BS 4560-1990 Specification for fabrics for linings in uniform clothing《制服衣衬用织物规范》.pdf

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1、BRITISH STANDARD BS4560:1990 Specification for Fabrics for linings in uniform clothingBS4560:1990 This British Standard, having been prepared under the directionof the Textile and Clothing Standards Policy Committee, was published underthe authorityofthe BoardofBSI andcomes into effect on 31May1990

2、BSI08-1999 First published February1970 First revision September1980 Second revision May1990 The following BSI references relate to the work on this standard: Committee reference TCM/5 Draft for comment88/46075 DC ISBN 0 580 18080 8 Committees responsible for this British Standard The preparation of

3、 this British Standard was entrusted by the Textiles and Clothing Standards Policy Committee (TCM/-) to Technical Committee TCM/5, upon which the following bodies were represented: British Interlining Manufacturers Association British Nonwovens Manufacturers Association British Railways Board Britis

4、h Textile Employers Association Home Office London Regional Transport Ministry of Defence Textile Research Council Amendments issued since publication Amd. No. Date of issue CommentsBS4560:1990 BSI 08-1999 i Contents Page Committees responsible Inside front cover Foreword ii 1 Scope 1 2 Definition 1

5、 3 Construction and performance 1 4 Sampling 1 5 Testing 1 6 Marking 1 Appendix A Recommended fabrics for various end uses 6 Appendix B Determination of dimensional change on heating 6 Appendix C Determination of thickness, and thickness on recovery 7 Appendix D Determination of infra-red reflectanc

6、e 7 Appendix E Supplementary information for MoD contracts 8 Figure 1 Marking of test specimens 7 Table 1 Woven fabrics 2 Table 2 Warp-knitted fabrics 4 Table 3 Raised knitted fabrics 4 Table 4 Colour fastness of dyed fabrics 5 Table 5 Recommended fabrics for various end uses 6 Table 6 Cross-referen

7、ces between fabric references used in BS4640, MoD pattern numbers and NATO stock numbers together with item names and descriptions and minimum fabric widths 8 Publications referred to Inside back coverBS4560:1990 ii BSI 08-1999 Foreword This British Standard has been prepared under the direction of

8、the Textiles and Clothing Standards Policy Committee and forms a revision of BS4560:1980 which is withdrawn. BS4560 is intended to provide a range of linings which will meet public and private sector requirements. The lining fabrics specified in this standard should be used in conjunction with the o

9、uter fabrics specified in BS1771. The standard is intended to be restricted to lining fabrics only, interlinings being specified in BS4973. In this revision, additional fabrics have been included and changes to requirements have been made to align with current practice. Linings made from fabrics com

10、plying with this standard will be satisfactory under normal conditions of use. If they are to be used in garments which will be subjected to frequent cleansing, e.g.firemens uniforms, then allowances should be made for the effects such frequent cleansing treatments may have on certain of the fabric

11、properties. Garment suppliers and purchasers should take account of all the environmental conditions (such as exposure to heat and water) likely to be met during use, to ensure the most suitable fabric is specified. Many properties cannot be specified objectively and cannot therefore be included in

12、this standard. Examples of such properties include colour, handle appearance and details of additional design features. Purchasing authorities should be able to supply standard patterns which cover these properties and thus serve to resolve any ambiguities of description. A British Standard does not

13、 purport to include all the necessary provisions of a contract. Users of British Standards are responsible for their correct application. Compliance with a British Standard does not of itself confer immunity from legal obligations. In particular, attention is drawn to Statutory Instrument1986 No.26,

14、 The Textile products (Indications of Fibre Content) Regulations1986. Summary of pages This document comprises a front cover, an inside front cover, pagesi andii, pages1 to8, an inside back cover and a back cover. This standard has been updated (see copyright date) and may have had amendments incorp

15、orated. This will be indicated in the amendment table on the inside front cover.BS4560:1990 BSI 08-1999 1 1 Scope This British Standard specifies requirements for woven fabrics and warp knitted fabrics for linings in uniform clothing suitable for use in the public and private sector. Requirements ar

16、e specified for construction, mass per unit area, threads or wales/courses per unit length, strength, dimensional stability and colour fastness. Recommended fabrics for various end uses are given in Appendix A. Appendix B gives a method for determination of thickness and thickness on recovery, Appen

17、dix C gives a method for determination of dimensional stability on heating and Appendix D gives a method for determination of infra-red reflectance. Supplementary information for MoD contracts is given in Appendix E. NOTEThe titles of the publications referred to in this standard are listed on the i

18、nside back cover. 2 Definition For the purposes of this British Standard the definitions given in BS1903, BS4815 and BS6189 apply together with the following. 2.1 lining a separate entity used in making-up garments and other articles, consisting of a single layer or multiple layers of textile materi

19、al loosely held in place along one or more edges. NOTEThe lining does not modify the properties of the main fabric with which it is associated but can impart certain performance characteristics to the article as a whole. 3 Construction and performance 3.1 General Fabrics shall comply withTable 1,Tab

20、le 2,Table 3 andTable 4, as appropriate. NOTE 1Yarns should be evenly spun, fabrics should be uniformly woven, and selvedges should be firm, straight and not of excessive thickness such as may cause build-up during laying-up for garment cutting. The colour and finish should be uniform throughout the

21、 fabric. NOTE 2Interested parties may agree that a flame retardant treatment may be applied, and may agree on the flammability performance which should be met and on the garment cleaning procedures. 3.2 Water repellency If fabrics with fabric references1.4,2.1 and2.2 are to be water repellent see6 d

22、), they shall have a minimum rating of4 when tested in accordance with BS3702. 4 Sampling 4.1 For the purposes of sampling, no batch shall exceed5000m in length. Samples of the fabric taken for testing in accordance with clause5 shall be representative of each delivery batch. 4.2 One sample shall be

23、 taken from each batch and shall be identified with the piece from which it is taken. 4.3 Each sample shall be taken not less than20m from the end of the piece and shall be large enough to provide material for all the tests required by clause5. 5 Testing 5.1 General Tests in accordance withTable 1 t

24、oTable 4, other than the test for colour fastness to light (see5.2), shall be carried out on every sample. 5.2 Colour fastness to light Determination of colour fastness to light shall be carried out on one sample taken from the first batch of a contract. Provided this sample meets the requirements s

25、pecified in Table 4 and subject to the following proviso, no further colour fastness to light tests need be carried out. If, however, in the course of the contract, the dye formulation is changed, the colour fastness to light shall be redetermined on a sample taken from the first batch to which the

26、new dyeing formulation applies. In cases of dispute, the colour fastness to light test shall be carried out on the basis of one sample per batch. 6 Marking Fabrics shall bear the following information, for example on an invoice, or swing ticket on the piece or roll: a) the name, trade mark or other

27、means of identification of the manufacturer; b) the number and date of this British Standard, i.e.BS4560:1990 1) ; c) instructions for care and cleansing in accordance with the recommendations and terminology of BS2747; d) in the case of fabric with fabric reference1.4,2.1 or2.2 a statement as to wh

28、ether or not the fabric is water repellent. NOTEIn addition the fabric should bear any other marking the contract or order may direct. 1) Marking BS4560:1990 on or in relation to a product represents a manufacturers declaration of conformity, i.e.a claim by or on behalf of the manufacturer that the

29、product meets the requirements of the standard. The accuracy of the claim is therefore solely the responsibility of the person making the claim. Such a declaration is not to be confused with third party certification of conformity, which may also be desirable.BS 4560:1990 2 BSI 08-1999 Table 1 Woven

30、 fabrics Fabric reference Description/fibre type a Weave Minimum mass per unit area Minimum threads per centimetre Minimum breaking strength Maximum dimensional change wrap and weft Finish and other details Wrap Weft Wrap Weft 1.1 1.2 1.3 1.4 1.5 1.6 1.7 1.8 cotton cotton cotton, silesia taffeta, cf

31、 polyamide6 or66 taffeta, cf polyamide satin, cf viscose warp, spun viscose weft taffeta, cf polyanide6 or66 serge wool 2 1 twill Oxford plain plain plain 8 end satin plain 2 2 twill to right g/m 2 190 150 150 65 85 200 120 295 31 95 (2 fold) 23 35 40 99 27 17 15 37 (2 fold) 21 29 23 27 22 16 N 840

32、520 400 550 700 850 1100 310 N 300 860 450 450 550 450 900 420 % 2 b 2 b 2 c 2 c 2 c 2 c 2 b Water resistant fabric. Maximum water penetration50mL when tested in accordance with BS5066. Piece dyed Proofed, water vapour permeable fabric. Water penetration of0mL when tested in accordance with BS5066 P

33、iece dyed. Heat set. If required to be water repellent see3.2 Piece dyed. Heat set Piece dyed Heat set Unstoved Test Method BS2471 BS2862 BS2576 a cf indicates continuous filament. b When tested in accordance with BS4736. c When tested in accordance with BS4323.BS 4560:1990 BSI 08-1999 3Table 1 Wove

34、n fabrics Fabric reference Description/fibretype a Weave Minimum mass per unit area Minimum threads per centimetre Minimum breaking strength Maximum dimensional change wrap and weft Finish and other details Wrap Weft Wrap Weft 1.9 1.10 1.11 1.12 1.13 1.14 cf viscose warp, spun viscose weft cf viscos

35、e cf viscose cotton poplin, cotton dull polyester, cf wrap, textured weft 3 1 2 1 twill 3 1 twill plain plain plain g/m 2 125 104 125 108 140 70 43 44 43 16.2 56.6 (2 fold) 40 24.5 24.5 24.5 17.0 25.0 22 N 550 400 500 310 1000 420 N 500 300 500 265 330 520 % 2 c 2 c 2 c 2 b 2 d 1 c 1 e Piece dyed Pi

36、ece dyed Piece dyed Piece dyed Mercerized, fully shrunk. Maximum water absorption30%and maximum penetration5mL when tested in accordance with clause22 of BS4F100:1982. Infra-red reflectance35 5% when tested in accordance with Appendix D Heat set Test Method BS2471 BS2862 BS2576 a cf indicates contin

37、uous filament. b When tested in accordance with BS4736. c When tested in accordance with BS4323. d When tested in accordance with BS5807 after washing in accordance with process2A of BS4923 and press drying at150 C. e On heating, when tested in accordance with Appendix B.BS 4560:1990 4 BSI 08-1999 T

38、able 2 Warp knitted fabrics Table 3 Raised knitted fabric Fabric reference Description/fibre type a Construction Minimum mass per unit area Yarn linear density nominal Minimum wales/courses per centimetre Maximum dimensional change Minimum bursting strength Front bar movement Back bar movement Wales

39、 Courses Wales Courses 2.1 2.2 cf polyamide 6 or polyamide 66 cf polyamide 6 or polyamide66 1-0/0-1 0-1/1-0 1-0/0-1 0-1/1-0 1-2/1-0 1-0/0-1 0-1/1-0 1-0/0-1 0-1/1-0 1-2/1-0 1-0/3-4 1-0/3-4 1-0/4-5 1-0/4-5 1-0/3-4 1-0/3-4 1-0/3-4 1-0/4-5 1-0/4-5 1-0/3-4 g/m 2 85 98 dtex 44 44 12 12 20 26 % 2 2 % 2 2 k

40、Pa 600 750 Test Method BS2471 BS5441 BS4323 BS4768 b NOTEIf fabric references2.1,2.2 are required to be water repellent see3.2. a cf indicates continuous filament. b Using30.5mm diameter clamping ring. Fabric reference Description/fibre type Minimum mass per unit area Minimum wales/courses per centi

41、metre Minimum bursting strength Minimum thickness Minimum thickness on recovery at6.9Pa Wales Courses At6.9Pa At980Pa 3.1 raised wool face, viscose backing 70%wool 30%cellulosic g/m 2 150 2.5 6.0 kPa 90 mm 6.0 mm 2.3 % 80 Test Method BS2471 BS5441 BS4768 a Appendix C a Using30.5mm diameter clamping

42、ring.BS 4560:1990 BSI 08-1999 5 Table 4 Colour fastness of dyed fabrics Colour fastness to: Fabric reference 1.1 to1.11 2.1 to2.2 3.1 1.12 1.13 1.14 Test Method Minimum rating Minimum rating Minimum rating Minimum rating Light (xenon arc) 5 45 BS1006: Test B02 Rubbing wet dry 34 4 34 45 3 45 5 5 BS1

43、006: Test X12 Water Change of colour staining: wool : cotton 3 3 3 45 45 45 BS1006: Test E01 Perspiration (acid and alkali) change of colour staining: wool : cotton 4 4 4 4 45 45 45 5 5 45 BS1006: Test E04 Dry cleaning change of colour staining of solvent 3 34 45 BS1006: Test D01 Washing change of c

44、olour staining: cotton 45 45 BS1006: Test C06: Test condition C2SBS4560:1990 6 BSI 08-1999 Appendix A Recommended fabrics for various end uses Table 5 gives a list of recommended fabrics for various end uses. Table 5 Recommended fabrics for various end uses Appendix B Determination of dimensional ch

45、ange on heating B.1 Apparatus B.1.1 Oven, as described in method14B of BS3424-12, maintained at a temperature of160 4 C. B.1.2 Scale, graduated in millimetres. B.2 Preparation of test specimens B.2.1 Pre-condition the sample and bring it into equilibrium with the standard temperate atmosphere for co

46、nditioning and testing defined in BS1051. From the sample, cut a specimen300mm 300mm, with its respective edges parallel to the warp and weft threads. B.2.2 Mark the specimen with reference points, as indicated in Figure 1. B.3 Procedure B.3.1 Suspend the test specimen inside the oven so that air is

47、 free to circulate around the specimen and so that the edges of the specimen are not within50mm of the sides of the oven. NOTESpecimens may be suspended by passing a rod through slits cut in the edges of the specimen, as shown in Figure4. B.3.2 Expose the specimen to the temperature of160+4 C for15m

48、in. Remove the specimen from the oven, lay it flat upon a smooth surface and allow it to cool. Condition the specimen in the standard temperate atmosphere for conditioning and testing defined in BS1051. B.3.3 Measure the distance between marks A, B, C, D, E and F, i.e.A to A, B to B etc.,in both the

49、 warp and weft directions and record the results. End use Garment or component Fabric reference Linings body and sleeves 1.1,1.2,1.4,1.5,1.8,1.9,1.10,1.11,2.1,2.2 crotch 1.3,1.4,1.5,1.6,1.9,1.10,1.11,2.1,2.2 waistbands 1.3,1.4,1.5,1.6,1.9,1.10,1.11,2.1,2.2 caps (mainly) 1.14 Linings specifically for mens garments body and sleeves 1.4,1.5,1.9,1.10,1.11,2.1,2.2 waistcoat back 1.4,1.5,1.9,1.10,1.11,2.1,2.2 overcoat body 1.6,1.9,1.10,1