DLA MIL-C-29427 B-1994 COATS WOMEN-S《女式大衣》.pdf

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1、MIL-C-29427B 9999906 1992258 114 MIL-C-29427B(MC) 21 November 1994 SUPERSEDING MIL-C-29427A(MC) 9 October 1990 MILITARY SPECIFICATION COATS, WOMENS This specification is approved for use by U.S. Marine Corps, Department of the Navy, and is available for use by all departments and agencies of the Dep

2、artment of Defense. 1.1 Scope. This specification covers requirements for womens coats. 1.2 Classification. The coats shall be of one type and class in the following sizes as specified (see 6.2): Class 1 - Polyester/Wool Gabardine, Green 2212 Beneficial comments (recommendations, additions, deletion

3、s) and any pertinent data which may be of use in improving this document should be addressed to: Defense Personnel Support Center, Clothing and Textiles Directorate, Attn: DPSC-FQSD, 2800 South 20th Street, Philadelphia, PA 19145-5099, by using the Standardization Document Improvement Proposal (DD F

4、orm 1426) appearing at the end of this document or by letter. AMSC N/A FSC 8410 DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited. Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-Short xo 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 2. APPLI

5、CABLE DOCUMENTS Schedule of sizes Reqular xo 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 Lonq xo 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 2.1 Government documents 2.1.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document issues of these documents shall be those lis

6、ted in the issue of the Department of Defense Index of Specifications and Standards and supplement thereto, cited in the solicitation (see 6.2). - to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the (DODISS) SPECIFICATIONS FEDERAL A-A- 2 O 3 A-A-5 O O 6 7 A-A-5 O1 86 A-A-50 19 6 A-A-50 1

7、9 8 A-A-5 O1 9 9 A-A-5 2 O 9 4 A-A-52 1 O 6 V-T-295 DDD-L- 2 O DDD-T-86 MIL I TARY MIL-C-29 7 Paper, Kraft, Untreated Cloth, Flannel, Wool, Undercollar Cloth Cloth, Buckram, Woven and Nonwoven Thread, Silk Thread, Gimp, Cotton, Buttonhole Thread, Polyester Core, Cotton- or Polyester-Covered Thread,

8、Cotton Cloth, Twill or Plain Weave, Polyester, or Polyester Blend Thread, Nylon Label; For Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage (General Use) Tape, Textile, Cotton, General Purpose (Unbleached, Bleached, or Dyed) Cloth, Interlining, Cotton Warp, and Spun Hair-Wool Filling 2 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleN

9、o reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-C-29427B m 9999906 1992260 872 m MIL-C-368 MIL-B-371 MIL-C-10176 MIL-P-15064 MIL-C-15065 MIL-B-17757 MIL-B-20289 MIL-(2-29137 MIL-C-44192 MIL-C-44296 STANDARDS FEDERAL FED-STD-191 FED-STD-751 MIL I TARY MIL-STD-129 MIL-STD-147 M

10、IL-STD-1608 MIL-STD-731 MIL-STD-984 Cloth, Satin, Rayon and CLoth, Twill, Braid, Textile, Tubular Cloth, Gabardine; Wool, Polyester/Wool Pad, Shoulder and Sleeve-Head Coat, Fronts Box, Shipping, Fiberboard (Modular Button, Insignia, Plastic Cloth, Felt Fabric, Composite Container, Shipping and Stora

11、ge, Cloth, Fusibles Rayon Sizes) Undercollar Coat (Hanger Pack) - Textile Test Methods - Stitches, Seams, and Stitchings - - Palletized Unit Load - Provisions for Evaluating Quality - Quality of Wood Members for Containers - Provisions for Size Labeling of Womens Marking for Shipment and Storage of

12、Coats, Womens, Dress and Pallets Uniform Clothing (Unless otherwise indicated, copies of Federal and military - specifications, standards and handbooks are available from the Standardization Documents Order Desk, Bldg. 4D, 700 Robbins Avenue, Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094.) 2.1.2 Other Government docu

13、ments. The following other Government document forms a part of this specification to the extent specified herein. solicitation. Unless otherwise specified, the issues are those cited in the Federal Acquisition Regulation (FAR 52.209) (Copies of the manual may be obtained from the Superintendent of D

14、ocuments, US Government Printing Office, Washington, DC 20402-0001.) 3 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-NIL-C-29427B m 9999906 1992261 709 m MIL-C-29427B(MC) 2.2 Non-Government publications. The following document(s) form a part of thi

15、s document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of the documents which are DoD adopted shall be those listed in the issue of the DODISS cited in the solicitation, Unless otherwise specified, the issues of documents not listed in the DODISS are the issues of the docu

16、ments cited in the solicitation (see 6.2). THE COLOR ASSOCIATION OF THE UNITED STATES Department of Defense Standard Shades For Sewing Threads Department of Defense Standard Shades For Buttons (Applications for copies should be addressed to the Color Association of the United States, 409 W. 44th St.

17、, New York, NY 10016- 0927). AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR TESTINGAND MATERIALS ASTM D 3951 - Standard Practice for Comercial Packaging (Applications for copies should be addressed to the American Societv for Testing and Materials, 1916 Race Street, Philadelphia, PA 19103- a 1187. ) (Non-Government standards

18、 and other publications are normally available from the organizations that prepare or distribute the documents. These documents also may be available in or through libraries or other informational services.) 2.3 Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this document and th

19、e references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained. 3. REQUIREMENTS 3.1 Standard samples. Standard samples, when furnished, are solely for guidance and infor

20、mation to the contractor (see 6.3). Variation from this specification may appear in the sample, in which case the specification shall govern. 3.2 First article. When specified (see 6.2), the contractor shall furnish sample unit(s) for first article inspection and approval (see 4.4 and 6.4). 4 Provid

21、ed by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- - MIL-C-29427B W 9999906 3992262 bV5 = 3.3 Materials 3.3.1 Basic material. The basic material shall be as follows: Class 1. Cloth, polyester/wool gabardine, 10.6 ounce, green shade 2212, conforming to type I

22、I, class 12 of MIL-C-10176 (see 6.3). 3.3.2 Lininq. The material for lining the coats shall be as follows : Class 1. Cloth, rayon, twill, 3.7 ounce, green shade 2209, conforming to class 1 of MIL-C-368. 3.3.3 Bias bindinq. The binding for the underarm shield shall be bias cut from the lining materia

23、l specified in 3.3.2. shall be cut 5/8 to 7/8 inch wide, and shall have sized edges. cloth, wool flannel conforming to A-A-50067. The material shall be dyed a shade to approximate the shade of the basic material specified in 3.3.1. The material shall show good colorfastness to wet (dry) cleaning. Th

24、e acidity (pH) requirement and colorfastness to perspiration and crocking requirements shall not apply. As an alternate, a composite undercollar fabric conforming to MIL-C-29137 may be used in a shade to approximate the shade of the basic material specified in 3.3.1, The binding 3.3.4 Undercollar ma

25、terial. The undercollar material shall be 3.3.5 Collar interlinins material. The collar interlining material for al1 classes shall be cloth, cotton buckram, natural, conforming to type I, of A-A-50186, except that the test for shrinkage shall be in accordance with Method 5580 of FED-STD-191. 3.3.6 P

26、olvester twill. The material for the stays for the simulated breast pocket, armhole seam, and shoulder seam shall be polyester twill cloth, shade black, conforming to class 1 of A-A-52106, except that the seam efficiency and colorfastness requirements for perspiration and crocking shall not apply. T

27、he cloth shall be bias cut for shoulder and armhole stays. 3.3.7 Tape. The cotton tape shall conform to type III, class 1 of DDD-T-86, 1/4 inch wide for reinforcing the folded edge of the simulated pocket welt and armholes for all classes of coats, and 3/8 inch wide for the front edge of all classes

28、 of coats. 3.3.8 Coat fronts. The coat fronts shall be as follows: Class 1. Type XV, of MIL-C-15065, except that the cotton and polyester stays shall be dyed black. 3.3.9 Shoulder pads. The shoulder pads shall conform to type III, class 1 of MIL-P-15064. 5 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproductio

29、n or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-C-27427B W 9999906 1992263 581 = 0 3.3.10 Sleeve head pads. The sleeve head pads shall conform to type IV Of MIL-P-15064. 3.3.11 Fusible interlininss 3.3.11.1 Fusible interlinina for small parts. The fusible interlining for the collar and fu

30、ll front facing, shoulder straps, and top welt shall be nonwoven cloth, conforming to type V, class 1, style B of MIL-C-44296. The color shall be black or charcoal. The fusible shall be Pellon Style 8313, Handler 7208, or equal. The fusing conditions shall be as directed by the supplier or temperatu

31、re 280 to 290F, 140 to 145CE, time 12 to 15 seconds, pressure 4 to 6 psi. 3.3.11.2 Fusible coat fronts. The coat front may be fused using a twill weave woven fusible conforming to type III, class 1 style B of MIL-C-44296, or 100 percent cotton warp, 75 to 90 percent rayon, 10 to 25 percent wool, wit

32、h a weight of 3.5 (minimum) to 4.0 ounces (maximum), and a color of polyamide dot color black or charcoal. The fusible shall be Kufner Style G35, National Style 200FL, Crown Style 241, or equal. The fusing conditions shall be as directed by the supplier or 300 to 310F, 140 to 145O CE, time 12 to 15

33、seconds, pressure 4 to 6 psi. 3.3.12 Hanqer braid. The braid for the coat hanger shall be cotton or rayon tubular flat braid, 1/8 to 3/16 inch wide, with a breaking strength of not less than 50 pounds in the warp direction, and shall conform to type IX, class 1 of MIL-B-371. The color for class 1 sh

34、all closely match shade T-1, Cable No. 66023. 3.3.13 Thread 3.3.13.1 Silk thread. The silk thread shall conform to A-A-50196. The thread for machine sewing shall conform to type I, size A for all outside seaming and stitching; size B and size F for buttonhole, needle and looper threads, respectively

35、; and size O for machine felling. The thread for hand sewing shall be type III, size A, 2-ply. 3.3.13.2 Cotton thread. The cotton thread shall conform to A-A-52094; type III, mercerized finish, ticket No. A, 3-ply for all inside seaming and stitching, overedge stitching, and for belt and belt fasten

36、er buttonholes; type II, glazed finish, ticket No. 24, 4-ply for sewing on buttons; and type I, ticket No. 20, 3-ply for machine tacking armholes. The thread for basting shall be of good commercial grade. As an alternate for cotton thread, a polyester- cotton-covered thread conforming to A-A-50199,

37、ticket No. 50, 2 or 3-ply may be used. The thread for basting shall be good commercial- grade cotton. 3.3.13.3 Nvlon thread. The nylon thread for padding lapels of coats shall conform to type III, size O0 of V-T-295. 6 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without lice

38、nse from IHS-,-,-3.3.13.4 Synthetic thread. A monofilament synthetic thread may be used for those basting operations where the thread is required to be removed, provided the garment is subsequently given a treatment by a dry cleaning agent in which the synthetic thread is soluble. this thread is use

39、d, any residue remaining on the garment after the dry cleaning process shall be brushed off or removed. When 3.3.13.5 Color and colorfastness. The thread shall be dyed shade T-1, Cable No. 66023 (see DoD Standard Color Card of Official Standardized Shades for Sewing Threads). The cotton thread for b

40、asting and for machine tacking armholes may be white. The colored threads, when tested as specified in the applicable thread specification, shall show good colorfastness to wet (dry) cleaning. In addition, the silk thread shall show good colorfastness to light. 3.3.14 Gimp. The buttonhole gimp shall

41、 be cotton, No. 8, soft or glazed finish, conforming to type I or II of A-A-50198. The color of the gimp shall be shade T-1, Cable No. 66023. The gimp shall show good colorfastness to wet (dry) cleaning. 3.3.15 Buttons 3.3.15.1 Class 1. The insignia buttons shall be plastic, black color, conforming

42、to MIL-B-20289, type I, 40-line and type II, 27- line. As an alternate, metal insignia buttons conforming to MIL-B-3461, type II, style 3, class B, subclass 2 may be used. A dull black epoxy finish in lieu of dull black enamel finish is acceptable with prior approval. 3.3.16 Labels. Each coat shall

43、have an identification label and a size label as specified below. The coats are intended to be dry cleaned and the labels shall show colorfastness to dry cleaning. 3.3.16.1 Identification label. The identification label shall conform to type VI, class 1 of DDD-L-20. The content and format shall be a

44、s follows: Nomenclature (item description) Contract number Name of contractor Fiber content 3.3.16.2 Size label. The size label shall conform to type VI, class 2 of DDD-L-20, The inscription on the size label shall conform to MIL-STD-984, Table II, Body Dimensions for Marine Corps, Table III, Height

45、 Ranges , and Figure 2. An examples shall be as-follows: Stock Number: 8410-00-000-0000 Bust Circ: 35 I Hip Circ: Height: 63-1/2 to 67-1/2“ (R) 3 7 - 1 / 2 I (Size Code 8) Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-flIL-C-29q27B 9999906 1992265

46、35q * MIL-C-29427B(MC) Materials Polyester/wool gabardine (class 1) . Pattern parts Front Side front Center back Side back 3.3.16.3 Label/taq. Each item shall be individually bar-coded with the type VIII, class 17 label/tag of DDD-L-20. be located so that it is completely visible on the item when it

47、 is folded and/or packaged as specified and so that itcauses no damage to the item. This label/tag shall 3.4 Desiqn. The coat shall be the US Marine Corps design shown in Figures 1, 2 and 3. It shall be a four-button, single-breasted, semiformfitting, fully-lined coat having a panel-type front, a fo

48、ur- piece back with center vent, simulated breast pocket with outside welt, inside pocket, shoulder straps to button, ornamental sleeve cuffs, rolled collar with worked eyelet in each end for branch of service insignia, and notched lapel. contractor by the Government. to the Government working patte

49、rns. nor the working patterns shall be altered in any way, except that additional notches for using during construction are allowed on the working patterns. allowance for seams at the edge of lapels, front edges of coat, and for shoulder straps; 3/4-inch allowance for side seams; 5/8-inch for center back seams; and 3/8-inch allowance for all other seams, except as otherwise specified in Table II. size, seam allowances, and directiona