NAVY MIL-C-82252 D-1983 CLOTH BROADCLOTH WOOL AND WOOL-SYNTHETIC (MOTH-PROOFED)《羊毛和合成羊毛细毛织品布(防虫)》.pdf

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1、4 APRIL 1983 SUPERSEDING MIL-C-82252C 20 September 1977 MILITARY SPECIFICATION CLOTH, BROADCLOTH, WOOL, AND WOOL-SYNTHETIC (MOTH-PROOFED) This specification is approved for use by all Departmentsand Agencies of the Department of Defense. 1. SCOPE 1.1 Scope. This specification covers the requirements

2、 for wool and wool- synthetic broadcloth fabrics. 1.2 Classification. The broadcloth shall be of the following types and classes (see 6.2) : Type I - Wool Class 1 - 14.5 Ounce - Blue 3346 Class 2 - 15.5 Ounce - Blue 2307 Class 3 - 16.5 Ounce - Blue 3346 Class 5 - 23.0 Ounce - Blue 3346 Type II - Woo

3、l - Synthetic Blend Class 1 - 15.5 Ounce - Blue 2307 Class 3 - 16.5 Ounce - Blue 3346 2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS *2.1 Government documents *2.1.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. Unless othewise specified, the following specifications, standards and handbooks of the issue listed in that issue

4、of the Department of Defense Index of Specifications and Standards (DoDISS) specified in the solicitation form a part of this specification to the extent specified. Beneficial comments (recommendations, additions, and deletions) and any pertinent data which may be of use in improving this document s

5、hould be addressed to: Officer in Charge, Navy Clothing and Textile Research Facility, 21 Strathmore Road, Natick, MA 01760 by using the self-addressed Standardization Document Improvement Proposal (DD Form 1426) appearing at the end of this document or by letter. FSC 8305 Licensed by Information Ha

6、ndling ServicesMIL-C-82252D 3 7977706 0407013 O MIL-C-82252D SPECIFICATIONS FEDERAL PPP-P-1132 - Packaging and Packing of Woolen, Worsted, and Wool Blend (Synthetic Fiber; Cotton) Fabrics MILITARY MIL-C-43665 - Cloth, Wool: Mothproofing Treatment of STANDARDS FEDERAL FED-STD-191 - Textile Test Metho

7、ds MILITARY MIL-STD-655 . - Provisions for Evaluating Quality of Cloth, Wool, Worsted and Wool Blends. (Copies of specifications, standards, drawings, and publications required by contractors in connection with specific procurement functions should be obtained from the procuring activity or as direc

8、ted by Che contracting officer.) *2,1.2 Other Government documents, drawings, and publications. The following other Government documents, drawings, and publications form a part of this spe- cif ication to the extent specified herein. LAWS AND REGULATIONS RULES AND REGULATIONS UNDER THE WOOL PRODUCT

9、LABELING ACT OF 1939 (Application for copy should be addressed to the Superintendent of Documents, Government Printing Office, Washington, D.C. 20402.) 2.2 Other publications. The following document(s) form a part of this specification to the extent specified herein. The issues of documents which ar

10、e indicated as DoD adopted shall be the issue listed in the current DoDISS and supplement thereto, if applicable. U. S. DEPARTMENT OF AGRICUTURE Methods of Test for Grade of Wool (Applicakion for copies should be addressed to the U.S. Department of Agriculture, Agricultural Marketing Service, Washin

11、gton, D.C. 20402 .) 2.3 Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this specification and the references cited herein, the text of this Specification shall take precedence. 2 3 / Licensed by Information Handling Services- MIL-C-82252D 83 W 9999906 OL07OL4 2 MIL-C-82252D c 3.

12、 REQUIREMENTS 3.1 Standard sample, The finished cloth shall match the standard sample for shade, and shall be equal to or better than the standard sample with respect to all characteristics for which the standard sample is referenced (see 6.3.). 3.2 First article. When specified, the contractor shal

13、l furnish a sample of cloth for first article inspection and approval (see 4.3 and 6.2). 3.3 Material. 3.3.1 Stock 3.3.1.1 Wool. The wool stock shall be of fleece or pulled wool, or a com- bination of both, not lower in grade than 64s U.S. Standard for type I, classes 1, 2, 3 and 5 and type II, clas

14、s 1; and not lower in grade than 60s U.S. Standard for type II, class 3. The use of reprocessed wools, reused wools, or any wool waste, or wool manufacturing by-products, other than those resulting from the suppliers own current production of this cloth, is prohibited. In- spections shall be perform

15、ed as specified in 4.4.1.1 and 4.4.2. 3.3.2 Wool content. 3.3.2.1 Type I. The finished cloth shall contain not less than 95 percent wool, based on the oven dry weight of the specimen, when tested as specified in 4.5. 3.3.2.2 Type II. The finished cloth shall be wool blended with first quality synthe

16、tic fiber (see 6.2) in such proportion that the finished cloth shall contain not less than 83 percent wool and not more than 17 percent of the specified synthetic fiber when tested as specified in 4.5. determined based on the oven dry weight of the specimen. Content shall be 3.3.3 Yarn. The wool and

17、 wools pnthetic fibers shall be blended, carded, and evenly spun on the woolen system into singles yarn for both the warp and the filling when tested as specified in 4.4.1 and 4.5. 3.4 Physical requirements. The finished cloth shall conform to the require- ments in Table I when tested as specified i

18、n 4.5. * 3.5 Weave. The weave for all types shall be 2 right hand twill when tested as specified in 4.5. 1 NOTE: Selvage yarns - To prevent edges of the cloth from building up when rolled, the single yarn used in the selvage may be made of a finer count than those used in the body of the cloth. The

19、fiber content of the selvage yarns shall be the same as that of the body of the cloth. 3.6 Color. The color shall be as specified (see 6.2), and shall be produced by stpck or top dying with a suitable dyestuff to match the standard sample. 3 Licensed by Information Handling ServicesMIL-C-82252D 83 7

20、777706 0407035 4 MIL-C-82252D bc1 51 aln MU I n v) P il 5 i i ommo mm udmm rlcJ a Om Fi (d 3 mhlmu Nm oomo I nnnn nn l-0-03 O0 cooml- O0 NN rlarlrl wmmo mm uumu *u ww wwww Fi (d 3 d nnnn omcorn owl-03 NNrlhl moom umu- wwww nnnn nn rnrlwm 40 dNNN hlhl ?Y? ? wwww ww 03UOd u0 MdUN rlu muu- u* O000 O0 d

21、rlrllY rld wwwu ww - 0 4aI-u -I- 4 P nn me I nnnn .* (vcoem Me -03rl- Md mmeq ww mu wwwv O000 O0 rlm U 4 - Licensed by Information Handling Servicest MIL-C-82252D 83 777770b 0407016 b W MIL-C-82252D * 3.6.1 Matching. artificial daylight, having a color temperature of 7000 + 500 kelvin and shall be a

22、 good approximation to the standard sample under incandescent lamp- light at 2850 - + 100 kelvin. The finished cloth shall match the standard sample under 3.6.2 Colorfastness. The finished cloths challeshow colorfastness to light, wet-dry cleaning, crocking and perspiration equal to or better than t

23、he standard sample when tested as specified in 4.5. When no standard sample is available, the finished cloths shall show “good“ fastness to light, wet-dry cleaning, and perspiration and shall show a Munsell Value for crocking not lower than 8.5 when tested as specified in 4.5. 3.7 Finish. The fabric

24、 shall have a finish and hand equal to or better than the standard sample. free from vegetable matter (carbonized if necessary) and face evenly sheared and pressed. The fabric shall be thoroughly scoured, properly fulled, 3.7.1 pH. The pH value of the water extract of the finished cloth shall be not

25、 less than 4.0 nor more than 8.0 when tested as Specified in 4.5. 3.8 Marking. The back of the cloth shall be marked “BACK“ at both ends of each roll with letters not less than 1/2 inch (1.3cm) in height. The marking shall be clearly legible in any indelible marking used commercially and shall not s

26、how through on the face of the cloth. 3.9 Length and put-up. Unless otherwise specified (see 6.2), the cloth shall be furnished in continuous lengths, each not less than 40 yards (36.56m). Each length of cloth furnished shall be put-up on rolls with the face side inward as specified in PPP-P-1132. 3

27、.10 Wool content label. Cloth manufactured under this specification shall be labeled in accordance with the Wool Products Labeling Act of 1939. 3.11 Mothproofing. The cloth shall be given a mothproofing treatment in accordance with MIL-C-43665 (see 4.5). 3.12. Workmanship. The finished cloth shall c

28、onform to the quality estab- lished by this specification. when calculated as specified in Section 4, shall not exceed the established maximum point value. to 3.8cm) long string. The string shall be sewn into the selvage near the defect. A red string shall represent a three or four point defect and

29、a white string shall represent a one or two point defect (see 4.4.3). The demerit points per 100 square yards (83.61m2) Each defect shall be marked with a 1 to 1-1/2 inch (2.5 4. QUALITY ASSURANCE PROVISIONS 5 ,- Licensed by Information Handling ServicesMIL-C-82252D 3 7977706 0407017 W MIL-C-82252D

30、4.1 Responsibility for inspection. Unless otherwise specified in the contract, tile contractor is responsible fr the performance of oll inspection requirements as specified herein. Except as otherwise specified in the contract, the contractor may use his own or any other facilities suitable for the

31、per- formance of the inspection requirements specified herein, unless disapproved by the Government. The Government reserves the right to perform any of the inspections set forth in the specification where such inspections are deemed necessary to assure supplies and services conform to the prescribe

32、d requirements. 4.1.1 Certificate of compliance. Where certificates of compliance are sub- mitted, the Government reserves the right to check test such items to determine the validity of the certification. 4.2 Classification of inspections. The inspection requirements specified herein are classified

33、 as follows: 1. First article inspection (See 4.3) 2. Quality conformance inspection (See 4.4) 4.3 First article inspection. When required, the first article of finished cloth shall be visually examined for color, finish and appearance and shall be tested for chemical and physical properties in acco

34、rdance with the applicable methods specified in 4.5. 4.4 Quality conformance inspection. Inspection shall be performed in accordance with MIL-STD-655, except where otherwise indicated. 4.4.1 Component and material inspection. In accordance with 4.1 above, components and materials shall be visually e

35、xamined and tested in accordance with all requirements of referenced specifications, drawings, and standards unless otherwise excluded, amended, modified or qualified in this specification or applicable purchase document. In addition, a certificate of compliance shall be submitted for the blending a

36、nd spinning of the yarns as specified in 3.3.3, 4.4.1.1 Wool. The wool shall be visually examined for grade in scoured form, prior to dyeing, picking or carding, by comparison with the applicable U.S. Standard (see 2.2). The examination for grade shall be performed on a composite sample of 1 pound (

37、0.45Kg) of scoured wool for each 10,000 pounds (4500 Kg) or fraction thereof in the lot. selected from not less than 10 percent of the bales or bags in the lot. In the event of dispute resulting from comparison, the grade shall be determined by a width method (wedge). The lot shall be unacceptable i

38、f the sample does not conform to the requirements of 3.3.1.1. Each lot shall consist of one grade of wool only. The composite sample shall be 4.4.2 In-process inspection. Inspection shall be made at any point or during any phase of the manufacturing process to assure that only approved wools are use

39、d (see 3.3.1.1). The Government reserves the right to exclude from consideration for acceptance any material for which in-process inspection has indicated nonconformance. 6 Licensed by Information Handling ServicesMIL-C-82252D 83 779770b Oi.107018 T MIL-C-82252D * 4.4.3 Examination of the end item.

40、Examination of the end item for yard- by-yard, length, back marking, compliance with the Wool Product Labeling Act, and for defect marking (Stringing of defects) shall be as specified in NIL-STD-655. .The fabric quality for the finished cloth shall be quality level 10. * 4.4.3.1 Limits of slubs and

41、knots. Only slubs and knots which exceed “C“ for slubs and “D“ for knots on the Sears Fabric Defect Scale (see 6.4) shall be scored. * 4.4.3.2 Examination for shade and finish, individual rolls, Each roll in the lot shall be examined visually for shade match (see 3.6), and finish (see 3.7). A roll s

42、hall be unacceptable if it fails to meet the requirements for shade match or finish as applicable, 20-inch (10.1 by 50.8cm) swatch of the cloth. from each roll in the lot. * 4.4.4 Examination of packaging requirements, in accordance with the provisions of PPP-P-1132 to determine that packaging, pack

43、ing and marking comply with the Section 5 requirements of this specification. The sample unit shall be a 4-inch by A sample unit shall be drawn An examination shall be made 4.5 Testing of the end item. The methods of testing specified in FED-STD-191, wherever applicable and as listed in Table II, sh

44、all be followed. Eie physical and chemical values specified in Section 3, except where otherwise indicated, apply to the results of the determinations made on a sample unit for test purposes as specified in the applicable test methods. All test reports shall contain the individual values utilized in

45、 expressing the final result. The sample unit shall be 3 1/2 yds (3.2m), fui1 width of the finished cloth. The lot size shall be expressed in units of one yard (0.9m). The lot shall be unacceptable if one or more sample units fail to meet any of the test requirements specified. The sample size shall

46、 be in accordance with the following: Lot size (yards) Sample size 800 or less 2 801 up to and including 22,000 3 22,001 and over 5 Table II - Test methods Characteristics Requirement paragraph Test method Fiber percentage Type- I Type II Yarn ply Weave Weight Yarns per inch Breaking strength - Warp

47、 and filling 3.3.2.1 3.3.2.2 363.3 3.5 3.4 3.4 3.4 7 2101 2102 Visual i/ Visual i/ 5041 5050 5100 - Licensed by Information Handling ServicesMIL-C-Z252D 3 7777906 0407037 3 MIL-C-82252D Table II - Test methods (contd) Characteristics Requirement paragraph Test method Shrinkage Colorfastness to: Warp

48、 and filling Light Wet-dry cleaning Crocking Perspiration Finish Mothproofing PH 3.4 3.6.2 3.6.2 - 3.6.2 3.6.2 3.7 3.11 3.7.1 5590 - 2/ 5660 5622 5651 5680 - 3/ - 4/ 2811 - i/ One determination per sample unit and the result reported as “pass“ or “fail. - 2/ - 3/ - 4/ Pressing shall be performed on

49、a flat bed press. A certificate of compliance will be acceptable for the requirements Sta ted. To be tested in accordance with the requirements of MIL-C-43665. 5. PACKAGING 5.1 Preservation-Packaging. 5.1.1 Levels A and C. The cloth, put up as specified, shall be packaged Packaging shall be level A or C as specified. in accordance with the applicable requirements of PPP-P-1132. 5.2 Packing. Packing shall be level A, B or C as specified (see 6.2). 5.2.1 Levels A, B, and C. The cloth shall be packed in accordance with the appl