NAVY MIL-C-29391 A-1990 COAT WOMEN-S WOOL GABARDINE DRESS BLUE CEREMONIAL《衣服正式羊毛华达呢女士外衣》.pdf

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1、II INCH-POUND II MIL-C-29391A(MC) 6 DECEMBER 1990 SUPERSEDING MIL-C-29391(MC) 17 NOVEMBER 1980 MILITARY SPECIFICATION COAT, WOMENS: WOOL GABARDINE; DRESS BLUE CEREMONIAL This specification is approved for use by the U.S. Marine Corps, Department of the Navy, and is available for use by all Departmen

2、ts and Agencies of the Department of Defense. 1. SCOPE 1.1 Scope. This specification covers requirements for a blue wool gabardine ceremonial dress coat. 1.2 Classification. The coats shall be of one type in the following sizes as specified (see 6.2). Schedule of Sizes Short Reaular Lonq 6 8 10 12 1

3、4 16 18 20 - 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 - 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 Beneficial comments (recommendations, additions, deletions) and any pertinent data which may be of use in improving this document should be addressed to the Commanding General (PSE-C), Marine Corps Research, Development, and Acquisition

4、Command, Washington, DC 20380, by using the self-addressed Standardization Document Improvement Proposal (DD Form 1426) appearing at the end of this document or by letter. AMSC-NA FSC 8410 DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. distribution is unlimited, Approved for public release; Provided by IHSNot for Resale

5、No reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-C-2737LA 4 m 7779706 0466530 7 m 2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS 2.1 Government documents. 2.1.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the exten

6、t specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those listed in the issue of the Department of Defense Index of Specifications and Standards (DODISS) and supplement thereto, cited in the solicitation. SPECIFICATIONS FEDEW V-3-871 V-T-276 V-T- 2 8 O V-T-2 9 5 V-T-301

7、 UU-P-268 DDD-L-20 DDD-T-86 MILITARY MIL-(2-368 MIL-B-371 MIL-F-495 MIL-B-3461 MIL-C-10176 MIL-P-15064 MIL-C-16375 MIL-B-17757 MIL-C-43718 MIL-C-82114 - Button, Sewing Hole, and Button, - Thread, Cotton - Thread, Gimp, Cotton, Buttonhole - Thread, Nylon - Thread, Silk - Paper, Kraft, Wrapping - Labe

8、l: For Clothing, Equipage, - Tape, Textile; Cotton, General Staple, (Plastic) and Tentage (General Use) Purpose (Unbleached, Bleached or Dyed) - Cloth, Satin, Rayon and Cloth, - Braid, Textile, Tubular - Finish, Chemical, Black, For - Button, Insignia, Metal, Uniform - Cloth, Gabardine: Wool, - Pads

9、, Shoulder and Sleeve-head - Cloth, Wigan, Cotton - Boxes, Shipping, Fiberboard, (Modular Sizes) - Cloth, Polyester; Polyester and Cotton; Polyester and Rayon, for Pockets - Coat Front: for Coats, Musicians Twill, Rayon Copper Alloys and Cap Polyester/Wool, Polyester and Wool 2 Provided by IHSNot fo

10、r ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-C-29405 - Cloth, Broadcloth, Wool, and Wool/Nylon STANDARDS FEDERAL FED-STD-191 - Textile Test Methods FED-STD-751 - Stitches, Seams, and Stitching MILITARY MIL-STD-105 - Sampling Procedures and Tables MIL-STD-129 for I

11、nspection by Attributes - Marking for Shipment and Storage (Unless otherwise indicated, copies of federal and military specifications, standards, and handbooks are available from the Standardization Documents Order Desk, Bldg 4D, 700 Robbins Avenue, Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094) 2.1.2 Other Governmen

12、t documents, drawinus, and publications. The following other Government publication forms are a part of this specification to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issue is that cited in the solicitation. LAWS AND mGULATIONS U.S. Postal Service Manual O (Copies of the Manual m

13、ay be obtained from the Superintendent of Documents, U.S. Government Printing Office, Washington, DC 20402.) 2.2 Non-Government Publications, The following document(s) form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of the documents which are DoD a

14、dopted are those listed in the issue of the DODISS cited in the solicitation. UNIFORM CLASSIFICATION COMMITTEE Uniform Freight Classification Rules (Application for copies should be addressed to the Uniform Classification Committee, Room 1106, 222 South Riverside Plaza, Chicago, IL 60606.) 3 Provide

15、d by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-C-23331A 4 399930b 04bb532 O W MIL-C-29391A(MC) NATIONAL MOTOR FREIGHT TRAFFIC ASSOCIATION, INC. National Motor Freight Classification (Application for copies should be addressed to the American Trucking A

16、ssociation Inc., ATTN: Tariff Order Section, 1616 P Street, N. W. Washington, DC 20036.) Department of Defense (DOD) Standard Shades for Buttons, 1966 Department of Defense (DOD) Standard Color Card of Official Standardized Shades for Sewing Threads, 1968 (Copies may be obtained from the Color Assoc

17、iation of the United States, Inc., 343 Lexington Avenue, New York, NY 10016.) 2.3 Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable la

18、ws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained. 3 REQUIREMENTS 3.1 Standard samrsles. Standard samples are furnished solely for guidance and information to the contractor (see 6.4). Variation from this specification may appear in the sample, in which case the specification shall go

19、vern. 3.2 First article. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection (see 6.4), in accordance with 4.4. 3.3 Materials. 3.3.1 Basic material. The basic material shall be cloth, polyester/wool gabardine, dark blue shade 2312 (see 6.3), 10.6 ounce, conforming to ty

20、pe II, class 12 of MIL-C-10176. 3.3.2 Lininq. The material for lining the coat, pocket flaps, collar, and vent, and for making the collar eyelet covers shall be cloth, rayon, twill, black shade 2604 (see 6.3), 3.7 ounce, conforming to class 1 of MIL-C-368. 3.3.3 Polvester and cotton. The material fo

21、r making the stay pieces for the front pocket flaps, stays for armhole and shoulder seams, binding for the lower edge of collar interlining, and reinforcement pieces for collar eyelets shall be polyester 4 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-

22、,-,-and cotton conforming to type I of MIL-C-43718, except the requirements for nonfibrous material and seam efficiency shall not apply. The color shall be black. 3.3.4 Collar interlininq. The material for interlining the collar shall be cloth, cotton, buckram, double texture, laminated, starch fini

23、sh, natural color, conforming to the following when tested as specified in section 4, table IV: 3.3.4.1 Buckram material. The buckram shall be made of cotton of suitable staple length and grade to meet the requirements of this specification. It shall be thoroughly cleaned, well carded, drawn, and ev

24、enly spun. shall be four harness, 2 up and 2 down herringbone twill, 20 ends right and 20 ends left. 3.3.4.2 Weave. The weave of the single plies of the cloth 3.3.4.3 Yarns Der inch. The two plies of the cloth shall each have a minimum thread count per inch of 50 in the warp and 20 in the filling. 3

25、.3.4.4 Laminated cloth. The two plies of the cloth shall be thoroughly adhered together with a synthetic resin-type laminating material which shall not cause an objectional odor in the finished cloth. The laminated cloth shall show no evidence of delamination after being subjected to the wet (dry) c

26、leaning, accelerated aging, and perspiration tests specified in section 4, table IV. 3.3.4.4.1 Finish. The laminated cloth shall have a starch finish. The original stiffness of the finished cloth, and the stiffness of the cloth after being subjected to the wet (dry) cleaning, accelerated aging, and

27、perspiration tests, shall conform to the following when tested as specified in section 4, table IV: Stiffness, inch-pound Minimum Maximum original 0.60 after accelerated aging 0.70 after wet (dry) cleaning 0.50 after perspiration 0.50 0.95 0.95 0.85 0.85 3.3.4.4.2 Weisht. The weight of the finished

28、laminated cloth shall be 21 to 23 ounces per square yard (see section 4, table IV). 5 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-C-2939lA(MC) 1 3.3.4.4.3 Breakinu strensth. The breaking strength of the finished laminated cloth shall be 100 p

29、ounds minimum in the warp direction and 80 pounds minimum in the filling direction when tested as specified in section 4, table IV. After being subjected to the accelerated aging test (see section 4, table IV), the breaking strength of the cloth shall be not less than the original breaking strength

30、when tested as specified in section 4, table IV. 3.3.5 Paddins for collar. The material for padding the collar shall be a suitable cotton felt, white, weighing 4.25 to 4.75 ounces per square yard when tested as specified in section 4, table IV. 33.6 Coat fronts. The coat fronts shall conform to clas

31、s 2 Of MIL-C-82114. 3.3.7 Sleevehead and shoulder pads. - The sleevehead pads shall conform to type IV of MIL-P-15064 and the shoulder pads shall conform to type I, class 2 of MIL-P-15064, 3.3.8 Hanaer braid. The braid for the coat hanger shall be cotton or rayon tubular flat hraid 1/8 to 3/16 inch

32、wide, minimum breaking strength 50 pounds, black color conforming to type IX, 3.3.9 Bias bindinq. The binding for the raw edge of seam ,.lass 1 of MIL-B-371. i allowance shall be bias cut from the lining material specified in 3.1.2. The binding for the raw edge of seam allowances shall be 3/4 inch w

33、ide and shall have sized edges. 3.3.10 Pipinq. The material for piping the shoulder straps, the upper and lower edges of the collar, the upper, lower ancl Back edges or ornamental sleeve pieces, and the bottom and lef: front edges of the coat shall be cloth, broadcloth, wool, scarlet shade 2501 (see

34、 6.3), 14 ounce, conforming to type I, of MIL-C-29405. 3.3.11 Tape. The tape shall be cotton, conforming to type III, class 1 of DDD-T-86. The tape for the armholes, backvent, and waist seam shall be 1/4 inch wide and the tape for the right front edge shall be 3/8 inch wide. 3.3.12 Wiuan. The materi

35、al for reinforcing the bottom edge of ths sleeves shall be cloth, cotton, wigan, 2.5 ounces1 natural color, conforming to type I of MIL-C-16375. 3.3.13 Thread. 6 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-3.3.13.1 Silk thread. The silk thread sh

36、all conform to V- T-301. The thread for machine sewing shall conform to type I, size A, for all bartacks and all outside seaming and stitching; size F and size B for buttonholes, bobbin or looperand needle threads, respectively, and size O for machine felling. The thread for hand sewing shall be typ

37、e III, class 3, size C, 2-ply of V-T-301. As an alternate to the silk thread, nylon thread conforming to V-T-295, type I, class A/3 in lieu of silk type I ticket 0/3 and type IC, class A, size C/2 in lieu of silk type III, class 3 ticket C/2 may be used. 3.3.13.2 Cotton thread. The cotton thread sha

38、ll conform to V-T-276, type IC2, mercerized finish, ticket No. A, 3-ply for all inside seaming and stitching, overedge stitching, and for buttonholes; type IB3, glazed finish, ticket No. 24, 4-ply for sewing on buttons and machine tacking armholes. basting shall be a good commercial grade. may be us

39、ed for those basting operations where the thread is required to be removed, provided the garment is subsequently given a treatment by a dry cleaning agent in which the synthetic thread is soluble. remaining on the garment after the dry cleaning process shall be brushed off or removed. 3.3.13.4 Color

40、 and colorfastness. All thread shall be black AA, Cable No. 66043, (See DOD Standard Color Card of Official Standardized Shades for Sewing Threads, 1968) except cotton thread for basting and for machine tacking armholes, which may be white. The colored threads, when tested as specified in the applic

41、able thread specification, shall show good fastness to wet (dry) cleaning and, in addition, the silk thread shall show good fastness to light. 3.3.14 Gim. The buttonhole gimp shall be cotton, No. 8, soft or glazed finish, conforming to type I or type II of V-T- 280. The color of the gimp shall be bl

42、ack AA, Cable No. 66043 showing good fastness to wet (dry) cleaning. The thread for 3.3.13.3 Synthetic thread. A monofilament synthetic thread When this thread is used, any residue O a 3.3.15 Buttons. 3.3.15.1 Insiania buttons. The insignia buttons shall be metal, goldplated, Marine Corps design, 27

43、-line, conforming to type I, style 3, class A, subclass 1 of MIL-B-3461. 7 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-9 3.3.15.1.1 Rinu tomles. Ring toggles for securing buttons to ornamental sleeve pieces and shoulders shall conform to MIL- B-3

44、461. 3.3.15.1.2 Reinforcements. The reinforcement discs for buttons secured to shoulders and ornamental sleeve pieces with ring toggles shall be punched from the cloth, cotton, buckram specified in 3.3.4. 3.3.15.2 Sewincs - hole buttons. The sewing hole buttons shall be melamine formaldehyde composi

45、tion, glossy finish, conforming to type II, class D, style 20 or 21, 34-line and style 4, 22-line of V-B-871. The color shall be black BT Cable No. 62001. (See DOD Standard Shades for Buttons, 1966.) 3.3.16 Hooks and eye, The hook and eye for closing the collar shall be brass, black japanned finish,

46、 or black chemical finish in accordance with MIL-F-495, followed by clear lacquer coating and shall conform to the requirements shown in figure 1 and the following. 3.3.16.1 Closure finish, All surfaces and edges of the - hook and eye shall be clean, smooth, and free from burrs, tool marks, sharp ed

47、ges, and roughness. The hook and eye shall be thoroughly and completely lacquered with the best available quality of black japanned lacquer. continuous, level, adherent, free from lint, dust, or other foreign inclusions that may affect appearance or serviceability, and shall withstand the test for t

48、ackiness specified in section 4, table IV. All apertures of the finished lacquered hook and eye shall be completely open, and free of any lacquer film or black chemical finish. The dry lacquer film shall be 3.3.17 Labels. Each coat shall have an identification label, a size label and an instruction

49、label as follows. The coat is intended to be dry cleaned and the labels shall show fastnes-s to dry cleaning. 3.3.17.1 Identification label. The identification label shall conform to type I, class 1, of DDD-L-20 and shall measure 8 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-not less than 2-1/2 inches wide by 1-1/2 inches long. The content and format shall be as fol