DLA MIL-T-29452 A-1994 TROUSERS MEN-S POLYESTER WOOL《涤纶 羊毛男士长裤》.pdf

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1、I I L J I INCH POUNDI MIL-T-29452A 18 March 1994 SUPERSEDING 20 January 1988 MIL-T-29452(MC) MILITARY SPECIFICATION TROUSERS, MENS: POLYESTER/WOOL This specification is approved for use by all departments and agencies of the Department of Defense. 1. SCOPE 1.1 Scope. This specification covers the re

2、quirements for mens polyester/wool trousers. 1.2 Classification. The trousers shall be of one type, in the following classes and sizes as specified (see 6.2): Class 1 - Polyester/Wool Gabardine, Shade 2212 Class 2 - Polyester/Wool Gabardine, Shade 2319 Beneficial comments (recommendations, additions

3、, deletions) and any pertinent data which may be of use in improving this document should be addressed to: Defense Personnel Support Center, Clothing and Textiles Directorate, Attn: DPSC-FSSD, 2800 South 20th Street, Philadelphia, PA 19101-8419, by using the Standardization Document Improvement Prop

4、osal (DD Form 1426) appearing at the end of this document or by letter. AMSC N/A FSC 8405 DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited. Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-T-29452A D 9999906 1974014

5、 O09 MIL-T-29452A Schedule of Sizes Waist Sizes 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, 35, 36, 37, 38, 39, 40, 41, 42, 43, 44, 45, 46 Lengths X-Short, Short, Regular, Long, X-Long 2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS 2.1 Government documents 2.1.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specificatio

6、ns, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents shall be those listed in the issue of the Department of Defense Index of Specifications and Standards (DODISS) and supplement thereto, cited in the soli

7、citation (see 6.2). SPECIFICATIONS FEDERAL A-A-5 O 186 A-A-50 19 8 A-A-5 O 19 9 A-A-52094 A-A-52 106 V-B-871 V-F-106 V-T-295 NN-P-71 UU-P-26 8 DDD-L-20 MI LI TARY MIL-C-10176 MIL-P-15011 MIL-B-17757 - Cloth, Buckram, Woven and Nonwoven - Thread, Gimp, Cotton, Buttonhole - Thread, Polyester Core: Cot

8、ton- - Thread, Cotton - Cloth, Twill or Plain Weave, Polyester or Polyester Blend - Button, Sewing Hole, and Button, Staple (Plastic) - Fasteners, Slide, Interlocking - Thread, Nylon - Pallet, Material Handling, Wood, Stringer Construction, 2 Way and 4 Way (Partial) or Polyester-Covered - Paper, Kra

9、ft, Wrapping - Label, For Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage, (General Use) - Cloth, Gabardine: Wool, Polyester and Wool - Pallet, Material Handling, Wood, Post Construction, 4 Way Entry - Box, Shipping, Fiberboard (Modular Sizes) 2 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted w

10、ithout license from IHS-,-,-MIL-T-29452A 9999906 1974015 T45 MIL-T-29452A MI LI TARY MIL-C-43920 STANDARDS FEDERAL FED-STD-751 MILITARY - Cloth, Interlining, Cotton or Synthetic and Nylon - Stitches, Seams and Stitchings MIL-STD-129 - Marking for Shipment and Storage MIL-STD-147 - Palletized Unit Lo

11、ad MIL-STD-1488 - Provisions for Evaluating Quality of Trousers (Unless otherwise indicated, copies of Federal and military specifications, standards and handbooks are available from the Standardization Documents Order Desk, Bldg. 4D, 700 Robbins Avenue, Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094.) 2.2 Non-Governm

12、ent publications. The following documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of the documents which are DoD adopted shall be those listed in the issue of the DODISS cited in the solicitation. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of d

13、ocuments not listed in the DODISS are the issues of the documents cited in the solicitation (see 6.2). NATIONAL MOTOR FREIGHT TRAFFIC ASSOCIATION, INC., AGENT National Motor Freight Classification (Applications for copies should be addressed to the American Trucking Association, ATTN: Traffic Depart

14、ment, 1616 P Street, N.W., Washington, DC 20036-1404.) UNIFORM CLASSIFICATION COMMITTEE, AGENT Uniform Freight Classification (Applications for copies should be addressed to the Uniform Classification Committee, Room 1106, 222 South Riverside Plaza, Chicago, Illinois 60606-5808.) 3 Provided by IHSNo

15、t for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-THE COLOR ASSOCIATION OF THE UNITED STATES , Department of Defense Standard Shades For Sewing Threads Department of Defense Standard Shades For Buttons (Applications for copies should be addressed to the Color Associati

16、on of the United States, 409 W 44th St., New York, NY 10016-0927). (Non-Government standards and other publications are normally available from the organizations that prepare or distribute the documents. These documents also may be available in or through libraries or other informational services.)

17、2.3 Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained. 3. REQUIREMEN

18、TS 3.1 Guide sample. Samples, when furnished, are solely for guidance and information to the contractor (see 6.2). Variations from this specification may appear in the sample, in which case this specification shall govern. 3.2 First article. When specified, (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to

19、first article inspection, in accordance with 4.4 and 6.4. 3.3 Materials 3.3.1 Basic material. The basic material for each class of trousers shall be as follows: a. Class 1. Cloth, 10.6 ounce, polyester/wool gabardine, green, shade 2212 conforming to type II, class 12, of MIL-C-10176. b. Class 2. Clo

20、th, 10.6 ounce, polyester/wool gabardine, sky blue, shade 2319 conforming to type II, class 12 of MIL-C-10176. 3.3.1.1 Recycled materials. It is encouraged that recycled materials be used when practical as long as the materials meet the requirements of this specification. 4 Provided by IHSNot for Re

21、saleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-T-29452A m 9999906 II9740II7 818 m MIL-T-29452A 3.3.2 Lininq, interlininq and pocketinq 3.3.2.1 Lininq and interlininq. The material for lining the waistband, right fly, pocket flaps, crotch, left fly interlining, and pocke

22、t stay shall be black polyester, polyester and cotton, or polyester and rayon cloth conforming to class 1 of A-A-52106. 3.3.2.2 Pocketinq. The pocketing material shall be black polyester, polyester and cotton, or polyester and rayon cloth conforming to class 1 of A-A-52106. 3.3.3 Buckram. The materi

23、al for interlining waistband shall be bleached or unbleached cloth, cotton, buckram conforming to type II of A-A-50186. 3.3.4 Waistband stabilizer. The material for the waistband stabilizer shall be cloth, interlining, cotton or synthetic and nylon conforming to type 1 of MIL-C-43920. 3.3.5 Slide fa

24、stener. The slide fastener for each class of trousers shall be type I, style 1, cam lock, size LS, short tab pull, brass chain, conforming to V-F-106, except the salt spray test shall not apply. A staple bottom stop is required. All components of the slide fastener shall be brass and from the same s

25、upplier (see 4.5.1). The tape shall be cotton, synthetic, or a combination. 3.3.5.1 Color. The color of the slide fastener tape shall be as follows: Class 1 - Green Shade AF, Cable No. 66531 Class 2 - Blue Shade AA, Cable No. 66527 3.3.5.2 Colorfastness. The dyed slide fastener tape shall show color

26、fastness to wet dry-cleaning equal to or better than the standard sample when tested as specified to V-F-106. When no standard sample is available, the tape shall show “good“ colorfastness when tested as specified in V-F-106. 3.3.6 Hook and eye. The hook and eye shall be North and Judd (Hook Flex H-

27、49, K-50, H-89 and E-90); Universal Button Co. (Talon #3, #7, and #8 hook with #8 eye or #85 eye); Akim Co. or Patwin, Inc., Junior Series, type JB; Stimpson (P-536, D-4086, D-4457, D-4288); Rau (OA50, OX 1256, 080415); Patwin, Inc. (Slim- Slak with MB eye, and Slik-Slak) or equal. The finish shall

28、be nickel plate. Prior to use of an “or equal“ item, the supplier shall submit the item with supporting data to the contracting officer for approval (see 4.5.1). Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-T-29452A D 9999906 1974018 754 MIL-T

29、-29452A 3.3.7 Thread. Cotton thread shall be used conforming to A-A-52094 as follows: I Operation Type Ticket No. Outside Stitching, bar- tacks, buttonholes and ornamental strip III O 3 Seaming and stitching I 30, 50 3 I 70 2 Automatic machine pocket construction III Inside Stitching I A 3 50 3 70 2

30、 Button Sewing II 16, 24 4 As an alternate to the cotton thread, a polyester, cotton-covered thread conforming to A-A-50199, ticket No. 50, 2 ply or ticket No. 70, 2 ply may be used for all sewing operations. which sews and shanks (wraps) the buttons in one operation is used, the thread shall be wax

31、ed nylon monocord special No. 5, having a minimum breaking strength of 16 pounds and a minimum length per pound of 2150 yards. This thread shall be tested for these requirements and for colorfastness (see 3.3.7.3) in accordance with the test methods in V-T-295. 3.3.7.1 Automatic button sewinq. If an

32、 automatic machine 3.3.7.2 Color. The color of the thread for each class of trousers shall conform to the following: Class 1 - Olive Drab T-1, Cable No. 66023 Class 2 - Navy Blue AT, Cable No. 66060 NOTE: See DOD Standard Color Card of Official Standardized Shades for Sewing Threads 3.3.7.3 Colorfas

33、tness. The colored thread shall show fastness to light and wet dry-cleaning equal to or better than the standard sample. When no standard sample is available, the colored thread shall show “good“ fastness to light and wet dry- cleaning. 6 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking pe

34、rmitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-T-29452A = 999990b 1974019 b90 3.3.8 Gimp. The gimp for reinforcing buttonholes shall be cotton, No. 8, conforming to type I or II of A-A-50198. 3.3.8.1 Color. The color requirements for the gimp for each class of trousers, shall be the same as specified in 3

35、.3.7.2 for the thread. 3.3.8.2 Colorfastness, The colored gimp shall show fastness to wet dry-cleaning equal to or better than the standard sample. When no standard sample is available, the colored gimp shall show “good“ fastness to wet dry-cleaning. . 3.3.9 Buttons. The buttons for the hip pocket a

36、nd fly-tab closure shall conform to type II, class D, style 4, 22-line, glossy finish, of V-B-871. The color of the buttons for each class of trousers shall be as follows (see DOD Standard Shades for Buttons): Class 1 - Green, Shade AF, Cable No. 62017 Class 2 - Blue, Shade BV, Cable No. 62003 3.3.1

37、0 Labels. Each pair of trousers shall have a combination identification-size-instruction label. The combination label shall conform to type VI, class 14 of DDD-L-20. The label shall conform to the colorfastness and writing test requirements of combination label shall be as follows: DDD-L-20. The con

38、tent (inscription) and format of the Trousers, Mens, Tropical (Example) Fiber Content: 55% Polyester/45% Wool (Example) Size: 38R (Example) NSN: 8405-00-000-0000 (Example) Name of Contractor: Contract Number: DLA 100-00-0-0000 (Example) DRY CLEAN ONLY 3.3.11 Label/taq. Each item shall be individuall

39、y bar- coded with the type VIII, class 17 label/tag of DDD-L-20. This label/tag shall be located so that it is completely visible on the item when it is folded and/or packaged as specified and so that it causes no damage to the garment. 3.4 Desiqn. The trousers shall be the US Marine Corps design as

40、 shown on Figure 1 having a two-piece, lined waistband with hook and eye closure and outlet at seat seam; french type fly with slide fastener; 7 belt loops for sizes up to and including size 37 and 8 belt loops for sizes 38 and up; straight side pockets; hip pockets with pocket flaps to button; outl

41、et from crotch to knee at inseam and unfinished leg bottom. 7 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-T-27452A m 9777906 1774020 302 MIL-T-29452A 3.5 Patterns. Standard patterns to be used to cut working patterns will be furnished by the

42、Government (see 6.3). The working patterns shall be identical to the Government patterns. Neither the Government patterns nor the working patterns shall be altered in any way, except that additional notches for use during construction are allowed on the working patterns. Also, minor modifications ar

43、e permitted where necessary when using automatic equipment. These modifications shall not alter the dimensional, serviceability or appearance requirements cited in the specification. The standard patterns provide an allowance of 1/4 inch for pocket flaps, and a 3/8 inch seam allowance for all other

44、seams except seat seams and inseam of back part; 7/8 inch has been added to the seat seam allowances (total 1-1/4 inches at top) to allow for tapering the seat outlet and 3/4 inch has been added to the inseam of back part (total 1-1/8 inches at top) to allow for tapering the inseam outlet of back pa

45、rts. Unless otherwise indicated in Table I, seams shall be in accordance with these seam allowances. 3.5.1 Pattern parts. The component parts of the trousers shall be cut from the materials specified herein in accordance with the number of pattern parts indicated below, except belt loops and waistba

46、nd lining/interlining. (See Table I, operation 1, for cutting requirements for these components). No. of Item Pattern Nomenclature cut parts Material: Basic 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. Front Back Right fly Fly tab (alternate) L/ Left fly Side pocket wide facing (bearer) Side pocket narrow facing Hip

47、pocket bearer Hip pocket flap (classes 1 and 2) Waistband 2 2 1 2 1 2 2 4 2 2 Material: Lining/interlining 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. Right fly lining Crotch lining Side pocket stay Left fly interlining Hip pocket flap lining (classes 1 and 2) 2 8 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking

48、permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-T-29452A M 999990b L97402L 249 MIL-T-29452A a Item Pattern Nomenclature No. of cut parts Material: Pocketing 15. 16. Side pocket Hip pocket 2 2 - i/ When the fly tab is used, eliminate the right fly with integrated fly tab and cut right fly from same patter

49、n as the left fly. - 2/ When the flaps are self-lined, cut 4. 3.6. Stitches, seams, and stitchinqs. Stitch, seam and stitching types specified in Table I shall conform to FED-STD-751. Whenever two or more methods for seam or stitch types are given for the same part of the operation, any one of them may be used. Where stitch type 401 is used, the looper (under thread) shall be on the inside of the trousers. Seam a