NAVY MIL-DTL-82193 C-1997 JACKET MAN-S - EVENING DRESS (OFFICER-S)《男士夜礼服夹克(官员的)》.pdf

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1、 MIL-DTL-82193C m 977770b 2059837 li72 m INCH-POUND MIL-DTL-821932 (MC) 16 October 1997 SUPERSEDING MIL-J-82193B (MC) 23 May 1994 DETAIL SPECIFICATION JACKET, MANS - EVENING DRESS (OFFICERS) This specification is approved for use by U.S. Marine Corps, Department of the Navy, and is available for use

2、 by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense. 1. SCOPE 1.1. Scope. This specification covers requirements for mens evening dress jackets. Beneficial comments (recommendations, additions, deletions) and any pertinent data which may be of use in improving this document should be addre

3、ssed to the Commander (PSE-D), Marine Corps Systems Command, Quantico, VA 22134-5010 by using the Standardization Document Improvement Proposal (DD Form 1426) appearing at the end of this document or by letter. AMSC N/A FSC 8405 DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release; distribution is

4、unlimited. Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- flIL-DTL-82193C 9999906 2059840 994 MIL-DTL-82193C (MC) 1.2. Classification. The jacket will be of one type in the following sizes as specified (see 6.2): Schedule of Sizes Short Requ 1 ar L

5、onq Extra Lonq 36 36 38 38 40 40 42 42 44 44 46 36 38 40 42 44 46 36 38 40 42 44 1.3. Individual order. When the jacket is made for an individual order, this specification will govern, except that the detailed requirements of Section 3, Table I may be modified to the extent necessary for good custom

6、 tailoring practices. 2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS 2.1. General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3 and 4 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. ev

7、ery effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements documents cited in sections 3 and 4 of this specification, whether or not they are listed. While 2.2. Government documents. 2.2.1 Specifications, standards, a

8、nd handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those listed in the issue of the Department of Defense Index of Specifications and Standards (DoDISS) and su

9、pplement thereto, cited in the solicitation (see 6.2). e e 2 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-8 MIL-DTL-823193C m 9999906 20598431 820 m MIL-DTL-82193C (MC) . SPECIFICATIONS FEDERAL A-A-5018 6 A-A-501 96 A-A-501 98 A-A-5 O 199 A-A-52 O

10、 7 1 A-A-52 O 9 4 A-A-52 1 O 5 A-A-52 1 O 6 DDD-L-20 V-B-871 - Cloth, Buckram, Woven and Nonwoven - Thread, Silk - Thread, Gimp, Cotton, Buttonhole - Thread, Polyester Core, Cotton or Polyester - Tape, Textile, Cotton, General Purpose - Thread, Cotton - Cloth, Interlining, Cotton or Synthetic - Clot

11、h, Twill or Plain Weave, Polyester and - Label: For Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage, - Button, Sewing Hole, and Button, Staple, Covered (Unbleached, Bleached, or Dyed) Warp, and Spun Hair-Wool or Rayon Filling Polyester Blend (General Use) (Plastic) DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE MIL-C-368 - Cloth, Satin, Ra

12、yon and Cloth, Twill, Rayon MIL-DTL-3461 - Button, Insignia, Metal, Uniform and Cap MIL-P-15064 - Fads, Shoulder and Sleeve-Head MIL-C-16375 - Cloth, Wigan, Cotton MIL-C-29405 - Cloth, Broadcloth: Wool and Wool/Nylon MIL-DTL-82194 - Ornamentation - For Jacket, Mans, Evening Dress, Officers STAN DARD

13、S FEDERAL FED-STD-191 - Textile Test Methods FED-STD-751 - Stitches, Seams, and Stitchings (Unless otherwise indicated, copies of the above specifications, standards, handbooks are available from the Standardization Document Order Desk, 700 Robbins Avenue, Building 4D, Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094) .

14、 2.3. Non-Government publications. The following document(s) form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. otherwise specified, the issues of the documents which are DoD adopted are those listed in the issue of the DoDISS cited in the solicitation. Unless otherwise specified, the issu

15、es of 3 Unless Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-documents not listed in the DoDISS are the issues of the documents cited in the solicitation (see 6.2). ANSI/ASQC 21.4 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes (Appli

16、cation for copies should be addressed to The American National Standards Institute, 11 West 42nd Street, New York, NY 10036). Department of Defense (DoD) Standard Color Card of Official Standardized Shades for Sewing Threads 1968 Department of Defense (DoD) Standard Shades for Buttons 1966 (Copies m

17、ay be obtained from the Color Association of the United States, Inc., 409 W. 44th Street, New York, NY 10016-0927). 2.4. Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this docu

18、ment, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained. 3. REQUIREMENTS 3.1. Standard sample. Standard samples are furnished solely for guidance and information to the contractor (see 6.3). Variation from this specification may appear in the sample, i

19、n which case the specification shall govern. 3.2. First article. When specified (see 6.21, a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection in accordance with 4.3. 3.3. Materials. 3.3.1 Basic material. The basic material shall be wool broadcloth, Hamburger Woolen Company, Style 839 (see 6.3),

20、 12 ounce, conforming to type I, class 2 of MIL-C-29405. 3.3.2 Lininq. The material for lining the jacket, collar and inside pocket facing shall be cloth, satin, rayon; scarlet, shade 2504 (see 6.3), conforming to class 3 of MIL-C-368. 4 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking per

21、mitted without license from IHS-,-,- MIL-DTL-82193C 99999Ob 2059843 bT3 MIL-DTL-82193C (MC) 3.3.3 Lininq for shoulder straps. The material for lining the shoulder straps shall be cloth, twill, rayon, black, shade 2604 (see 6.3), 3.7 ounce, conforming to class 1 of MIL-C-368. 3.3.4 Twill or plain wea

22、ve polyester or polyester blend. The material for making the inside pocket and collar interlining shall be cloth, twill or plain weave polyester or polyester blend, black, 5.5 ounce, conforming to class 1 of A-A-52106. 3.3.5 Wiqan. The material for reinforcing the bottom edge of sleeves and jacket s

23、hall be cloth, wigan, cotton, 2.5 ounce, conforming to type I of MIL-C-16375. 3.3.6 Collar interlininq. The material for interlining the collar shall be 2 plies of cloth; cotton, buckram, 12 ounce, conforming to type IV of A-A-50186. 3.37 Coat fronts. Materials for the coat front interlining shall c

24、onform to the following requirements. 3.3.7.1. Basic material. The basic material for the body of the coat front and dart stays shall be cloth, cotton warp and spun hair wool filling, conforming to type II of A-A-52105 3.3.7.2. Paddinq. The padding shall be flannel conforming to the following when t

25、ested as specified in Section 4, Table III. 3.3.7.2.1 Flannel. The material shall be cloth, flannel, unbleached, double napped, conforming to the following: Weight, ounces per square yard: minimum maximum Texture, threads per inch: warp minimum filling, minimum Breaking strength, pounds: warp minimu

26、m filling, minimum 4.0 5.5 38 34 30 25 5 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-Shrinkage - percent (maximum) : warp and filling 2.0 3.3.7.3. Haircloth. The front body and the reinforcement piece for the top front corner of the left and righ

27、t and shoulder stay for coat fronts shall be haircloth made with natural color, 2-ply cotton yarn in the warp and natural horsehair in the filling. The finished cloth shall have a minimum thread count of 60 per inch in the warp and 40 per inch in the filling, shall weigh not less than 4.5 ounces per

28、 square yard, and shall contain not more than 1.0 percent of non-fibrous material. 3.3.8 Shoulder pads. The shoulder pads shall conform to type I, class 2 of MIL-P-15064. 3.3.9 Sleeve-head pads. The sleeve-head pads shall conform to type IV of MIL-P-15064. 3.3.10 Tape, 3/8 inch. The tape for the fro

29、nt edges shall be 3/8 inch wide cotton, unbleached or bleached white, conforming to type II, class 1 or class 2 of A-A-52071. 3.3.11 Thread. 3.3.11.1.Silk thread. The silk thread shall conform to A-A-50196. I, ticket No. A for all outside seaming and stitching and ticket No. O for machine felling; t

30、icket No. B, 3-ply and ticket No. F, 3-ply top and lower thread, respectively for buttonholes as indicated in the thread columns in Table I. The thread for hand sewing shall be type III, ticket No. C, 2-ply. The requirements for extractable material shall not apply. The thread for machine sewing sha

31、ll conform to type 3.3.11.2.Cotton thread. The cotton thread shall conform to A-A-52094 type III, mercerized finish, ticket No. A, 3-ply for all inside seaming and stitching; type II, glazed finish, ticket No. 24, 4-ply for sewing on buttons. Soft finish cotton thread, type I, ticket No. 70, 2-ply s

32、hall be used for seaming and stitching the assembled parts of the coat fronts together and ticket No. 30, 3-ply shall be used for machine tacking of the armholes. As an alternate for cotton thread, a polyester cotton covered thread conforming to A-A-50199, ticket No. 50, 2 or 3-ply may be used. grad

33、e. The thread for basting shall be a good commercial 6 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- MIL-DTL-82L93C 9999906 2059845 47b MIL-DTL-82193C (MC) 3.3.11.3.Color and colorfastness. The cotton and silk thread for seaming and stitching the

34、basic material shall be dyed black, shade AA, cable No. 66043; and for seaming and stitching the lining, the thread shall be dyed scarlet, shade W, cable No. 66040. The cotton thread for basting and for machine tacking armholes may be white. Colored thread when tested as specified in the applicable

35、thread specification, shall, show good colorfastness to wet (dry) cleaning, and in addition the silk thread shall show good colorfastness to light (see DoD Standard Color Card of Official Standardized Shades for Sewing Threads 1968). 3.3.12 u. Buttonhole gimp shall be cotton, ticket No. 8 soft or gl

36、azed finish, conforming to type I or II of A-A-50198, showing good colorfastness to wet (dry) cleaning. The color shall approximate black, shade AA, cable No. 66043. 3.3.13 Buttons. 3.3.13.1.Insiqnia button. The insignia button for fronts, shoulder straps, and ornamented sleeve patch shall be metal,

37、 gold-plated, officer design, 27-line, conforming to type I, style 4, class A, sub-class 1 of MIL-DTL-3461. 3.3.13.2.Rinq toqqles. Ring toggles for securing buttons to ornamental sleeve patches shall conform to MIL-DTL-3461. 3.3.13.3.Sewinq hole buttons. Sewing hole buttons shall be pearlescent-poly

38、ester composition, glossy finish, style 15, 18-line for inside of collar, conforming to type II, class K of V-B-871. Color of buttons shall be white (see DoD Standard Shades for Buttons 1966). 3.3.14 Labels. clothing identification label and a size label conforming to DDD-L-20. Colorfastness for dry

39、 cleaning shall apply. Each jacket shall have a combined personal- 3.3.14.1.Combination personal-clothinq identification label. The combination personal-clothing identification label shall conform to type VI, classes 1 and 10 (combined), of DDD-L-20 except all printing and the space between the line

40、s of printing shall be minimum 10 point (approximately 1/8 inch). The content and format shall be as follows: 7 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- MIL-DTL-82L93C 999990b 205984b 302 D MIL-DTL-821932 (MC) Name : Service number: Collar si

41、ze: Nomenclature: (item description) Contract number: Name of contractor: Wool Products Act information 3.3.14.2.Size label. The size label shall be type I, class 2. The label shall consist of the numerical size designation specified in 1.2 followed by the letters S, R, L, or XL for Short, Regular,

42、Long and Extra Long, as shown by the following example : 4 OR 3.3.15 Collar closure hook and eye. the collar shall be brass, black japanned finish, conforming to the requirements herein, and the following: The hook and eye for closing 3.3.15.1.Finish. shall be clean, smooth, free from burrs, tool ma

43、rks, sharp edges, and roughness. The hook and eye shall be black japanned lacquer. The dry lacquer film shall be continuous, level, adherent, free from lint, dust, or other foreign inclusions that may affect appearance or serviceability, and shall withstand the test for tackiness specified in Sectio

44、n 4, Table III. All apertures of the finished lacquered hook and eye shall be completely open, and free of any lacquer film. All surfaces and edges of the hook and eye 3.3.16 Sleeve patches. accordance with MIL-DTL-82194. The sleeve patches are furnished prefabricated with ornamentation. prefabricat

45、ed with Ornamentation for company, field, and general officers, and may be obtained either finished or unfinished, with or without buttons attached. The sleeve patches are fabricated in Sleeve patches are 3.3.17 Collar ornamentation. fabricated in accordance with MIL-DTL-82194. collar is 2 inches. c

46、ollar. The ornamentation for the collar is Standard width of Short length jackets require a 1-3/4 inch . 3.3.18 Shoulder strap ornamentation. The ornamentation for the shoulder strap is fabricated in accordance with MIL-DTL-82194. The shoulder strap will be furnished prefabricated with 8 Provided by

47、 IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-82L3C m 777770b 2057847 249 MIL-DTL-8 2 19 3C (MC) ornamentation. Shoulder straps are made in 5-1/4, 5-3/8, 5-1/2, 5-5/8, 5-3/4, and 5-7/8 inches finished lengths. The 5-1/4 inch length is intended for use

48、 on the standard size 36 jacket, the 5-3/8 inches length on size 38, etc. When the shoulder of the standard size jacket is modified for an individual, a shorter or longer strap, as required, shall be used to permit the finished strap to conform to the requirements specified in Table I, operation 5.

49、3.4. Desiqn. The jacket shall be the Marine Corps design shown on Figures 1 through 5; a formfitting jacket, designed to be worn open and held together at the collar with a single hook and eye fastener; having 13 gold-plated insignia buttons on the right front and 13 uncut buttonholes on the left front; front darts; an ornamented stand-up collar with one worked eyelet in each end for attaching