NAVY MIL-DTL-28950 C-1997 COAT MAN-S - DRESS BLUE (OFFICER-S)《男士衣服蓝色外套(官员的)》.pdf

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1、 MIL-DTL-28950C W 999990b 20555bb 899 = MIL-DTL-28950C (MC) 8 October 1997 SUPERSEDING MIL-C-28950B(MC) 26 July 1994 DETAIL SPECIFICATION COAT, MANS - DRESS; BLUE (OFFICERS) This specification is approved for use by U.S. Marine Corps, Department of the Navy, and is available for use by all Departmen

2、ts and Agencies of the Department of Defense. 1. SCOPE 1.1. Scope. This specification covers requirements.for a blue dress coat, with belt. 1.2. Classification. The coats will be of one type in the following sizes as specified (see 6.2). Beneficial comments (recommendations, additions, deletions) an

3、d any pertinent data which may be of use in. improving this document should be addressed to the Commander (PSE-D), Marine Corps Systems Command, Quantico, VA 22134-5010 by using the Standardization Document Improvement Proposal (DD Form 1426) appearing at the end of this document or by letter. AMSC

4、N/A FSC 8405 DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited. Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-. MIL-DTL-28950C 9Ob 20555b7 725 MIL-DTL-28 950C (MC) a Schedule of sizes Short Reqular Larqe Extra Larqe 3

5、6 38 40 42 36 38 40 42 44 46 36 38 40 42 44 46 36 38 40 42 44 1.3. Individual orders. When the coat is custom tailored to an individual order, this specification will govern, except the detailed requirements of Section 3, Table I may be modified to the extent necessary for good custom tailoring prac

6、tices. 2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS 2.1. General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3 and 4 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. every effort has

7、been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements documents cited in sections 3 and 4 of this specification, whether or not they are listed. While 2.2. Government documents. 2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. T

8、he following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those listed in the issue of the Department of Defense Index of Specifications and Standards (DoDISS) and supplement theret

9、o, cited in the solicitation (see 6.2). SPECIFICATIONS FEDERAL A-A-50067 - Cloth, Flannel, Wool Under Collar Cloth A-A-50186 - Cloth, Buckram, Woven and Nonwoven A-A-50196 - Thread, Silk A-A-50198 - Thread, Gimp, Cotton, Buttonhole 2 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitt

10、ed without license from IHS-,-,-A-A-50199 - A-A-52071 - A-A-52094 - A-A-52106 - V-B-871 - DDD-L-20 - MIL-DTL-2895OC (MC) Thread, Polyester Core, Cotton or Polyester Covered Tape, Textile, Cotton, General Purpose (Unbleached, Bleached or Dyed) Thread, Cotton Cloth, Twill, Polyester, or Polyester Blen

11、d Button, Sewing Hole, and Button, Staple (Plastic) Labels: For Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage (General Use) DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE MIL-C-368 - MIL-B-371 - MIL-DTL-3461- MIL-C-3738 - MIL-C-10176 - MIL-L-15040 - MIL-P-15064 - MIL-F-15065 - MIL-C-44296 - STANDARDS FEDERAL FED-STD-751 - Cloth, Satin, R

12、ayon and Cloth, Twill Rayon Braid, Textile, Tubular Buttons, Insignia, Metal, Uniform and Cap Cloth, Elastique, Wool Cloth, Gabardine: Wool, Polyester and Wool Label, Garment (Woven, Rayon) Pads, Shoulder and Sleeve-Head Coat Fronts Cloth, Fusibles Stitch, Seams, and Stitching DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE

13、MIL-STD-1490 - Provisions for Evaluating Quality of Coats, Mens Dress (Unless otherwise indicated, copies of the above specifications, standards, handbooks are available from the Standardization Document Order Desk, 700 Robbins Avenue, Building 4D, Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094.) 2.3. Non-Government p

14、ublications. The following document(s) form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of the documents which are DoD adopted are those listed in the issue of the DoDISS cited in the solicitation. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of documents

15、 not listed in the DoDISS are the issues of the documents ci,ted in the solicitation (see 6.2). 3 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- MIL-DTL-28950C W 999990b 2055569 5T8 MIL-DTL-2895OC(MC) Department of Defense (DoD) Standard Color Card

16、 of Official Standardized Shades for Sewing Threads 1968 Department of Defense (DoD) Standard Shades for Buttons 1966 (Application for copies should be addressed to the Color Association of the United States, Inc., 409 W. 44th Street, New York, NY 10016-0927. ) 2.4. Order of precedence. In the event

17、 of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained. Nothing in this document, 3. REQUIREMENTS 3.1. Standard sample. Standard sa

18、mples are furnished solely for guidance and information to the contractor (see 6.3). Variation from this specification may appear in the sample, in which case the specification shall govern. 3.2. First article. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection in acco

19、rdance with 4.3. 3.3. Materials. 3.3.1 Basic material. The basic material shall be cloth, polyester/wool gabardine, conforming to type II, class 12 of MIL-C-10176, 10.6 ounces, blue, shade 2312. An optional fabric is cloth, wool, elastique, conforming to type II of MIL-C-3738, 16 ounces, blue, shade

20、 2309. 3.3.2 Lininq. The material for lining the coat, standard belt, pocket flaps, buttonhole tab for sword slit, collar and vent; for making the belt fastener; and for the facing of the inside pocket shall be cloth, rayon, twill, 3.7 ounces, conforming to class 1 of MIL-C-368. (see 6.3). The color

21、 of the cloth shall be black, shade 2604 3.3.3 The sword slit patch and collar tab shall be made of wool flannel, under collar cloth, conforming to A-A-50067. The color of the cloth shall be of an approved shade to closely match the basic material of the coat (see 6.3). Under collar cloth. 4 Provide

22、d by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- _ MIL-DTL-28950C 999990b 2055570 2LT MIL-DTL-28 950C (MC) 3.3.4 Bias bindinq. The binding for the upper edge of the front pockets, the back edge of the facings, the raw edge of the button turnup, and the raw

23、edge of seam allowances shall be bias-cut out of the lining material specified in 3.3.2. The bias binding for the seams, facings and bottom turnup shall be 3/4 inch wide, and for the top edge of pockets shall be 1-1/8 inches wide. The binding shall have sized edges. 3.3.5 Polvester twill. The materi

24、al for making the inside breast pocket, stay pieces for the front pockets, stays for the armhole and shoulder seams and the lower edge of armhole, inside pocket support, collar interlining, and the reinforcement pieces for the upper front pocket snap fasteners shall be cloth, polyester twill, confor

25、ming to class 1 of A-A-52106. The polyester twill shall be black. The requirements for non-fibrous material and seam efficiency shall not apply. 3.3.6 Belt interlininq. The material for interlining the standard belt shall be cloth, cotton, buckram, natural color, conforming to type I of A-A-50186. 3

26、.3.7 Collar, interlininq. The material for interlining the collar shall be cloth, cotton, buckram, double texture, a laminated, starch finish, natural color, conforming to type IV of A-A-50186. The weight of the finished laminated cloth shall be 21 to 23 ounces per square yard. 3.3.8 Coat fronts. Th

27、e coat fronts shall conform to type XI of MIL-C-15065, except that the cotton warp, hairwool filling cloth and the polyester twill cloth for the stays shall be dyed black. The dyed polyester twill shall show fastness to wet (dry) cleaning only. The dyeing of the cotton warp, hair filling cloth shall

28、 be accomplished with a selected direct dye and the dyed cloth shall be after treated, preferably with copper sulfate to meet the requirements as specified herein. The dyed cotton warp, hairwool filling cloth shall show fastness to wet (dry) cleaning. 3.3.8.1. Fusible for coat fronts and back vent (

29、alternate). The coat front and vent may be fused using a woven twill cloth conforming to type II, style B, class 1 of MIL-C-44296 in black or charcoal gray shade. 3.3.8.1.1 Chest pieces. Construction and application of chest piece and required components shall be the same as required in MIL-C-15065.

30、 Components requiring haircloth are the chest 5 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-28950C 99999Ob 2055573 L5b = MIL-DTL-2 8 95OC (MC) pieces, top front reinforcement pieces and wedge pieces. The flannel felt shall be the same as

31、stated in MIL-C-15065, paragraphs 3.3.4.1 and 3.3.4.2. The polyester twill cloth required for stays and coverings shall be the same as stated in MIL-C-15065, paragraph 3.3.3. As an alternate, needle pouch fabric in lieu of flannel is permitted. 3.3.9 Shoulder pads. The shoulder pads shall conform to

32、 type I, class 2 of MIL-P-15064. 3.3.10 Sleeve-head pads. The sleeve-head pads shall conform to type IV of MIL-P-15064. 3.3.11 Hanqer braid. cotton or rayon tubular flat braid 1/8 to 3/16 inch wide, minimum breaking strength 50 pounds, color black conforming to type IX, class 1 of MIL-B-371. The bra

33、id for the coat hanger shall be 3.3.12 Tape, cotton. The cotton tape shall conform to type II of A-A-52071; 1/4 inch wide for armholes, back vent and waist seam and 3/8 inch wide for front edges of coat. 3.3.13 Thread. 3.3.13.1. Silk thread. The silk thread shall conform to A-A-50196. I, ticket No.

34、A for all outside seaming and stitching; ticket No. B and ticket No. F for buttonhole, needle and looper threads, respectively; and ticket No. O for machine felling. The thread for hand sewing shall be type III, ticket No. C, 2-ply of The thread for machine sewing shall conform to type A-A-50196. 3.

35、3.13.2. Cotton thread. A-A-52094, type III, mercerized finish, ticket No. A, 3-ply for all inside seaming and stitching, overedge stitching, and for belt and belt fastener buttonholes; type II, glazed finish, ticket No. 24, 4-ply for sewing on buttons and machine tacking armholes. grade. As an alter

36、nate to the cotton thread, a polyester, cotton-covered thread conforming to A-A-50199 ticket No. 50, 2 or 3-ply may be used for seaming and ticket No. 70, 2-ply may be used for overedging. The cotton thread shall conform to The thread for basting shall be a good comercial 3.3.13;3. Synthetic thread.

37、 be used for those basting operations where the thread is required 6 A monofilament synthetic thread may Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- MIL-DTL-2950C 9999906 2055572 O92 MIL-DTL-28 95OC (MC) to be removed, provided the garment is su

38、bsequently given a treatment by a dry cleaning agent in which the synthetic thread is soluble. When this thread is used, any residue remaining on the garment after the dry cleaning process shall be brushed off or removed. 1 i 3.3.13.4. Color and colorfastness. All threads shall be black, shade AA, c

39、able No. 66043, (see DoD Standard Color Card of Official Standardized Shades for Sewing Threads 1968) except cotton thread for basting and for machine tacking armholes may be white. The colored threads, when tested as specified in the applicable thread specification, shall show good fastness to ligh

40、t. 3.3.14 Gimp. The buttonhole gimp shall be cotton, ticket No. 8, soft or glazed finish, conforming to type I or type II of A-A-50198. The color of the gimp shall be black, shade AA, cable No. 66043 showing good fastness to wet (dry) cleaning. 3.3.15 Buttons. 3.3.15.1. Insiqnia buttons. The insigni

41、a buttons shall be metal, gold plated, officer design, 27-line and 40-line, regular shank conforming to type I, style 4, class A, subclass 1 of MIL-DTL-3461. Ring toggles for securing buttons to pockets shall conform to MIL-DTL-3461. 3.3.15.2. Sewinq hole buttons. The sewing hole buttons shall be me

42、lamine formaldehyde composition, glossy finish, conforming to type II, class D, style 4, 22-line, style 20, 34-line, and style 25, 16-line of V-B-871. The color shall be white for the collar and black, shade BT, cable No. 62001 for the rest of the coat (see DoD Standard Shades for Buttons 1966). 3.3

43、.16 Fasteners, snap. The snap fasteners for the upper pockets and flaps shall be brass, black japanned finish or black chemical finish in accordance with MIL-F-495, followed by clear lacquer coating, round or square style, rolled edge, size 1/0, sew-on type. 3.3.17 Collar closure hook and eye. The h

44、ook and eye for closing the collar shall be brass, black, japanned finish, or black chemical finish, followed by a clear lacquer coating and conform to the requirements of Figure 1. 7 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-28950C 9Ob

45、 2055573 T29 MIL-DTL-2895OC (MC) 3.3.17.1.Closure finish. All surface and edges of the hook and eye shall be clean, smooth, and free from burrs, tool marks, sharp edges and roughness. The hook and eye shall be thoroughly and completely lacquered with the best available quality of black japanned lacq

46、uer. level, adherent, free from lint, dust, or other foreign inclusions that may affect appearance or serviceability. apertures of the finished lacquered hook and eye shall be completely open and free of any lacquer film or black chemical finish. The dry lacquer film shall be continuous, All 3.3.18

47、Labels. Each coat shall have an identification label and size label conforming to DDD-L-20 and a woven instruction label conforming to MIL-L-15040 and the following. intended to be dry cleaned and the labels shall show fastness to dry cleaning. The coat is 3.3.18.1. Identification label. The identif

48、ication label shall be type VI, class 1 of DDD-L-20 and shall measure not less than 2-1/2 by 1-1/2 inches. follows : The content and format shall be as Nomenclature: Contract number: Name of contractor: Wool Product Act information: NOTE: Size of character for “Name of contractor“ shall be a minimum

49、 8 point (approximately 3/32 inch). 3.3.18.2.Size label. of DDD-L-20 and shall measure not less than 1-1/2 inches by 1 inch. The label shall consist of the numerical size designation specified in 1.2 followed by the letters S (short), R (regular), L (large), XL (extra large), as shown by the following example: The size label shall be type VI, class 2 40 R 3.3.18.3. Woven instruction label. shall conform to siz