ASTM D4156-2001 Standard Performance Specification for Womens and Girls Knitted Sportswear Fabrics《妇女和女孩用针织运动服织物的标准性能规范》.pdf

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1、Designation: D 4156 01Standard Performance Specification forWomens and Girls Knitted Sportswear Fabrics1This standard is issued under the fixed designation D 4156; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year oforiginal adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last re

2、vision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. Asuperscript epsilon (e) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.1. Scope1.1 This performance specification covers knitted fabricscomprised of any textile fiber or mixture of fibers, used inwomens and

3、girls sportswear.1.2 These requirements apply to the length and widthdirections for those properties where each fabric direction ispertinent.1.3 This standard does not purport to address all of thesafety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is theresponsibility of the user of this standard

4、to establish appro-priate safety and health practices and determine the applica-bility of regulatory limitations prior to use.2. Referenced Documents2.1 ASTM Standards:2D 123 Terminology Relating to TextilesD 2594 Test Methods for Stretch Properties of KnittedFabrics Having Low PowerD 2724 Test Meth

5、ods for Bonded, Fused, and LaminatedApparel FabricsD 2905 Practice for Statements on Number of Specimensfor TextilesD 3786 Test Method for Hydraulic Bursting Strength ofKnitted Goods and Nonwoven Fabrics: Diaphragm Burst-ing Strength Tester Method3D 3787 Test Method for Bursting Strength of KnittedG

6、oods: Constant-Rate-of-Traverse (CRT), Ball Burst Test32.2 AATCC Methods:48 Colorfastness to Crocking: AATCC Crockmeter Method15 Colorfastness to Perspiration16 Colorfastness to Light23 Colorfastness to Burnt Gas Fumes61 Colorfastness to Washing, Domestic, and Laundering,Commercial: Accelerated116 C

7、olorfastness to Crocking: Rotary Vertical CrockmeterMethod124 1978 Appearance of Durable Press Fabrics after Re-peated Home Launderings132 Colorfastness to Drycleaning135 Dimensional Changes in Automatic Home Launderingof Durable Press Woven or Knit Fabrics172 Colorfastness to Non-chlorine Bleach in

8、 Home Laun-dering188 Colorfastness to Chlorine Bleach in Home LaunderingEvaluation Procedure 1 Gray Scale for Color ChangeEvaluation Procedure 2 Gray Scale for StainingEvaluation Procedure 3 AATCC Chromatic TransferenceScale2.3 Federal Standard:516 CFR, Chapter IIConsumer Product Safety Commis-sion

9、Subchapter DFlammable Fabrics Act Regulations.2.4 Military Standard:6MIL-STD-105D Sampling Procedures and Tables for In-spection by AttributesNOTE 1Reference to test methods in this standard give only thepermanent part of the designation of ASTM, AATCC, or other testmethods. The current editions of

10、each test method cited shall prevail.3. Terminology3.1 Definitions:3.1.1 sheer, na fabric that is transparently thin or diapha-nous.3.1.1.1 DiscussionThere is no clear distinction betweensheer fabrics and nonsheer fabrics. The purchaser and the sellershould agree in advance as to which category a fa

11、bric is to beclassified.3.2 For definitions of other textile terms used in thisspecification, refer to the individual ASTM and AATCC testmethods and to Terminology D 123.4. Specification Requirements4.1 The properties of knitted fabrics for womens and girlssportswear shall conform to the specificati

12、on requirements inTable 1.1This specification is under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee D13 onTextiles and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.61 on Apparel.Current edition approved May 10, 2001. Published July 2001. Originallypublished as D 4156 82. Last previous edition D 4156 95.2F

13、or referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, orcontact ASTM Customer Service at serviceastm.org. For Annual Book of ASTMStandards volume information, refer to the standards Document Summary page onthe ASTM website.3Discontinued; see 1997 Annual Book of ASTM Standards, Vol 07.0

14、2.4Available from the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists,P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709.5Available from Superintendent of Documents, Government Printing Office,Washington, DC 20402.6Available from Standardization Documents Order Desk, Bldg. 4 Section D, 700Robbi

15、ns Ave., Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094, Attn: NPODS.1Copyright ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959, United States.5. Significance and Use5.1 Upon mutual agreement between the purchaser and theseller, fabrics intended for this end use should meet all

16、 of therequirements listed in Table 1 of this specification.5.2 It is recognized that for purposes of fashion or aestheticsthe ultimate consumer of articles made from these fabrics mayfind acceptable fabrics that do not conform to all of therequirements in Table 1. Therefore, one or more of therequi

17、rements listed in Table 1 may be modified by mutualagreement between the purchaser and the seller.5.2.1 In such cases, any references to the specification shallspecify that: “This fabric meets ASTM Specification D 4156except for the following characteristic(s).”5.3 Where no prepurchase agreement has

18、 been reachedbetween the purchaser and the seller, and in case of contro-versy, the requirements listed in Table 1 are intended to be usedas a guide only. As noted in 5.2, ultimate consumer demandsdictate varying performance parameters for any particular styleof fabric.5.4 The uses and significance

19、of particular properties andtest methods are discussed in the appropriate sections of thespecified test methods.6. Sampling6.1 Lot SampleAs a lot sample for acceptance testing,take at random the number of rolls as directed in an applicablespecification or other agreement between the purchaser and th

20、esupplier, such as an agreement to use MIL-STD-105D.6.2 Laboratory SampleFrom each roll or piece in the lotsample, cut two laboratory samples the full width of the fabricand at least 375 mm (15 in.) along the selvage,7. Test Methods (See Note 1)7.1 Bursting StrengthDetermine the bursting strength as

21、directed in Test Methods D 3786 or D 3787 as agreed betweenthe purchaser and the seller.NOTE 2Care should be taken to subtract the tare diaphragm pressurefrom the gross pressure to obtain actual bursting strength of fabric whenusing the diaphragm bursting tester. Calibrate the equipment according to

22、the manufacturers instruction before use. Since there is no overallcorrelation between the results obtained with the CRT machine equippedwith a bursting attachment and the diaphragm bursting tester, these twobursting testers cannot be used interchangeably. In case of controversy,Test Method D 3786 s

23、hall prevail.NOTE 3The precision of the ball burst method using the CRT machineequipped with a bursting attachment and the precision of the diaphragmbursting tester method are being established by Subcommittee D13.59.The methods are accordingly not recommended for acceptance testingunless preceded b

24、y an interlaboratory test in the laboratory of thepurchaser and the laboratory of the seller using randomized replicatespecimens of the type of material to be evaluated.7.2 Dimensional Change:7.2.1 Pressing and Finishing During GarmentManufacturingMark specimen(s) as directed in Section 4.5of AATCC

25、Method 135. Press and finish specimen(s) as agreedupon by the purchaser and the seller with respect to timecycles, temperature, steam, vacuum, and mechanical pressureTABLE 1 Specification RequirementsNOTE 1Class in colorfastness is based on a numerical scale of 5 for negligible color change or color

26、 transfer to 1 for very severe color change orcolor transfer.CharacteristicRequirementsSectionSheer Fabric Nonsheer FabricsBursting strength (ball burst)A133 N (30 lbf), min 222 N (50 lbf), min 7.1Dimensional change:Pressing and finishing 2 % max 2 % max 7.2.1Laundering (see 7.2.2.2) 3 % max 3 % max

27、 7.2.2Drycleaning 3 % max 3 % max 7.2.3Colorfastness:Burnt gas fumes, 2 cycles: 7.3.1Shade change, original Class 4Bmin Class 4BminShade change, after laundering or one drycleaning Class 4Bmin Class 4BminLaundering: 7.3.2Shade changeStainingClass 4BminClass 3CminClass 4BminClass 3CminDrycleaning: 7.

28、3.3Shade change Class 4Bmin Class 4BminCrocking: 7.3.4DryWetClass 4DminClass 3DminClass 4DminClass 3DminPerspiration 7.3.5Shade changeStainingClass 4BminClass 3CminClass 4BminClass 3CminLight (40AATCC FU) (xenon-arc) Step 4Bmin Step 4Bmin 7.3.6Chlorine Bleach Class 4B, min Class 4B, min 7.3.7Non-chl

29、orine Bleach Class 4B, min Class 4B, min 7.3.8Fabric appearance (see 7.4.1.1) DP 3.5 min DP 3.5 min 7.4Flammability pass pass 7.5AThere is more than one standard method that can be used to measure bursting strength, and lightfastness. These methods cannot be used interchangeably since theremay be no

30、 overall correlation between them (see Note 2, Note 3, and Note 8).BAATCC Gray Scale for Color Change.CAATCC Gray Scale for Staining.DAATCC Chromatic Transference Scale.D4156012of the press head. Measure the specimen(s) and calculate thedimensional change as directed in Sections 6 and 7 of AATCCMeth

31、od 135 (see Note 4).7.2.1.1 If no agreement has been made between the pur-chaser and the seller, press the specimen(s) using a flat-bedsteam press according to the cycle in 10.1.4 through 10.1.4.5 ofTest Methods D 2724.NOTE 4No standard method is available for reproducing on a labo-ratory level the

32、results of industrial pressing or finishing treatments usedin the manufacture of sportswear from knitted fabrics.77.2.2 LaunderingDetermine the maximum dimensionalchange after five launderings or as agreed between the pur-chaser and the seller as directed in the applicable procedure inAATCC Method 1

33、35 (see Note 5 and Note 6).7.2.2.1 The wash conditions and drying procedure shall beas specified by the seller.7.2.2.2 When the dimensional change after five launderingsexceeds 3 %, determine the stretch of the fabric after fivelaunderings as directed in Test Methods D 2594 using 2.2-N(0.5-lbf) load

34、. If the difference between the percent stretch ofthe laundered fabric and the percent shrinkage due to launder-ing does not exceed 3 % shrinkage then the fabric meets thespecification requirement in Table 1.7.2.3 DrycleaningDetermine the maximum dimensionalchange after three drycleanings or as agre

35、ed between thepurchaser and the seller in accordance with Sections 10.1.1through 10.1.5 of Test Methods D 2724 (Notes 5 and 6 ).NOTE 5Launderable fabrics are expected to be drycleanable exceptwhere all or part of the fabric is not drycleanable and is so labeled. Forexample, the fabric could contain

36、a functional finish soluble in the solvent,or the fiber could be degraded by the solvent, which would be the casewith poly(vinyl chloride) fiber. “Drycleanable” goods are to be drycleanedonly.NOTE 6Specimens prepared for 7.2.1 may be used for 7.2.2 and 7.2.3as desired. When this is done the dimensio

37、nal change due to laundering ordrycleaning is calculated using Eq 1. The dimensional change to pressingand finishing is determined on the fabric as it will reach the user. It is notadditive to the dimensional change to laundering or drycleaning of thefabric as it will reach the consumer (see 6.1).Pe

38、rcent Dimensional Change 5 100 D12 D2!/D2(1)where:D1= measurement after laundering or drycleaning, andD2= measurement after pressing and finishing.7.3 Colorfastness:7.3.1 Burnt Gas FumesDetermine the colorfastness toburnt gas fumes on the original fabric and after one launderingor one drycleaning as

39、 directed in AATCC Method 23 after 2cycles.NOTE 7Washing conditions shall be the same as those used in 7.2.2.1.Drycleaning conditions shall be the same as those used in 7.2.3.7.3.2 LaunderingDetermine the colorfastness to launder-ing as directed in the applicable procedure of AATCCMethod 61. The tes

40、t conditions shall be as specified by theseller (see Note 6).7.3.3 DrycleaningDetermine colorfastness to drycleaningas directed in AATCC Method 132 (see Note 6).7.3.4 CrockingDetermine colorfastness to dry and wetcrocking as directed in AATCC Method 8 for solid shades andAATCC Method 116 for prints

41、or as agreed between thepurchaser and the seller.7.3.5 PerspirationDetermine colorfastness to perspirationas directed in AATCC Method 15.7.3.6 LightDetermine colorfastness to light as directed inAATCC Method 16.NOTE 8There are distinct differences in spectral distribution betweenthe various types of

42、 machines listed in AATCC Method 16, with no overallcorrelations between them. Consequently, these machines cannot be usedinterchangeably. In case of controversy, results obtained with the WaterCooled Xenon Arc machine listed in Option E shall prevail.7.3.7 Colorfastness to Chlorine BleachDetermine

43、color-fastness to light as directed in AATCC Method 16.7.3.8 Colorfastness to Non-chlorine BleachDeterminecolorfastness to light as directed in AATCC Method 16.7.4 Fabric AppearanceDetermine the fabric appearanceas directed in AATCC Method 124 after laundering using thewash-and-wear cycle or the nor

44、mal cycle as agreed betweenthe purchaser and the seller as specified in 7.2.1.1 for washablefabrics, or after drycleaning as specified in 7.2.2 for dryclean-able fabrics (see Note 4).7.4.1 For fabrics not intended for use in durable pressgarments determine the fabric smoothness after pressing asspec

45、ified in Section 10.2.5 of Test Methods D 2724.7.4.1.1 The fabric smoothness durable press (DP) rating ofsuch fabrics, and the DP rating of drycleaning fabrics shallhave decreased no more than12 DP rating from that of thefabric before it is laundered or drycleaned.7.5 FlammabilityThe flammability re

46、quirements shall beas agreed between the purchaser and the seller, provided theymeet or exceed those of Part 1610 of the Flammable FabricsAct Regulations.8. Keywords8.1 sportswearASTM International takes no position respecting the validity of any patent rights asserted in connection with any item me

47、ntionedin this standard. Users of this standard are expressly advised that determination of the validity of any such patent rights, and the riskof infringement of such rights, are entirely their own responsibility.This standard is subject to revision at any time by the responsible technical committe

48、e and must be reviewed every five years andif not revised, either reapproved or withdrawn. Your comments are invited either for revision of this standard or for additional standardsand should be addressed to ASTM International Headquarters. Your comments will receive careful consideration at a meeti

49、ng of theresponsible technical committee, which you may attend. If you feel that your comments have not received a fair hearing you shouldmake your views known to the ASTM Committee on Standards, at the address shown below.7The development of a standard method has been referred to SubcommitteeD13.59 on Fabric Test Methods, General.D4156013This standard is copyrighted by ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959,United States. Individual reprints (single or multiple copies) of this standard may be o