DLA MIL-C-31005-1994 COAT WOMEN-S SERVICE POLYESTER WOOL SERGE BLUE 1620《女式蓝色1620聚酯 毛哔叽大衣》.pdf

《DLA MIL-C-31005-1994 COAT WOMEN-S SERVICE POLYESTER WOOL SERGE BLUE 1620《女式蓝色1620聚酯 毛哔叽大衣》.pdf》由会员分享，可在线阅读，更多相关《DLA MIL-C-31005-1994 COAT WOMEN-S SERVICE POLYESTER WOOL SERGE BLUE 1620《女式蓝色1620聚酯 毛哔叽大衣》.pdf（71页珍藏版）》请在麦多课文档分享上搜索。

1、MIL-C-3LOO5 m 0b L884L2 427 MIL-C-31005 5 October 1994 MILITARY SPECIFICATION COAT, WOMENS, SERVICE, POLYESTER/WOOL SERGE, BLUE 1620 *. This specification is approved for use by all departments and agencies of the Department of Defense. 1. SCOPE 1.1 Scope. This specification covers the requirements

2、for one type of a womans service coat worn by female personnel of the US Air Force. 1.2 Lensths and sizes. The coats shall be furnished in the following lengths and sizes as specified (see 6.2): Schedule of lenqths and sizes Misses Short 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 Regular 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 Long 6 8

3、 10 12 14 16 18 Beneficial comments (recommendations, additions, deletions) and any pertinent data which may be of use in improving this document should be addressed to: Defense Personnel Support Center, Clothing and Textiles Directorate, Attn: DPSC-FQSD, 2800 South 20th Street, Philadelphia, PA 191

4、45-0530, by using the Standardization Document Improvement Proposal (DD Form 1426) appearing at the end of this document or by letter. AMSC NIA FSC 8410 DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited. Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permit

5、ted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-C-31005 W 9999906 1988413 3b3 W MIL-C-31005 . Schedule of lenqths and sizes Womens Short 4 6 8 10 12 Regular 4 6 8 10 12 Long 6 8 10 12 2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS 2.1 Government documents (continued) 14 16 18 14 16 18 14 16 18 2.1.1 Specifications, standards, and ha

6、ndbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents shall be those listed in the issue of the Department of Defense Index of Specifications and Standards (DODISS) and it

7、s supplement thereto, cited in the solicitation (see 6.2). SPECIFICATIONS FEDERAL A-A-50198 A-A- 5 O 19 9 A-A- 5 O 8 2 3 A-A-52 07 1 A-A-52 094 A-A-52 105 A-A-5 2 106 V-B-871 V-T-285 V-T-295 DDD-L-20 Thread, Gimp, Cotton, Buttonhole Thread, Polyester Core; Cotton, or Polyester Covered Felt Sheet, Wo

8、ol, White, Soft Tape, Textile; Cotton, General Purpose Thread, Cotton Cloth, Interlining,Synthetic Warp, and Spun Wool or Rayon Filling Cloth, Twill or Plain Weave, Polyester and Polyester Blend Button, Sewing Hole, and Button Staple (Plastic) Thread, Polyester Thread, Nylon Label For Clothing, Equi

9、page, and Tentage (General Use) MILITARY MIL-C-3 68 - Cloth, Satin, Rayon and Cloth, MIL-B-3 7 1 - Braid, Textile, Tubular MIL-C-823 - Cloth, Serge; Wool, Wool and MIL-B-3461 - Button, Insignia, Metal, Uniform MIL-P-15064 - Pads, Shoulder and Sleeve-Head Twill, Rayon Nylon, Polyester and Wool and Ca

10、p 2 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-C-31005 W 999990b 1988414 2TT W MIL-C-29 137 MIL-C-44192 MIL-C-44296 STANDARDS FEDERAL FED-STD-191 FED-STD-751 MILITARY MIL-STD-105 MIL-STD-129 MIL-STD-147 MIL-STD-1608 MIL-C-31005 - Cloth, Felt

11、 Fabric Composite, - Container, Shipping and Storage, - Cloth, Fusibles Undercollar Coat (Hanger Pack) - Textile Test Methods - Stitches, Seams, and Stitchings - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes - Marking for Shipment and Storage - Palletized Unit Loads - Provisions for Ev

12、aluating Quality of Coats, Womens, Dress (Unless otherwise indicated, copies of Federal and military specifications, standards and handbooks are available from the Standardization Documents Order Desk, Bldg. 4D, 700 Robbins Avenue, Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094.) 2.1.2 Other Government documents. The

13、following other Government documents form a part of this specification to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues are those cited in the solicitation Federal Acquisition Regulation (FAR 52.209) (Copies of the manual may be obtahed from the Superintendent of Documents, US

14、Government Printing Office, Washington, DC 20402-0001.) 2.2 Non-Government tmblications. The following documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. otherwise specified, the issues of the documents which are DoD adopted shall be those listed in the issue of the DODISS cited

15、in the solicitation. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of documents not listed in the DODISS are the issues of the documents cited in the solicitation (see 6.2). Unless AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR TESTING AND MATERIALS D 3951 - Standard Practice for Commercial Packaging (Applications for copies should

16、 be addressed to the American Society for Testing and Materials, 1916 Race Street, Philadelphia, PA 19103-1187.) 3 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-C-31005 m 0b 1988415 136 m MIL-C-31005 (Non-Government standards and other publicat

17、ions are normally available from the organizations that prepare or distribute the documents. These documents also may be available in or through libraries or other informational services.) 2.3 Order of Drecedence. In the event of a conflict between.- the text of this document and the references cite

18、d herein, the- - text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document specific exemption has been obtained. . however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a 3. REQUIREMENTS 3.1 First article. When specified (see 6.3), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection,

19、 in accordance with 4.3. 3.2 Material 3.2.1 Basic material. The basic material shall be a 9.5 - 10.5 ounce blend of 55 percent polyester and 45 percent worsted wool serge cloth, Air Force Blue Shade No. 1620, conforming to MIL-C-823, type III, class 4. 3.2.2 Lininq. The material for lining the front

20、s, sleeves, back, and facings for the inside left and right breast pockets shall be a rayon lining, 3.7 ounces per square yard, conforming to class 1 of MIL-C-368. The color shall match Blue 1086. 3.2.3 Buttons, uniform. The buttons shall be 36-line, short- shank back, conforming to type I, style 1

21、of MIL-B-3461. The stay buttons shall be of melamine or polyester composition, 18- line, 2 hole, color black. 3.2.4 Fusible interlininq 3.2.4.1 Small Darts fusible interlininq. The lapel (front facing), back, side body, top sleeve, under-sleeve, top collar, pocket flap and chest welt, known as “smal

22、l parts,“ shall use a black or charcoal, nonwoven fusible interlining. It shall conform to either type V or VI, class 1, styles A or B, or type VIII, style A of MIL-C-44296. The material shall have a uniformly distributed powder-dot, paste-dot, spun-fused or sintered nylon polyamide fusible adhesive

23、 evenly applied to one side in accordance with good commercial practice. Any given coat shall incorporate the same small parts fusible material. As an alternate, a black or charcoal, woven, lightweight fusible interlining for small parts, conforming to type i, class I, style A of MIL-C-44296 may be

24、used. Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-flIL-C-3L005 = 9999906 L9884Lb O72 MIL-C-31005 3.2.4.2 Fronts fusible interlining. The fusible interlining for the coat fronts shall be a black or charcoal, napped, woven, twill material conformin

25、g to type II, class 1, style B of MIL-C-44296. The material shall have a uniformly distributed, dot-type nylon polyamide fusible adhesive evenly applied to one side in accordance with commercial practice. Any given coat -. shall incorporate the same fronts fusible material. 3.2.4.3 Fused state bondi

26、ng strength. The small parts and fronts fusible material for preproduction and in-process testing shall meet an initial minimum bonding strength requirement in the warp (machine) direction of 32 ounces per inch or splits prior to dry-cleaning when tested as specified in Table VI, and a minimum of 24

27、 ounces per inch or splits in the warp (machine) direction after three dry-cleanings and pressings when tested as specified in 4.4.3.1. Additionally, the small parts fusible interlining will not be accepted if it either begins or debonds from the outer shell material, equivalent to the minimum bond

28、strength or higher, and then splits from itself; or if the small parts readily splits from itself at a minimum tear strength or higher, and then splits from itself; or if the small parts fusible interlining readily splits from itself at a minimum tear strength of 6.0 ounces (170 grams) per inch. 3.2

29、.4.4 Colorfastness. All dyed finished fusible interlining materials shall show colorfastness to dry-cleaning as specified in MIL-C-44296. When no standard sample is available, the finished fusible materials shall show ttgoodtl colorfastness to dry-cleaning. 3.2.4.5 Shrinkaae. The interlining, after

30、fusing to the basic cloth as specified in 3.2.4.6, shall not exceed 1.5 percent differential shrinkage, when tested as specified in 4.4.3.1. Additionally, the interlining, after fusing to the basic cloth as specified in 3.2.4.6, shall not exceed 2.0 percent shrinkage after dry-cleaning, when tested

31、as required in 4.4.3.1. All dry- cleaned materials shall not exhibit any sign of bubbling, puckering or delamination. 3.2.4.6 Fusina sress operatins procedures and conditions. A single layer of fusible interlining shall be fused to a single layer of basic material on a dry, electrically-heated, conv

32、eyor- type fusing press which has the capacity of controlling and retaining pressure, dwell time, and temperature for a minimum of 8 hours. Pair or sandwich fusing which can create differential shrinkage, stitching, and uneven bonding shall not be permitted. A steam-sourced fusing press shall not be

33、 allowed for any initial fusing operations. For optimum results, the fusible material manufacturers recommendations for fusing dwell time, pressure, and temperature, based upon the fusing equipment used and the basic material being fused, shall be utilized. c 5 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reprod

34、uction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-C-3LOO5 m b L988VL7 TO9 m MIL-C-31005 Common fusing press settings shall be established in order to fuse both the small parts and fronts fusibles together. Basic preproduction and production maintenance procedures, including a fusing pr

35、ess information chart, shall be required to ensure proper fusing press performance relative to temperature control evenness in the pressure head or roller contact, dwell time, and cleanliness. Results of fusing press maintenance shall be recorded on Figure 1. Results of production maintenance proced

36、ures shall be recorded on Figure 2. 3.2.5 Pocketina cloth. The material for the inside breast pockets shall be polyester and cotton, or polyester and rayon matching the shade of the basic fabric or dyed black, and shall conform to class 2 of A-A-52106, except that the colorfastness requirements for

37、perspiration and crocking shall not apply. 3.2.6 Undercollar material. The material for the undercollar shall be a wool-blend, felt-fabric composite, USAF Blue, Shade No. 1620, conforming to MIL-C-29137. 3.2.7 Floating chest piece. The floating chest piece for the coat shall conform to type XVIII of

38、 MIL-C-15065 (haircloth), Class 2 of A-A-52105 (hymo) and type III, Class 11A of A-A-50823 (felt). 3.2.8 Labels. Each coat shall have a combination size- identification label, a size label, and an instruction label. All labels shall conform to DDD-L-20 and shall show itgood“ colorfastness to dryclea

39、ning. 3.2.8.1 Combination size and identification label. The combination label shall conform to type VI, classes 1 and 2 combined. 3.2.8.2 Size label. The size label shall conform to type VI, class 2. 3.2.8.3 Instruction label. The instruction label shall conform to type VI, class 3. The letters for

40、 the caption shall be not less than 3/16 inch in height and all other letters shall be not less than 1/8 inch in height. The contents of the label shall be as follows: COATS,.WOMA“S, AIR FORCE BLUE 1. Dry clean only, low moisture. 2. Remove wrinkles or gloss with a steam iron or with a hot iron usin

41、g a damp press cloth. 3. Roll press sleeves and lapels. 4. utility press only. 6 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-C-31005 = 999990b LA4LA 945 = MIL-C-31005 3.2.8.4 Label/taq. Each item shall be individually bar-coded with the type

42、VIII, class 17 label/tag of DDD-L-20. This label/tag shall be located so that it is completely visible on the item when it is folded and/or packaged as specified and so that it causes no damage to the item. 3.2.9 Shoulder Dads. The shoulder pads shall conform to type I, class 1 of MIL-P-15064 or typ

43、e III, Class 1 of MIL-P-15064 except the width at the vertical center shall be 1/2 inch. 3.2.10 Sleeve-head Dads. The sleeve-head pads shall conform 3.2.11 Stav taDes. The tapes for staying the armhole and to type IV of MIL-P-15064. bridle shall be cotton, conforming to type I, class 1, 2, or 3 of A

44、-A-52071, except that the nonfibrous material content shall not apply. The color shall be natural, bleached, or black. The tape for the bridle shall be 1/2 inch wide. The tape for staying the armhole shall be 1/4 inch wide. The tape for staying the back neckline shall be cross-cut, and made from nat

45、ural or dyed black polyester-blend cloth conforming to class 1 of A-A-52106. The raw edges of the tape shall be treated with a synthetic resin to prevent raveling. The tape for the neckline shall be 1/2 inch wide. 3.2.11.1 Fusible bridle taise. The fusible bridle tape shall be straight-cut, dyed bla

46、ck or charcoal, conforming to MIL-C-44296, type V, class 2, style A or B, with a width of 3/4 (+ 1/32) inch. The 3/4-inch edges shall be sewn using a LSa-1 seam, 304 stitch, at 12 to 16 stitches per inch, and a 70/2 thread conforming to A-A-50199. All sewn edges shall be within the fusible dot area

47、such that the adhesive will not exhibit any stitch breaks or blank area on either side of the stitching. As an alternate, nonfusible tape, as specified in 3.2.11, may be used for the bridle. 3.2.12 Braid 3.2.12.1 Hanser braid. The braid for the coat hanger shall be cotton or rayon, tubular braid, fl

48、at, 1/8 to 3/16 inch wide, black in color, conforming to type IX, class 1 of MIL-B-371. 3.2.13 Thread 3.2.13.1 Thread, polvester core; cotton-, or isolvester- covered. The cotton or polyester-covered, polyester core thread shall conform to A-A-50199. For seaming and stitching of the coat, Ticket Nos

49、. 50 and 70, 2-ply shall be used. For button sewing, Ticket No. 30, 2 or 3 ply shall be used. The color of the threads shall be as indicated in 3.2.13.4. As am alternate, a cotton thread in accordance to A-A-52094 may be used. 7 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-C-31005 9999906 1988419 881 MIL-(2-31005 3.2.13.2 Thread. nylon. The nylon thread used for the