ASTM D5646-2013(2018) 9375 Standard Terminology Relating to Seams and Stitches Used in Home Sewing.pdf

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1、Designation: D5646 13 (Reapproved 2018)Standard Terminology Relating toSeams and Stitches Used in Home Sewing1This standard is issued under the fixed designation D5646; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year oforiginal adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of la

2、st revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. Asuperscript epsilon () indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.1. Scope1.1 This terminology covers basic stitches made by sewingmachines designed for home use and provides a uniform, easilyunders

3、tood language for the definitions and descriptions ofseams and seam finishes used in home sewing.1.1.1 These terms and definitions are not necessarily con-sistent with those used in the apparel or home furnishingsmanufacturing industries.1.1.1.1 This terminology provides a common base for use inthe

4、preparation of educational materials and pattern guidesheets for home sewing.1.1.1.2 Each stitch is identified with a definition, a discus-sion of how the stitch is formed and might be used and anillustration of one or more possible stitch patterns. Thisterminology does not include stitches made by

5、sergers,hemmers, or by attachments to the home sewing machines.1.1.1.3 These seams and seam finishes may be produced ona conventional sewing machine or by hand.1.1.1.4 Other seam types or finishes may be more appropri-ate if equipment other than the conventional sewing machine isavailable.1.1.1.5 Se

6、ction 3, Terminology, is categorized into twosubsections, specific to the two areas of specialization underthis document: Relating to Seams and Relating to Stitches.1.2 This standard does not purport to address all of thesafety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is theresponsibility of th

7、e user of this standard to establish appro-priate safety, health, and environmental practices and deter-mine the applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use.1.3 This international standard was developed in accor-dance with internationally recognized principles on standard-ization establishe

8、d in the Decision on Principles for theDevelopment of International Standards, Guides and Recom-mendations issued by the World Trade Organization TechnicalBarriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.2. Referenced Documents2.1 ASTM Standards:2D123 Terminology Relating to TextilesD6193 Practice for Stitches and

9、 Seams2.2 Federal Standard:3Fed. Std. 751a, Stitches, Seams and Stitching3. TerminologyRELATING TO SEAMSback side, nin textile materials, the side of the material thatfaces innermost in the completed product. (Ant. face side,right side. Syn. wrong side.)bound seam-finish, nin home sewing, a seam fin

10、ish in whichanother material is used to enclose the cut edges of one ormore seam allowances. (Compare Hong Kong seam finish.)(See Fig. 1.)DISCUSSIONA bound seam-finish is made by (1) enclosing the cutseam allowance edge(s) in another fabric and (2) machine stitchingthrough all thicknesses close to t

11、he edge of the binding. Material usedmay be strips of lightweight bias-cut woven fabric or lightweight knitfabric such as tricot or net. If tape or binding is used, the wider fold sideof the tape or binding is positioned underneath the seam allowance.Usually each seam allowance edge is enclosed indi

12、vidually; however,seam allowances may be placed together and treated as one, such as thearmscye seam allowances of an unlined jacket or on a bound neckline.clean-finish seam finish, nin home sewing, a seam finish inwhich the cut edge is folded under and the fold line is edgestitched. (See Fig. 2.) (

13、Syn. turned and stitched seamfinish.)DISCUSSIONA clean-finish seam finish is made by (1) turning undereach cut edge of a plain seam allowance approximately 3 to 6 mm (18to14 in.) and (2) stitching close to the folded edge. A stabilizing line ofstitching 3 to 6 mm (18 to14 in.) from a curved cut edge

14、 will facilitateturning before stitching close to the plex seam, n in home sewing, a seam made in two ormore steps. (Ant. plain seam.)1This terminology is under the jurisdiction ofASTM Committee D13 on Textilesand is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.54 on Subassemblies.Current edition a

15、pproved July 1, 2018. Published August 2018. Originallyapproved in 1994. Last previous edition approved in 2013 as D5646 13. DOI:10.1520/D5646-13R18.2For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, orcontact ASTM Customer Service at serviceastm.org. For Annual Book of ASTMStanda

16、rds volume information, refer to the standards Document Summary page onthe ASTM website.3Printed in 1965 as Federal Standard No. 751a, Stitches, Seams and Stitching,General Services Administration, Washington, D.C. 20407. Available from Stan-dardization Documents Order Desk, Bldg. 4 Section D, 700 R

17、obbins Ave.,Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094, Attn: NPODS.Copyright ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959. United StatesThis international standard was developed in accordance with internationally recognized principles on standardization established in t

18、he Decision on Principles for theDevelopment of International Standards, Guides and Recommendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.1DISCUSSIONComplex seams have one or more stitching lines as partof their construction and include double-welt seams,

19、 flat-felled seams,French seams, lapped seams, mock French seams, slot seams, tuckedseams, and welt seams. They do not include plain seams or seamfinishes or decorative additions to seams.double-welt seam, nin home sewing, a complex seamformed on the inside of the product, in which one trimmedseam a

20、llowance is enclosed and two rows of stitching arevisible on the face side. (Compare welt seam. Syn. mockflat-felled seam.) (See Fig. 3.)DISCUSSIONA double-welt seam is made like a welt seam exceptthat it has a second row of topstitching close to the original seamline.The three rows of stitching vis

21、ible on the back side are the originalseam line, the row of stitching through the outermost layer of the sewnproduct and the wider of the seam allowances, and the row added nearthe original seam line.edge-stitched seam finish, nin home sewing, a seam finish inwhich machine stitching is placed close

22、to the cut edge ofeach seam allowance. (Compare zigzagged seam finish.)(See Fig. 4.)DISCUSSIONAn edge-stitched seam finish is made by straightstitching approximately 3 to 6 mm (18 to14 in.) from each cut edge ofeach seam allowance.face side, nin textile materials, the side of the material thatis out

23、ermost in the completed product. (Ant. back side,wrong side. Syn. right side.)flat-felled seam, nin home sewing, a complex seam formedon the outside of a product with cut edges enclosed and tworows of machine stitching visible from the face side. (SeeFig. 5.)DISCUSSIONA flat-felled seam is made by (

24、1) stitching a basic seamwith the back sides together, (2 ) pressing both seam allowances to oneside, (3) trimming the under seam allowance to approximately18 in. (3mm), (4) turning under the cut edge of the upper seam allowance, and(5) topstitching close to the fold.French seam, n in home sewing, a

25、 complex seam formed onthe inside of a product with both cut edges enclosed and nostitching rows visible on the face side. (Compare mockFrench seam.) (See Fig. 6.)DISCUSSIONA French seam is made by (1) placing two sections offabric with back sides together, (2) stitching a seam line 10 mm (38 in.)fr

26、om the cut edges, (3) pressing the seam open, (4) trimming the seamallowance to 3 mm (18 in.) if the fabric does not ravel easily, or toslightly less than 6 mm (14 in.) if the fabric ravels easily, (5) clippingor notching the curved seam allowances such that they respectively willfit the larger or s

27、maller area, against which they will be pressed, (6 )folding the face sides of the fabric together, (7) pressing again with thestitched seamline exactly on the folded edge, and (8) stitching 6 mmfrom the folded edge. By using this procedure, the cut edges of thetrimmed seam allowance are enclosed co

28、mpletely. The two seamallowances make a total of 15 mm (58 in.), the standard seam allowancewidth. No stitching lines are visible from the face side. French seamsare more appropriate for straight seams than curved seams.FIG. 1 Bound Seam Finish from Back Side of FabricFIG. 2 Clean-Finish Seam Finish

29、 from Back Side of FabricFIG. 3 Double-Welt Seam from Face Side of FabricFIG. 4 Edge-Stitched Seam Finish from Back Side of FabricFIG. 5 Flat-Felled Seam from Face Side of FabricD5646 13 (2018)2glued seam, nin home sewing, a seam formed by the use ofan adhesive. (Compare sewn seam, stapled seam, the

30、r-mally bonded seam.)DISCUSSIONAdhesive may be glue, heat-fusible web or powder, orhot glue.hand-overcast seam finish, nin home sewing, a seam finishin which hand stitches are sewn such that the thread wrapsaround the cut edges of each seam allowance. (See Fig. 7.)DISCUSSIONA hand-overcase seam fini

31、sh is made by using a needleand thread to form stitches that are approximately 6 mm (14 in.) apartand3to6mm(18 to14 in.) inside the cut edges of the seam allowance.The cut edge of each seam allowance is wrapped by the thread thatpasses over the edge.Hong Kong seam finish, nin home sewing, a seam fin

32、ish inwhich a binding fabric is used to encase the cut edge of eachseam allowance separately and in which the binding fabrichas one cut edge enclosed and the other cut edge exposed.(Compare bound seam finish.) (See Fig. 8.)DISCUSSIONA Hong Kong seam finish is made by (1 ) selecting astrip of lightwe

33、ight bias-cut woven fabric, lightweight knit such astricot or tulle, or commercial bias tape pressed open (25 mm (1 in.)wide), (2) placing the bias strip against a seam allowance, face sidestogether and cut edges even, (3) stitching 6 mm (14 in.) from the cutedges, (4) pressing the binding away from

34、 the seam and over the cutedge toward the underside of the seam allowance, and (6) stitching inthe previously formed stitching line on the face side of the seamallowance, thus securing the under layer of the folded binding to theunder side of the seam allowance (sometimes called“ stitch-in-the-ditch

35、”). The excess binding fabric may be trimmed close to thestitching.inside seam, n in home sewing, a seam having seamallowances located within the interior, or the underside, ofthe product. (Compare outside seam.)DISCUSSIONExamples of inside seams include double-welt seams,French seams, lapped seams,

36、 mock French seams, slot seams, tuckedseams, and welt seams.joining line, nSee seam.lapped seam, na class of seams which requires that plies ofmaterials are lapped and seamed with one or more rows ofstitches.DISCUSSIONLapped seams are identified by the letters, LS, as shownin Practice D6193.turned a

37、nd stitched seam finish, nSee clean finished seamfinish.lapped seam for leather or nonwoven material, nin homesewing, a complex seam formed on the outside of theproduct, with neither cut edge enclosed and having one ortwo rows of stitching and a cut edge visible from the outside.(Compare lapped seam

38、 for woven or knitted fabric.) (SeeFig. 9(a) and (d).)DISCUSSIONA lapped seam for leather or nonwoven fabric is madeby (1) marking the corresponding seamlines on both pieces, (2)trimming off the entire seam allowance (15 mm (58 in.) on the overlapor top section, (3) lapping the cut edge of the trimm

39、ed overlap sectionover the bottom section, butting the cut edge to the marked seamlinebeneath, and (4) gluing in place and topstitching with one or two rowsof stitching. Both gluing and topstitching may be used. This seam isused on leather, nonwoven leather-like material, and vinyl where anexposed c

40、ut edge is not a concern.lapped seam for woven or knitted fabric, nin home sewing,a complex seam formed on the inside of the product withneither raw cut edge enclosed, and having one visible line oftopstitching on the face side and a small fold formed by thetopstitching. (Compare tucked seam.) (See

41、Fig. 10.)FIG. 6 French Seam from Back Side of FabricFIG. 7 Hand-Overcast Seam Finish from Back Side of FabricFIG. 8 Hong Kong Seam Finish from Back Side of Fabric(a) (d)FIG. 9 Lapped Seam for Leather or Nonwoven Fabric from FaceSide of MaterialD5646 13 (2018)3DISCUSSIONA lapped seam for woven or kni

42、tted fabric is made by(1) folding under the seam allowance of the overlapping section alongthe 15-mm (58-in.) seamline and pressing, then (2) working from theright side and pinning the folded edge over the underlap section withthe fold along the seamline, and (3) stitching close to the fold througha

43、ll layers. Basting before stitching may be needed.material, nin home sewing, a planar structure such as textilefabric, plastic film, or leather.DISCUSSION“Materials” used may include fabric, fur, leather andplastic film. Joining methods for seams may vary.mock flat-felled seam, nSee double-welt seam

44、.mock French seam, nin home sewing, a complex seamformed on the inside of the product with cut edges enclosedand no stitching visible on the face side; similar in appear-ance to the French seam but constructed differently. (Com-pare French seam.) (See Fig. 11.)DISCUSSIONA mock French seam is made by

45、 (1) placing two piecesof fabric with face sides together, (2) stitching on the 15-mm (58-in.)seamline, (3) trimming both seam allowances to 12 mm (12 in.), (4)clipping or notching, as appropriate, 3 mm (18 in.) on any curved edgesso that curved seam allowances can fit the area against which they ar

46、efolded and pressed, (5) pressing open the seam, (6) then folding andpressing each of the seam allowances 6 mm (14 in.) toward the otherand the seamline, bringing the folded edges together, and (7) stitchingthe two seam allowances together 1.5 mm (116 in.) from the foldededges. Mock French seams are

47、 more appropriate for curved areas thanFrench seams.outside seam, n in home sewing, a seam in which the seamallowance of the completed seam is visible from the faceside of the sewn product. (Compare inside seam.)DISCUSSIONAn example of an outside seam is the flat-felled seam.plain seam, nin home sew

48、ing, a seam formed by a single lineof stitching. (Ant. complex seam.) (See Figs. 12 and 13.)DISCUSSIONA plain seam joins two or more material sections;multiple layers of material may be treated as a single layer or section.Cut edges of the seam allowance in a plain seam may or may not havea finish a

49、pplied. Sometimes a plain seam is reinforced by machinestitching again through both seam allowances together approximately 3to6mm(18 to14 in.) from the original seam line within the seamallowance. Reinforcement is appropriate for armscye, crotch, andwaistline seams. Reinforcement stitching may be along a section of aseam (as in a crotch seam) or along an entire seam (such as in awaistline seam). Seams that are reinforced are not pressed open.pinked seam finish, nin home sewing, a seam finish in whicha zigza