ASTM F1773-2009(2015) Standard Terminology Relating to Climbing Mountaineering Search and Rescue Equipment and Practices《有关攀爬 登山 搜索以及救援设备和做法的标准术语》.pdf

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1、Designation: F1773 09 (Reapproved 2015)Standard Terminology Relating toClimbing, Mountaineering, Search and Rescue Equipmentand Practices1This standard is issued under the fixed designation F1773; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year oforiginal adoption or, in the case

2、 of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. Asuperscript epsilon () indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.1. Scope*1.1 This terminology document is a compilation of defini-tions of terms, abbreviations, and acr

3、onyms that are unique toclimbing, mountaineering, search and rescue collected in orderto provide consistency in communication when used in actualoperations, training, literature, and the statistical basis forrating a products performance dealing with this field.2. Referenced Documents2.1 ASTM Standa

4、rds:2E456 Terminology Relating to Quality and StatisticsE1150 Definitions of Terms Relating to Fatigue (Withdrawn1996)33. Terminology3.1 Definitions of General Climbing and MountaineeringTerms:3.1.1 access, nthe process of reaching the patients orsubjects and establishing physical contact with them.

5、3.1.2 aid climbing, na technique of climbing that utilizesauxiliary devices as a means of ascent to supplement thenatural features of the surface being climbed.3.1.3 belay, na technique where a stationary personcontrols a rope connected to a moving climber in order toprovide protection against a fal

6、l, or in the event of a fall, tocatch the climber.3.1.4 belay, vto protect a climber with a belay.3.1.5 belayer, na person who is belaying.3.1.6 bouldering, na technique of climbing where climb-ers remain close to the ground and do not use a rope tosafeguard their progress.3.1.7 brake bar rack, na v

7、ariable friction device consist-ing of a u-shaped metal bar to which are attached several metalbars that create friction on the rope. Also known as a rappelrack.3.1.8 chest harness, na type of harness worn around thechest for upper body support.3.1.9 climber, na person engaging in the sport of climb

8、-ing and mountaineering.3.1.10 climbing and mountaineering, nthe sport ofascending, descending, and traversing on mountainous terrain,snow and ice, and natural and simulated rock surfaces.3.1.11 climbing and mountaineering equipment, ntheequipment exclusively designed for use in climbing andmountain

9、eering.3.1.12 dynamic rope (rope systems), na class of ropesthat is used for rescue work and rappelling when greater energyabsorption qualities are required, such as in lead climbing orwhenever a high fall potential exists. Such ropes are typicallycertified to UIAA or CE climbing rope standards.3.1.

10、13 evacuation, nthe process used to move the patient/subject between the completion of extraction and the beginningof transportation.3.1.14 extraction, nthe process of removing the patient/subject from an immediately hazardous environment alongwith assessment, treatment, stabilization, and packaging

11、.3.1.15 free climbing, na technique of climbing that usesonly the natural features of the surface being climbed. In freeclimbing, equipment may be utilized to provide protection inthe event of a fall, but is not used to assist progress.3.1.16 john boat (maritime), na skiff with a flat bottom.3.1.17

12、lead climbing, nthe skill of climbing first up apitch, utilizing a belayer, climbing rope, and intermediateprotection anchors.3.1.18 low stretch rope (rope systems), n a class ofropes that is used for rescue work and rappelling with anelongation greater than 6 % and less than 10 % at 10 % of itsmini

13、mum breaking strength.3.1.19 pike pole (maritime), na long, slender, hookedpole used by boaters to retrieve line, objects, and so forth fromwater. Also known as a boat hook.3.1.20 rappel, nthe set up of anchors and equipment usedto rappel.1This terminology is under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee

14、 F32 on Searchand Rescue and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee F32.01 on Equipment,Testing, and Maintenance.Current edition approved Dec. 1, 2015. Published December 2015. Originallyapproved in 1997. Last previous edition approved in 2009 as F1773 09. DOI:10.1520/F1773-09R15.2For referenc

15、ed ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, orcontact ASTM Customer Service at serviceastm.org. For Annual Book of ASTMStandards volume information, refer to the standards Document Summary page onthe ASTM website.3The last approved version of this historical standard is referenced onwww

16、.astm.org.*A Summary of Changes section appears at the end of this standardCopyright ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959. United States13.1.21 rappel, vto descend by sliding down a rope usingequipment or special technique, or both, which applies f

17、riction,thereby controlling the speed of descent.3.1.22 ring buoy (maritime), na Type 4 personal floata-tion device, usually made of a hard buoyant material with a lineencircling it.3.1.23 route, nthe path chosen by a climber.3.1.24 safety factor (rope systems), nthe ratio betweenthe breaking streng

18、th and the load; commonly used inter-changeably with the term load ratio, the term safety factor isproperly applied only to systems and not to individual compo-nents.3.1.25 self belay, na technique of self protection em-ployed by a climber using climbing and mountaineeringequipment.3.1.26 soloing, n

19、a technique of climbing where theclimber is alone. A belay may or may not be used.3.1.27 static rope (rope systems), na class of ropes thatis used for rescue work and rappelling that has a maximumelongation of 6 % at 10 % of its minimum breaking strength.3.1.28 third party certification, na certific

20、ation by anindependent testing organization that a particular productmeets a referenced standard.3.1.29 top rope climbing, na technique of climbingwhere the climber is safeguarded by a roped belay from above.3.2 Definitions of Climbing and Mountaineering EquipmentTerms:3.2.1 accessory cord, nropes u

21、sed for climbing andmountaineering purposes that are not designed to absorb fallimpact energy.3.2.2 artificial climbing wall (ACW), na wall exclu-sively designed and built for climbing. The ACWs may bedesigned and used for lead climbing, top rope climbing orbouldering. The ACWs may be transportable

22、or permanent.3.2.3 ascender, na device used to ascend a rope.3.2.4 belay anchor, nan anchor used to secure the rope orbelayer, or both, while belaying a climber. It also may be usedwith ropes while descending or lowering.3.2.5 belay bar, na belay anchor made from pipe or a bar.3.2.6 belay device, na

23、 mechanical device used to controlthe friction on a rope.3.2.7 belay station, na place where belay anchors arelocated.3.2.8 bolt hanger, na device which, when attached to asurface by the means of a bolt, is used to provide an anchorpoint.3.2.9 carabiner, na self-closing, gated, load-bearing,connecti

24、ve device.3.2.10 carabiner, locking, na carabiner with a gate-locking mechanism.3.2.11 carabiner, nonlocking, na carabiner without agate-locking mechanism.3.2.12 chock, na device that is placed in a crack or pocketin rock and designed to withstand a load applied throughwebbing, rope, wire, or a cara

25、biner.3.2.13 chock, active, na chock containing moving partsthat control its width.3.2.14 chock, passive, na chock containing no movingparts.3.2.15 crampon, na foot-mounted piece of equipmentwith spikes designed to provide traction or support on snowand ice.3.2.16 descender, na rappel device.3.2.17

26、floor anchor, na belay anchor on the floor.3.2.18 harness, na piece of equipment designed to beworn by a climber or mountaineer that provides an attachmentpoint for a rope and a means to support the climbers bodyduring climbing, resting, rappelling, or falling.3.2.19 harness, chest, nthe part of a c

27、ombination harnessthat fits around the upper part of the body.3.2.20 harness, combination, na harness consisting of asit harness and chest harness.3.2.21 harness, full-body, na harness that fits around theupper part, the waist, and thighs of the body.3.2.22 harness, sit, na harness that fits around

28、the waistand thighs of the body. Sometimes referred to as a seat harness.3.2.23 helmet, na piece of equipment designed to provideprotection to climbers heads from falling objects and theimpact of a fall.3.2.24 ice tool, na hand-held piece of equipment designedto assist climbers and mountaineers on i

29、ce or hard snow.3.2.25 kernmantle construction, na method of makingcord and rope by braiding a sheath or cover (mantle) over acore (kern) of parallel, twisted, or braided stands.3.2.26 low elongation ropes, nropes with low elongationor stretch properties used principally for static loads. Lowelongat

30、ion ropes sometimes are referred to as static ropes.3.2.27 piton, nice, a device designed to be hammered intoice to provide a belay or protection anchor.3.2.28 piton, nrock, a device designed to be driven by ahammer into a crack in rock to provide a belay or protectionanchor.3.2.29 protection anchor

31、s, nanchors used to secure aclimbing rope while leading a climb or to lower off one.3.2.30 pulley, na device containing a grooved wheel overwhich a rope runs to reduce friction and change the angle ofpull.3.2.31 rappel device, na friction device used on a rope tocontrol the speed while rappelling.3.

32、2.32 rock protection, nequipment designed to provideprotection and belay anchors in rock.3.2.33 rope, nwound or woven length of filaments, pro-vided in various diameters, lengths, and elasticity depending onspecific end use.3.2.33.1 climbing, na rope of kernmantle construction,specifically designed

33、to provide support, facilitate movement,and protect a climber by cushioning the impact of a fall.Climbing ropes sometimes are referred to as dynamic ropes.3.2.33.2 double, na half rope.3.2.33.3 half, na climbing rope that must be used withanother half rope with one or both ropes being attached topro

34、tection anchors.3.2.33.4 single, na climbing rope that may be used alone.F1773 09 (2015)23.2.33.5 twin, na special type of half rope in which bothrope strands are used as one with both running through thesame protection anchors.3.2.34 runner, na sewn or tied loop of webbing or ropedesigned to suppor

35、t a load.3.2.35 quick draw, na short runner.3.2.36 screw, ice na device designed to be screwed intoice to provide a belay or protection anchor.3.2.37 sling, na runner.3.2.38 snow anchor, na device driven into or buried insnow to provide a belay or protection anchor.3.2.39 webbing, na flat or tubular

36、 length of woven fabricused for a variety of purposes in climbing and mountaineering.3.3 Other Terms:3.3.1 attribute data, nobserved values or determinationswhich indicate the presence or absence of specific character-istics.E4563.3.2 laboratory performance rating, nthe rating of aproducts performan

37、ce defined by a standard test method.3.3.3 laboratory rated strength, nthe strength definedby a standard test method that 99.7 %, or more, of a populationexceeds. The number shall be derived using a 3-s rating. Ratedstrength shall be expressed in metric units of force, kilonew-tons (kN).3.3.4 lot, n

38、a definite quantity of a product or materialaccumulated under conditions that are considered uniform forsampling.E4563.3.5 performance rating, nthe rating of a productsperformance defined by a standard test method.3.3.6 population, nthe totality of items or units of mate-rial under consideration.E45

39、63.3.7 sample, na group of items, observations, testresults, or portions of material, taken from a large collection(population) of items, observations, test results, or quantities ofmaterial that serves to provide information that may be used asa basis for making a decision concerning the larger col

40、lection.E4563.3.8 sample average (x), nthe sum of all the observedvalues in a sample divided by the sample size. It is a pointestimate of the population mean.E11503.3.9 sample standard deviation (s), nthe square root ofthe sample variance. It is a point estimate of the populationstandard deviation,

41、a measure of the spread of the frequencydistribution of a population. Sample standard deviation isdefined as follows:s 5n(x22 (x!2nn 2 1!(1)where:s = sample standard deviation,n = number of units in a sample, andx = sample property being measured.E11503.3.10 three s rating (3 s), na statistical meth

42、od used toderive rated strength, using the formula:Rated Strength 5 x 2 3s! (2)where:x = tested samples average ultimate strength, ands = tested samples standard deviation.3.3.11 ultimate strength, nthe maximum force sustainedas defined by a standard test method.3.3.12 variable data, nmeasurements t

43、hat vary and maytake any of a specified set of numerical values.E456SUMMARY OF CHANGESCommittee F32 has identified the location of selected changes to this terminology since the last issue,F1773 97(2004), that may impact the use of this terminology. (Approved October 1, 2009)(1) Revised the Title an

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