NAVY MIL-C-87074 B-1991 CLOTH TWILL ACETATE《醋酸斜纹布》.pdf

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1、“;$;$ MIL-C-87074B 83 999990b 0472527 4 W INCH-POUND MIL-C-87074B(NU) 20 March 1991 SUPERSEDING 24 October 1984 MIL-C-87074A(NU) MILITARY SPECIFICATION CLOTH, TWILL, ACETATE This specification is approved for use by the Navy Clothing and Textile Research Facility, Department of the Navy, and is avai

2、lable for use by all Departments and Agencies o the Department of Defense. 1. SCOPE 1.1 Scope. This specification covers the requirements for one type of acetate twill cloth. 2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS 2.1 Government documents. Beneficial comments (recommendations, additions, deletions) and any pertine

3、nt data which may be of use in improving this document should be addressed to: Officer in Charge, Navy Clothing and Textile Research Facility, Post Office Box 59, Natick, MA 01760-0001 by using the self-addressed Standardization Document Improvement Proposal (DD Form 1426) appearing at the end of th

4、is document or bv letter. AMSC N/A FSC 8305 DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release, distribution is unlimited. Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-C-87074B 83 = 99999Ob 0472528 b 2.1.1 Specifications, standards, and han

5、dbooks. The following specifications, standards and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents shall be those listed in the issue of the Department of Defense Index of Specifications and Standards (DODISS) and supp

6、lement thereto, cited in the solicitation (see 6.2). SPECIFICATIONS FEDERAL PPP-P-1133 - Packaging and Packing of Synthetic Fiber Fabrics STANDARDS FEDERAL FED-STD-4 FED-STD-191 - Textile Test Methods - Glossary of Fabric Imperfections MILITARY MIL-STD-105 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspec

7、tion by MIL-STD-2073-1 - DOD Materials Procedures for Development and MIL-STD-2073-2 - Packaging Requirement Codes Attributes Application of Packaging Requirements * (Unless otherwise indicated, copies of federal and military specifications, standards, and handbooks are available from the Standardiz

8、ation Documents Order Desk, Building 4D, 700 Robbins Avenue, Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094.) * 2.1.2 Other Government Documents, Drawings, and Publications. The following other Government documents, drawings, and publications form a part of this -. document to the extent specified herein. - Unless oth

9、erwise specified, the issues are those cited in the solicitation. RULES AND REGULATIONS UNDER THE TEXTILE FIBER PRODUCTS IDENTIFICATION ACT (Copies may be obtained without charge from the Federal Trade Commission, Washington, DC 20580.) 2.2 Non-Government publications. The following document(s) form

10、 a part of this specification to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issue of documents which are DoD adopted shall be those listed in the issue of the DODISS cited in the solicitation. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of documents not listed in the DODISS are the issu

11、es of the documents cited in the solicitation (see 6.2). TECHNICAL MANUAL OF THE AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS METHOD No. 135-1987 - Dimensional Changes in Automatic Home Laundering of Durable Press Woven or Kiii t Fabric 2 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or net

12、working permitted without license from IHS-,-,- MIL-C-87074B 83 m 999990b 0472529 8 m - F I MIL-C-87074B(NU) METHOD No. 8-1988 - Colorfastness to Crocking: Crockmeter Method * (Application for copies shall be addressed to the AATCC National Headquarters, P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27

13、709-9989.) -* (Non-Government standards and other publications are normally available from the organizations that prepare or distribute the documents. These documents also may be available in or through libraries or other informational services.) * 2.3 Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict

14、 between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained. 3. REQUIREMENTS * 3.1 Standard sample. The finished cloth shall

15、 match the standard sample for shade and uniformity of shade and shall be equal to or better than the standard sample with respect to all characteristics for which the standard sample is referenced. The standard sample is identified under piece number 84288 (see 6.3). 3.2 First article. When specifi

16、ed, the contractor shall furnish sample unit(s) for first article inspection and approval (see 4.3 and 6.2). 3.3 Material. 3.3.1 Yarn. The yarn for the warp and filling shall be a continuous multifilament, solution dyed bright acetate. The size of the warp yarn shall be 75 denier and the size of the

17、 filling yarn shall be 100 denier when tested as specified in 4.5. 3.3.2 Cloth. The finished cloth shall conform to the physical requirements specifiedmable I when tested as specified in 4.5. Table I - Physical Requirements Characteristic Weight, oz/sq yd (g/m2) Yarns per inch (2.5cm) Warp Fi 11 ing

18、 2.0 min. (67.8) 130 min. 75 min. 3.3.2.1 Weave. The weave for the cloth shall be a 2 up 2 down right hand twill when tested as specified in 4.5. 3 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-C-87074B 3 9999906 0472530 4 W 3 * 3.3.2.2 Width.

19、The width of the cloth shall be as specified (see 6.2) and shall be the minimum acceptable width inclusive of selvage when fly shuttle or shuttleless looms, with tuck-in selvage, are used. For all other shuttleless looms the width measurement shall be made between the last warp yarn on each side exc

20、luding the protruding fringe. 3.4 Color. The color of the cloth shall be Black 3218 and shall match the standard sample (see 6.3). * 3.4.1 Matching. The color of the finished dyed cloth shall match the standard sample when viewed under filtered tungsten lamps which approximate artificial daylight, h

21、aving a correlated color temperature of 7500 (+ 200) K, with illumination of 100 (+ 20) foot candles, and shall be a good match to the standard sample under incandescent lamplight at 2300 (+ - 200) K. * 3.4.2 Colorfastness. The finished cloth shall show fastness to laundering, wet-dry cleaning (two

22、methods), dry cleaning, dry crocking, perspiration and light (80 SFH) equal to or better than the standard sample. As a limit of acceptability or when no standard sample is available, the finished cloth shall show a minimum of “good“ fastness to laundering, wet-dry cleaning (two methods), dry cleani

23、ng, perspiration and light (80 SFH) and shall show a crocking rating of not lower than 3.0 dry when tested as specified in 4.5. * 3.5 Dimensional stability. The cloth shall not shrink or elongate more than 4.0 percent in the warp and filling when tested as specified in 4.5. 3.6 Non-fibrous material.

24、 The starch and protein content including trichlorotrifluoroethane soluble and water-soluble material of the finished cloth shall not exceed 8.0 percent when tested as specified in 4.5. 3.7 Acidity (pH). The pH value of the water extract of the finished cloth shall be no less than 5.0 nor more than

25、8.5 when tested as specified in 4.5. * 3.8 Length and put-up. Unless otherwise specified (see 6.2), the cloth shall be furnished in continuous lengths each not less than 50 yards and shall be put-up in rolls, full width, as specified in PPP-P-1133. 3.9 Fiber identification. Each roll of cloth shall

26、be labeled or ticketed for fiber content in accordance with the Rules and Regulations under the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act. 3.10 Workmanship. The finished cloth shall conform to the quality established by this specification. The demerit points per 100 square yards when calculated as s

27、pecified in section 4 shall not exceed the established maximum point value. 4. QUALITY ASSURANCE PROVISIONS 4 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-2- e MIL-C-87074B 83 9999906 0472531 b 4.1 Responsibility for inspection. Unless otherwise s

28、pecified in the contract or purchase order, the contractor is responsible for the performance of all inspection requirements (examinations and tests) as specified herein. Except as otherwise specified in the contract or purchase order, the contractor may use his own or any other facilities suitable

29、for performance of the inspection requirements specified herein, unless disapproved by the Government. The Government reserves the right to perform any of the inspections set forth in the specification where such inspections are deemed necessary to ensure supplies and services conform to prescribed

30、requirements. * 4.1.1 Responsibility for compliance. All items must meet all requirements of sections 3 and 5. The inspection set forth in this specification shall become a part of the contractors overall inspection system or quality program. The absence of any inspection requirements in the specifi

31、cation shall not relieve the contractor of the responsibility of ensuring that all products or supplies submitted to the Government for acceptance comply with all requirements of the contract. Sampling inspection, as part of manufacturing operations, is an acceptable practice to ascertain conformanc

32、e to requirements, however, this does not authorize submission of known defective material, either indicated or actual, nor does it commit the government to acceptance of defective material. 4.1.2 Certificate of compliance. Where certificates of compliance are submitted, the Government reserves the

33、right to check test such items to determine the validity of the certification. 4.2 Classification of inspection. The inspection requirements specified herein are classified as follows: 1. First article inspection (see 4.3). 2. Quality conformance inspection (see 4.4). * 4.3 First article inspection.

34、 When required, the first article of finished cloth submitted in accordance with 3.2, shall be visually inspected for color, finish, and appearance and shall be tested for chemical and physical properties in accordance with the applicable methods specified in 4.5. 4.4 Quality conformance inspection.

35、 Sampling for inspection shall be performed in accordance with MIL-STD-105, except where otherwise indicated. 4.4.1 Component and material inspection. In accordance with 4.1 above, components and materials shall be tested in accordance with all the requirements of referenced specifications, drawings

36、, and standards unless otherwise excluded, amended, modified, or qualified in this specification or applicable procuremeiit documents. 4.4.2 Examination of the end item. Examination of the end item shall be in accordance with 4.4.2.1 through 4.4.2.5. 5 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or

37、 networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-C-87074B 83 = 9999906 0472532 B MIL-C-87074B(NU) * 4.4.2.1 Yard-by-yard examination. Each roll in the sample shall. be examined on one side only. When the total yardage in the roll does not exceed 100 yards (91.4m), the entire yardage in the rol

38、l shall be examined. When the total yardage in the roll exceeds 100 yards (91,4m), only 100 yards (91.4m) shall be examined. All defects as defined in Section III of FED-STD-4, which are clearly noticeable at normal inspection distance (3 feet) (.91m) shall be scored and assigned demerit points as l

39、isted in 4.4.2.2, except that only those slubs and knots which exceed the limits shown on Sears Fabric Defect Scale (see 6.4), irC“ or “4“ as applicable for slubs and “B“ for knots, shall be scored. No linear yard (increments of 1 yard (.gim) on the measuring device of the inspection machine) from a

40、ny one roll within the sample shall be penalized more than 4 points. The sample size shall be in accordance with the list brlow. The lot shall be unacceptable if the points per 100 square yards (83.6111 ) of the total yardage examined exceeds 25.0 pointsi The lot shall be unacceptable if the points

41、per 100 square yards (83.6m ) of two or more individual rolls exyeed 38.0 points. If one roll exceeds 38.0 points per 100 square yards (83.6111 ), a second sample of 20 rolls shall be examined only for individual roll quality examination. The lot shall be unacceptable if one or more 5011s in the sec

42、ond sample exceeds 38.0 points per 100 square yards (83.6m ). Point computation for lot quality and individual roll quality shall be shown below. Lot size (yards) Sample size (rolls) 3200 or less 3201 to 10,000 10,001 and over 8 13 20 Total points scored in sample size x 3600 = Points per 100 Contra

43、cted width of cloth (inches) x Total yards inspected square yards 4.4.2.2 Demerit points. Demerit points shall be assigned as follows: For defects up to and including 3 inches (7.6cm) in any dimension - one point For defects exceeding 3 inches (7.6) but not exceeding 6 inches (15.2cm) in any dimensi

44、on - two points For defects exceeding 6 inches (15.2cm) but not exceeding For defects exceeding 9 inches (15.2cm) in any dimension - four points 9 inches (22.90cm) in any dimension - three points The following defects, when present, shall be scored 4 points for each yard in which they occur: Baggy,

45、ridgy or wavy cloth Width less than specified Characteristics of finish, hand, or shade not equal to the standard sainple 4.4.2.3 Examination for length. 6 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-.; D MIL-C-87074B 83 9999906 0472533 T MIL-C-8

46、7074B(NU) 4.4.2.3.1 Individual rolls. During the yard-by-yard examination, each roll in the sample shall be examined for length. Any length found to be less than the minimum specified, or more than two yards (1.8m) less than the length marked on the ticket shall be considered a defect with respect t

47、o length. The lot shall be unacceptable if two or more rolls in the sample are defective in respect to length. 4.4.2.3.2 Total yardage in sample. The lot shall be unacceptable if the total of the actual lengths of rolls in the sample is less than the total of the lengths marked on the tickets. 4.4.2

48、.4 Examination for shade. 4.4.2.4.1 Individual rolls. A sample from each roll in the lot shall be examined visually for shade (see 3.4). A roll shall be unacceptable if it fails to meet the requirements for shade, finish or appearance. The sample shall be a 4-inch by 20-inch swatch of cloth drawn fr

49、om each roll in the lot. 4.4.2.4.2 Examination for shade variation. During the yard-by-yard examination, each roll in the sample shall be examined for shade variation. Any roll in the sample exhibiting uneven shade, shaded variation side to side, side to center or end to end shall be cause for rejection of the entire lot represented by the sample. 4.4.2.5 Examination for noncompliance with the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act. During the yard-by-yar