DLA MIL-C-29628 INT AMD 1-1998 COAT WOMAN-S BLUE DRESS《女式蓝色外衣》.pdf

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1、MIL-C-29628 INT AND 1 0b 2065207 406 .* MIL-(2-29628 INTERIM AMENDMENT 1 09 February 1998 MILITARY SPECIFICATION COAT, WOMANS, BLUE, DRESS This amendment forms a part of MIL-C-29628, dated 2 July 1991, and is approved for use by all departments and agencies of the Department of Defense. PAGE 1 1.2.1

2、 y Under “Sizes, Body type“, line 3, after “Misses“: Delete “No designation“ and substitute “M“ . PAGE 3 2.1.1, Under “SPECIFICATIONS“, “FEDERAL“: Delete “V-T-276“ and substitute “A-A- 52094“, delete “V-T-280“ and substitute “A-A-501 98“; delete “V-T-30 1 and substitute “A-A- 50 196“. Add the follow

3、ing document “A-A-50 199 - Thread, Polyester Core: Cotton- or Polyester Covered“. 2.1.1, Under “SPECIFICATIONS“, “MILITARY“: Delete “MIL-C- 15064 - Pads, Shoulder and Sleeve Head and delete “MIL-T-43548 - Thread Polyester Core: Cotton-, Rayon-, or Polyester- Covered“. Add the following documents: “M

4、IL-(2-15062 - Cloth, Flannel, Wool, Undercollar“ and “MIL-C-29137 - Cloth, Felt Fabric Composite, Undercollar“. 2.1.1, Under “STANDARDS“, “MILITARY“: Delete “MIL-STD-105 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes“ and delete “MIL-STD-129 - Marking for shipment and Storage“ and del

5、ete “MIL-STD-147 - Palletized Unit Loads“ and delete “MIL-STD-2073-1 - DOD Materials Procedures for Development and Application of Packaging Requirements“ and delete “MIL-STD-2073-2 - Packaging Requirement Codes“. Add the following document “MIL-STD-984 - Provisions for Size Labeling for Womens Unif

6、orm Clothing“. PAGE 4 2.2, lines 7 through 16: Delete: “NATIONAL MOTOR FREIGHT TRAFFIC ASSOCIATION, INC., AGENT National Motor Freight Classification (Application for copies should be addressed to the American Trucking Association, ATTN: Traffic Department, 1616 P Street, N.W., Washington, DC 20036-

7、1404). AMSC NIA FSC 8410 DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release; distrbuton is unlimited. 1 of 20 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- - MIL-C-29628 INT AMD L 0b 2065208 342 H INTERIM AMENDMENT 1 MIL-C-29628 UNIFORM CLASSIF

8、ICATION COMMITTEE, AGENT Uniform Freight Classification (Application for copies should be addressed to the Uniform Classification Committee, Room 1106,222 South Riverside Plaza, Chicago, Illinois 60606-5808).“ 2.2, after line 6: Add: “ANSVASCQ Z1.4- Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection of A

9、ttributes (Applications for copies should be addressed to the American National Standards Institute, 1430 Broadway, New York, NY 10018-3308.)“ PAGE 5 3.1: Delete. 3.3.3.1: Delete and substitute: 3.3.3.1 Fronts. The fusible inteiIlliing for the coat fronts sila e black or charcoal woven tw 11 or weft

10、 md knit conforming to either Type II, style B, Class 1 or Type III, Style B, Class 1 of MIL-(2-44296. The material shall have a uniformly distributed, dot-type nylon polyamide fusible adhesive evenly applied on one side in accordance with good commercial practice. Any given coat shall incorporate t

11、he same front fusible material. 3.3.3.2, line 2, after “topcollar,“: Delete “undercollar,“ and substitute “breast welt,“. PAGE 6 After paragraph 3.3.3.6: Add new paragraph: “3.3.3.7 Undercollar cloth. The undercollar material shall be a felt fabric composite conforming to requirements specified in M

12、IL-(2-29137. The shade shall be black and requirements for perspiration and crocking shall not apply.“ 3.3.4.3: Delete and substitute: “3.3.4.3 Thread. The thread for seaming and stitching the floating chest piece assembly shall be cotton mH, C.A. 66050 in accordance with the Department of Defense S

13、tandard Shades for Sewing Thread, conforming to type I, ticket no. 70,2-p1y of A-A-52094.“. PAGE 7 At top of page, before “Pocketing“: Insert paragraph number “3.3.5“. 3.3.6: Delete and substitute: . 1 . “3.3.6 Shoulder and sleeve-head pads. 2 of 20 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or ne

14、tworking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-NIL-C-29628 INT AMD II = 999990b 2065209 289 INTERIM AMENDMENT 1 MIL-C-29628 3.3.6.1 Shoulder Pad. The top and bottom covers of the shoulder pad shall be a 4 ounces per square yard polyester needlepunch felt. The bottom cover shall be approximately 1/4

15、 inch shorter than the top cover for fullness of the filler. The filler shall be a one piece cotton filler in the pad, shaped to fill out the pad with an even smooth taper from center to all edges. The use of multiple pieces for the filler is not permitted. The top cover shall have a notch for shoul

16、der seam alignment 4 (+1/4,-O) inches from the Font of the pad. The pad shall be sewn concave in a shoulder fitting form with a continuing row of basting stitches forming six equally spaced rows of stitching throughout the pad. The finished pad shall measure 4-1/2 (+1/4, -0) inches at the point of w

17、idest dimension, 8-112 to 8-3/4 inches straight across the bottom (See Figure 1A). At the vertical center of the finished pad, its thickness shall be 3/8 inches and its armhole cut out shall be 3/8 to 112 inches. 3.3.6.2 Sleeve-head. The sleeve-head shall be constructed from one layer of bias cut mu

18、slin and one layer of 2 pound wadding. The muslin shall have a minimum of 60 ends per inch in the warp and 48 yarns per inch in the filling. The finished sleeve-head shall measure 13 (+ - 114) inches long and 1-7/8 (+ - 1/8) inches wide (See Figure lB).“ 3.3.9.1, line 2: Delete “MIL-T-43548“ and sub

19、stitute type I of A-A-50199“. In Operation table, under “Ply“ column, lines 3 and 5: Delete “or 3“. PAGE 8 3.3.9.1.1, line 3: Delete “V-T-276“ and substitute “type I of A-A-52094“. Line 4: Delete “and types“. Delete all references to “Type“ in the operation table. 3.3.9.2, at the end of the first se

20、ntence: Add “The thread used for basting the sleeve hems shall be black in color.“ 3.3.9.3, line 3: Delete “V-T-301“ and substitute “A-A-50196“. 3.3.9.6, lines 3,4,6, and 7: Delete IV-T-276, V-T-295, V-T-301, and MIL-T-43548“ and substitute “A-A-50 196, A-A-50 199, A-A-52094, and V-T-295“ respective

21、ly. PAGE 9 3.3.10, line 2: Delete “V-T-280“ and substitute “A-A-50198“. 3.3.10.1, lines 3 and 5: Delete “V-T-280“ and substitute “A-A-50198“. 3.3.12.2: Delete and substitute: “3.3.12.2 Size label. Each coat shall have a separate size label conforming to type IV, class 2 of DDD-L-2-y dimensions label

22、ing requirements conforming to MIL-STD-984. The label shall indicate size, body dimensions, and stock number as shown below: SIZE CODE: 12JP (EXAMPLE) BUST CIRC: 37 1/2 (EXAMPLE) HIP CIRC: 38 (EXAMPLE) HEIGHT: Less than 63 112 (P) (EXAMPLE) STOCK NO: 841 0-00-000-0000 (EXAMPLE) NOTE: Abbreviations f

23、or the applicable body types shall be “J“ for Juniors, “W“ for Womens, and “M for Misses body type). Abbreviations for the applicable lengths shall be “P“ for Petite, “R for Regular, and “T“ for Tall.“ 3 of 20 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from

24、IHS-,-,-4 MIL-C-29628 INT AND L m 9999906 2065230 TTO m INTERIM AMENDMENT 1 MIL-C-29628 3.3.12.3: Delete and substitute: “3.3.12.3 Removable size ticket. Each coat shall have a commercial type size and body dimension ticket attached on the outside of the lower left sleeve. The ticket shall be 3 inch

25、es long and 1 inch high, made of a suitable plain white cardboard. The ticket shall be tacked on four corners by machine or hand (6 to 8 stitches per tack by machine or 2 to 4 stitches per tack by hand. As an alternate the corners can be tacked with plastic barb tack. The corners of the ticket may b

26、e double perforated for ease in tacking. The ticket shall be printed or stamped in blue or black ink and shall include information on size (including body types and lengths and body dimensions as stated in 3.3.12.2.“ After 3.3.12.3 : Add new paragraph: “3.3.12.4 Labelhag. Each item shall be individu

27、ally bar-coded with a paper tag for personal clothing items. The paper tag shall be standard bleached sulfate having a basis weight of 1 O0 pounds. The paper used for the tags shall have a smooth finish to accept thermal transfer and direct printing. The tags shall have a scanner. The bar coding ele

28、ment shall be a 13 digit national stock number (NSN. The bar code type shall be a medium to high code density and shall be located so that it is completely visible on the item when it is folded andor packaged as specified as specified and so that it causes no damage to the item.“ PAGE 10 3.4, line 2

29、: Delete “two outside breast pocket flaps“ and substitute “left outside breast welt“. Line 3: Delete “round collar ends overlapping half-peaked lapels“ and substitute “lapels with notched collar“. At end of paragraph: Add “The bottom of the sleeves shall be unfinished but basted in place.“ 3.5.1 : D

30、elete and substitute: 3.5.1 Pattern parts. The component parts shall be cut fi-om the materials as specified, and in accordance with the following pattern parts list: Material Cloth, tropical Pattern Name Abbreviation TOPCOLLAR B-WELT- A B-WELT-B B-WELT-C B-WELT-D B-WELT-E FRONT-MSR SFRNT-MS-R SBACK

31、-MSR B ACK-MS-R FRONT-JR -R SFRNT-JR R SBACK-JR R B ACK-JR-R 4 01 Pattern Piece Nomenclature Topcollar Breast Welt - Sizes 4-8 Breast Welt - Sizes 10-12 Breast Welt - Sizes 14-16 Breast Welt - Sizes 18-20 Breast Welt - Sizes 22-28 Front Side Front Side Back Back Front Side Front Side Back Back O - c

32、ut No. 1 1 1 1 1 1 2 2 2 1 2 2 2 1 - Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-IIL-C-27b28 INT AND L 9799906 20b52LL 937 INTERIM AMENDMENT 1 MIL-C-29628 4 of 21 Material Zloth, tropical Cloth, felt Cloth, fusible (small ar Pattern Name Abbrevia

33、tion FRONT-WO-R SFFWT-WO-R SBACK-WO-R BACK-WO-R FRONT-MS-P SFRNT-MSP SB ACK-MS-P BACK MS-P SFRNT-JR -P SBACK-JR -P BACK-JR-P FRONT-WO-P SFRNT-WO-P SBACK-WO-P BACK-WOP FRONT-MS-T SFRNT-M S-T SB ACK-MS-T BACK-MS-T FRONT-WO-T SFRNT WO-T BACK-WO-T FRONT-JR -T SFRNT-JR -T SBACK-JR -T BACK-JR-T FRT-FAC-R

34、TOPSLV-R UNDSLVR FRT-FAC-T TOPSLV-T UNDSLV-T FRT-FAC-P TOPSLV-P UNDSLVP UNDCLRCOMP TOPCLRTNT TOPSLV INT LFACINT R FRONTJR P SBAC?combinatin label-with top edge of size label?. Operation loi, line 2 after ?5?: Add ?e 3/8)?. PAGE 20 Table I, operation 13c, line 5: Delete ?trimmed along the shoulder? a

35、nd substitute ?placed?. Table I, operation 16a: Delete ?NOTE in its entirety and substitute: ?NOTE: As a .guide, lapel shaper shall be placed with top of breakline at neckline notch and top buttonhole notch matching top buttonhole mark on fiont.? PAGE 21 Table I, operation lb, line 8: Delete II 1/4?

36、 and substitute ?3/16.? Table I, operation 17e, line 6, after ?template?: Add ?tolerance 2 1/16 inch. PAGE 23 Table I, after Operation 19f Add the following: ?NOTE: As an alternate, Operations 19c and 19f may be completed by machine before basting hing into the coat (Operations 19a, 19b, 19d, and 19

37、e).? Table I, ?Operation 21 Make coilar.?: Delete and substitute. 9 of20 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- MIL-C-29b2 INT AND II 77777Ob 20b52IIb 419 c. Position neck edge of undercollar stand marker even with neck edge of undercollar

38、and stitch breakline. d. Overlap undercollar raw edge 3/8 inch over right side of top-collar. Baste outeredge of undercollar, distributing fullness of topcollar on outer edge of undercollar. e. Stitch collar assembly next to outer raw edge of undercollar, making sure stitches do not extend onto INTE

39、RIM AMENDMENT 1 MIL-C-29628 304 Hand or Machine - topcollar material. Note: Operation 21e. shall be omitted when outeredge of collar is machine felled. f. Turn face sides together and baste edge of Comrcl topcollar. Putting inproper fullness at nds of topcollar, stitch sides of topcollar to undercol

40、lar, 1 /4 inch from raw edge. Trim excess topcollar at corners and ends. Turn face side out. g. Baste the topcollar to undercollar along breakline and outer edge putting in proper fullness. Finished collarstand at center shall measure 1-1/8 US) inches. h. Press and crease the stand of the topcollar

41、and the undercollar together in one operation to shape holding the crease line short. Center area of crease line shall be straight for a distance of 3 to 4 inches. i. Trim neck edge of topcollar leaving a 3/8 inch seam allowance on gorge, gradually working to 3/8 inches at center back. j. Remove bas

42、ting of breakline. k. Flat press assembled collar.“ “a. Seam topcollar to front facing and back lining with 3/8 inch seam allowance. Notch seam allowance of gorge no less than 1 inch behind breakline, and trim down to 1/4 inch seam allowance. b. With hanger loop ends even with the neck with the neck

43、 edge, center hanger loop at back neck and stitch ends. c. Finished hanger loop shall measure 1-112 8 1/4) inches between inner edges. When constructed of lining fabric, the loop shall finish approximately 1/4 inch wide. d. Spread gorge seam open and tack to the chest piece assembly. Silk 301 SSa-1

44、301 301 EFp-2 Hand or 301 SSa-1 Comrcl Machine I I PAGE 25 10-14 10-14 10 6-8 10-14 50 50 50 50 50-50 50 50 50 or Comrcl 10 of 20 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-C-29628 INT AHD I 9999906 206.5217 355 9 INTERIM AMENDMENT 1 MIL-C-2

45、9628 e. Stitch neckline of coat to seam allowance of topcollar assembly 1/4 inch fi-om raw edge. putting in proper fullness at shoulders NOTE: Finished ends of collar shall abut with tops of lapel. There shall be no gap at lapel notch (See Figure 1). Check width of collar lapel notch against finishe

46、d collar and finished lapel template pattern, with a tolerance of + 1/16 inch.“ f. Baste undercollar to body of coat along neckline Hand or Mach Comrcl PAGE 26 “c. With face sides together, stitch buckram seam. d. Press buckram seam open and flat. and baste along folded edge. e. Turn sleeve bottom a

47、s indicated by pattern marks 301 SSa-1 10-14 50 70 Hand Osf-1 Comrcl or I Mach I f. Soft press bottom of sleeve and remove basting.“ “OR 1. As an alternate, when using a sleeve lining using a sleeve lining felling machine (see 6.10), join backarm seam and forearm seam of sleeve lining. The distance

48、between the notches on the forearm shall be left open. 2. Position the sleeve lining top notches to the top of forearm sleeve seam and top of the backarm sleeve hem. Tack forearm seam and backarm seam of the sleeve lining to the forearm seam and backarm seam, respectively. The backarm seam tacking s

49、hall extend fiom approximately the midpoint of the backarm seam to not more than 7 inches above creased bottom edge. The forearm seam tacking shall be for a distance of 1-1/2 to 2 inches below the bottom left open forearm seam notch.“ PAGE 27 301 SSa-1 or 401 SSa-1 Hand or 301 4-8 Table I, Operation 25b: Delete and substitute: 50 50 “b. Press seam flat, shrinking fullness around sleeve head using a suitable shape