NAVY MIL-DTL-29477 A-1997 SKIRT WOMAN-S - EVENING DRESS MUSICIAN MATERNITY《音乐家女士夜礼服裙子》.pdf

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1、_ IIL-DTL-29477A m 9999906 2055g76 857 m INCH-POUND MIL-DTL-2 9477A (MC) SUPERSEDING MIL-S-29477 (MC) 12 July 1995 8 October 1997 DETAIL SPECIFICATION SKIRT, WOMANS - EVENING DRESS, MUSICIAN,MATERNITY This specification is approved for use by U.S. Marine Corps, Department of the Navy, and is availab

2、le for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense. 1. SCOPE 1.1. Scope. This specification covers requirements for maternity skirts for the U.S. Marine Corps Band. 1.2. Classification. The skirts will be of one type in the following classes and sizes as specified (see 6.2). Cla

3、ss 1 - Polyester/Wool, Gabardine, Sky Blue, Shade 2319 Class 2 - Polyester/Rayon, Gabardine, White, Shade 2400 Class 3 - Polyester/Wool, Gabardine, Dark Blue, Shade 2312 I 1 Beneficial comments (recommendations, additions, deletions) and any pertinent data which may be of use in improving this docum

4、ent should be addressed to the Commander (PSE-D), Marine Corps Systems Command, Quantico, VA 22134-5010 by using the Standardization Document Improvement Proposal (DD Form 1426) appearing at the end of this document or by letter. AMSC N/A FSC 8410 DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public releas

5、e; distribution is unlimited. Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- MIL-DTL-29477A 999990b 2055477 793 MIL-DTL-2 9477A (MC) Schedule of sizes Extra small Small Medium Large Extra large (2) (4-6) (8-10) (12-14) (16-18 ) 2. APPLICABLE DOCUME

6、NTS 2.1. General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3 and 4 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. every effort has been made to ensure the com

7、pleteness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements documents cited in sections 3 and 4 of this specification, whether or not they are listed. While 2.2. Government documents. 2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications

8、, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. specified, the issues of these documents are those listed in the issue of the Department of Defense Index of Specifications and Standards (DoDISS) and supplement thereto, cited in the solicitation (see 6.2). Unle

9、ss otherwise SPECIFICATIONS FEDERAL A-A-5 O 1 9 9 A-A- 52 O 9 4 - Thread, Cotton DDD-L-20 - Label: For Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage, - Thread, Polyester Core, Cotton or Polyester Covered (General Use) DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE MIL-C-368 - Cloth, Satin, Rayon and Cloth, Twill, Rayon . MIL-T-5237 - Tap

10、e, Textile, Webbing, Textile, Rayon MIL-C-10176 - Cloth, Gabardine: Wool Polyester and Wool MIL-C-41820 - Cloth, Gabardine, Polyester and Rayon 2 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-29477A W 9999906 2055478 b2T W MIL-DTL-294 7 7A

11、(MC) STANDARDS FEDERAL FED-STD-751 - Stitches, Seams, and Stitchings DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE MIL-STD-1609 - Provisions for Evaluating Quality of Womens Skirts (Unless otherwise indicated, copies of the above specifications, standards, handbooks are available from the Standardization Document Order Des

12、k, 700 Robbins Avenue, Building 4D, Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094.) 2.3. Non-Government publications. The following document(s) form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of the documents which are DoD adopted are those listed in the issue of th

13、e DoDISS cited in the solicitation. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of documents not listed in the DoDISS are the issues of the documents cited in the solicitation (see 6.2). Department of Defense (DoD) Standard Color Card of Official Standardized Shades for Sewing Threads 1968 (Application f

14、or copies should be addressed to the Color Association of the UnitedStates, Inc., 409 W. 44th Street, New York, NY 10016-0927. ) 2.4. Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing

15、 in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained. 3. REQUIREMENTS 3.1. Standard sample. Standard samples are furnished solely for guidance and information to the contractor (see 6.3). Variation from this specification may appear in

16、the sample, in which case the specification shall govern. 3.2. First article. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection in accordance with 4.3. 3 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-vIL-DTL-29477A m

17、 9999906 2055479 566 MIL-DTL-2 94 7 7A (MC) t 3.3. Materials. 3.3.1 Basic material. The basic material for each class of skirts shall be as follows (see 6.3) : 3.3.1.1. Class 1. Cloth, polyester/wool, gabardine, 10.6 ounces, sky blue, shade 2319, conforming to type II, class 12 of MIL-C-10176. 3.3.1

18、.2. Class 2. Cloth, polyester/rayon, gabardine, 8 ounces, white, shade 2400, conforming to type III, class 1 of MIL-C-41820. 3.3.1.3. Class 3. Cloth, polyester/wool, gabardine, 10.6 ounces, dark blue, shade 2312, conforming to type II, class 12 of MIL-C-10176. 3.3.2 Lininq. The material for lining t

19、he skirts shall be as follows: 3.3.2.1. Classes 1 and 3. Cloth, twill, rayon, 3.7 ounces, black, shade 2604, conforming to class 1 of MIL-C-368. 3.3.2.2. Class 2. Cloth, twill rayon, 3.7 ounces, white, shade 3001, conforming to class 1 of MIL-C-368. 3.3.3 Knitted cloth. The knitted cloth for the fro

20、nt stretch panel shall be 100 percent nylon with a weight of 1 pound per 2.7 yards on 24/25 inch width. The color shall be sky blue for class 1, white for class 2 and dark blue or black for class 3 skirts. 3.3.4 Elastic waistband stabilizer. The elastic waistband stabilizer shall be Ban-Rol XL 90 or

21、 equal and shall be 1 I 1/16 inch in width. 3.3.5 Finishina tape. skirt shall be tape, textile, rayon conforming to type.1 of MIL-T-5237. .of the basic fabric. The tape for finishing the bottom of the The color of the tape shall closely match the shade 4 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction

22、or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-29477A 9979906 2055480 288 MIL-DTL-29477A (MC) 3.3.6 Thread. Cotton thread shall conform to A-A-52094 as follows : Use Type Ticket No. Ply Seams, stitching I 50 3 Overedging I 70 2 As an alternate to the cotton thread, a polyester, cotton-

23、covered thread conforming to A-A-50199, ticket No. 70, 2-ply may be used. 3.3.6.1. Color. The color of the thread shall be Navy blue, shade AT, cable No. 66060 for class 1, white, shade AH, cable No. 66050 for class 2 and black, shade AA, cable No. 66043 for the class 3 skirts (see DoD Standard Colo

24、r Card of Official Standardized Shades for Sewing Threads 1968). 3.3.7 Labels. 3.3.7.1. Combination label_. Each skirt shall have a combination identification, size, and instruction label conforming to type VI, classes 1 and 3 of DDD-L-20. The fastness to laundering requirements of DDD-L-20 shall ap

25、ply. The inscription shall be as follows: SKIRT, WOMANS - EVENING DRESS, MATERNITY, MUSICIANS FIBER CONTENT: Polyester (55%) and Wool (45%) (Example) Size: 4-6 (Example) Contract number: DLA-100-95-XXXX (Example) Name of contractor: DRY CLEAN ONLY 3.4. Desiqn. The skirt shall be the U.S. Marine Corp

26、s design shown in Figure 1 having a three piece skirt and full elastic waistband which has a one piece front with a knitted nylon cloth stretch panel inserted across the upper front and a two piece back with waist darts. The back panels shall be lined from top of waistband to bottom of hem and attac

27、hed to the side seams from top of waistband on the back panels to the bottom of the knit fabric. The front panel shall be lined from the bottom of knit panel to the bottom of the hem. The lining shall hang loose from the side seams from bottom of front knit panel to bottom of the hem. 5 Provided by

28、IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-flIL-DTL-29477A W 7999906 2055481 114 W ITEM MIL-DTL-29477A (MC) PATTERN NOMENCLATURE NO. OF CUT PARTS 3.5. Patterns. Standard patterns will be furnished to the contractor by the Government (see 6.3). The standard

29、patterns shall not be altered in any way and shall be used only as a guide for cutting the contractors working pattern. The contractors working patterns shall be identical to the standard patterns. Standard patterns show size, seam allowances, directional lines for cutting and are marked or notched

30、for proper placement and assembly of the component parts. allowance of 3 inches for hemming the bottom of skirt and 5/8 inch seam allowance for all seams. The patterns provide an 1 2 3 4 5 3.5.1 List of pattern parts. The skirts shall be cut from the materials specified herein in accordance with the

31、 pattern parts as follows: Material : Basic Lower front 1 Back 2 Upper front panel 1 Lower front lining 1 Back lining 2 Material: Knitted cloth Material: Rayon lining 6 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-29477A 0b 2055482 050 MIL

32、-DTL-2 9477A (MC) SEAM/ 1 STCH TYPE 3.6.1 Pressinq. Pressing as required in Table I shall be accomplished with a heated pressing iron or machine set at a suitable temperature for synthetics. 3.6.2 Shade markinq. The component parts shall be marked to ensure a uniform shade and size throughout the sk

33、irts. Any method of shade marking may be used except: a. Corrosive metal fastening devices. b Sew-on shade tickets. c Adhesive type tickets which show discoloration or leave traces of paper or adhesive mass to the material upon removal of the tickets. TABLE I. Manufacturinq rl - NO 1 - OPERATION utt

34、inq. ,. Cut skirt in strict accordance rith patterns furnished by the iovernment . I. Cut all materials in the lirection indicated by directional .ines on the pattern. The lirectional line shall be placed in :he warp direction of the cloth inless otherwise indicated on the attern. :. Cut all parts o

35、f the skirt, !xcept the upper front panel, out of :he same piece of basic material. i. The upper front panel shall be :ut from knitted stretch material in iccordance with patterns furnished. 5. Cut elastic waistband stabilizer in lengths as shown below for individual sizes. jize Lenath (inches) 3xtr

36、a small Small 9edium Large Extra large 26 27 29 31 33 f. Cut hem tapes not less than 65 inches long (see operation 11). STCH TYPE ruirements. TCH/IN NDL BOB/ LPR 7 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-29477A = 9999906 2055483 T97 -

37、 NO 2 - 3 4 5 MIL-DTL-2 9477A (MC) TABLE I. Manufacturina requirements - Continued. OPERAT ION Zerilacement of daniaaed parts. P. Replace at time of cutting any ?art of the skirt containing holes or seriously weakening defects such as mashes, multiple floats, loose neakening slubs, etc., expected to

38、 ievelop into holes, shade bars and iye streaks or unsightly slubs, etc. 3. Replace any part damaged during the manufacturing process, by needle :hews which may develop into a hole, scissor or knife cuts, tear, holes, nends or burns in the material. Shade markinq. a. Mark, ticket or bundle all rompo

39、nent parts (see 3.6.3) cut from me piece of basic material to ensure uniform shade and size throughout the skirt. Join front lininq to lower front parts. Finished appearance. The front parts shall be joined without gathers, puckers or pleats. a. Position the front lining to the lower front panel wit

40、h the finished sides facing out and join together at the waist with a 3/8 inch seara. Kake front. Finished appearance. The front parts shall be joined without gathers, puckers or pleats. a. Join the knitted stretch panel to the lower front assembly with a 3/8 inch seam. The ends of the seam shall st

41、art and finish evenly at the seam line. b. Overedge stitch the raw edges of the seam together. c. Turn the finished seam dom and topstitch on the basic fabric 1/4 inch from the joining seam. STCH TYPE 301 or 401 301 or 401 503 or 504 301 SEAM/ STCH TYPE SSa-1 LSh-4 EFd-1 SSa-1 iTCH/IN 10-14 10-14 10

42、-14 10-14 NDL 50 50 50 50 70 50 BOB/ LPR 50 70 50 70 70 50 8 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-29477A W 9999906 2055484 923 W MIL-DTL-29477A (MC) TCH/ IN 10-14 10-14 10-14 TABLE I. Manufacturinq requirements - Continued. ace wit

43、h edges even and join at the enter with a 5/8 inch seam. The nds of the seam shall finish evenly. #. Spread open center back seam and lress smooth and flat with a heated ron or pressing machine. lake back darts. inished appearance. The darts shall ,e tapered on the inside without :wists or puckers.

44、Thread ends at .ower end of darts shall not be :rimmed closer than 1/2 inch in .ength. End of darts need not be artacked. i. Fold and stitch back waist darts .n accordance with marks and notches is indicated on the pattern. The .ower ends of the waist darts shall )e tapered. ). Press the darts smoot

45、h and flat iith a heated pressing iron, with the inside folded edge of darts toward :he center back seam. Nol Join linina back Darts. Finished appearance. The lining back part shall be joined without gathers, puckers or pleats. a. Position the lining back parts face to face with edges even and joir

46、at the center with a 3/4 inch seam, from bottom of skirt to top of waistband. OPEAT ION 5 6 STCH TYPE Make front. (contd) d. As an option, a and b above the front knitted panel and the lower front panel may be joined in one continuous operation. Make back. Finished appearance. The back parts shall b

47、e joined without gathers, puckers or pleats. a. Position the back panels face to 301 or 401 301 or 401 301 SEAM/ STCH TYPE SSa-1 OSf-1 SSa-1 NDL 50 50 50 50 BOB/ LPR 50 50 70 50 9 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-29477A D 99999

48、0b 205545 bT D MIL-DTL-29477A(MC) TABLE I. Manufacturina resuirements - Continued. - NO 8 9 10 OPERATION Join lininu back Darts. (contd) b. The seam shall be pressed open and pinked on each side. Join front and back part assemblies. a. The front assembly shall be placed on the two piece basic fabric

49、 assembly face to face with the face of the two piece back lining facing the inside front assembly of the basic fabric, knit and lower front lining. b. Join the front and back part assemblies of the skirt at the side seams with a 5/8 inch seam from the top of the waist to the bottom of the knit front. c. From the bottom of the knit front to the bottom of the hem, the basic fabr