ASTM D204-2002(2010) Standard Test Methods for Sewing Threads.pdf

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1、Designation: D204 02 (Reapproved 2010)Standard Test Methods forSewing Threads1This standard is issued under the fixed designation D204; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year oforiginal adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parenthe

2、ses indicates the year of last reapproval. Asuperscript epsilon () indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.This standard has been approved for use by agencies of the Department of Defense.1. Scope1.1 These test methods can be used to evaluate sewingthreads of any fiber.1.

3、1.1 The test methods in this standard are intended toevaluate only sewing thread taken from thread holders.1.2 These test methods only provide for the measurement ofsewing thread physical properties. These test methods do notaddress any other properties that may be important for thesatisfactory perf

4、ormance of sewing threads under particularend use conditions.1.3 These test methods can be used to measure the follow-ing properties:SectionsColorfastness to Drycleaning 73-83Colorfastness to Laundering 62-72Colorfastness to Water Migration 84-94Diameter 43-50Length per Thread Holder 34-42Shrinkage,

5、 Single Strand 51-61Dry Heat 58.1Boiling Water 58.2Strength and Elongation 15-21Single StrandConditioned 19.1.1Single StrandWet 19.1.2Loop Strength 19.2Knot Strength 19.3Twist 22-27Twist Balance 28-33Yarn Number 7-14NOTE 1For methods covering tests on prepared seams, refer to TestMethods D1683 and D

6、3940.1.4 The values stated in SI units are to be regarded asstandard; the values in English units are provided as informa-tion only and are not exact equivalents.1.5 This standard does not purport to address all of thesafety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is theresponsibility of the u

7、ser of this standard to establish appro-priate safety and health practices and determine the applica-bility of regulatory limitations prior to use.2. Referenced Documents2.1 ASTM Standards:2D76 Specification for Tensile Testing Machines for TextilesD123 Terminology Relating to TextilesD1422 Test Met

8、hod for Twist in Single Spun Yarns by theUntwist-Retwist MethodD1423 Test Method for Twist in Yarns by Direct-CountingD1683 Test Method for Failure in Sewn Seams of WovenApparel FabricsD1776 Practice for Conditioning and Testing TextilesD1777 Test Method for Thickness of Textile MaterialsD1907 Test

9、Method for Linear Density of Yarn (YarnNumber) by the Skein MethodD2256 Test Method for Tensile Properties of Yarns by theSingle-Strand MethodD2258 Practice for Sampling Yarn for TestingD2724 Test Methods for Bonded, Fused, and LaminatedApparel FabricsD3693 Specification for Labeled Length per Holde

10、r ofSewing ThreadD3823 Practice for Determining Ticket Numbers for Sew-ing ThreadsD3940 NO TITLED4848 Terminology Related to Force, Deformation andRelated Properties of TextilesD4849 Terminology Related to Yarns and FibersD6193 Practice for Stitches and Seams2.2 AATCC Standards:Test Method 135 Dimen

11、sional Changes in Automatic HomeLaundering of Woven and Knit Fabrics3Evaluation Procedure 1, Gray Scale for Color Change3Evaluation Procedure 3, Chromatic Transference Scale33. Terminology3.1 Definitions:1These test methods are under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee D13 onTextiles and are the dire

12、ct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.58 on Yarns andFibers.Current edition approved June 1, 2010. Published July 2010. Originallypublished as D204 24 T. Last previous edition approved in 2002 as D204 02.DOI: 10.1520/D0204-10.2For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, orco

13、ntact ASTM Customer Service at serviceastm.org. For Annual Book of ASTMStandards volume information, refer to the standards Document Summary page onthe ASTM website.3Available from American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists, P.O.Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709.1Copyright ASTM

14、 International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959, United States.3.1.1 Refer to Terminology D4848 for definitions of thefollowing terms used in this standard elongation; force andloop-breaking force.3.1.2 Refer to Terminology D4849 for definitions of thefollowing t

15、erms used in this standard colorfastness; coveredyarn, greige thread, growth, sew, sewing force, sewing thread,tex, thread holder, ticket number, and yarn number.3.1.3 Refer to Terminology D123 for definitions of otherterms used in this standard including the following; shrinkage,stitch, stitching,

16、stitch type, and twist balance.4. Significance and Use4.1 Acceptance TestingThe test methods in Test MethodsD204 for the determination of the properties of sewing threadare considered satisfactory for acceptance testing of commer-cial shipments of sewing thread, unless specified in theindividual tes

17、t method. These test methods are the bestavailable and are used extensively in the trade.4.1.1 If there are differences of practical significance be-tween reported test results for two laboratories (or more)comparative test should be performed to determine if there is astatistical bias between them

18、using competent statistical assis-tance. As a minimum, use the samples for such a comparativetests that are as homogeneous as possible, drawn from the samelot of material as the samples that resulted in disparate resultsduring initial testing and randomly assigned in equal numbersto each laboratory.

19、 The test results from the laboratoriesinvolved should be compared using a statistical test forunpaired data, a probability level chosen prior to the testingseries. If a bias is found, either its cause must be found andcorrected, or future test results for that material must beadjusted in considerat

20、ion of the known bias.5. Sampling5.1 Lot SampleAs a lot sample for acceptance testing,take at random the number of shipping units directed in anapplicable material specification or other agreement betweenthe purchaser and the supplier, such as an agreement to usePractice D2258. Consider shipping cas

21、es or other shippingunits to be the primary sampling units.NOTE 2An adequate specification or other agreement between thepurchaser and the supplier requires taking into account variability betweenshipping units, between packages, or ends within a shipping unit, andbetween specimens from a single pac

22、kage so as to provide a sampling planwith a meaningful producers risk, consumers risk, acceptable qualitylevel, and limiting quality level.5.2 Laboratory SampleAs a laboratory sample for accep-tance testing, take at random from each shipping unit in the lotsample the number of packages or ends direc

23、ted in anapplicable material specification or other agreement to usePractice D2258. Preferably, the same number of packagesshould be taken from each shipping unit in the lot sample. Ifdiffering numbers of packages are to be taken from shippingunits in the lot sample, determine at random which shippi

24、ngunits are to have each number of packages drawn.5.3 Test SpecimensFrom each package in the laboratorysample, take three specimens, unless otherwise specified.When packages contain more than one parallel wound end,select one end from which to prepare the three specimens.6. Conditioning6.1 For routi

25、ne testing, condition the samples as directed inPractice D1776.6.2 When preconditioning is specified in a material specifi-cation or contract order precondition the prepared specimensfor at least3hinanatmosphere with relative humidity between10 and 25 % and a temperature not exceeding 50C (122F) asd

26、irected in Practice D1776.6.2.1 After preconditioning, expose the specimens to mov-ing air in the standard atmosphere for testing textiles, 21 6 1C(706 2F) and 65 6 2 % relative humidity, until the mass ofthe specimen(s) increases by no more than 0.1 % after2hinthe standard atmosphere.YARN NUMBER7.

27、Scope7.1 This test method determines the resultant yarn numberof all types of sewing threads taken from a thread holder.8. Summary of Test Method8.1 A measured length of conditioned thread is wound on areel and weighed. The resultant yarn number is expressed intex.9. Significance and Use9.1 This tes

28、t method should be used to establish standardticket numbers for sewing threads according to PracticeD3823.10. Apparatus10.1 Reel:10.1.1 GeneralA hand or motor-driven reel having aspecified perimeter. The reel shall be fitted with a traversingmechanism that will avoid bunching the successive wraps, a

29、ndwith an indicator of the length wound. A warning bell that willring at a specified length is recommended. It is advisable thatone arm be collapsible to allow for easy removal of skeins.10.2 Balance:10.2.1 For the determination of mean yarn number, abalance of suitable capacity graduated in grams w

30、ith a sensi-tivity of 1 part in 100.10.2.2 For ascertaining the completion of conditioning, abalance of suitable capacity graduated in grams with a sensi-tivity of 1 part in 1000 needed.11. Conditioning11.1 Use skeins wound with the given wraps as noted inTable 1 and follow the directions given in S

31、ection 6.D204 02 (2010)212. Procedure12.1 Determine the resultant yarn number in tex as directedin Option 1 of Test Method D1907, except that in place ofTable 2 in D1907 use Table 1 of Test Methods D204.13. Report13.1 State that the specimens were tested as directed in TestMethods D204. Describe the

32、 material(s) or product(s) sampledand the method of sampling used.13.2 Report the following information:13.2.1 Mean yarn number to three significant figures,13.2.2 Coefficient of variation of yarn number to twosignificant figures,13.2.3 Reel perimeter,13.2.4 Length of skein, and13.2.5 Number of spec

33、imens.14. Precision and Bias14.1 The precision and bias for testing yarn number are asgiven in Test Method D1907.STRENGTH AND ELONGATION15. Scope15.1 This test method can be used to determine single strandbreaking force and elongation of sewing threads. Single strandtesting includes loop strength, k

34、not strength and elongation atsewing forces.16. Summary of Test Method16.1 Single strand yarn specimens are broken on a tensiletesting machine at a predetermined elongation rate and thetensile properties are determined.16.2 The test method offers the following three physicalconfigurations of the spe

35、cimen:16.2.1 straight,16.2.2 looped,16.2.3 knotted.17. Significance and Use17.1 There are several properties of sewing thread that aresignificant with regards to sewing and seam performance,including: straight breaking strength, loop breaking strength,loop elongation, elongation at sewing force, and

36、 knot strength.17.1.1 Straight StrengthThe straight breaking strength ofa thread can be used to calculate the loop breaking strengthonce a regression equation has been determined because theloop properties are strongly dependent on the straight strength.17.1.2 Loop StrengthThe loop breaking strength

37、 is ameasure of the threads ability to contribute to seam perfor-mance. Loop breaking strength of a thread bears a directrelationship to stitch breaking strength and hence to seambreaking strength.17.1.3 Loop ElongationThe loop elongation of the threadis one important factor contributing to elongati

38、on of a seam,along with the stitch and seam type, the number of stitches perinch, and the nature of the material stitched.17.1.4 Elongation at Sewing ForceThe elongation atsewing force of a thread influences its behavior during thestitching cycle on a sewing machine.17.1.5 Knot StrengthThe reduction

39、 in breaking force dueto the presence of a knot is considered a measure of thebrittleness of the thread.18. Conditioning18.1 Condition the specimens as directed in Section 6 ofthese Test Methods D204.19. Procedure19.1 Straight Strength and Elongation:19.1.1 Conditioned ThreadsSelect conditioned spec

40、imensand determine breaking force and elongation as directed inOption A1 of Test Method D2256 except that a 250 6 3mm(10.0 6 0.1 in.) or 500 6 5 mm (20.0 6 0.2 in.) gage lengthand a constant-rate-of-extension (CRE) type tensile testingmachine having a jaw separation rate of 300 6 10 mm/min(12.0 6 0.

41、5 in./min) shall be used. Disregard the 20 s to breakrequirement.19.1.2 Wet ThreadsSelect conditioned specimens and de-termine the breaking force and elongation as directed in OptionA2 of Test Method D2256 except that a CRE type testingmachine having a jaw separation rate of 300 6 10 mm/min(12.0 6 0

42、.5 in./min) shall be used. Disregard the 20 s to breakrequirement.19.2 Loop StrengthSelect conditioned specimens and de-termine the loop breaking force as directed in Option C1 ofTest Method D2256. Disregard the 20 s to break.19.3 Knot StrengthSelect conditioned specimens and de-termine the knot bre

43、aking force as directed in Option B1 ofTest Method D2256. Disregard the 20 s to break.TABLE 1 Number of Wraps for Determining Resultant YarnNumberResultant Yarn Number 1-m Reel Perimeter1.5 yd ReelPerimeterAll thread finer than 250 tex 100 wraps 80 wraps100 m 120 ydAll threads 250 tex and coarser 10

44、 wraps 8 wraps10 m 12 ydTABLE 2 Number of Wraps to be Reeled in Any One Skein inChecking Length by Skein MethodResultant Yarn Number 1-m Reel Perimeter1.5 yd ReelPerimeterAll thread finer than 50 tex 200 wraps 200 wraps200 m 300 ydThreads of 50 tex up to 100 tex 100 wraps 100 wraps100 m 150 ydAll th

45、reads 100 tex and coarser 50 wraps 50 wraps50 m 75 ydD204 02 (2010)319.4 Elongation at Sewing ForcesTest the specimens asdirected for conditioned thread in 19.1.1. Read the elongationfrom the force elongation chart or display at the force specifiedfor the needle thread of the seam to be sewn.19.4.1

46、If the force on the needle thread is not known, aguideline for sewing elongation can be obtained by reading theforce-extension chart, or display at a force of 227 g (12 lb) forthread used for seams in light-weight fabrics in the 0.135 to270 g/m, or (4 to 8 oz/yd) range and at a force of 340 g (34 lb

47、)for thread used for seams in heavy fabrics 270 to 0.520 g/m (8to 15 oz/yd).20. Report20.1 State that the specimens were tested as directed in TestMethods D204. Describe the material(s) or product(s) sampledand the method of sampling used.20.2 Report the following information:20.2.1 Options if other

48、 than A1,20.2.2 Testing machine type if other than CRE,20.2.3 Gage length tested,20.2.4 Number of specimens tested,20.2.5 The average of the breaking forces for a sample is thesample breaking strength.20.2.6 Average and coefficient of variation of percent elon-gation at break or at specified force a

49、s determined for single-strand, knot and loop configurations, and20.2.7 Average elongation at sewing forces, loop elonga-tion, either or both, if determined.21. Precision and Bias21.1 The precision and bias for testing strength and elonga-tion are given in Test Method D2256.TWIST22. Scope22.1 This test method determines the amount and directionof twist at the completion of any stage of twisting in single(spun or filament), plied, or cabled thread. The procedures aredesigned primarily for thread on holders.23. Summary of Test Method23.1 The turns of tw