. The thread is passed through the top ply and then (horizontally) through the bottom ply (i.e. it does not penetrate through this ply). Stitch

48、type 201 (sometimes referred to as cobblers or saddlers stitch). Formed with two needle threads, A and A, which are passed through the same perforations in the material from opposite directions without interlacing or interlooping. SANS 10101:2008 Edition 1.1 9 Stitch type 202 (commonly known as back

49、 stitch). Formed with one needle thread which is passed through the material, brought forward two stitch lengths, passed back through the material, and brought back one stitch length before being passed through the material a third time. Stitch type 203 (commonly known as whip or blanket stitch). Formed with one needle thread which is passed through the material from the underside and immediately passed back through the same perforation to form a loop on the surface of the material. The needle is then advanced one stitch length, passed through the material and the l