NAVY MIL-C-29123 A-1973 COAT WOMAN-S SUMMER (NAVY)《女式夏季外套(海军)》.pdf

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1、1. SCOPE 1.1 Scope.- This specification covers the requirements for a blue and white summer coat fabricated from a polyester fiber-cotton cord fabric. 1.2 Classification,- The coats covered by this specification shall be of one type only in the following sizes and lengths as specified (see 6.2): Siz

2、es: Lengths: Short, Regular and Long 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 18, 20 and 22 2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS 2.1 The following documents of the issue in effect on date of invitation for bids or request for proposal, form a part of this specification to the extent specified herein: SPECIFICATIO

3、NS FEDERAL V-T-O - Thread, Cotton Gimp, Buttonhole V-T-285 - Thread, Polyester DDD-E20 - Label; for Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage PPP-B-636 - Box, Fiberboard PPP-T-45 ( General Use ) - Tape, Gummed, Paper, Reinforced and Plain, for Sealing and Securing FSC 8410 I ._ Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo

4、 reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-STD-105 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes MIL-STD-129 - Marking for Shipment and Storage MIL-STD-1608 - Provisions for Evaluating Quality of Coats , Womens , Dress (Copies of specifications , standards

5、 , drawings , and publications required I by suppliers in connection with specific procurement functions should be .obtained from the procuring activity or as directed by the contracting officer.) 2.2 Other publications.- The following documents form a part of this 1 specification to the extent spec

6、ified herein. Unless otherwise indicated , the issues in effect on date of invitation for bids or request for proposal shall apply. NATIONAL MOTOR FREIGHT TRAFFIC ASSOCIATION, INC., AGENT National Motor Freight Classification (Application for copies shall be add.ressed to the American Trucking Assoc

7、iation, Inc. , Tariff Order Section, 1616 P Street, N.W. , Washington, I D.C. 20036.) (Application for copies shall be addressed to the Uniform Classification Committee, Room 1106 , 222 South Riverside Plaza, Chicago , Illinois 60606. ) I 3. REQUIREMENTS 2 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproductio

8、n or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-C-29123A( SA) 3.1 Guide sample.- Samples, when furnished, are solely for guidance and Variation from this specification information to the supplier (see 6.3). may appear in the sample, in which case this specification shall govern. 3.2 First

9、 article approval.- The requirement for first article will be as specified by the procuring activity (see 6.2). 3.3 Materias. - 3.3.1 Basic material.- The basic material shall be corded polyester-cotton warp and polyester filling, shade Blue 3304, conforming to MIL-C-40052. 3.3.2 Piping.- The piping

10、 shall be made from the basic material specified in 3.3.1, except that the shade shall match Blue 3306 and shall be obtained by piece dyeing. 3.3.2.1 Twine, cotton.- The cotton twine shall be bleached and shall consist of 24 plies approximately i/8 inch thick when tested as specified in 4.3.1. 3.3.2

11、.2 Construction of the piping.- The fabric shall be cut on a 45 2 5 degree angle in strips 7/8 (+1/8) inch wide. The ends of the strips shall be joined together with stitch type 301, seam type SSa-1 of FED-STD-751 with not less than 10 nor more than i4 stitches per inch with the seam pressed open an

12、d flat. The strip shall be folded in half lengthwise, with the cord (twine) inserted along the length of the fold. stitch type 101 or 301, seam type SSbf-3(a) with not less than 6 nor more than 8 stitches per inch. piping shall conform to letter size AA, 2-ply, type I or II, class 1, black C.A. No.

13、66043 conforming to V-T-285. The edges of the bias cut strip shall be treated to prevent raveling. Stitch i/4 (5 1/16) inch from treated edges with The thread used for the construction of the corded 3.3.3 Thread.- The thread shall be shade white AG, C.A. No. 66049 (except black AA, C.A. No. 66043 fo

14、r attaching the piping), polyester, letter size AA, 2-ply for the buttonhole needle thread, and letter size A, 3-ply for buttonhole bobbin thread and for all other stitchings, conforming to type I or II, class 1 of v-285. Polyester cotton-covered thread conforming to MIET-43548 may be substituted fo

15、r the polyester thread using size 50 for the size A thread and size 70 for the size AA. 3.3.4 Interlining. - The material for interlining the front and bottom facings and collar shall conform to type II, class 1 of MIL-C-43836. 3.3.5 Adhesive tickets.- Adhesive tickets, when used for shade or size m

16、arking, shall be of paper with a thermo-activated or pressure-sensitive adhesive applied on one side that will withstand steam pressing operations. The adhesive shall not discolor the material and the adhesive mass shall not adhere to the material upon removal of the tickets. 3 Provided by IHSNot fo

17、r ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-C-29123A( SA) 3.3.6 Buttons.- The Navy blue eagle buttons shall be 28 (+ 1) line, melamine formaldehyde. the body of the button during the molding process. Gircular with a convex front. The buttons shall have a regulati

18、on U.S. Navy device sharply reproduced on its face which shall be in accordance with the Feference sample. The buttons shall be provided with nickel silver wire Bodkin toggle fasteners, permanently secured to the shank of the button, for attaching and removing. shall be approximately 0.045 inch in d

19、iameter. The shape of the fastener shall be such that the eye of the shank will be held at the center of the fastener. The fastener shall be formed by bending the wire double at its center. The eye of the button shall be passed over one end of the wire, and the two ends then secured together by a ni

20、ckel silver or nickel plated brass cap or similar device. The shank plate shall be made from 0.016 low brass and the shank wire shall be made from 0.072 low brass 1/2 round wire. nickel plated not less than 0,00002 inch thick. from the shank plate shall be 0.210 (f 0.010) inch, the outside diameter

21、width of the shank eye shall be 0,205 to 0.225 inch, and the inside diameter of the shank eye shall be a minimum of 0.100 inch. The shank shall be swedged to the inside of the back plate to prevent the shank from coming loose or pulling out (see 4.3. i). 3.3.7 Labels.- 3.3.7.1 Combination label.- Ea

22、ch coat shall have a combination identification, The shank shall be centered and firmly imbedded in The buttons shall be The fastener shall be 1 (2 1/8) inch long. The fastener wire The shank plate and wire shall be The height of the shank eye size and personal label conforming to type I, classes 1,

23、 2, and 10 combined, of DDD-L-20. The fastness to laundering requirements of DDD-L-20 shall apply. The label shall measure not less than 1 5/16 inches in width and 2 3/4 inches in length and shall bear the following inscriptions: NAME: SERVICE NO: COAT, WOMANS, SUMMER (WAVY) FIBER CONTENT - CORDED P

24、OLYESTER-COTTOB WARP AND POLYESTER FILLING CONTMCT NO : DSA-100-00-0-0000 (EXAMPLE) SIZE : 14R (EXAMPLE) STOCK NO: 8410-000-0000 (EXAMPLE) NAME OF SUPPLIER: 3.3.7.2 Size label.- Each coat shall have a size label conforming to type I, class 2 of DDD-L-20, except that the label shall measure approxima

25、tely 1/2 inch by 1/2 inch and bear the following inscription: Xote: Abbreviations to be used for applicable lengths are as follows: Short -s Regular - R Long -L 4 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-C-29123A 84 797790b 0387b7L 2 3.3.8

26、 Laundering instruction tag.- Each coat shall have a white printed cardboard tag of comercial type attached by a string to the bottom button- hole. The tag shall be approximately 3 inches by 3 inches with upper case letters 1/8 inch high and lower case letters 1/16 inch high and shall bear the follo

27、wing inscription centered on the tag: LAUNDERING INSTRUCTIONS Remove buttons. or detergent. Scrub soiled areas. Launder in warm water using mild soap DO NOT USE BLEACH Rinse thoroughly in clear warm water. Do not squeeze or wring out. Hang dripping wet on plastic hanger. Press with steam iron at low

28、 heat. Use press cloth to protect piping. 3.3.9 Gimp.- The gimp for reinforcing the buttonholes shall be shade white AH, C.A. No. 66050 , cotton, type I or II, size 8, conforming to v-T-o. 3.h Design.- The coat shall be French princess style, pointed collar and half peaked lapels, single breasted, f

29、our button, front closure, short sleeves, and slanted hip welt pockets. collar, sleeves and front. The coat shall be trimmed with piping on the 3.4.1 Figures.- Figures 1 and 2 are furnished for information purposes only. To the extent of any inconsistencies between the written specification and the

30、figures, the written specification shall govern. 3.5 Patterns.- Standard patterns to be used to cut working patterns will be furnished by the Government (see 6.3). for all seam allowances except as otherwise indicated in Table I. The working patterns shall be identical to the Government patterns. Go

31、vernment patterns nor the working patterns shall be altered in any way. The patterns allow 3/8 inch Neither the 3.5.1 Pattern parts.- The component parts for the coat shall be cut from the material specified in accordance with the following pattern parts: Material Pattern Parts Cut Parts Cloth ,* po

32、lyester and cotton Center front Side front Side back Center back Front facing Sleeves Sleeve band Collar Side front facing 5 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-.MIL-C-29123A( SA) Mat eri al Pattern Parts cut Parrts Cloth, polyester and c

33、otton (cont d) Side back facing Center back facing Pocket pie ces Pocket welt Interlining Front facing interlining 2 Collar interlining 1 Bottom facing interlining 1 3.6 Construction. - 3.6.1 Stitch, seam, and stitching types.- Stitch, seam and stitching types specified in Table I shall conform to F

34、ED-STD-751. Wherever two or more methods for seam or stitch types are given for the sane part of the operation, any one of them may be used. sewn so that no raw edges, runoffs, twists, pleats or open seams will result. Unless otherwise specified, edgestitching or raisestitching shall be 1/16 inch fr

35、om edge. shall be on the inside. Seam allowances shall be maintained with seams Where stitch type 401 is used, the looper or underthread, 3.6.2 Thread breaks and ends of seams.- Ends of all seams and stitchings when not caught in other seams or stitchings shall be backtacked not less than 1/4 inch.

36、not less than 1/2 inch. Thread breaks (all stitch types) shall be secured by stitching back of the break not less than 1/2 inch. thread breaks on 401 stitch type may be repaired by using 301 stitch type. 3.6.3 Stitches per inch.- The minimum and maximum number of stitches per The ends of a continuou

37、s line of stitching shall be overlapped Skipped stitches or inch shall be as specified in Table I. 3.7 Manufacturing operations requirements.- The coat shall be manufacture in accordance with the operation requirements specified in Table I. supplier is not required to follow the exact sequence of op

38、erations listed provided that the finished coat is identical to that produced by following the sequence of operations as listed in Table I. or holding stitching used to facilitate manufacture is permissible provided that the threads are removed or do not show in the finished item. The Any additional

39、 basting 3.7.1 PressinK.- Pressing where specified in Table I shall be accomplished with a heated pressing iron or machine. 6 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-6 w -c . 9d :- *. MIL-C-29123A ( SA) a, xm ocd El i Cu m o % 7 Provided by I

40、HSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-C-27L23A q 7779906 0387b74 B O rl I Co =l. ri I O rl A- Gr rl rl I O I O rl ri -I- - rl I k tn O rl tn tn 43 a, c, G k R O P P d O k k 8 *ri m d .ri O b o P cd k 8 a Pi O i a, m m m a, k pi a Provided by IHSNot

41、for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-C-27123A L1 779770b 0387675 T I H 4 rl 4 -Pal rB z$ 4 4 MIL-C-29123A(SA) 4 44 4 4 4 4 4 44 4 4 A- 3 rl I O O ri rl i 3 3 rl I rl I O O rl rl ? Co O rl Co r (u I ri cd c k m m O d rl rl I a I cd Ei w m m rl m m lb (u m

42、 02 lb rl O M 88 k O kkk o002 4-i E! W o 9 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-IL-C-29123A( SA) 4 4 a 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 u3 I Cu u3 I Cu 3 O rl rl I O I rl a3 rl I a, t%l I% l O P a, P a, m x a O P a, 9 5 5 8 5 4 O P a, a, rl rn a, a, bo O -

43、P -P .ri P rn a, M k O 2 g .- . Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-C-27L23A 84 m 7777706 0387677 7 m a P o L u H bo 2.5 Ei* al 4 4 44 MIL-C-29123A(SA) 4 4 4 4 44 4 4 A- 3 rl rl I I O O rl ri 33 rlrl II O0 rlrl 3 rl I O rl 3 ri I O rl

44、 rl rl m m m m C C rl I k m O rl I k m O rl ri O O M 01 rlrl O0 MM c, M rl O M W m ni rl rl 5i 13 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-1 L-c-2 go Ii R fl MIL-C-23123A 4 W 777390b 0387bO 3 W .23A(SA) 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 3 3 ri I O r

45、i c) d I ri 3 ri I I O ri al rio 3 3 3 ri I ri ri O I O I ri O ri ri ri m m (1i rl rl I cd m a m m Fr w m !- 7 rl O “E! O 8 #S M M # o M d O # om # Ln ho c .ri o cd k k O a, w a a, Pi O +, u -P .ri -P v1 a, a, k O 2 a, k PO am $2 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted w

46、ithout license from IHS-,-,-4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 o 7; ri Cu ri rl 15 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-C- flIL-C-29123A 8L( W 977“ib 0387b82 7 m )123A( SA) rl I P rn I4 .W n a“ cd a, k c, a, a cd Ga, WS 4 $4 r) 3 ln -I rl rl 16 Pro

47、vided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-flIL-C-29L23A 84 9799706 0387b83 7 MIL-6-29123A ( SA) 3.8 Sizes and measurements.- Sizes and measurements of the finished coat, including the piping, shall be in accordance with Table II (see Figure i). Al

48、l measurements are expressed in inches. Table II - Sizes and measurements for coat u A B Length Sleeve Inseam Size Bust Waist Short Regular Long Short Regular Long 6 7 8 9 10 ll 12 13 i4 15 16 18 20 22 35 27 3.12 22 i14 23 314 25 i14 3 114 3 112 35 il2 28 22 114 23 314 25 i14 3 il4 3 112 36 28 112 22 318 23 718 25 3/8 3 114 3 il2 36 1-12 29 22 318 23 718 25 318 3 i14 3 112 37 29 112 22 112 24 25 112 3 il4 3 112 37 112 30 22 1/2 24 25 112 3 il4 3 112 38 30 112 22 518 24 118 25 518 3 i14 3 112 38 314 31 114 22 518 24 il8 25 518 3 11.4 3 112 39 112 32 22 314 24