BS 6476-1984 Guide to garment quality and relevant British Standards《服装质量指南和有关英国标准指南》.pdf

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1、BRITISH STANDARD BS 6476:1984 Guide to Garment quality and relevant British Standards UDC 687.1:006.83BS6476:1984 This British Standard, having been prepared under the directionof the Clothing Standards Committee, was published under the authority ofthe Board of BSI and comes intoeffect on 29 Februa

2、ry 1984 BSI 07-1999 The following BSI references relate to the work on this standard: Committee reference CLM/15 Draft for comment 83/35516 DC ISBN 0 580 13751 1 Committees responsible for this British Standard The preparation of this British Standard was entrusted by the Clothing Standards Committe

3、e (CLM/-) to Technical Committee CLM/15 upon which the following bodies were represented: British Clothing Industry Association British Interlining Manufacturers Association British Nonwoven Manufacturers Association Consumer Standards Advisory Committee of BSI International Wool Secretariat Knittin

4、g Industries Federation Limited Mail Order Traders Association of Great Britain Ministry of Defence National Childrens Wear Association Amendments issued since publication Amd. No. Date of issue CommentsBS 6476:1984 BSI 07-1999 i Contents Page Committees responsible Inside front cover Foreword ii 1

5、Scope 1 2 Definitions 1 3 Garment design and production stages 1 3.1 General 1 3.2 Pre-production 1 3.3 Lay planning 3 3.4 Laying-up, cutting and fusing 3 3.5 Fully-fashioned knitwear production 3 3.6 Make-up and under-pressing 3 3.7 Final pressing 4 3.8 Final examination 4 3.9 Labelling 4 3.10 Pack

6、aging 5 Table 1 Garment design and production stages 1BS6476:1984 ii BSI 07-1999 Foreword This British Standard has been prepared under the direction of the Clothing Standards Committee. In December1979, Parts 1, 2 and3 of BS 5750 “Quality Systems” were published. These standards specify requirement

7、s for three basic levels of system for the assurance of material and services as follows: Part 1: Specification for design, manufacture and installation; Part 2: Specification for manufacture and installation; Part 3: Specification for final inspection and test. The level of system necessary to assu

8、re quality will depend on the nature of the material or service required. The publication of BS5750 reflected the growing interest in and demand for a standard dealing with the maintenance of quality in materials or services that would be able to provide means of assessing the capabilities of any qu

9、ality control system. Within the clothing industry, however, it was suggested that although BS5750 was of direct relevance to the larger manufacturers it could well be that many of the smaller manufacturers would not be able to use BS5750 easily. It was therefore proposed that a standard should be p

10、roduced for this part of the clothing industry. This standard, by reference to existing standards, covers recommended procedures for selection of materials and quality checking through the garment-making process. These procedures highlight the factors in design, specification and production that par

11、ticularly affect final garment quality and refer to British Standards dealing with aspects of quality assurance and control. The aim is to list the factors that should be taken into account in the manufacture of a garment that will affect its quality and to link these factors to stages in garment pr

12、oduction. Thus at each stage in production, and this standard covers all forms of garment assembly including knitwear, there is identified a group of standards relevant to quality and fitness for purpose for the materials or processes being used. The lists are not exhaustive and are intended as guid

13、es. No performance level values are set since these will vary and should be selected according to the fabric and the type of garment to be produced. However, all the factors listed are important in the maintenance of good quality in all types of garment. Detailed recommendations on machine maintenan

14、ce have not been included as it was considered that it would be impossible to cover all types of machinery likely to be used in the clothing industry. A British Standard does not purport to include all the necessary provisions of a contract. Users of British Standards are responsible for their corre

15、ct application. Compliance with a British Standard does not of itself confer immunity from legal obligations. Summary of pages This document comprises a front cover, an inside front cover, pages i and ii, pages1to5 and a back cover. This standard has been updated (see copyright date) and may have ha

16、d amendments incorporated. This will be indicated in the amendment table on the inside front cover.BS 6476:1984 BSI 07-1999 1 1 Scope This British Standard provides guidance on relevant British Standards and factors concerned with quality to be considered at the various stages in the design and manu

17、facture of all types of garment. 2 Definitions For the purposes of this British Standard, the definitions given in BS1903 “Glossary of terms used by the clothing industry” apply. 3 Garment design and production stages 3.1 General. Garments of inferior quality result from many factors or combinations

18、 of factors including poor design and insufficient development, selection of the wrong combination of materials, poor production planning and workplace design, low levels of machine maintenance, inadequate specification, ineffective inspection and poor staff training or motivation. A list of the var

19、ious stages generally encountered from initial design to final examination of a garment is given in Table 1. Each stage has particular British Standards associated with it and these are listed in the clause dealing with that particular stage in production. NOTEThe labelled stages are intended to be

20、as comprehensive as possible without over complicating the table. Individual processes or systems are likely to vary from organization to organization, but it is hoped that the greater part of Table 1 will be relevant. Table 1 Garment design and production stages 3.2 Pre-production 3.2.1 General. Th

21、e design of garments and the materials used should be related to fitness for purpose and the method of production. Materials and trimmings selected for production of garments should be compatible with each other. There are a number of British Standards for garments that specify important performance

22、 and construction characteristics to be considered in a garment specification; these standards are as follows. BS 4170, Waterproof protective clothing. BS 4171, Specification for donkey jackets. BS 4679, Protective suits for construction workers and others in similar arduous activities. BS 5426, Spe

23、cification for workwear. BS 5919, Specification for childrens anoraks. BS 6308, Specification for mens uniforms. 3.2.2 Grading, pattern cutting and sample making. Grading should be done in a logical sequence ensuring that the original design concept is maintained and that patterns will produce garme

24、nts in conformity with a predetermined proven size schedule. Care should be taken to ensure that reference samples are produced under conditions that are as close as possible to factory production methods. 3.2.3 Storage of materials. Materials on receipt should be examined for damage and discrepanci

25、es, appropriately labelled, examined against the specification and stored in accordance with the manufacturers instructions. 3.2.4 British Standards relevant to material selection and garment production 3.2.4.1 Fabric construction BS 2861BS 2866, Methods for the analysis of woven fabric construction

26、. BS 4326, Descriptions of woven textiles (excluding wool) for use in the finishing trade. BS 4407, Methods of test. Quantitative analysis of fibre mixtures. 3.2.4.2 Fabric performance BS 1006, Methods of test for colour fastness of textiles and leather. BS 2471, Methods of test for textiles Woven f

27、abrics Determination of mass per unit length and mass per unit area. BS 2576, Methods of test for textiles Woven fabrics Determination of breaking strength and elongation (strip method). BS 2823, Methods of test for the resistance of fabrics to penetration by water (Hydrostatic head test). Stage Cla

28、use Pre-production (including design, materials selection, pattern making and sample making) 3.2 Lay planning 3.3 Laying-up, cutting and fusing 3.4 Fully-fashioned knitwear production 3.5 Make-up and under-pressing 3.6 Final pressing 3.7 Final examination 3.8 Labelling 3.9 Packaging 3.10BS6476:1984

29、2 BSI 07-1999 BS 3086, Method for determination of recovery from creasing of textile fabrics by measuring the angle of recovery. BS 3424, Testing coated fabrics. BS 3546, Coated fabrics for water resistant clothing. BS 3702, Method of test for determination of resistance of textile fabrics to surfac

30、e wetting (spray test). BS 4923, Schedule of domestic washing and drying procedures for textile testing. BS 4961, Methods for determination of dimensional stability of textiles to dry cleaning in tetrachloroethylene. BS 5066, Method of test for the resistance of fabrics to an artificial shower. BS 5

31、438, Methods of test for flammability of vertically oriented textile fabrics and fabric assemblies subjected to a small igniting flame. BS 5441, Methods of test for knitted fabrics. BS 5690, Method of test for determination of the abrasion resistance of fabrics. BS 5722, Specification for flammabili

32、ty performance of fabrics and fabric assemblies used in sleepwear tested by BS5438. BS 5807, Method of test for determination of dimensional change of textiles in domestic washing and drying. BS 5811, Method of test for determination of the resistance to pilling of woven fabrics (pill testing box me

33、thod). BS 6249, Materials and material assemblies used in clothing for protection against heat and flame. BS 6249-1, Specification for testing and performance. 3.2.4.3 Garment ancillaries BS 1625-6 and 4830, Woven cotton tapes, light, medium and heavy qualities. BS 1850, Elastic flat braids containi

34、ng natural rubber with cotton rayon or nylon. BS 3084, Specification for slide fasteners. BS 3102, Brass eyelets and washers for general purposes. BS 3866, Specification for holes and shanks in buttons. BS 4162, Methods of test for buttons. BS 4270, Woven elastic webbing with natural rubber for mens

35、 trunk tops. BS 4546, Knitted elastic fabric with natural rubber for trunk tops. BS 4560, Specification for fabrics for linings in uniform clothing. BS 4973, Interlinings. BS 5742, Specification for textile labels requiring to be washed and/or dry cleaned. 3.2.4.4 Size coding schemes and informative

36、 labelling BS 1903, Glossary of terms used by the clothing industry. BS 2747, Textile care labelling code. BS 3666, Specification for size designation of womens wear. BS 3728, Specification for size designation of childrens and infants wear. BS 5511, Size designation of clothes Definitions and body

37、measurement procedure. BS 6185, Specification for size designation of mens wear. 3.2.4.5 Stitches and seams BS 3320, Method for the determination of seam slippage of woven fabrics. BS 3870, Stitches and seams. BS 3870-1, Classification and terminology of stitch types. BS 3870-2, Classification and t

38、erminology of seam types. BS 4134, Specification for the ticket numbering of industrial sewing threads. BS 6157, Specification for industrial sewing threads made wholly or partly from synthetic fibres. 3.2.4.6 Quality assurance BS 4778, Glossary of terms used in quality assurance (including reliabil

39、ity and maintainability terms). BS 4891, A guide to quality assurance. BS 5497, Precision of test methods. BS 5701, Guide to number defective charts for quality control. BS 5703, Guide to data analysis and quality control using cusum techniques. BS 5750, Quality systems. BS 5781, Measurement and cal

40、ibration systems. BS 5781-1, Specification of system requirements. BS 5781-2, Guide to the use of BS 5781-1 “Specification of system requirements”. BS 6000, Guide to the use of BS6001. Sampling procedures and tables for inspection by attributes. BS 6001, Sampling procedures and tables for inspection

41、 by attributes. BS 6002, Specification for sampling procedures and charts for inspection by variables for percent defective. BS 6476:1984 BSI 07-1999 3 3.3 Lay planning. Instructions for this area of operations should include mention of the following factors: a) pattern pieces to be correctly positi

42、oned on fabric grain; b) all required pattern pieces to be included; c) provision to be made for matching checks/stripes; d) pattern pieces to be correctly positioned for pile or one-way fabrics; e) no overlapping of pattern pieces to be present and sufficient space to be available between parts for

43、 accurate cutting; f) all pieces to be correctly identified by size, style, etc.; g) line definition to be satisfactory (not too thick, no parts of lines missing); h) marking to be accurate; i) all notches and drill marks to be included and correctly positioned; j) parts to be fully marked within th

44、e defined lay width. 3.4 Laying-up, cutting and fusing 3.4.1 General. In these stages of production the aspects detailed in 3.4.2, 3.4.3 and 3.4.4 should be covered in the garment making specifications. Machinery manufacturers normally provide detailed information on their products and it is essenti

45、al to follow their recommendations to obtain the best possible performance compatible with safe working practice. NOTEIn this as in all other stages of the production process it is essential to ensure safe working conditions at all times. 3.4.2 Laying-up. Fabrics should be tension-free, straight and

46、 pattern-matched. Procedures should be specified if necessary for dealing with the following: a) one-way materials; b) material batch separation; c) fault marking and cutting out; d) correct positioning of notches and drill holes. 3.4.3 Cutting. Knife profile and speed of cutting can affect the qual

47、ity of garments. The machine type to be used should be specified and linked with instructions on setting of knives. Clear statements on the need for cleanliness and attention to safety aspects should be provided. Information on ticket and bundling systems to be used should be unambiguous. 3.4.4 Fusi

48、ng. The specification should call for checks to be carried out by competent personnel at least twice daily (morning and afternoon) of the time, temperature and pressure settings of the fusing press. The cleanliness of press covers should be included in these checks. Press settings can be monitored b

49、y bond strength measurements on test samples fused at the same time as garment parts. Fused parts should be inspected when cooled and before any subsequent operations, to check for colour and appearance changes and shrinkage. 3.5 Fully-fashioned knitwear production. Instructions should be available showing all necessary details for the garment being produced, e.g. machine type, yarn type and linear density, stitch length and courses per unit length. Knitting machines should be checked against the specification once a shift and this checking recorded.