ASTM D7022-2013e1 1344 Standard Terminology Relating to Apparel《有关服装的标准术语》.pdf

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1、Designation: D7022 131Standard Terminology Relating toApparel1This standard is issued under the fixed designation D7022; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year oforiginal adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates t

2、he year of last reapproval. Asuperscript epsilon () indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.1NOTETerms were added editorially in September 2014.1. Scope1.1 This standard is the compilation of all terminologydeveloped by Subcommittee D13.61 on Apparel.1.2 This terminology

3、is unique to the Apparel industry.Meanings of the same terms used outside the industry can befound in other compilations or in dictionaries of general usage.1.3 In addition to being a specialized dictionary, D7022 isalso useful for managing the Subcommittees terminology.1.4 Terms listed are under th

4、e jurisdiction of SubcommitteeD13.61.1.5 For definitions of other textile terms see TerminologyD123.2. Referenced Documents2.1 ASTM Standards:2D123 Terminology Relating to TextilesD3135 Specification for Performance of Bonded, Fused, andLaminated Apparel FabricsD3477 Performance Specification for Me

5、ns and Boys Wo-ven Dress Shirt Fabrics (Withdrawn 2005)3D3562 Performance Specification for Woven DrycleanableCoat FabricsD3655 Performance Specification for Mens and WomensSliver Knitted Overcoat and Jacket FabricsD3691 Performance Specification for Woven, Lace, and KnitHousehold Curtain and Draper

6、y FabricsD3778 Specification for Womens and Girls DrycleanableWoven Dress Coat Fabrics (Withdrawn 1999)3D3779 Performance Specification for Womens and GirlsWoven Rainwear and All-Purpose, Water-Repellent CoatFabrics (Withdrawn 2005)3D3780 Performance Specification for Mens and Boys Wo-ven Dress Suit

7、 Fabrics and Woven Sportswear Jacket,Slack, and Trouser FabricsD3781 Performance Specification for Mens and BoysKnit-ted Rainwear and All-Purpose, Water-Repellent Coat Fab-rics (Withdrawn 2005)3D3782 Performance Specification for Mens and BoysKnit-ted Dress Suit Fabrics and Knitted Sportswear Jacket

8、,Slack, and Trouser FabricsD3783 Performance Specification for Woven Flat LiningFabrics for Mens and Boys Apparel (Withdrawn 2011)3D3785 Performance Specification for Woven Necktie andScarf FabricsD3819 Performance Specification for Mens and Boys Wo-ven Pajama Fabrics (Withdrawn 2005)3D3820 Performa

9、nce Specification for Mens and Boys Wo-ven Underwear Fabrics (Withdrawn 2005)3D3887 Specification for Tolerances for Knitted FabricsD3994 Performance Specification for Woven SwimwearFabricsD3995 Performance Specification for Mens and WomensKnitted Career Apparel Fabrics: Dress and VocationalD3996 Pe

10、rformance Specification for Knit Swimwear Fab-ricsD4035 Performance Specification for Knitted Necktie andScarf FabricsD4038 Performance Specification for Womens and GirlsWoven Dress and Blouse Fabrics (Withdrawn 2004)3D4109 Performance Specification for Mens and Boys Wo-ven Coverall, Dungaree, Overa

11、ll, and Shop-Coat Fabrics(Withdrawn 2011)3D4115 Performance Specification for Womens and GirlsKnitted and Woven Dress Glove FabricsD4117 Performance Specification for Womens and GirlsWoven Robe, Negligee, Nightgown, Pajama, Slip, andLingerie Fabrics (Withdrawn 2005)3D4118 Performance Specification f

12、or Womens WovenCoverall, Dungaree, Overall, and Shop Coat FabricsD4119 Performance Specification for Mens and BoysKnit-ted Dress Shirt Fabrics1This terminology is under the jurisdiction ofASTM Committee D13 on Textilesand is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.61 on Apparel.Current edition

13、 approved Oct. 1, 2013. Published October 2013. Originallyapproved in 2004. Last previous edition approved in 2004 as D7022 -041whichwas withdrawn February 2013 and reinstated in October 2013. DOI: 10.1520/D7022-13E01.2For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, orcontact AS

14、TM Customer Service at serviceastm.org. For Annual Book of ASTMStandards volume information, refer to the standards Document Summary page onthe ASTM website.3The last approved version of this historical standard is referenced onwww.astm.org.Copyright ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box

15、 C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959. United States1D4154 Performance Specification for Mens and BoysKnit-ted and Woven Beachwear and Sports Shirt FabricsD4156 Performance Specification for Womens and GirlsKnitted Sportswear FabricsD4231 Practice for Evaluation of Launderable Woven DressShirts an

16、d Sports ShirtsD4232 Performance Specification for Mens and WomensDress and Vocational Career Apparel FabricsD4234 Performance Specification for Womens and GirlsKnitted Robe, Negligee, Nightgown, Pajama, Slip, andLingerie Fabrics (Withdrawn 2005)3D4235 Performance Specification for Womens and GirlsK

17、nitted Blouse and Dress FabricsD4523 Terminology Relating to Feather-Filled and Down-Filled Products (Withdrawn 2002)3D4524 Test Method for Composition of PlumageD4770 Test Method for Appearance and Integrity of High-loft Batting After RefurbishingD6321/D6321M Practice for the Evaluation of MachineW

18、ashable T-ShirtsD6554/D6554M Specification for 100 % Cotton DenimFabricsD7017 Performance Specification for Rainwear and All-Purpose, Water-Repellent Coat FabricsD7268 Performance Specification for Seamless Knit Gar-ments Including Intimates and Swimwear3. Terminologyall-purpose, nan outerwear garme

19、nt, often with a removablelining, which is suitable for use in many different weatherconditions. D7017barb, nin down, the primary structure of plumage emanatingfrom a quill point of a down cluster. D4523barb, nin feathers, the primary structure of plumage ema-nating from the quill of a feather. D452

20、3batting, na textile filling material consisting of a continuousweb of fibers formed by carding, garnetting, air laying, orother means. D4770batting integrity, nthe ability of a textile filling material toresist distortion or change when subjected to multiple homelaunderings or drycleanings. D4770bl

21、ister, nin bonded, fused, or laminated fabrics, a bulge,swelling, or similar surface condition on either the facefabric or the backing fabric characterized by the fabric beingraised from the plane of the underlying component over alimited area to give a puffy appearance. D3135bonded fabric, na layer

22、ed fabric structure wherein a face orshell fabric is joined to a backing fabric, such as tricot, withan adhesive that does not significantly add to the thickness ofthe combined fabrics.DISCUSSIONIn this context, a thin layer of foam is considered anadhesive when the cell structure is completely coll

23、apsed by a flame.D3135bond strength, nof bonded, fused, or laminated fabrics, thetensile force expressed in ounces per 1 in. (25 mm) of width,required to separate the component layers under specifiedconditions. D3135bubblesee preferred term blister. D3135camisolea torso garment that can either be ti

24、ght or loosefitting, can be worn to the midriff, waist or thigh, that hasshoulder straps. D7268DISCUSSIONTraditionally, a camisole is worn under outerwear.career apparel, ngarments, the styling and performance ofwhich are designed for various end uses so as to be suitablefor on-the-job wear in a var

25、iety of businesses and profes-sions. (See also dress career apparel and vocational careerapparel.) D3995, D4232career apparel, ngarments which are manufactured for avariety of end uses and for which performance requirementsvary. D3995DISCUSSIONThe two major end uses for career apparel are dressappar

26、el and vocational apparel. D3995career apparel, ngarments, usually of a specified design, foron the job wear by business or professional employees.D4232career apparel, dress, na category of tailored uniform inwhich abusive wear is not common and in which appearanceis much more important than durabil

27、ity (see also careerapparel, vocational career apparel). D3995career apparel, vocational, na type of garment worn as auniform in which abusive wear is common and durability isgenerally more important than appearance (see also careerapparel, dress career apparel). D3995career dress apparel, ncareer a

28、pparel which is not generallysubject to abusive wear and for which appearance is a moreimportant attribute than durability.DISCUSSIONFabrics for career dress apparel are usually categorizedas heavyweight, mediumweight, or lightweight. The uses of thesefabrics vary with weight as follows:Category Mas

29、s (Weight) Typical End-UsesIHeavy-weight200 g/m2(6.0 oz/yd2) andabovePants, suits, blazer, waiter-typejackets, vests, coveralls, etc.IIMedium-weight150 g/m2(4.5 oz/yd2) andabove, but less than 200g/m2(6.0 oz/yd2)Pants, jackets, dresses, shirtsand blouses, gowns, smocks,lab coats, etc.IIILight-weight

30、Below 150 g/m2(4.5 oz/yd2) Tops (shirts, blouses) anddressesD4232career vocational apparel, ncareer apparel which is gener-ally subject to abusive wear and for which durability is amore important attribute than appearance.DISCUSSIONFabrics for career dress apparel are usually categorizedas heavyweig

31、ht, mediumweight, or lightweight. The uses of thesefabrics vary with weight as follows:Category Mass (Weight) Typical End-UsesI Heavy-weight270 g/m2(8.0 oz/yd2) andabovePants, jackets, lab coats,cover alls, etc.IIMedium-weight150 g/m2(4.5 oz/yd2) andabove, but less than 270g/m2(8.0 oz/yd2)Shirts, sm

32、ocks, aprons, labcoats, nurses dresses, etc.IIILight-weightBelow 150 g/m2(4.5 oz/yd2) Light duty shirts, blouses,dresses, smocks, etc.D7022 1312D4232closed-face fabric, na face or shell fabric of closed construc-tion so that no open-face areas appear. D3135coat, nan outer garment which covers at lea

33、st the upper halfof the body, has sleeves and a front opening, and is usuallyworn over another garment, such as a shirt or dress. D3778crack mark, nCrack marks are usually the result of com-bining tight fabric constructions at least one of which doesnot have sufficient residual stretch to allow the

34、combinedfabrics to be bent in an arc without producing crack marks onthe concave side of the arc. Crack marks also occur whenbonded fabrics are allowed to remain in a creased orwrinkled state before full adhesive cure has taken place.Other causes include the use of excessive adhesive inbonding, or e

35、xcessive foam thicknesses and excessive foamcollapse in flame lamination, sharp break or crease in thesurface contour of either the face fabric or the backing fabricthat becomes evident when the bonded or laminated com-posite is rolled, bent, draped, or folded. D3135crushed feathers, nfeathers and f

36、eather fiber resulting fromcurling, crushing, or chopping feathers without removing thequill. D4523damaged feathers, nfeathers that have been broken, dam-aged by insects, by mildew or rot, or otherwise materiallyinjured. D4523denim, na durable woven twill fabric, usually of all cotton ora blend of c

37、otton and manufactured fibers, made from avariety of yarn numbers, and in various fabric weights,colors, designs, and finishes. D6554/D6554Mdimensional change, nin pressing and finishing of garments,the change in dimensions of a fabric caused by pressing andfinishing during garment manufacture. D356

38、2, D3779,D3781, D3782, D3995, D4119, D4154dimensional change, nin pressing and finishing of textiles,the change in dimensions of a fabric caused by pressing andfinishing during garment manufacture. D3782,D4119,D4154dimensional change in pressing and finishing, nthe changein dimensions undergone by a

39、 fabric subjected to pressingand finishing during garment manufacturing. D3995distortion, nin textile battings, defects such as holes, lumps,or thin areas caused by movement of fibers. D4770down, nthe fine, soft plumage of waterfowl, consisting oflight, fluffy filaments having at least two barbs att

40、ached; thatis, barbs growing from the quill point but without a quillshaft. D4523down fibers, ndetached barbs from down; plumules anddetached barbs from the basal end of waterfowl feather quillshafts that are indistinguishable from the barbs of down.D4523down, nestling, na down not fully developed w

41、ith a sheathand with soft barbs emanating from the sheath. D4523dress career apparel, ncareer apparel which is not generallysubject to abusive wear and for which appearance is a moreimportant attribute than durability. (See also career apparel,vocational career apparel.) D3995, D4232dress glove, na

42、covering for the hand, often extending partway up the arm, worn primarily for formal or dressoccasions. D4115dress shirt, nfor boys, a shirt made with a specific collar sizeor numerical size and designed to be worn with a tie andjacket. D3477, D4231dress shirt, nfor men, a shirt made with a specific

43、 collar sizeand sleeve length where appropriate, and designed to beworn with a tie and jacket. D3477, D4231fabric, sliver knitted, na single-jersey fabric in whichuntwisted staple fibers are knitted in at each loop to form apile surface on the technical back of the jersey structure.D3655feather fibe

44、r, ndetached barbs of feathers which are notjoined or attached to each other. D4523feathers, nthe outgrowth forming the contour and externalcovering of fowl. D4523feathers, crushed, nfeathers and feather fiber resulting fromcurling, crushing, or chopping feathers without removing thequill. D4523feat

45、hers, damaged, nfeathers that have been broken, dam-aged by insects, by mildew or rot, or otherwise materiallyinjured. D4523feathers, landfowl, nSee feathers, nonwaterfowl.feathers, nestling, nimmature feathers in which the barbsare held together and covered by a sheath. D4523feathers, nonwaterfowl,

46、 nfeathers derived from chickens,turkeys, or other landfowl. (Syn. feathers, landfowl.) D4523feathers, quill, nfeathers which are over 100 mm (4 in.) inlength or which have a quill point exceeding 9.5 mm (616 in.)in length. D4523feathers, waterfowl, nfeathers from ducks or geese, or both.D4523fiberf

47、ill, nmanufactured fibers especially engineered as tolinear density, cut length, and crimp for use as a textile fillingmaterial. D4770filling material, nfor feathers or down, the contents of anindustry product containing feathers or down of any kind ortype, with or without natural or synthetic mater

48、ials. D4523foam tear, na condition wherein the foam portion of alaminated fabric ruptures prior to the failure of the bond.D3135fused fabric, na type of bonded fabric made by adhering afusible fabric to another fabric, such as for use as aninterlining. D3135D7022 1313fusible fabric, na utilitarian f

49、abric which has a thermoplasticadhesive applied to one side, usually in a pattern of dots, sothat the surface can be bonded to another fabric surface bythe use of heat and pressure. D3135girdle, nan underwear support garment designed to moldvarious sections of the abdomen and sometimes legs. D7268greige yield, nin knitted fabrics, the number of finishedsquare yards per pound (square meters per kilogram) ofgreige fabric. D3887indigo dyed, adja condition of the yarn after