ASTM D3135-1987(2005) Standard Specification for Performance of Bonded Fused and Laminated Apparel Fabrics《粘合的、熔凝纤维的及叠层衣料的性能》.pdf

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1、Designation: D 3135 87 (Reapproved 2005)Standard Specification forPerformance of Bonded, Fused, and Laminated ApparelFabrics1This standard is issued under the fixed designation D 3135; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year oforiginal adoption or, in the case of revision

2、, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. Asuperscript epsilon (e) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.1. Scope1.1 This specification covers requirements for performanceproperties of bonded, fused, and laminated appare

3、l fabrics.2. Referenced Documents2.1 ASTM Standards:2D 123 Terminology Relating to TextilesD 2724 Test Methods for Bonded, Fused, and LaminatedApparel FabricsD 3512 Test Method for Pilling Resistance and Other Re-lated Surface Changes of Textile Fabrics: Random TumblePilling Tester Method2.2 AATCC S

4、tandards:AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1 (1954), Gray Scale forColor Change3AATCC Test Method 124, Appearance of Durable-PressFabrics After Repeated Home Launderings33. Terminology3.1 blister, nin bonded, fused, or laminated fabrics, abulge, swelling, or similar surface condition on either the facefabr

5、ic or the backing fabric characterized by the fabric beingraised from the plane of the underlying component over alimited area to give a puffy appearance.3.2 bonded fabric, na layered fabric structure wherein aface or shell fabric is joined to a backing fabric, such as tricot,with an adhesive that d

6、oes not significantly add to the thicknessof the combined fabrics.3.2.1 DiscussionIn this context, a thin layer of foam isconsidered an adhesive when the cell structure is completelycollapsed by a flame.3.3 bond strength, n of bonded, fused, or laminatedfabrics, the tensile force expressed in ounces

7、 per 1 in. (25 mm)of width, required to separate the component layers underspecified conditions.3.4 bubblesee preferred term blister.3.5 closed-face fabric, na face or shell fabric of closedconstruction so that no open-face areas appear.3.6 crack mark, nCrack marks are usually the result ofcombining

8、 tight fabric constructions at least one of which doesnot have sufficient residual stretch to allow the combinedfabrics to be bent in an arc without producing crack marks onthe concave side of the arc. Crack marks also occur whenbonded fabrics are allowed to remain in a creased or wrinkledstate befo

9、re full adhesive cure has taken place. Other causesinclude the use of excessive adhesive in bonding, or excessivefoam thicknesses and excessive foam collapse in flame lami-nation.sharp break or crease in the surface contour of either theface fabric or the backing fabric that becomes evident when the

10、bonded or laminated composite is rolled, bent, draped, orfolded.3.6.1 DiscussionCrack marks are usually the result ofcombining tight fabric constructions at least one of which doesnot have sufficient residual stretch to allow the combinedfabrics to be bent in an arc without producing crack marks ont

11、he concave side of the arc. Crack marks also occur whenbonded fabrics are allowed to remain in a creased or wrinkledstate before full adhesive cure has taken place. Other causesinclude the use of excessive adhesive in bonding, or excessivefoam thicknesses and excessive foam collapse in flame lami-na

12、tion.3.7 foam tear, na condition wherein the foam portion of alaminated fabric ruptures prior to the failure of the bond.1This specification is under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee D13 onTextiles and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.61 on Apparel.Current edition approved Sept. 1,

13、 2005. Published December 2005. Originallyapproved in 1972. Last previous edition approved in 2000 as D 3135 87(2000)2For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, orcontact ASTM Customer Service at serviceastm.org. For Annual Book of ASTMStandards volume information, refer to

14、 the standards Document Summary page onthe ASTM website.3Technical Manual of the American Association of Textile Chemists andColorists, available from theAATCC, P. O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC27709.1Copyright ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 1

15、9428-2959, United States.3.8 fused fabric, na type of bonded fabric made byadhering a fusible fabric to another fabric, such as for use as aninterlining.3.9 fusible fabric, na utilitarian fabric which has a ther-moplastic adhesive applied to one side, usually in a pattern ofdots, so that the surface

16、 can be bonded to another fabric surfaceby the use of heat and pressure.3.10 interlining, nany textile which is intended for incor-poration into an article of wearing apparel as a layer betweenan outer shell and an inner lining.3.11 laminated fabric, na layered fabric structure whereina face or oute

17、r fabric is joined to a continuous sheet material,such as a polyurethane foam, in such a way that the identity ofthe continuous sheet material is retained, either by the flamemethod or by an adhesive, and this in turn normally but notalways, is joined on the back with a backing fabric such astricot.

18、3.12 open-face fabric, na face or shell fabric constructedwith specifically designed open areas to show the substratewhen joined to another material.3.13 puckering, nin bonded, fused, or laminated fabric, awavy, three-dimensional effect typified by closely spacedwrinkles, on either the face fabric o

19、r the backing fabric or both.3.13.1 DiscussionPuckering may be due to: (1) differen-tial shrinkage of the component layers, (2) differences intension when the component layers are combined, or ( 3)selective lineal delamination.3.14 For definitions of other textile terms used in thisspecification, re

20、fer to Terminology D 123.4. Delamination4.1 After DrycleaningWhen the front and the back of thebonded, fused, or laminated fabric are mounted without ten-sioning or stretching and viewed separately as directed inSections 7.2 and 7.3 on Evaluation in AATCC Method 124,there shall be no visible evidenc

21、e of separation of the compo-nent layers after three cycles in a coin-operated drycleaningmachine, without steam pressing.4.2 After LaunderingWhen the front and the back of thebonded, fused, or laminated fabric are mounted without ten-sioning or stretching and viewed separately as directed inSection

22、s 7.2 and 7.3 on Evaluation in AATCC Method 124,there shall be no visible evidence of separation of the compo-nent layers after five cycles of laundering and five cycles ofdrying.5. Shrinkage (or Growth)5.1 After Drycleaning:5.1.1 The average shrinkage of four test specimens afterthree cycles in a c

23、oin-operated drycleaning machine, followedby one steam pressing, shall be used to assign the observedfabric shrinkage to Class I, Class II, or Class III, which havethe following shrinkage limits:Average Fabric ShrinkageLimits,%Class Length WidthI 3.0 or less 3.0 or lessII 3.1to6.0 3.1to6.0III 6.1 or

24、 more 6.1 or more5.1.1.1 If the shrinkage of a fabric falls within the allowablelimits for width for a specific class but does not meet the limitsfor length or vice versa, the fabric shall be assigned to thedrycleaning class in which the higher shrinkage occurs.5.1.2 Growth of the fabric shall not e

25、xceed 2.5 % in thelength direction or 2.5 % in the width direction after threecycles in a coin-operated drycleaning machine, followed byone steam pressing.5.1.2.1 If a fabric shrinks in drycleaning, for example, lessthan 3.0 % in length but at the same time grows less than 2.5 %in width or vice vers

26、a, it shall be assigned to Class I.5.1.2.2 If the fabric grows in drycleaning more than 2.5 %in either length or width, it shall be considered unacceptable,regardless of the shrinkage or growth in the other direction.5.2 After Laundering:5.2.1 The average shrinkage of four test specimens after fivec

27、ycles of laundering without hand ironing if the fabric isintended for use in a garment which does not require ironing orafter hand ironing following the fifth laundering cycle only ifthe fabric is intended for use in a garment which requiresironing, shall be used to assign the observed fabric shrink

28、age toClass I, Class II, or Class III as listed in 5.1.1.5.2.1.1 If the shrinkage of a fabric falls within the allowablelimits for width for a specific class but does not meet the limitsfor length or vice versa, the fabric shall be assigned to thelaundering shrinkage class in which the higher shrink

29、ageoccurs.5.2.2 Growth of the fabric shall not exceed 2.5 % in thelength direction and 2.5 % in the width direction after fivecycles of laundering without hand ironing if the fabric isintended for use in a garment that does not require ironing orafter hand ironing following the fifth laundering cycl

30、e only ifthe fabric is intended for use in a garment that requires ironing.5.2.2.1 If a fabric shrinks in laundering, for example, lessthan 3.0 % in length but at the same time grows less than 2.5 %in width or vice versa, it shall be assigned to Class I.5.2.2.2 If the fabric grows in laundering more

31、 than 2.5 % ineither length or width, it shall be considered unacceptable,regardless of the shrinkage or growth in the other direction.NOTE 1Normally, the dimensional stability of a garment is better inlaundering or drycleaning than the principal fabric from which it wasmade due to the stabilizing e

32、ffect of sewing and seaming and to thepreshrinkage obtained in garment pressing.NOTE 2Class shrinkage limits are provided because fabrics intendedfor various end uses do not all require the same shrinkage control toperform in a satisfactory manner after refurbishment.NOTE 3If the fabric is intended

33、for over-the-counter sales for homesewing, the fabric should be accompanied by instructions to prestabilizethe fabric by using one cycle of the appropriate refurbishment describedin 9.1 or 9.2 before converting the fabric into a garment.6. Appearance and Aesthetics6.1 After Drycleaning:6.1.1 Puckeri

34、ng, Crack Marks, Bubbles, or BlistersWhenthe front and the back of the bonded, fused, or laminated fabricare mounted without tensioning or stretching and viewedseparately as directed in Sections 7.2 and 7.3 on Evaluation inAATCC Method 124, there shall be no visible evidence ofpuckering, crack marks

35、, bubbles, or blisters of the componentD 3135 87 (2005)2layers after three cycles in a coin-operated drycleaning ma-chine, followed by one steam pressing.NOTE 4The acceptable change in stiffness shall be determined byagreement between the purchaser and the seller.6.1.2 Pilling Due to DrycleaningAfte

36、r three cycles in acoin-operated drycleaning machine, followed by one steampressing, the pilling rating of the fabric shall be at least 4 whenrated as directed in Test Method D 3512.6.1.3 Color ChangeAfter three cycles in a coin-operateddrycleaning machine, followed by one steam pressing, thedepth o

37、f shade change from the original color of the facefabric, the backing fabric, and the foam, if present and visible,shall not be less than a rating of 4 to 5 when evaluated byAATCC Evaluation Procedure 1, Gray Scale for Color Change.NOTE 5Color change should be reported only when fabrics of thesame c

38、olor and lot with or without a white dummy load are used in awashload or drycleaning load.6.2 After Laundering:6.2.1 Puckering, Crack Marks, Bubbles, or BlistersWhenthe front and the back of the bonded, fused, or laminated fabricare mounted without tensioning or stretching and viewedseparately as di

39、rected in Sections 6.2 and 7.3 on Evaluation inAATCC Method 124, there shall be no visible evidence ofpuckering, crack marks, bubbles, or blisters of the componentlayers after five cycles of laundering and five cycles of drying(Note 4).6.2.2 Pilling Due to Laundering and DryingAfter fivecycles of la

40、undering and five cycles of drying, the pilling ratingof the fabric shall be at least 4 when rated as directed in TestMethod D 3512.6.2.3 Color Change:6.2.3.1 Face FabricAfter five cycles of laundering andfive cycles of drying, the depth of shade change from theoriginal color of the face side of the

41、 fabric shall not be less thana rating of 3 to 4 when evaluated by AATCC EvaluationProcedure 1, Gray Scale for Color Change (Note 5).6.2.3.2 Backing FabricAfter five cycles of laundering andfive cycles of drying, the depth of shade change from theoriginal color of the backing fabric shall not be les

42、s than arating of 3 when evaluated byAATCC Evaluation Procedure 1,Gray Scale for Color Change (Note 5).6.2.4 WrinklesIf the fabric is designated as “durablepress,” the unpressed fabric shall have a minimum smoothnessrating of 4 after five cycles of laundering and five cycles ofdrying without ironing

43、 when rated as directed in Section 6 onEvaluation and Table II in AATCC Method 124.7. Strength of Bond7.1 Types of FabricStrength of bond shall be specifiedonly on closed face fabrics. Fabrics with open-face areas, suchas laces or open-face knitted fabrics designed specifically toshow the substrate,

44、 may not have enough fabric area availablefor bonding to give a useful indication of bond durability.7.2 After DrycleaningAfter three cycles in a coin-operated drycleaning machine, the minimum wet (in perchlo-rethylene) bond strength of the fabric shall be 1.5 ozf/in. (16N/m) of width when tested as

45、 directed in Section 13.3 of TestMethods D 2724.7.3 After LaunderingAfter five cycles of laundering andfive cycles of drying, the minimum wet (in water) bondstrength of the fabric shall be 1.5 ozf/in. (16 N/m) of widthwhen tested as directed in Section 13.3 of Test MethodsD 2724.8. Test Method8.1 Te

46、st all specimens as directed in Test Methods D 2724.9. General Requirements9.1 Drycleanable FabricsFor bonded, fused, or laminatedfabrics designated as drycleanable only, determine conform-ance to this specification after three cycles in a coin-operateddrycleaning machine, followed by one steam pres

47、sing after thethird cycle only.NOTE 6This specification requires the use of a coin-operated type ofdrycleaning machine, because available evidence shows that the action ofthis type of drycleaning machine is more severe than commercialdrycleaning machines or various small-scale laboratory-type drycle

48、aningmachines.9.2 Launderable FabricsFor bonded, fused, or laminatedfabrics designated as launderable, determine conformance tothis specification after (1) five cycles of laundering and fivecycles of drying by methods selected from the alternativeprocedures included in Section 11 in Test Methods D 2

49、724; and(2) three cycles in a coin-operated drycleaning machine,followed by one steam pressing after the third cycle only,unless the fabric is designated expressly as unsuitable fordrycleaning.10. Report10.1 State that the fabric was evaluated as directed inASTMSpecification D 3135. Describe the material or productsampled, and state the method of sampling used.10.2 State that the fabric was tested as directed in ASTMTest Methods D 2724.10.3 Report the following information:10.3.1 State whether the fabric was tested as drycleanable oras launderable