DLA A-A-59826 E-2009 THREAD NYLON.pdf

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1、INCH-POUND A-A-59826 03 March 2009 SUPERSEDING V-T-295E 1 August 1985 COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTION THREAD, NYLON The General Services Administration has authorized the use of this commercial item description as a replacement for V-T-295 for all federal agencies. 1. SCOPE. This commercial item descrip

2、tion covers nylon thread used for machine and hand-sewing. 2. CLASSIFICATION. The thread shall be of the following Types and Classes. In end item documents where neither Class designation “A“ or “B“ is indicated, the requirements for Class “A“ shall apply. 2.1 Type. Type I - Twisted multiple cord, u

3、nbonded, soft finish Type II - Twisted multiple cord, bonded finish Type III - Monocord, bonded finish Type IV - Hand-sewing twist, waxed finish Type V - Buttonhole twist, hand-sewing (waxed) Type VI - Tailoring, twisted multiple cord, soft finish Type VII - Quilting thread, coreless cocoon bobbins

4、and top thread, twisted multiple cord, soft finish 2.2 Class. Class A - General purpose Class B - Non-wicking (Type I or II) 3. SALIENT CHARACTERISTICS. The thread shall be bright, high tenacity continuous multifilament nylon. The nylon shall be a polyamide prepared from hexamethylene diamine and ad

5、ipic acid or its derivatives. The thread shall have a melting point of not less than 472F and conform to the applicable requirements specified in Tables I through X. Types II and III threads shall be bonded with a colorless nylon polymer agent. Comments, suggestions, or questions on this document sh

6、ould be addressed to: Defense Supply Center Philadelphia, Clothing and Textiles Directorate, Attn: DSCP Standardization Team, 700 Robbins Avenue, Philadelphia, PA 19111-5096. Since contact information can change, you may want to verify the currency of the address information using Acquisition Stream

7、lining and Standardization Information System (ASSIST) online database at http:/assist.daps.dla.mil. AMSC N/A FSC 8310Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-A-A-59826 3.1 Twist direction. Unless otherwise specified, the direction of the fina

8、l twist shall be “Z“ except that number sizes of Types I, II and VII threads when used for sole stitching of footwear, or coreless bobbins and top threads for quilting may be “S“ or “Z”. The final twist of Type IV shall be “S”. 3.2 Physical characteristics. The finished thread shall conform to the a

9、pplicable requirements for the specified Type, Tex no. (*Approximate size. True Tex size is measurement of gram weight of 1000 meters of finished thread), within the stated approximate ranges below and Government size (letter or number) set forth in Tables I through Table VII when tested as specifie

10、d in Table VIII. 3.2.1 Type I thread. The Type I thread shall be unbonded, plied thread with each individual yarn having an initial twist in the opposite direction to the final twist, and the initial twist shall meet or exceed the final twist per inch “TPI” and shall conform the physical characteris

11、tics specified in Table I when tested as specified in Table VIII. TABLE I. Physical characteristics of Type I (Twisted multiple cord, soft finish), Tex No. (g/km) Government Letter size Ply Final twist TPI (min.)Length per pound (yards) min. max. Breaking strength, lbs. (min.) Elongation,% (max.) 16

12、-17 00 2 12.0 25,801 31,000 1.8 26 21-23 A 3 10.0 18,001 25,800 2.8 26 30-32 AA 2 or 3 9.0 13,001 18,000 4.1 26 45-46 B 2 or 3 7.0 8,701 13,000 6.0 26 68-70 E 3 6.0 5,801 8,700 9.0 26 90-101 F 3 or 4 5.5 4,001 5,800 11.8 26 135-144 FF 3 5.0 2,901 4,000 17.5 35 GovernmentNumber size 205-210 3 3 4.5 1

13、,951 2,900 27.0 35 270-292 4 3 4.0 1,451 1,950 36.0 35 350-381 5 3 3.5 1,151 1,450 45.0 35 400-472 6 3 3.0 951 1,150 54.0 35 600-601 8 3 2.5 701 950 72.0 35 3.2.2 Type II thread. The Type II thread shall be a bonded, plied thread with each individual yarn having an initial twist in the opposite dire

14、ction to the final twist, and the initial twist shall meet or exceed the final “TPI” and shall conform the physical characteristics specified in Table II when tested as specified in Table VIII. 2Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-A-A-598

15、26 TABLE II. Physical characteristics of Type II (Twisted multiple cord, bonded finish) Tex No., (g/km) Government Letter size Ply Final twist TPI (min.) Length per pound (yards) min. max. Breaking strength, lbs. (min.) Elongation, % (max.) 16-19 00 2 12.0 23,201 29,000 1.8 26 21-25 A 3 10.0 16,201

16、23,200 2.8 26 30-36 AA 2 or 3 9.0 11,701 16,200 4.1 26 45-51 B 2 or 3 7.0 7,801 11,700 6.0 26 70-76 E 3 6.0 5,201 7,800 9.0 26 90-112 F 3 or 4 5.5 3,601 5,200 11.8 26 135-160 FF 3 5.0 2,601 3,600 17.5 35 210-268 3 3 4.5 1,751 2,600 27.0 35 270-325 4 3 4.0 1,301 1,750 36.0 35 350-426 5 3 3.5 1,051 1,

17、300 45.0 35 400-526 6 3 3.0 851 1,050 54.0 35 600-684 8 3 2.5 600 850 72.0 35 3.2.3 Type III thread. The Type III thread shall be a single ply construction, consisting of a minimum of 17 filaments bonded together to form a smooth even monochord and the twist shall be no more than 4 “TPI” and shall c

18、onform the physical characteristics specified in Table III when tested as specified in Table VIII. TABLE III. Physical characteristics of Type III - (Monocord, bonded finish) Tex No., (g/km) Government Letter size Ply Length per pound (yards)min. max Breaking strength, lbs. (min.) Elongation, % (max

19、.) 16-20 00 1 23,901 27,000 1.8 35 21-25 A 1 16,351 23,900 2.8 35 27-34 AA 1 13,301 16,350 4.1 35 45-47 B 1 8,001 13,300 6.0 35 70-75 E 1 5,201 8,000 9.0 35 90-110 F 1 3,851 5,200 11.8 35 135-154 FF 1 2,151 3,850 17.5 35 Government Number size 150-258 3 1 1,701 2,150 27.0 35 270-331 4 1 1,301 1,700

20、36.0 35 350-431 5 1 1,001 1,300 45.0 35 400-536 6 1 851 1,000 54.0 35 600-684 8 1 600 850 72.0 35 3Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-A-A-59826 3.2.4 Type IV thread. The Type IV thread shall be twisted, two-cord (ply) construction, unbon

21、ded with a wax finish. Each of the individual yarns shall have an initial twist which meets or exceeds the final “TPI”. The final twist shall be “s“ and the thread shall be suitable for simulated hand-sewing and shall conform the physical characteristics specified in Table IV when tested as specifie

22、d in Table VIII. TABLE IV. Physical characteristics of Type IV - (Hand sewing twist, wax finish) Tex No., (g/km) Government Letter size Ply Length per pound (yards)min. max Breaking strength, lbs. (min.) Elongation, % (max.) 35-36 A 2 13,001 14,600 3.5 35 45 C 2 8,901 13,000 5.7 35 3.2.5 Type V thre

23、ad. The Type V thread shall be of a twisted, three-cord (ply) construction, unbonded with a wax finish. Each individual ply shall have an initial twist in the opposite direction to the final twist, and the initial twist shall meet or exceed the final “TPI”. The final plied twist shall be suitable fo

24、r hand sewing and shall conform the physical characteristics specified in Table V when tested as specified in Table VIII. Table V. Physical characteristics of Type V-(Buttonhole twist, hand sewing, waxed) Tex No., (g/km) Government Number size Ply Length per pound (yards)min. max. Breaking strength,

25、 lbs. (min.) Elongation, % (max.) 180-191 6 3 2,321 2,920 20.0 35 150-160 8 3 2,921 3,310 16.0 35 132-135 10 3 3,311 4,180 14.0 35 3.2.6 Type VI thread. The Type VI thread shall be multiple cord (ply) construction, soft finish. Each of the individual plies shall have an initial twist in the opposite

26、 direction to the final twist, and the initial twist shall meet or exceed the final “TPI”. The final plied twist shall be suitable for machine sewing and shall conform the physical characteristics specified in Table VI when tested as specified in Table VIII. TABLE VI. Physical characteristics of Typ

27、e VI- (Tailoring, twisted multiple cord, soft finish) Tex No., (g/km) Government Letter size Ply Length per pound (yards)min. max. Breaking strength, lbs. (min.) Elongation, % (max.) 24 0 2 or 3 16,000 25,000 2.8 35 40 B 2 or 3 11,001 14,000 4.1 35 90-97 F 3 4,201 6,000 11.0 35 4Provided by IHSNot f

28、or ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-A-A-59826 3.2.7 Type VII thread. The Type VII thread shall be multiple cord (ply) construction. Each of the individual plies shall have an initial twist in the opposite direction to the final twist, and the initial twist s

29、hall meet or exceed the final “TPI”. The final plied twist shall be suitable for multi-needle quilting machines and shall conform the physical characteristics specified in Table VII when tested as specified in Table VIII. TABLE VII. Physical characteristics of Type VII- (Quilting thread, coreless co

30、coon bobbins and top thread, twisted multiple cord, soft finish) Tex No., (g/km) Government Letter size Ply Final twist TPI (min.) Length per pound (yards) min. max. Breaking strength, lbs. (min.) Elongation,% (max.) 18 00 2 12.0 24,781 33,040 1.8 33 24-27 A 3 10.0 16,521 24,780 2.8 33 35 AA 3 9.0 1

31、2,391 16,520 4.1 33 50 B 2 7.0 8,851 12,390 6.0 33 3.3 End item examination. The threads for all Types shall conform to the physical characteristics specified in Tables I, II, III, IV, V, VI, and VII, when tested in accordance with the test methods listed in Table VIII. TABLE VIII. Physical characte

32、ristics and end item tests Characteristic Requirement Paragraph, Reference & RatingsTest method Fiber identification Nylon Paragraph - 3.0 ASTM D 276 or AATCC-20, 1/ Melting point 472F (min) Paragraph - 3.0 ASTM D 276 or AATCC-20, 1/ Bright, continuous multifilament Paragraph -3.0 Visual Direction o

33、f twist-(Initial and final) Paragraph -3.1 ASTM D 204 Tex Size Paragraph -3.2 ASTM D 3823 Twist (TPI) Individual and final Paragraph -3.2 ASTM D 204 Number of plies Paragraph -3.2 Visual Length per pound Paragraph -3.2 ASTM D 1907 Breaking strength Paragraph -3.2 ASTM D 204, 2/ Elongation Paragraph

34、-3.2 ASTM D 204, 2/ Colorfastness (as applicable) Paragraph -3.5 ASTM D 204 Laundering (after 3 cycles) 3-4 AATCC 61, Procedure 1A, 2, 3/ 4/ 5/ Light (after 40 hrs. or 170kJ) 3-4 AATCC-16 Opt 3, 6/ Wet dry-cleaning 3-4 AATCC 132 5/ Perspiration 3-4 AATCC-15, 5/ Weathering (after 80 hrs. or 340kJ) 3-

35、4 AATCC-169 Opt 1, 6/ 1/ In case of dispute, the ASTM method prevails 2/ Except that five determinations shall be made per sample unit. 5Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-A-A-59826 3/ The specimens shall be dried after each of the 3 lau

36、ndering cycles. 4/ The color transfer cloth evaluation shall not apply. No appreciable change in shade or loss of color of the tested specimen shall be visible when compared to the untested thread retained. 5/ Rated using the AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1, Gray Scale for Color Change and Procedure 2,

37、 Gray Scale for Staining. 6/ Rated using the AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1, Gray Scale for Color 3.4 Knots. Thread size FF for all Tex sizes, and finer shall average not more than one thread knot per 2 ounces, and thread size 3 for all Tex sizes and heavier shall average not more than one thread-knot

38、 per 4 ounces. The thread shall average not more than one full thread knot or splice per 1,000 yards. 3.5 Color. The color shall be as specified in the applicable end item specification or in the contract or purchase order. The dyed thread shall conform to the applicable approved shade standard. Col

39、orfastness requirements for the thread are to be specified in keeping with requirements for the basic material and end items using industry guidelines (see 7.7) and in accordance with the colorfastness requirements specified in Table VIII. 3.6 Finish removal procedure. Before evaluation for shade ma

40、tching and testing for colorfastness, except for colorfastness to wet dry cleaning, the thread shall be wet dry cleaned in accordance with AATCC-132. Excess solvent shall be removed by centrifuging or wringing. The sample shall then be rinsed in distilled water at 120F to 160F and dried at a tempera

41、ture not exceeding 180F. The dried sample shall then be conditioned for a minimum of 4 hours prior to evaluation for shade matching or colorfastness. 3.7 Visual shade matching. The color and appearance of the finished thread, after removal of finish (see 3.6), shall match the standard sample when vi

42、ewed using AATCC Evaluation Procedure 9, Option A, with sources simulating artificial daylight D75 illuminant with a color temperature of 7500 + 200K, with illumination of 100 + 20 foot candles, and shall be a good match to the standard sample under incandescent lamplight at 2856 + 200 K. 3.8 Finish

43、ing materials. The finished thread shall have no chemical finishes or treatments other than those commonly used, i.e. water-repellent, etc, on commercial threads which have been demonstrated to have no deleterious effects on the fiber, including effects of prolonged storage. No finish or treatment s

44、hall be applied for the purpose of increasing breaking strength. There shall be no noticeable wicking of the treatment on the thread to adjacent material when sewn. Appropriate finishes shall be applied for bonding (Types II and III), and waxing (Types IV and V). Types IV and V thread shall be waxed

45、 so that the thread shall have a smooth, dressed surface suitable for hand-sewing. Class B thread shall have an approved (see 7.5.1.1) non-wicking finish (see 3.8.1). 3.8.1 Non-wicking (Class B). The finished treated thread for Class B shall be tested for water repellency in accordance with the vert

46、ical rise non-wicking procedure in either initial state or accelerated laundered per end-item requirements. The Class B thread shall resist the wicking of water for a period of not less than 6 hours when tested as specified in 3.8.1.1. For end-items requiring accelerated laundering resistance, threa

47、d shall resist wicking of water for a period of not less than 6 hours after 3 Launder-Ometer laundering cycles as specified in 3.8.1.2. The use of compounds containing mercury in any form is prohibited. 6Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-

48、,-A-A-59826 3.8.1.1 Initial Non-wicking thread procedure. The test specimen shall consist of twenty-strand skein of thread in one continuous 30-yard (27.4m) length made on a 54-inch (1.37m) periphery skein reel or other suitable device for preparing the specimen. The skein shall be reeled under enough tension to cause the strands in the skein to lie uniformly, side by side, on the reel. The finishing end of the skein shall be tied to the starting end of the skein in such a manner that the kn