NAVY MIL-C-21851 E-1988 CLOTH TWILL POLYESTER AND COTTON《涤棉斜织布》.pdf

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1、flIL-C-ZL53E 3 777770b 0383343 = - g-37-07 MIL-C-21851E 4 May 1988 SUPERSEDING 9 November 1984 MIL-C-21851D MILITARY SPECIFICATION CLOTH, TWILL, POLYESTER AND COTTON This specification is approved for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense. 1. SCOPE 1.1 Scope. This specific

2、ation covers the requirements for a cotton and 2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS 2.1 Government documents. polyester fabric of one type only. 2.1.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this specification to the extent specified herein.

3、 Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents shall be those listed in the issue of the Department of Defense Index of Specifications and Standards (DODISS) and supplement thereto, cited in the solicitation. SPECIFICATIONS FEDERAL PPP-P-1134 STANDARDS FEDERAL FED-STD-4 FED-STD-191 - Pac

4、kaging of Cotton and Cotton-Synthetic Fiber Blend Fabrics (Excluding Duck Fabrics) - Glossary of Fabric Imperfections - Textile Test Methods P Beneficial comments (recommendations, additions, deletions) and any pertinent data which may be of use in improving this document should be addressed to: Off

5、icer in Charge, Navy Clothing and Textile Research Facility, 21 Strathmore Road, Natick, MA 01760 by using the self-addressed Standardization Document Improvement Proposal (DD Form 1426) appearing at the end of this document or by letter. - AMSC N/A FSC 8305 * DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. unlimited. Ap

6、proved or public release, distribution is / THIS DOCUMENT CONTAINS 10 PAGES; - Licensed by Information Handling ServicesMIL-C-21853E 83 777770b 0383342 T m, -. MIL-C-21851E MILITARY MIL-STD-105 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by (Copies of specifications, standards, drawings, and pub

7、lications required by contractors in connection with specific procurement functions should be obtained from the procuring activity or as directed by the contracting officer, ) * 2.1.2 Other Government documents, drawings, and publications. The following other Government documents, drawings, and publ

8、ications form a part of this specification to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues shall be those in effect on the date of the solicitation. Attributes LAWS AND REGULATIONS Rules and Regulations Under the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act (Application for copie

9、s should be addressed to the Federal Trade Commission, Washington, D.C. 20580-0001.) * 2.2 Other publications. The following document(s) form a part of this specification to the extent specified herein, Unless otherwise specified, the issues of the documents which are DOD adopted shall be those list

10、ed in the issue of the DODISS specified in the solicitation. Unless otherwise specified., the issues of documents not listed in the DODISS shall be the issue of the nongovernment documents which. is current on the date of the solicitation. TECHNICAL MANUAL OF THE AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEM

11、ISTS AND COLORISTS Method No. 8-1985 Colorfastness to Crocking: AATCC Crockmeter Method (Application for copies should be addressed to the AATCC National Headquarters, P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709-2215.) * 2.3 Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of th

12、is specification and the references cited herein, the text .of this specification shall take precedence, Nothing in this specification, however, shall supersede applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained. 3, REQUIREMENTS 3.1 Standard sample. The finished cloth shal

13、l match the standard sample for shade, and -shall be equal to or better than the standard sample with respect to all characteristics for which the standard sample is referenced (see 6,3). 3.2 First article. When specified (see 6.2), the contractor shall furnish sample unit(s) for first article inspe

14、ction and approval (see 4,3). 3.3 Material. 2 c 1 Licensed by Information Handling Services_ MIL-C-21851E 83 m 7797706 0383143 1 m MIL-C-21851E 3.3.1 Fibers? 3.3.1.1 Polyester fibers. The fiber shall - be polyethylene glycol terephthalate (see 4.4.1). 3.3.1.2 Cotton fibers. The cotton shall be carde

15、d and combed (see 4.4.1). 3.3.2 Yarns. The yarns shall be a blend of polyester and cotton drawn and evenly spxnto singles yarn for both warp and the filling when tested as specified in 4.5. The finished cloth shall contain 65 percent, plus or minus 5 percent polyester fiber and not less than 30 perc

16、ent cotton based on the dry weight of the desized specimens when tested as specified in 4.5. 3.3.3 Fiber content. 3.4 Physical requirements. The finished cloth shall conform to the requirements as shown in Table I when tested as specified in 4.5. TABLE I. Physicalrequirements . Maximum Characteristi

17、cs . Mi nimum Weight, oz/sq yd (g/sq m) 5.0 (169) 6.0 (203) Yarns per inch (2.54 cm) Warp 125 (125) Filling. 54 (54) 165 (734.3) 65 (289.3) Breaking strength, lbs ,(N) Warp Filling PH 5.5 8.5 3.4.1 Weave. * 3.4.2 Width. The width of the finished cloth shall be as specified (see 6.2) and shallbe the

18、minimum acceptable width, inclusive of selvages when fly shuttle looms or shuttleless with tuck-in selvage looms are used, For all other shuttleless looms the width- measurement shall be made between the last warp yarn on each side excluding the protruding fringe. The weave shall be a 2 up, 1 down,

19、right or left hand twill. - 3.5 Color. The color shall be as specified (see 6.2). 3.5.1 Sulfur content. The use of sulfur dyes or dyes containing elementary sulfur or sulfur compounds capable of oxidation to- sulfuric acid is prohibited. The finished cloth shall contain no more labile sulfur than sh

20、own by the standard sample when tested as specified in 4.5. When a standard sample is not available, the dyed cloth shall show no more-than a slight trace of labile sulfur as defined in the test method specified in 4.5. -. 3 Licensed by Information Handling ServicesMIL-C-21851E * 3.5.2 Matchin . The

21、 finished cloth shall match the standard sample when having a correlated color temperature of 7500 + 200 K, with illumination of 100 + 20 foot candles, and shall be a good match to the standard sample under incandescent lamplight at 2300 - + 200 K. viewed un d er i tered tungsten lamps which approxi

22、mate artificial daylight * 3.5 light when .3 Colorfastness. The finished cloth shall show fastness to laundering, , crocking and perspiration equal to or better than the standard sample tested as specified in 4.5. As a limit of acceptability or when no standard sample is available, the finished clot

23、h shall show a minimum of llgoodlt fastness to laundering, light, and perspiration and shall have an AATCC reaing not lower than 3.0 for dry crocking and an AATCC reading not lower than 2.0 for wet crocking. 3.6 Nonfibrous materials. The nonfibrous material of the finished cloth shall not exceed 6.0

24、 percent starch I and protein content including acid hydrolyzable material when tested as specified in 4.5. 3.7 Length and put up. Unless otherwise specified (see 6.2 and 5.1*1), the cloth shall b e in continuous pieces each not less than 40 yards (36.6111) in length and shall be put up in rolls, fu

25、ll width, as specified in PPP-P-1134. 3.8 Fiber identificatien. Each roll o cloth shall be labeled or ticketed for fiber content in accordance with the Rules and Regulations of the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act. 3.9 Dimensional stability. The finished cloth shall not shrink nor elongate

26、more than 2.0 percent in either- the warp or the filling when tested as specified in 4.5. The pre-shrinking process used shall not be identified by name or by trademark, either on the cloth, ticket or package, 3.10 Finish. The cloth shall be singed, desized, scoured, dyed, heat set and treawith an a

27、pproved resin to provide a crease-resistant finish and hand equal in characteristic to that of the standard sample (see 6.7). Testing shall be in accordance with 4.5. 3.11 Face identification, The face side of the cloth shall be identified by applying a stamping on that side of the cloth with the wo

28、rd tlFacelt at each end of the roll. 3.12 Workmanshi , The finished cloth shall conform to the quality establishe d y t is document. The occurrence of defects shall not exceed the applicable point level specified, 4. QUALITY ASSURANCE PROVISIONS 4 Licensed by Information Handling Services MIL-C-2185

29、LE 83 7999706 03831LI5 5 W L 1 MIL-C-21851E 4.1 Responsibility for inspection. Unless otherwise specified in the ;le for the performance of all inspection requirements as specified herein. Except . as otherwise specified in the contract or order, the contractor may use his own or any other facilitie

30、s , suitable for performance of the inspection requirements specified herein, unless disapproved by the Government. The Government reserves the right to . perform any of the inspections set forth in the specification where such inspections are deemed necessary to assure supplies and services conform

31、 to prescribed requirements. * 4.1.1 Responsibility for compliance. All items must meet all requirements of sections 3 and 5, The inspection set forth in this specification shall become a part of the contractors overall inspection system or quality program. The absence of any inspection requirements

32、 in the specification shall not relieve the contractor of the responsibility of assuring that all products or supplies submitted to the Government for acceptance comply with all requirements of the contract. Sampling in quality conformance does not . authorize submission of known defective material,

33、 either indicated or actual, nor does it commit the Government to acceptance of defective material. - 4.1.2 Certificate of compliance. Where certificates of compliance are submitted, the Government reserves the right to check test such items to determine the validity of the certification. - _._ here

34、in are classified as folliws: -I 4.2 Classification of inmection. The inspection requirements-specified 1. First article-3.nspection (see 4.3). -I 2. Quality conformane inspection (see 4.4). 4.3 First article inspection. When required (see 3.2 and 6.2), the first - article shall be visually examined

35、 for appearance, color and finish, and shall be tested- for physical and chemical properties in accordance w5th methods - specified in 4.5. 4.4 Quality conformance inspection. Sampling for inspection shall be performed in accordance with MIL-STD-105, except where otherwise indicated. 4.4.1 Component

36、 and material inspection. In accordance- with 4.1 above, components and materials shall b tested in accordance with all the requirements of referenced specifications, drawings, and standards unless otherwise excluded, amended, modified, or qualified in this specification or applicable procurement do

37、cuments. In addition, -the contractor shall furnish a certificate of compliance for the fiber requirements of 3.3.1.1 and 3.3.1.2. 4.4.2 Examination of the end item. Examination of the end item shall be in 4 accordance with 4.4.2.1 through 4.4.2.4. - 3 -3 _ 5 Licensed by Information Handling Service

38、s- MIL-C-23853E 3 7777706 O383346 7 - - MIL-C-21851E 4.4.2.1 Yard-by-yard examination. Each roll in the sample shall be examined on face side only. When the total yardage in the roll does not exceed 100 yards, (91.4111) the entire yardage in the roll shall be examined. When the total yardage in the

39、roll exceeds 100 yards (91,4m), only 100 yards (91.4111) shall be examined. All defects as defined in Section 1 of PED-STD-4, which are clearly visible at normal inspection distance (3 feet) (0.9m) shall be scored and assigned demerit points as listed in 4.4.2.1.1, except that only those slubs and k

40、nots which exceed the limits shown on Sears Fabric Defect Scale (see 6.4), IDt1 or I3 1/2I for slubs and “C1 or knots, shall be scored. No linear yard (increments of 1 yard .(0.9m) on the measuring device of the inspection machine) from any one roll within the sample shall be penalized more than 4 p

41、oints. The sample size shall be 20 rolls selected from 20 contaigers. The lot shall be unacceptable if the points per 100 square yards (83.6111 ) of the total yardage examined exceeds 30.0 points$ The lot shall be unacceptable if the point per 100 square yards (83.6111 ) of two or more individual. r

42、olls exceed 45.0 points. If one roll exceeds the point level, a second sample of 20 rolls shall be examined only for individual roll quality examination. If one or more rolls in the second sample of 20 exceeds the individual point value, the lot shall be rejected. Point computation for lot quality a

43、nd individual roll quality shall be as follows: Total points scored in sample size X 3600 = Points per 190 sq Contracted width of cloth *(inches) X Total yards inspected yards (83,6111 ) 4.4.2.1.1 Demerit points. Demerit points shall be assigned as follows: - one point For defects up to and includin

44、g 3 inches (7.62cm) in any d imens i on For defects exceeding 3 inches (7.62cm) but not exceeding 6 inches (15,24cm) in any dimension - two points For defects exceeding 6 inches (15.24cm) but not exceeding 9 inches (22.86cm) in any dimension - three points For defects exceeding 9 inches (22.86111) i

45、n any dimension - four points NOTE: The following defects, when present, shall be scored 4 points for each yard (0.91m) in which they occur: Baggy, ridgy or wavy cloth Width less than specified Non-uniformity of shade (poor dye penetration, mottled, streaky or Excessive neppiness (coudy) 4.4.2,2 Exa

46、mination for length. 4.4.2.2.1 Individual rolls. During the yard-by-yard examinations, each roll in the sample shall be examined for length. Any length found to be less than the minimum specified, or more than two yards (1,8rn) less than the length marked on the ticket shall be considered a defect w

47、ith respect.to length. The lot shall be unacceptable if two or more rolls in the sample are defective in respect to length. 6 Licensed by Information Handling ServicesMIL-C-ZL5LE 3 W 7777706 0383LLI7 7 MIL-C-21851E 4.4.2.2.2 Total yardage in sample. The lot shall be unacceptable if the total of the

48、actual lengths of rolls in the sample is less than the total of the lengths marked on the ticket. The rolls examined shall be those selected for the-examination of individual rolls. 4.4.2.3 Examination for shade variation, During the yard-by-yard examination, each roll in the sample shall be examine

49、d for shade. Any roll in the sample off-shade, shaded side to side, side to center or end to end shall be cause for rejection of the entire lot represented by the sample. 4.4.2.4 Examination for face identification, identification of pre-shrinking process and non-conformance with the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act. During the yard-by-yard examination, each roll in the samDle shall be examined for these defects-. - The lot shall be unacceptable if two-or more rolls in the sample have face identification pissing from eith