NAVY MIL-C-29107 C-1989 COAT MAN-S POLYESTER WOOL《冬季涤棉羊毛外套》.pdf

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1、MILITARY SPECIFICATION COAT, MANS, POLYESTER/WOOL This specification is approved for use by the Navy Clothing and Textile Research Facility, Department of the Navy, and is available for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense. 1, SCOPE 1.1 Scope. This specification covers th

2、e requirements for a blue double breastedss coat fabricated from polyester/wool tropical blend cloth. * 1.2 Classification. The coat shall be of one type, in the following sizes and lengths, as specified (see 6.2): 1.2.1 Sizes. 33, 34, 35, 36, 37, 38, 39, 40, 41, 42, 43, 44, 45, 46, 47 1.2.2 Lengths

3、. Extra short, short, regular, long, and extra long. 1.3 Uniform. When coat and trousers are procured as a uniform (see 6.2), the coattrousers shall be cut from the same piece of material and the shades shall match. and 48. Beneficial comments (recommendations, additions, deletions) and any pertinen

4、t data which may be of use in improving this document should be addressed to: Officer in Charge, Navy Clothing and Textile Research Facility, 21 Strathmore Road, Natick, MA 01760-2490 by using the self-addressed Standardization Document Improvement Proposal (DD Form 1426) appearing at the end of thi

5、s document or by letter. AMSC N/A FSC 8405 DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release, distribution is unlimited. THIS DOCUMENT CONTAINS 9 PAGES. Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-NIL-C-29L07C 84 M 979990b 0387355 3 MIL-C-291

6、07C(NU) 2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS 2.1 Government documents. f 2.1.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this specification to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents shall be thos

7、e listed in the issue of the Department of Defense Index of Specifications and Standards (DODISS) and supplement thereto, cited in the solicitation (see 6.2). SPECIFICATIONS FEDERAL V-B-871 V-T-2 7 6 V-T-280 V-T-285 V-T-295 V-T-301 * NN-P-71 CCC-C-438 DDD-L-20 DDD-T-86 MILITARY - Button, Sewing Hole

8、, and Button, Staple (Plastic) - Thread, Cotton - Thread, Cotton Gimp, Buttonhole - Thread, Polyester - Thread, Nylon - Thread, Silk - Pallet, Material Handling, Wood, Stringer - Cloth, Buckram, Cotton - Label; For Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage (General - Tape, Textile, Cotton, General Purpose (Un

9、bleached, Construction, 2 Way and 4 Way (Partial) Use) Bleached, or Dyed) MIL-C-368 MIL-B-371 MIL-B-3461 * MIL-P-15Oli MIL-C-15062 MIL-P-15064 MIL-C-15065 MIL-C-16375 . MIL-B- 17 75 7 MIL-C-21115 MIL-C-29137 * MIL-T-43548 * MIL-C-43718 * MIL-C-44121 - Cloth, Satin, Rayon, and Cloth, Twill, Rayon - B

10、raid, Textile (Cotton, Tubular) - Buttons, Insignia, Metal, Uniform and Cap - Pallet, Material Handling, Wood, Post Construction, - Cloth, Flannel, Wool, Undercollar Cloth - Pads, Shoulder and Sleeve-Head - Coat Fronts - Cloth, Wigan, Cotton - Boxes, Shipping, Fiberboard, (Modular Sizes) - Cloth, Tr

11、opical; Wool; Polyester/Wool - Cloth, Felt Fabric Composite, Undercollar - Thread, Polyester Core: Cotton-, Rayon-, or Polyester-Covered - Cloth, Polyester; Polyester and Cotton; Polyester and Rayon, for Pockets - Cloth, Twill, Polyester 4 Way Entry 2 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or

12、networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-STANDARDS FEDERAL * FED-STD-191 - Textile Test Methods FED-STD-751 - Stitches, Seams, and Stitchings MILITARY MIL-STD-129 MIL-STD-1490 - Provisions for Evaluating Quality of Coats, Men?s, * MIL-STD-2073-1 - DOD Materials Procedures Development and *

13、MIL-STD-2073-2 - Marking for Shipment and Storage * MIL-STD-147 - Palletized Unit Loads Dress Application of Packaging Requirements - Packaging Requirement Codes * (Unless otherwise indicated, copies of federsl and military specifications, standards, and handbooks are available from the Naval Public

14、ations and Forms Center, (ATTN: NPODS), 5801 Tabor Avenue, Philadelphia, PA 19120-5099.) * 2.1.2 Other Government documents, drawings, and publications. The following other Government documents, drawings, and publications form a Dart of this document to the extent specified herein. Unfess otherwise

15、specified, the issues are those cited in the solicitation. U.S. POSTAL SERVICE MANUAL (Copies may be obtained from the Superintendent of Documents, U.S. Government Printing Office, Washington, DC 20402-0001). * 2.2 Non-Government publications. The following document(s) form a part of this document t

16、o the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of the documents which are DOD adopted shall be those listed in the issue of the DODISS cited in the solicitation. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of documents not listed in the DODISS are the issues of the documents cited

17、in the solicitation (see 6.2). NATIONAL MOTOR FREIGHT TRAFFIC ASSOCIATION, INC., AGENT National Motor Freight Classification (Application? for copies should be addressed to the American Trucking Association, ATTN: Traffic Department, 1616 P Street, N.W., Washington, DC 20036-1404). UNIFORM CLASSIFIC

18、ATION COMMITTEE, AGENT Uniform Freight Classification (Application for copies should be addressed to the Uniform Classification Committee, Room 1106, 222 South Riverside Plaza, Chicago, Illinois 60606-5808). Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IH

19、S-,-,-MIL-C-27107C 4 W 7977706 0387357 7 W: MIL-C-29107C(NU) THE COLOR ASSOCIATION OF THE UNITED STATES Department of Defense Standard Shades for Sewing Threads Department of Defense Standard Shades for Buttons (Application for copies should be addressed to the Color Association of the United States

20、, 343 Lexington Avenue, New York, NY 10016). * (Non-Government standards and other publications are normally available from the organizations that prepare or distribute the documents. These documents also may be available in or through libraries or other informational services.) * 2.3 Order of prece

21、dence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained. 3. REQUIREMENTS 3.1 Guide Sam

22、le. Samples, when furnished, are solely for guidance and informat + on to t e contractor (see 6.3). Variations from this specification may appear in the sample in which case this specification shall govern. 3.2 First article. When specified, the contractor shall furnish sample unit(s) for first arti

23、cle inspection and approval (see 4.3 and 6.2). 3.3 Material. * 3.3.1 Basic material. The basic material for the coat shall be polyester/wool tropical cloth, 10 ounce, shade Blue 3346, conforming to type III, class 3 of MIL-C-21115. The piece number for the standard sample is 4001369. * 3.3.2 Linin .

24、 The material for lining the fronts, sleeves, left front fly, shall be rayon lining, 3.7 ounce, shade Black 3202, conforming to class 1 of MIL-C-368, piece number 79221. As an alternate, the lining material may be a polyester twill cloth, shade Black 3202, conforming to MIL-C-44121, piece number 870

25、34. sword vest -+ f ap, yoke, and for the right inside breast pocket welt and facing 3.3.3 Bindin . The material used for the binding the underarm shield shall with the edges treated with a synthetic resin to prevent raveling. Testing shall be in accordance with 4.4.1. be as specifie -+ in 3.3.2, 3/

26、4 to 7/8 inch wide, cut on a 45 (+ 5) degree angle 4 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-C-27L07C 8L( 3777906 0387358 7 3.3.4 Collar interlining. The material for the collar interlining shall be cotton, buckram, natural or bleached, c

27、onforming to type I, class 2 of CCC-C-438, except that the test for shrinkage shall be in accordance with test method 5580 of FED-STD-191 and the stiffness requirement shall not be less than 0.015 inch-pounds in the filling. 3.3.5 Undercollar cloth. The undercollar material shall be wool flannel con

28、forming to MIL-C-15062 or a felt fabric composite conforming to requirements specified in MIL-C-29137. The shade shall be black and requirements for perspiration and crocking shall not apply. When the felt fabric composite is used, the cotton buckram collar-interlining is not required. 3.3.6 Wigan.

29、The material for interlining the sleeve bottoms shall be cotton, wigan, natural shade, conforming to type I of MIL-C-16375. * 3.3.7 Pocketing. The material for the welted front pockets, cash pocket, inside breast pocket, and pocket stays shall be twill cloth conforming to class 1 of MIL-C-43718. The

30、 shade shall be black and requirements for perspiration and crocking shall not apply. * 3.3.8 Hanger loop. The hanger loop for the coat shall be cotton tubular braid conforming to type III, class 1 of MIL-B-371 or shall be of the material specified in 3.3.2. The braid shall be black and shall show g

31、ood fastness to wet-dry cleaning and shall show a crocking rating not lower than 3.0 when tested as specified in 4.4.1. 3.3.9 Coat front interlining. The coat front interlining shall conform to type VI of MIL-C-15065, except that a twill cloth conforming to class 1 of MIL-C-43718 may be used as an a

32、lternate for the shoulder piece. The interlinings shall be dyed black. 3.3.10 Shoulder and sleeve-head pads. The shoulder and pads shall conform to type I, class 1 and the sleeve-head pads shall conform to type IV of MIL-P-15064. 3.3.11 Tapes. 3.3.11.1 Woven tape. The tapes for staying the coat shal

33、l be cotton, preshrunk, conforming to types I and II and class 1 or 2 of DDD-T-86. The types and widths of the tapes shall be as follows: Type I - 5/8 inch wide stay tape for bridle at breakline of lapel and for joining front facing Type II - 3/16 inch wide stay tape for welt of pockets, back armhol

34、e, and lower part of front armhole 3.3.11.2 Cross-cut and bias-cut tapes. The stay tapes shall be cut from twill cloth, dyed or undyed, conforming to class 1 of MIL-C-43718. The raw edges of the cross-cut tape shall be treated with a synthetic resin to prevent ravelling and shall be tested in accord

35、ance with 4.4.1. The types and widths of the tapes shall be as follows: 5 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-C-29107C(NU) Cross-cut - 1/2 inch wide for back neck I Bias-cut - 3/4 inch wide for shoulder, upper part of front armhole, a

36、nd front neck gorge * 3.3.11.3 Ta e fusible As an alternate for joining the front facing the tape shall+ all other lettering shall be 1/8 inch in height. The overall size of the label shall be 3-1/2 (+ 1/8) inches by 1-1/2 (+ 1/8) inches. The label shall show colorfastness todry cleaning and the ins

37、cFiption shall be as follows: NAME : SERVICE NO: DRY CLEAN ONLY ROLL PRESS SLEEVES AND LAPELS * 3.3.16 Removable size ticket. A commercial type size ticket shall be attached on the outside of the right top sleeve 2 or 3 inches from the bottom edge. The ticket shall be tacked on four corners by machi

38、ne or hand (6 to 8 stitches per tack by machine or 2 to 4 stitches per tack by hand.) The corners may be double perforated for ease in tacking. The tickets shall be made of suitable commercial cardboard and shall be legibly printed with the following information: Size - 38 Regular (Example) The leng

39、th (Extra Short, Short, Regular, Long or Extra Long) may be abbreviated as XS, S, R, L, or XL. 8 I Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- MIL-C-29107C L( 9999906 0387362 O M MIL-C-29107C(NU) * 3.4 Design. The sack coat shall be semi-fitted,

40、 double breasted, half lined with three Navy eagle metal buttons on each front. The coat shall have semi-peaked lapels, front and side body, two-piece back, one welted outside breast pocket, two welted lower front hip pockets, cash pocket inside right hip pocket, one inside right breast pocket, and

41、a sword vent with flap in side seam of left forepart (see Figures 1 and 2). 3.4.1 Figure. The figures are furnished for information purposes only. When inconsistencies exist between the written sepcification and the figures, the written specification shall govern. * 3.5 Patterns. Standard patterns t

42、o be used to cut working patterns will be furnished by the Government (see 6.3). The working patterns shall be identical to the Government patterns. Neither the Government patterns nor the working patterns shall be altered in any way, except that additional notches for use during construction are pe

43、rmitted on the working patterns. Minor modifications are permitted where necessary when using automatic equipment. These modifications shall not alter the appearance, serviceability, or dimensional requirements cited in the specification. The patterns allow 3/8 inch for all seams, except as otherwis

44、e indicated in Table I. * 3.5.1 Pattern parts. The component parts shall be cut from the materials specified and in accordance with the following pattern parts: Ma teria1 Cloth, Tropical, Polyester/Wool Cloth, Lining Pattern Parts Front Side body Back Facing Top sleeve Under sleeve Top collar Pocket

45、 welt (hip) Pocket welt (outside breast) Pocket facing (hip) Pocket facing (outside breast) Underarm shield Sword vent flap Sword vent facing Front lining Back-Yoke lining Top sleeve lining Under sleeve lining Front fly (left side) Pocket welt and facing (right inside breast pocket) Sword vent flap

46、lining Cut parts 2 2 2 2 2 2 1 2 1 2 1 2 1 1 2 1 1/ 2 2 2 1 1 - 9 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-C-29L07C 4 799990b 03873b3 2 Material Twill cloth Pattern parts Cut parts Hip pocket (inner ply) 2 Hip pocket (outer ply) 2 Outside

47、breast pocket (inner ply) 1 Outside breast pocket (outer ply) 1 Inside breast pocket 1 Inside breast pocket stay 2 Cash pocket - - 2/ Cloth, felt fabric composite Undercollar, composite (bias) 1 3/ Cloth, wool, flannel Undercollar, flannel (bias) 2 $/ Cloth, cotton, buckram Undercollar, intetlining

48、(bias) 2 $/ - Cloth, cotton wigan Sleeve interlining (bias) 2 Templates Undercollar shaper - Lapel shaper - Finished lapel and collar shaper Undercollar stand marker - - - 1/ - 2/ - 3/ - 4/ Pattern may be cut as two pieces Pattern to be supplied by the contractor Pattern shall be cut as one piece on

49、ly Pattern may be cut as one piece 3.6 Construction. * 3.6.1 Stitches, seams, and stitching types. Stitch, seam, and stitching types as specified in Table I shall conform to the requirements of FED-STD-751. Whenever two or more methods for seam or stitch types are given for the same part of the operation, anyone of them may be used. Seam allowances shall be maintained with seam sewn so that no raw edges, runoffs, twists, pleats,