NAVY MIL-C-29106 B-1982 COAT MAN-S WOOL WINTER《冬季男式羊毛外套》.pdf

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1、MIL-C-27LObB 4 W 777770b 0387302 4 W 1 March 1982 SUPERSEDING MIL-C-29106A(SA) 5 December 1974 MILITARY SPECIFICATION COAT, MANS, WOOL, WINTER This specification is approved for use by Navy Clothing and Textile Research Facility, Department of the Navy, and is available for use by all Departments an

2、d Agencies of the Department of Defense. 1. SCOPE 1.1 Scope. This specification covers the requirements for a double breasted dress coat constructed of 15 ounce blue wool serge cloth. 1.2 Classification. The coat shall be of one type, in the following classes, sizes and lengths as specified (see 6.2

3、). 1.2.1 Classes. Class 1 - Officers Class 2 - Enlisted Men 1.2.2 Sizes. 33, 34, 35, 36, 37, 38, 39, 40, 41, 42, 43, 44, 45, 46, 47, and 48. * 1.2.3 Lengths. Extra short, short, regular, long, and extra long. 1.3 Uniform. When coat and trousers are procured as a uniform (see 6.2), the coat and trous

4、ers shall be cut from the same piece of material and the shades shall match. 2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS * 2.1 Issue of documents. The following documents of the issue in effect on date of invitation for bids or request for proposal form a part of this specification to the extent specified herein: Benef

5、icial comments (recommendations, additions, and deletions) and any pertinent data which may be of use in improving this document should be addressed to: Officer in Charge, Navy Clothing and Textile Research Facility, 21 Strathmore Road, Natick, MA 01760 by using the self-addressed Standardization Do

6、cument Improvement Proposal (DD Form 1426) appearing at the end of this document or by letter. =. FSC 8405 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-C-27LObB 8L( 77777Ob 0387303 b W SPECIFICATION FEDERAL V-B-871 V-T-276 V-T-280 V-T- 2 8 5 V

7、-T- 29 5 V-T-301 ccc-c-4 38 DDD-L-20 DDD-T-8 6 MILITARY MIL-C- 3 68 MIL-B-371 MIL-C-823 MIL-B-3461 MIL-C-15062 MIL-P-15064 MIL-C-15065 MIL-C-16375 MIL-B-17757 MIL-(2-29137 MIL-T-43548 MIL-C-43718 STANDARDS FEDERA. FED-STD-751 Button, Sewing Hole, and Button, Staple (Plastic) Thread, Cotton Thread, C

8、otton Gimp, Buttonhole Thread, Polyester Thread , Nylon Thread, Silk Cloth, Buckram, Cotton Label; For Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage (General IJse) Tape, Textile, Cotton, General Purpose (Unbleached Bleached, or Dyed) Cloth, Satin, Rayon and Cloth, Twill, Rayon Braid, Textile (Cotton, Tubular) Clo

9、th, Serge, Wool; Wool and Nylon; Polyester and Wool Buttons, Insignia, Metal, Uniform and Cap Cloth, Flannel, Wool, Undercollar Cloth Pad, Shoulder and Sleeve-Head Coat Fronts Cloth, Wigan, Cotton Boxes, Fiber, Corrugated (Modular Sizes) Cloth, Felt Fabric, Composite, Undercollar Thread Polyester Co

10、tton-covered Cloth, Twill, Polyester, Polyester and Cotton Polyester and Rayon Stitches, Seams, and Stitchings MILITARY MIL-STD-129 - Marking for Shipment and Storage MIL-STD-1490 - Provisions for Evaluating Quality of Coats, Mens, Dress (Copies of specifications, drawings, standards, and publicatio

11、ns required by contractor-in connection with specific procurement functions should be obtained from the procuring activity or as directed by the contracting officer. 2 = I. . . Si - Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-C-27LObB 8Li 979

12、9906 0387304 8 MIL-C-29106B (NU) RULES AND REGULATIONS U.S. POSTAL SERVICE MANUAL (Copies of the manual may be obtained from the Superintendent of Documents, U.S. Government Printing Office, Washington, D.C. 20402.) 2.2 Other publications. The following documents form a part of this specification to

13、 the extent specified herein. Unless a specific issue is identified, the issues in effect on date of invitation for bids or request for proposal shall apply: NATIONAL MOTOR FREIGHT TRAFFIC ASSOCIATION, INC., AGENT Nat ional Mo tor Freight Classification (Application for copies should be addressed to

14、 American Trucking Association, Attn: Traffic Department, 1616 P Street, N.W., Washington, D.C. 20036.) UNIFORM CLASSIFICATION COMMITTEE, AGENT Uniform Freight Classification (Application for copies should be addressed to the Uniform Classification Committee, Room 1106, 222 South Riverside Plaza, Ch

15、icago, IL 60606.) 3. REQUIREFENTS 3.1 Guide samples. Samples, when furnished, are solely for guidance and information to the contractor (see 6.3). Variation from this specification may appear in the sample, in which case this specification shall govern. 3.2 First article. When specified (see 6.2), t

16、he contractor shall furnish sample unit(s) for first article inspection and approval (see 4.2). 3.3 Materials 3.3.1 Basic material. The basic material for the coats shall be wool, serge, shade Blue 3346, conforming to type I, class 5 of MIL-C-823. 3.3.2 Lining. The material for lining the coat body,

17、 sleeves, left front fly and for the right inside breast pocket welt and facing shall be rayon, 3.7 ounce, conforming to class 1 of MIL-C-368. The material shall match shade Black 3202. 3.3.3 Rayon binding. The binding for the underarm shields shall be the same material as specified in 3.3.2. The bi

18、nding shall be cut on a 45 (+ 5) degree angle in strips 314 to 718 inch wide. The ends of the strips shall be joined together by stitch type 301 and seam type SSa-1 with 10 to 12 stitches per inch. open and flat. The edges of the binding shall be treated with a synthetic resin to prevent raveling wh

19、en-Yestred as specified in 4.4.1 The seams shall be 118 inch wide and shall be pressed 3 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-C-27LObB 8Lt W 7777706 0387305 T MIL-C-29106B (NU) 3.3.4 Collar interlining. The material for the collar inte

20、rlining shall be cotton, buckram, natural or white conforming to type I, class 2 of CCC-C-438, except that the test for shrinkage shall be in accordance with test method 5580 of PED-STD-191. 3.3.5 Undercollar cloth. The undercollar material shall be wool flannel conforming to MIL-C-15062 or a felt/f

21、abric composite conforming to MIL-C-29137. The shade shall be black and requirements for perspiration and crocking shall not apply. When the felt/fabric composite is used, the cotton buckram collar interlining is not required. 3.3.6 Wigam. The material for interlining bottom of sleeves shall be cott

22、on, wigan, natural color, conforming to type I of MIL-C-16375. * 3.3.7 Pocketing. The material for the pockets and stays shall be twill shall be twill cloth conforming to class 1 of MIL-C-43718. The shade for the pockets shall be black. The shade for pocket stays may be black or bleached. 3.3.8 Hang

23、er loop. The hanger loop for the coat shall be of the material specified in 3.3.2 or shall be braid, cotton, tubular, conforming to type III, class 1 of MIL-B-371. The braid shall be black and shall show good fastness to crocking and wet-dry cleaning when tested as specified in 4.4.1. 3.3.9 Coat fro

24、nt. The coat fronts shall conform to type VI and the construction thereto of MIL-C-15065. As an alternate to the Silesia used for stays, a twill cloth, conforming to class 1 of MIL-C-43718 may be used. 3.3.10 Shoulder and sleeve pads. The shoulder and sleeve pads shall conform to type I, class 1 and

25、 type IV and the construction thereto of MIL-P-15064. The type I shall be used for the shoulders and the type IV shall be used for the sleeve heads. 3.3.11 Tapes. 3.3.11.1 Woven tape. The tape shall be cotton, preshrunk, conforming to class 1 or class 2 and shall be of the following types and widths

26、 of DDD-T-86: Type I - 5/8 inch wide stay tape for bridle at breakline of lapel Type II - 3/16 inch wide stay tape for welt of pockets, front neck gorge, Type III - 318 inch wide stay tape for lapel, back neck, front and.bottom edges 3 WOOL, WINTER FIBER CONTENT: WOOL (100%) CONTRACT NO.: DU-100-00-

27、0-0000 (Example) STOCK NO.: 8405-00-000-0000 (Example) S1Z.E: 38R (Example) NAME OF CONTRACTOR NOTE: The length (extra short, short, regular, long and extra long) may be abbreviated as XS, S, R, L or Xi,. 6 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS

28、-,-,-7 , i MIL-C-27LObB 8Lt W 7777706 0387308 5 W 3.3.14.2 Size ticket. Unless otherwise specified, a size ticket shall be attached on the outside of the right top sleeve 2 or 3 inches from the bottom edge. The ticket shall be tacked on four corners by machine or hand (6 to 8 per tack by machine, or

29、 2 to 3 per tack by hand). The corners may be double perforated for ease in tacking. The size ticket shall be made of suitable commercial cardboard measuring not less than 2-1/8 by 1-1/4 inches and shall be legibly printed with the following information: COAT, MANS, WOOL, WINTER SIZE: 38R The nomenc

30、lature shall be printed in letters not less than 1/8 inch in height and size numerals not less than 1/4 inch in height. The model may be designated XS, S, R, L or XL. 3.3.14.3 Personal and instruction label. Each coat shall have a combination personal and instruction label conforming to type IV clas

31、ses 3 and 10 of DDD-L-20, except that the Name and Service No. shall be in letters not less than 1/4 inch in height; all other lettering shall be l/8 inch in height. The overall size of the label shall be 3-1/2 (+ 1/8) inches by 1-1/2 (2 1/8) inches. shall be as follows: The label shall show colorfa

32、stness todry cleaning and the inscription NAME SERVICE NO.: CAUTION Roll press sleeves and lapels. Dry clean only. 3.3.15 Buttons 3.3.15.1 Metal buttons. The gold plated buttons for the class 1 coat shall conform to 35-line, regular shank for left front and 35-line, short shank for right front confo

33、rming to type I, style 4, class A of MIL-B-3461. The silver buttons for the class 2 coat shall conform to type I, style 4, class Cy hopper-back of MIL-B-3461. The buttons for the left front, for class 1 and class 2 coats, shall be furnished with bodkin toggles. 3.3.15.2 Composition buttons. The butt

34、ons for the inside left front fly of coat shall be plastic, type LI, class D, styles 20 and 21, 30-line; and type IL, class D, styles 20 and 21, 24-line for sword vent flap conforming to V-B-871. The buttons shall be black and have a glossy finish. Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or net

35、working permitted without license from IHS-,-,- MIL-C-27LObB 84 7777706 0387307 7 M 3.4 Design. The coat shall be a semi-fitted, double-breasted fully lined sack coat. It shall have three, 35-line Navy eagle gilt buttons (class i) or three, 35-lineNavy eagle silver buttons (class 2) on each forepart

36、, semi-peaked lapels, front and side body, two-piece back, one welted outside breast pocket, two welted lower front pockets and inside welt or double piped pocket at the right breast, and a sword slit with flap in side (underarm) seam of left forepart (class i) (see Figure i). 3.4.1 Figures. Figures

37、 are furnished for information purposes only. To the extent of any inconsistencies between the written specification and the figures, the written specification shall govern. 3.5 Patterns. Standard patterns to be used to cut working patterns will be furnished by the Government (see 6.3). footnotes to

38、 the List of Pattern Parts, the working patterns shall be identical to the Government patterns which shall not be altered in any way. indicated in Table I. Except as allowed by The patterns allow 3/8 inch for all seams, except as otherwise 3.5.1 List of pattern parts. The component parts of the Coat

39、, Mans, Wool, Winter shall be cut from materials as specified and in accordance with the number of parts required for the manufacturing process as follows: Mat er ia1 Cloth, serge, wool Cloth, rayon, lining Pattern Parts Front Side body Back Facing Top sleeve Under sleeve Top collar Pocket welt (hip

40、) Pocket welt (outside breast) Pocket facing (hip) Pocket facing (outside breast) Underarm shield Sword vent flap Sword vent facing Front Back Top sleeve Under sleeve Front fly (left side) Pocket welt and facing Sword vent flap (right inside breast pocket) Cut Parts 2 2 2 2 2 2 1 2 1 2 1 2 1 i/ 1 i/

41、 - 2 2 2 2 2 1 1 L/ 8 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-C-27LObB 8L( W 777770b 0387310 3 MIL-C-29106B (NU) 3.6.1 Stitches, seams, and stitching types. Stitch, seam, and stitching types as specified in Table I shall conform to FED-ST

42、D-751. Wherever two or more methods for seam or stitch types are given for the same part of the operation, any one of them may be used. used, the looper (underthread) shall be on the inside of the coat. Unless otherwise specified, topstitching and edgestitching shall be 1/16 inch from edge, There st

43、itch type 401 or 101 is 3.6.2 Thread breaks and ends of seams. when not caught in other seams or stitchings shall be backtacked not less than 318 inch unless otherwise specified. of stitching shall be overlappednot less than 1/2 inch. (all stitch types) shall be secured by stitching back of the brea

44、k not less than 112 inch. r.epaired by using 301 stitching-type. as an option, it shall not be used unless the ends are caught in other seams or stitching, except basting and button sewing operations. Ends of all seams and stitchings The ends of a continuous line Thread breaks Skipped stitches or 40

45、1 stitch type thread breaks may be Where stitch type 401 or 101 is permitted, Mat erial (con t d) Cloth, twill, class 1 Pattern Parts Cut Parts Hip pocket (inner ply) 2 Hip. pocket (outer ply) 2 Outside breast pocket (inner ply) 1 Outside breast pocket (outer ply) 1 Inside breast pocket 1 Cloth, fel

46、t, wool and rayon Cloth, wool, flannel Cloth, cotton, interlining Cloth cotton, wigan Templa tes n Undercollar (bias) 12/ Undercollar (bias) Undercollar, canvas (bias) 2 L/ Sleeve interlining (bias) 2 Undercollar shaper - Lapel shaper - Finished lapel and collar shaper - Undercollar stand marker - i

47、/ Class i coat only. - - 21 Pattern shall be cut as one pice only. 31 Pattern may be cut as one piece. - 3.6 Construction 3.6.3 Stitches per inch. The minimum and maximum number of stitches per inch shall be 3s specified in Table I. 9 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permit

48、ted without license from IHS-,-,-s_- MIL-C-271ObB 8Li m 777770b 0387311 5 m MIL-C-Z9106B(NU) 3.7 Manufacturing operations requirements. The coats shall be manufactured in accordance with the operation requirements specified in Table I. contractor is not required to follow the exact sequence of opera

49、tions listed provided that the finished coats are identical to those produced by following the sequence of operations as listed in Table I. The 3.7.1 All pressing operations referenced in Table I shall be performed by using a heated pressing iron or steam pressing machine. 10 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-C-29LObB 4 m 9999906 0387312 7