ASTM F1773-2009 Standard Terminology Relating to Climbing Mountaineering Search and Rescue Equipment and Practices《与攀岩和登山运动器材及原则有关的标准术语》.pdf

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1、Designation: F1773 09Standard Terminology Relating toClimbing, Mountaineering, Search and Rescue Equipmentand Practices1This standard is issued under the fixed designation F1773; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year oforiginal adoption or, in the case of revision, the

2、year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. Asuperscript epsilon () indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.1. Scope*1.1 This terminology document is a compilation of defini-tions of terms, abbreviations, and acronyms that are uni

3、que toclimbing, mountaineering, search and rescue collected in orderto provide consistency in communication when used in actualoperations, training, literature, and the statistical basis forrating a products performance dealing with this field.2. Referenced Documents2.1 ASTM Standards:2E456 Terminol

4、ogy Relating to Quality and StatisticsE1150 Definitions of Terms Relating to Fatigue3. Terminology3.1 Definitions of General Climbing and MountaineeringTerms:3.1.1 access, nthe process of reaching the patients orsubjects and establishing physical contact with them.3.1.2 aid climbing, na technique of

5、 climbing that utilizesauxiliary devices as a means of ascent to supplement thenatural features of the surface being climbed.3.1.3 belay, na technique where a stationary personcontrols a rope connected to a moving climber in order toprovide protection against a fall, or in the event of a fall, tocat

6、ch the climber.3.1.4 belay, vto protect a climber with a belay.3.1.5 belayer, na person who is belaying.3.1.6 bouldering, na technique of climbing where climb-ers remain close to the ground and do not use a rope tosafeguard their progress.3.1.7 brake bar rack, na variable friction device consist-ing

7、 of a u-shaped metal bar to which are attached several metalbars that create friction on the rope. Also known as a rappelrack.3.1.8 chest harness, na type of harness worn around thechest for upper body support.3.1.9 climber, na person engaging in the sport of climb-ing and mountaineering.3.1.10 clim

8、bing and mountaineering, nthe sport of as-cending, descending, and traversing on mountainous terrain,snow and ice, and natural and simulated rock surfaces.3.1.11 climbing and mountaineering equipment, ntheequipment exclusively designed for use in climbing andmountaineering.3.1.12 dynamic rope (rope

9、systems), na class of ropesthat is used for rescue work and rappelling when greater energyabsorption qualities are required, such as in lead climbing orwhenever a high fall potential exists. Such ropes are typicallycertified to UIAA or CE climbing rope standards.3.1.13 evacuation, nthe process used

10、to move the patient/subject between the completion of extraction and the beginningof transportation.3.1.14 extraction, nthe process of removing the patient/subject from an immediately hazardous environment alongwith assessment, treatment, stabilization, and packaging.3.1.15 free climbing, na techniq

11、ue of climbing that usesonly the natural features of the surface being climbed. In freeclimbing, equipment may be utilized to provide protection inthe event of a fall, but is not used to assist progress.3.1.16 john boat (maritime), na skiff with a flat bottom.3.1.17 lead climbing, nthe skill of clim

12、bing first up apitch, utilizing a belayer, climbing rope, and intermediateprotection anchors.3.1.18 low stretch rope (rope systems), n a class ofropes that is used for rescue work and rappelling with anelongation greater than 6 % and less than 10 % at 10 % of itsminimum breaking strength.3.1.19 pike

13、 pole (maritime), na long, slender, hookedpole used by boaters to retrieve line, objects, and so forth fromwater. Also known as a boat hook.3.1.20 rappel, nthe set up of anchors and equipment usedto rappel.3.1.21 rappel, vto descend by sliding down a rope usingequipment or special technique, or both

14、, which applies friction,thereby controlling the speed of descent.1This terminology is under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee F32 on Searchand Rescue and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee F32.01 on Equipment,Testing, and Maintenance.Current edition approved Oct. 1, 2009. Published Novem

15、ber 2009. Originallyapproved in 1997. Last previous edition approved in 2004 as F1773 97(2004).DOI: 10.1520/F1773-09.2For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, orcontact ASTM Customer Service at serviceastm.org. For Annual Book of ASTMStandards volume information, refer to

16、 the standards Document Summary page onthe ASTM website.1*A Summary of Changes section appears at the end of this standard.Copyright ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959, United States.3.1.22 ring buoy (maritime), na Type 4 personal floata-tion dev

17、ice, usually made of a hard buoyant material with a lineencircling it.3.1.23 route, nthe path chosen by a climber.3.1.24 safety factor (rope systems), nthe ratio betweenthe breaking strength and the load; commonly used inter-changeably with the term load ratio, the term safety factor isproperly appl

18、ied only to systems and not to individual compo-nents.3.1.25 self belay, na technique of self protection em-ployed by a climber using climbing and mountaineeringequipment.3.1.26 soloing, na technique of climbing where theclimber is alone. A belay may or may not be used.3.1.27 static rope (rope syste

19、ms), na class of ropes thatis used for rescue work and rappelling that has a maximumelongation of 6 % at 10 % of its minimum breaking strength.3.1.28 third party certification, na certification by anindependent testing organization that a particular productmeets a referenced standard.3.1.29 top rope

20、 climbing, na technique of climbingwhere the climber is safeguarded by a roped belay from above.3.2 Definitions of Climbing and Mountaineering EquipmentTerms:3.2.1 accessory cord, nropes used for climbing andmountaineering purposes that are not designed to absorb fallimpact energy.3.2.2 artificial c

21、limbing wall (ACW), na wall exclu-sively designed and built for climbing. The ACWs may bedesigned and used for lead climbing, top rope climbing orbouldering. The ACWs may be transportable or permanent.3.2.3 ascender, na device used to ascend a rope.3.2.4 belay anchor, nan anchor used to secure the r

22、ope orbelayer, or both, while belaying a climber. It also may be usedwith ropes while descending or lowering.3.2.5 belay bar, na belay anchor made from pipe or a bar.3.2.6 belay device, na mechanical device used to controlthe friction on a rope.3.2.7 belay station, na place where belay anchors arelo

23、cated.3.2.8 bolt hanger, na device which, when attached to asurface by the means of a bolt, is used to provide an anchorpoint.3.2.9 carabiner, na self-closing, gated, load-bearing,connective device.3.2.10 carabiner, locking, na carabiner with a gate-locking mechanism.3.2.11 carabiner, nonlocking, na

24、 carabiner without agate-locking mechanism.3.2.12 chock, na device that is placed in a crack or pocketin rock and designed to withstand a load applied throughwebbing, rope, wire, or a carabiner.3.2.13 chock, active, na chock containing moving partsthat control its width.3.2.14 chock, passive, na cho

25、ck containing no movingparts.3.2.15 crampon, na foot-mounted piece of equipmentwith spikes designed to provide traction or support on snowand ice.3.2.16 descender, na rappel device.3.2.17 floor anchor, na belay anchor on the floor.3.2.18 harness, na piece of equipment designed to beworn by a climber

26、 or mountaineer that provides an attachmentpoint for a rope and a means to support the climbers bodyduring climbing, resting, rappelling, or falling.3.2.19 harness, chest, nthe part of a combination harnessthat fits around the upper part of the body.3.2.20 harness, combination, na harness consisting

27、 of asit harness and chest harness.3.2.21 harness, full-body, na harness that fits around theupper part, the waist, and thighs of the body.3.2.22 harness, sit, na harness that fits around the waistand thighs of the body. Sometimes referred to as a seat harness.3.2.23 helmet, na piece of equipment de

28、signed to provideprotection to climbers heads from falling objects and theimpact of a fall.3.2.24 ice tool, na hand-held piece of equipment designedto assist climbers and mountaineers on ice or hard snow.3.2.25 kernmantle construction, na method of makingcord and rope by braiding a sheath or cover (

29、mantle) over acore (kern) of parallel, twisted, or braided stands.3.2.26 low elongation ropes, nropes with low elongationor stretch properties used principally for static loads. Lowelongation ropes sometimes are referred to as static ropes.3.2.27 piton, nice, a device designed to be hammered intoice

30、 to provide a belay or protection anchor.3.2.28 piton, nrock, a device designed to be driven by ahammer into a crack in rock to provide a belay or protectionanchor.3.2.29 protection anchors, nanchors used to secure aclimbing rope while leading a climb or to lower off one.3.2.30 pulley, na device con

31、taining a grooved wheel overwhich a rope runs to reduce friction and change the angle ofpull.3.2.31 rappel device, na friction device used on a rope tocontrol the speed while rappelling.3.2.32 rock protection, nequipment designed to provideprotection and belay anchors in rock.3.2.33 rope, nwound or

32、woven length of filaments, pro-vided in various diameters, lengths, and elasticity depending onspecific end use.climbing, na rope of kernmantle construction, specificallydesigned to provide support, facilitate movement, and pro-tect a climber by cushioning the impact of a fall. Climbingropes sometim

33、es are referred to as dynamic ropes.double, na half rope.half, na climbing rope that must be used with another halfrope with one or both ropes being attached to protectionanchors.single, na climbing rope that may be used alone.twin, na special type of half rope in which both rope strandsare used as

34、one with both running through the sameprotection anchors.F1773 0923.2.34 runner, na sewn or tied loop of webbing or ropedesigned to support a load.3.2.35 quick draw, na short runner.3.2.36 screw, ice na device designed to be screwed intoice to provide a belay or protection anchor.3.2.37 sling, na ru

35、nner.3.2.38 snow anchor, na device driven into or buried insnow to provide a belay or protection anchor.3.2.39 webbing, na flat or tubular length of woven fabricused for a variety of purposes in climbing and mountaineering.3.3 Other Terms:3.3.1 attribute data, nobserved values or determinationswhich

36、 indicate the presence or absence of specific character-istics.E4563.3.2 laboratory performance rating, nthe rating of aproducts performance defined by a standard test method.3.3.3 laboratory rated strength, nthe strength definedby a standard test method that 99.7 %, or more, of a populationexceeds.

37、 The number shall be derived using a 3-s rating. Ratedstrength shall be expressed in metric units of force, kilonew-tons (kN).3.3.4 lot, na definite quantity of a product or materialaccumulated under conditions that are considered uniform forsampling.E4563.3.5 performance rating, nthe rating of a pr

38、oductsperformance defined by a standard test method.3.3.6 population, nthe totality of items or units of mate-rial under consideration.E4563.3.7 sample, na group of items, observations, test re-sults, or portions of material, taken from a large collection(population) of items, observations, test res

39、ults, or quantities ofmaterial that serves to provide information that may be used asa basis for making a decision concerning the larger collection.E4563.3.8 sample average ( x), nthe sum of all the observedvalues in a sample divided by the sample size. It is a pointestimate of the population mean.E

40、11503.3.9 sample standard deviation (s), nthe square root ofthe sample variance. It is a point estimate of the populationstandard deviation, a measure of the spread of the frequencydistribution of a population. Sample standard deviation isdefined as follows:s 5n(x22 (x!2nn 2 1!(1)where:s = sample st

41、andard deviation,n = number of units in a sample, andx = sample property being measured.E11503.3.10 three s rating (3s), na statistical method used toderive rated strength, using the formula:Rated Strength 5 x 2 3s!(2)where:x = tested samples average ultimate strength, ands = tested samples standard

42、 deviation.3.3.11 ultimate strength, nthe maximum force sustainedas defined by a standard test method.3.3.12 variable data, nmeasurements that vary and maytake any of a specified set of numerical values.E456SUMMARY OF CHANGESCommittee F32 has identified the location of selected changes to this termi

43、nology since the last issue,F1773 97(2004), that may impact the use of this terminology. (Approved October 1, 2009)(1) Revised the Title and Scope and added several new terms.ASTM International takes no position respecting the validity of any patent rights asserted in connection with any item mentio

44、nedin this standard. Users of this standard are expressly advised that determination of the validity of any such patent rights, and the riskof infringement of such rights, are entirely their own responsibility.This standard is subject to revision at any time by the responsible technical committee an

45、d must be reviewed every five years andif not revised, either reapproved or withdrawn. Your comments are invited either for revision of this standard or for additional standardsand should be addressed to ASTM International Headquarters. Your comments will receive careful consideration at a meeting o

46、f theresponsible technical committee, which you may attend. If you feel that your comments have not received a fair hearing you shouldmake your views known to the ASTM Committee on Standards, at the address shown below.This standard is copyrighted by ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box

47、 C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959,United States. Individual reprints (single or multiple copies) of this standard may be obtained by contacting ASTM at the aboveaddress or at 610-832-9585 (phone), 610-832-9555 (fax), or serviceastm.org (e-mail); or through the ASTM website(www.astm.org).F1773 093