NAVY MIL-DTL-32021-1998 SKIRTS WOMEN-S - WHITE《女士白色裙子》.pdf

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1、MIL-DTL-32021 999990b 2061574 LT4 EH INCH-POUND MIL-DTL-32021 (MC) 13 Februarv 1998 DETAIL SPEC1 FI CAT I ON SKIRTS, WQMENS - WHITE This specification is approvea for use by U.S. Marine Corps, Department of the Navy, and is available for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defen

2、se. 1. SCOPE 1.1. Scope. Tnis specification covers the requirements for white polyester/rayon skirts. 1.2. Classification. following sizes and lengths (see 6.2): The skirts will be of one type in the Scheaule of sizes and lenqths Sizes: XO, 2, 4, 6, 8, IC, 12, 14, 16, 18 Lengths: Short, Regular and

3、Long 2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS 2.1. General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3 and 4 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification Beneficial comments (recommendations, aaditions, deletions) and any pertinent

4、 data which may be of use in improving this document should be addressed to the Commander (PSE-D), Marine Corps Systems Command, Quantico, VA 22134-5010 by using the Standardization Document, Improvement Proposal (DD Form 1426) appearing at the end of this document or by letter. AMSC N/A FSC 8410 DI

5、STRIBUTION STATEMENT A. distribution is unlimited. Approved for public release; Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-32021 999990b 20b1575 030 * MIL-DTL- 32 02 1 (MC) or recommended for additional information or as examples. While

6、every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements documents cited in sections 3 and 4 of this specification, whether or not they are listed. 2.2. Government documents. 2.2.1 Ssecifications, standards, and h

7、andbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbqoks form a part of this uocument to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those listed in the issue of the Department of Defense Index of Specifications and Standards (DoDISSJ and supple

8、ment thereto, cited in the solicitation (see 6.2). S EC 1 FI CAT IONS FEDERAL A-A- 50 19 8 - A-A-50 199 - A-A- 52 0 9 4 A-A- 52 1 O 6 - - V-B-871 - V-F-106 - DDD-L-20 - Thread, Girnp, Cotton, Buttonhole Thread, Polyester Core, Cotton or Polyester Covered Thread, Cotton Cloth, Twill or Plain Weave, P

9、olyester and Polyester Blend Button, Sewing Hole, and Button, Staple, (Plastic) Fastener, Slide, Interlocking Label: For Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage, (General Use) DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE MIL-C-3 68 - Cloth, Satin, Rayon and Cloth, Twill, Rayon MIL-B-37 1 - Braid, Textile, Tubular MIL-T-5237 - Tap

10、e, Textile; Webbing, Textile; Rayon MIL-C-41820 - Cloth, Gabardine, Polyester and Rayon MIL-C-44296 - Cloth, Fusible STANDARDS FEDERAL FED-STD-751 - Stitches, Seams and Stitchings 2 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-32022 RM Ob

11、20bl157b T77 m MIL-DTL-32021 (MC) DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE MIL-STD-984 - Provisions for Size Labeling of Womens MIL-STD-1609 - Provisions for Evaluating Quality of Womens Uniform Clothing Skirts (Unless otherwise indicated, copies of the above specifications, standards, handbooks are available from the

12、 Standardization Document Order Desk, 700 Robbins Avenue, Bililding 4D, Philadelphia, PA 1911I-O94. ) 2.3. Non-Government publications. The following dociment(s) form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of the documents which ore DoD adopted

13、 are listed in the issue of the DoDISS cited in the solicitation. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of documents not listed in the DoDISS are the issues of the documents cited in the solicitation (see 6.2). Department of Defense (DoD) Standard Color Card of Official Standardized Shades for Sewi

14、ng Threads 1968 Department of Defense (DoD) Standard Shades for Buttons 1966 (Application for copies should be addressed to the Color Association of the United States, Inc., 409 W. 44th Street, New York, NY 10016-0927. ) 2.4. Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this d

15、ocument and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained. Nothing in tnis document, 3. REQUIREMENTS 3.1. Standard sample. Standard samples, when furnished, are solely for gui

16、danc and information to the contractor (see 6.3). Variation from this specification may appear in the sample, in which case this specification shall govern. 3.2. First article. When specified (see 6-21, a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection in accordance with 4.3. 3 Provided by IHS

17、Not for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-32021 999990b 20bL577 903 MIL-DTL-32021 (MC) 3.3. Materials. 3.3.1 Basic materials. The basic material for the skirt shall be cloth, gabardine, polyester/rayon, white, shade 2400, 8 ounce, conforming to type I

18、II, class 1 of MIL-C-41820. 3.3.2 Lininq. The material for lining the skirts shall be cloth, twill, rayon, white, shade 2400, 3.7 ounces, conforming to class 1 of MIL-C-368. 3.3.3 Waistband interlinins. The waistband interlining and top ply of watch pocket material shall be white twill polyester and

19、 cotton conforming to class 1 of A-A-52106. As an alternate, a fusible waistband interlining conforming to type V, class 1, style B of MIL-C-44296 may be used. 3.3.0 Finishins taDe. The tape for finishing the bottom of the skirt and edges of back pleat shall be tape, textile, rayon conforming to typ

20、e I of MIL-T-5237. The color shall be the same as specified for thread in 3.3.6.2. 3.3.5 Hanser braid. braid, textile, tubular, conforming to type IX, class 1 of MIL-B-371. in 3.3.6.2. The braid for the skirt hangers shall be The color shall be the same as specified for thread 3.3.6 Thread. Cotton t

21、hread shall be used conforming to A-A-52094 as follows: Oper at i on Type Ticket No. Ply Buttonholes III O 3 Buttons II 16, 20 4 Seams, stitching I 70, 50 2 or 3 As an alternate to the cotton thread, a polyester, cotton-covered thread conforming to A-A-50199 ticket No. 50, 2 or 3 ply may be used for

22、 seaming and ticket No. 70, 2 ply may be used for over edging. . 3.3.6.1. Automatic button sewinq. sews and shanks (wraps) the buttons in one operation is used, the thread shall be waxed. If an automatic machine which 4 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without lic

23、ense from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-32023 iE Ob 2063578 84T MIL-DTL-32021 (MC) 3.3.6.2. Color. Standard Color Card of Official Standardized Shades for Sewing Threads 1968). The color of the thread shall be white (see DoD 3.3.7 Gimp. The gimp for reinforcing the buttonhole shall be cotton, ticket No. 8, confor

24、min- to type I or II of A-A-50198. The color of the gimp shall be the same as indicated for thread in 3.3.6.2. 3.3.8 Buttons. The buttons for the waistband shall be 27-line conforming to type II, class D, style 4 of V-E-871. The color of the buttons shaLl be white, shade BA, cable No. 62031 (see DoD

25、 Standard Shades for Buttons 1966) and shall have a glossy finish. 3.3.9 Slide fasteners. The slide fastener for the skirt shall be brass, white metal finish, 7 inches in length, interlocking non separating automatic lock, open top stop, closed bottom stop, single slider with short tab pull conformi

26、ng to type I, style 3, size 1 of V-F-106. The tape shall be cotton and the color shall be white. 1.3.10 Labels. 3.3.10.1.Labei. Each skirt shall have an identification and instruction label conforming to type VI, class 1 and 3 of DDD-L-20. The fastness to laundering requirements of DDD-L-20 shall ap

27、ply. percent wool. The content and format shall be as follows: The contents shall be 55 percer,t polyester and 45 Skirt, Womans Stock No.: 8410-00-000-0000 (Example) Contents: 55% polyester/45% wool Contract No.: DLA.100-93- (Example) Name of Contractor DRY CLEM ONLY 3.3.10.2.Size label. class 2 of

28、DDD-L-20 except the stockmxnber is not required. The inscription on the size label shall conform to MIL-STD-984; Table II Height Ranges, Table III Body Measurements for Marine Corps and Figure 2. The size label shall conform to type VI, 3.4. Desiqn. shown in Figures 1, 2, and 3, having a gore style

29、skirt with three front panels and two back panels, full lining, an opening The skirt shall be the U.S. Marine Corps design 5 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-32021 W 9999906 2061579 78b PATTERN NOMENCLATURE MIL-DTL-32 021 (MC)

30、NO. OF CUT PARTS at the top of the center back seam with a siide fastener closure, and a one-piece set-on waistband with both ends to button at the center opening. The skirt shall have a center back pleat and the bottom shall be pinked. Center front Side front Back Waistband Placket Watch pocket (bo

31、ttom ply) 3.5. Patterns. Standard patterns will be furnished to the contractor by the Government (see 6.3) The standard patterns shall not be altered in any way and shall be used only as a guide for cutting the contractors working.patterns. working patterns shall be identical to the standard pattern

32、s. Standard patterns show size, seam allowances, directional lines for cutting, and are marked or notched for proper placement and assembly of the component parts. allowance of 3 inches for hemming the bottom of the skirt. The contractors The patterns provide an 1 2 2 1 1 1 3.5.1 List of pattern par

33、ts. The skirts shall be cut from the materials specified herein in accordance with the pattern parts indicated below: Front Left back Right back I TEM 1 1 1 7 8 9 10 II 3.6. Construction. The skirts shall be manufactured in accordance with operation requirements as specified in Table I. The contract

34、or is not required to follow the exact sequence of operation as listed in Table I, but all operations specified shall be used to manufacture the skirts. Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-32021 0 9999906 2061580 4TB MIL-DTL-32021

35、 (MC) 3.6.1 Stitches, seams, and stitchinas. Stitch, seam, and stitching types specified in Table I shall conform to FED-STD-751. shall be specified in Table I. The minimum and maximum nWer of stitches per inch 3.6.1.1. Thread breaks and ends of seams. The ends of all seams ana stitching produced wi

36、th 331 stitch type, when not caught in other seams or stitching, shall be backstitched not less than ?/4 inch. Thread breaks (all stitch types) shall be secured by stitching back of the break not less than 1/2 inch. Skipped stitches may be repaired by using 301 stitch type. The ends of a continuous

37、line of stitching shall be overlapped not less than 1/2 inch. 1/2 inch. When an automatic dart machine is used, the ends shall be backstitched not less than three stitches. Thread ends of darts shall be trimmed to a length of 3.6.2 Buttonhole. The buttonhole shall be eyelet end, taper bar type. The

38、finished cut length of buttonhole shall be 3/4 inch. 3.6.3 Pressinq. Pressing as required iri Table I snall be accomplished with a heated pressing iron or machine. 3.6.4 Shade markinq. The component parts shall be marked to ensure a uniform shade and size throughout the skirt. of shade markiq may be

39、 used except: Any method a. Corrosive metal fastening devices. b. Sew-on shade tickets. c. Adhesive type tickets which show discoloration or leave traces of paper or adhesive mass to the material upon removal of the tickets. 7 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted with

40、out license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-32021 - 999990b 2063583 334 D b. Cut all materials in the direction indicated by directional lines on pattern. The directional line shall be placed in the warp direction of the cloth unless otherwise indicated on the pattern. c. Cut component parts of skirt from one

41、piece of basic material, except placket, which may be cut from ends. d. Cut front and back lining parts of the skirt from one piece of lining material. NOTE: The back lining my be cut on the selvage. e. Cut braid for skirt hangers in lengths of 4 i 1/8 incnes. Each skirt shall be provided with two h

42、angers. f. Cut hem tapes not less than 65 inches long (see operation 26) and 18 inches long for edges of the kick pleat. Replacement of damaaed parts. a. Replace at time of cutting any part of the skirt containing holes OL seriously weakening defects such as smashes, multiple floats, loose weakening

43、 slubs, etc., expected to develop into holes, shade bars and dye streaks or unsightly slubs, etc. b. Replace any part damaged during manufacturing process by needle chews which may develop into a hole, scissor or knife cuts, tears, holes, mends or burns in the material. c NO MIL-DTL-32C21 (MC) TABLE

44、 I. Manufacturing requirements. OPERATION Cuttinq. a. Cut the skirt in strict accordance with patterns furnished by the Government. STCH TYPE SEAM/ STCH TYPE TCH/IN NDL . BOB/ LPR 8 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-. - NC NIL-DTL-ZOIJ

45、D 9999906 2061582 270 = MIL-DTL-3202? (MC) TABLE I. Manufacturina reqxirements - Continued. O PE RAT I ON shade markinq. P. Mark, ticket or bundle all omponent parts (see 3.6.4) cut from me piece of basic material, except :hose parts cut from ends, to emure miform shade and size throughout the skirt

46、 - Toin front and back skirt panels. i. Join the side front panels to the :enter front panel with a 3/4 inch seam allowance and with notches natching. The ends of the seam shall start and finish evenly at the sem. Line - 3. notch to the mark at the top of the kick pleat, join the back panels with L

47、1 inch seam allowance. The ends of the seams shall start and finish evenly at the seam .line. Tape edcres of kick pleat. a. The edges of the kick pleat shall be taped from the top of curve to bottom of unfinished hem. Place the left edge of tape to the top raw edge of pleat opening snd stitch 1/8 in

48、ch from the edge. Turn tape to underside of basic fabric and blindstitch other edge of tape CO the underside of skirt. From the bottom of the upper Over edqe seams. a. The raw edges of the seam allowance on the front and back parts shall be neatly over edge stitched. b. The center back seam shall be

49、 over edged together from the bottom of zipper (at the right side notch) to the curve at the top of the kick pleat. NOTE: Care shall be exercised durinolyester/cotton twill side of the ,ocket to the top raw edge of the right front of the skirt waist. The lotch of the pocket shall be 1 inch in from the side seam. Join the ?ocket to the skirt waist with a 3/8 inch seam from notch to notch forming 3 4