ASTM D3994-2014 Standard Performance Specification for Woven Swimwear Fabrics《机织游泳衣织物的标准性能规格》.pdf

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1、Designation: D3994 131D3994 14Standard Performance Specification forWoven Swimwear Fabrics1This standard is issued under the fixed designation D3994; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year oforiginal adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A numb

2、er in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. Asuperscript epsilon () indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.1 NOTESection 3 was updated editorially in September 2013.1. Scope1.1 This performance specification covers woven fabrics for use in mens, womens and c

3、hildrens swimwear, composed of anytextile fiber or mixture of textile fibers.1.2 These requirements apply to the length and width directions for those properties where fabric direction is pertinent.1.3 The following safety hazards caveat pertains only to the test method described in this specificati

4、on: This standard does notpurport to address all of the safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the user of this standard toestablish appropriate safety and health practices and determine the applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use.2. Referenced Doc

5、uments2.1 ASTM Standards:2D123 Terminology Relating to TextilesD434 Test Method for Resistance to Slippage of Yarns in Woven Fabrics Using a Standard Seam (Withdrawn 2003)3D1424 Test Method for Tearing Strength of Fabrics by Falling-Pendulum (Elmendorf-Type) ApparatusD2261 Test Method for Tearing St

6、rength of Fabrics by the Tongue (Single Rip) Procedure (Constant-Rate-of-Extension TensileTesting Machine)D2622 Test Method for Sulfur in Petroleum Products by Wavelength Dispersive X-ray Fluorescence SpectrometryD2905 Practice for Statements on Number of Specimens for Textiles (Withdrawn 2008)3D503

7、4 Test Method for Breaking Strength and Elongation of Textile Fabrics (Grab Test)D7022 Terminology Relating to Apparel32.2 AATCC Test Methods:48 Colorfastness to Crocking: Crockmeter Method15 Colorfastness to Perspirationn16.3 Colorfastness to Light23 Colorfastness to Burnt Gas Fumes61 Colorfastness

8、 to Laundering: Accelerated106 Colorfastness to Water: Sea107 Colorfastness to Water116 Colorfastness to Crocking: Rotary Vertical Crockmeter Method129 Colorfastness to Ozone in the Atmosphere Under High Humidities135 Dimensional Changes of Fabrics After Home Laundering162 Colorfastness to Water: Ch

9、lorinated Pool172 Colorfastness to Powdered Non-Chlorine Bleach in Home Laundering188 Colorfastness to Chlorine Bleach in Home LaunderingEvaluation Procedure No. 1 Gray Scale for Color ChangeEvaluation Procedure No. 2 Gray Scale for Staining1 This performance specification is under the jurisdiction

10、of ASTM Committee D13 on Textiles and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.61 on Apparel.Current edition approved July 1, 2013March 15, 2014. Published August 2013April 2014. Originally approved in 1981. Last previous edition approved in 20082013 asD3994 02D3994 131(2008) DOI: 10.1520/D3

11、994-13E01.10.1520/D3994-14.2 For referencedASTM standards, visit theASTM website, www.astm.org, or contactASTM Customer Service at serviceastm.org. For Annual Book of ASTM Standardsvolume information, refer to the standards Document Summary page on the ASTM website.3 The last approved version of thi

12、s historical standard is referenced on www.astm.org.4 Available from American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC), P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709, http:/www.aatcc.org.This document is not an ASTM standard and is intended only to provide the user of an ASTM standar

13、d an indication of what changes have been made to the previous version. Becauseit may not be technically possible to adequately depict all changes accurately, ASTM recommends that users consult prior editions as appropriate. In all cases only the current versionof the standard as published by ASTM i

14、s to be considered the official document.Copyright ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959. United States1Evaluation Procedure No. 8 AATCC 9-Step Chromatic Transference Scale2.3 Federal Standard:16 CFR 1610 Standard for Flammability of Clothing Textil

15、es516 CFR, Chapter IIConsumer Product Safety Commission, Subchapter DFlammable Fabrics Act Regulations52.4 Military Standard:MIL-STD-105D Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes6NOTE 1Reference to test methods in this standard give only the permanent part of the designation of AS

16、TM, AATCC, or other test methods. Thecurrent editions of each test method cited shall prevail.3. Terminology3.1 For all terminology related to Apparel see Terminology D7022.3.1.1 The following terms are relevant to this standard: swimwear.3.2 For terms relating to chemical or colorfastness testing,

17、refer to specific AATCC methods. For definitions of all other textileterms see Terminology D123.4. Specification Requirements4.1 The properties of fabrics for woven swimwear shall conform to the specification requirements in Table 1.5. Significance and Use5.1 Upon mutual agreement between the purcha

18、ser and the supplier, woven fabrics intended for this end use should meet allof the requirements listed in Table 1 of this specification.5.2 It is recognized that for purposes of fashion or aesthetics the ultimate consumer of articles made from these fabrics may findacceptable fabrics that do not co

19、nform to all of the requirements in Table 1. Therefore, one or more of the requirements listed inTable 1 may be modified by mutual agreement between the purchaser and the supplier.5.2.1 In such cases, any references to the specification shall specify that: “This fabric meetsASTM Specification D3994,

20、 exceptfor the following characteristic(s).”5.3 Where no prepurchase agreement has been reached between the purchaser and the supplier, and in case of controversy, therequirements listed in Table 1 are intended to be used as a guide only.As noted in 5.2, ultimate consumer demands dictate varyingperf

21、ormance parameters for any particular style of fabric.5.4 The significance and use of particular properties and test methods are discussed in the appropriate sections of the specifiedtest methods.6. Sampling6.1 Acceptance Testing LotUnless there is prior agreement consider as a lot for acceptance te

22、sting all material of a single itemreceived as a single shipment.6.2 Lot SampleAs a lot sample for acceptance testing, take at random the number of rolls as directed in an applicablespecification or other agreement between the purchaser and the seller, such as an agreement to use MIL-STD-105D.6.3 La

23、boratory SampleFrom each roll or piece in the lot sample, cut two laboratory samples the full width of the fabric andat least 375 mm (15 in.) along the selvage.6.4 Test Specimens Take the number of specimens directed in each of the applicable test methods. Perform the tests on thefabric as it will r

24、each the customer. Any “partially finished” or “post-finish” fabrics should be processed in accordance with thefabric manufacturers instructions.6.5 If the applicable test method does not specify the number of specimens, use the procedures in Practice D2905 to determinethe number of specimens per la

25、boratory sampling unit. Use (1) a reliable estimate of the variability of individual observations onsimilar materials in the users laboratory, (2) a 95 % probability level, and (3) an allowable difference of 5 % of the averagebetween the test results on laboratory sampling units and the average for

26、the laboratory sampling unit. The average for a laboratorysampling unit is the average that would be obtained by applying the test method to all of the potential specimens from thatlaboratory sampling unit.7. Test Methods7.1 Breaking Force Determine the dry breaking force, in the standard atmosphere

27、 for testing textiles, as directed in TestMethod D5034, using a constant rate of traverse (CRT) tensile testing machine with the speed of the pulling clamp at 300 + 10mm (12 + 0.5 in.)/min.5 Available from Superintendent of Documents, U.S. Government Printing Office, Washington, DC 20402.6 Available

28、 from Standardization Documents Order Desk, Bldg. 4 Section D, 700 Robbins Ave., Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094, Attn: NPODS.D3994 142NOTE 2Fabrics that include fibers which are known to lose strength when wet, such as rayon, should be tested for wet breaking strength, also.NOTE 3If preferred, the use

29、of a constant-rate-of-extension (CRE) testing machine is permitted. The crosshead speed should be as agreed betweenthe purchaser and the supplier. There may be no overall correlation between the results obtained with the CRT and the CRE machines. Consequently thesetwo breaking load testers cannot be

30、 used interchangeably. In case of controversy, the CRT machine shall prevail.7.2 Resistance to Yarn SlippageDetermine the resistance to yarn slippage as directed in Test Method D434.NOTE 4The precision of Test Method D434 has not been established, and it may not be suitable for fabrics with low yarn

31、 counts in terms of thenumber of ends and picks per inch.7.3 Tear Strength Determine the tear strength in the nonstretch direction as directed in Test Method D1424.NOTE 5If preferred, the use of Test Methods D2261 or D2622 is permitted with existing requirements as given in this standard. There may

32、be noTABLE 1 Specification RequirementsNOTE 1ClassGrade in a, b, and c is based on a numerical scale of 5 for negligible or no color change or color transfer to 1 for very severe color changeor color transfer.Characteristic Requirements SectionBreaking strength (load)A (CRT): 7.1Nonstretch fabrics 1

33、33 N (30 lbf), minStretch fabrics 89 N (20 lbf), min 40 % or greaterelongationYarn slippage14-in. (6-mm) separation 89 N (20 lbf), min 7.2Tear strength (nonstretch direction) 6.7 N (1.5 lbf), min 7.3Dimensional change:Laundering 3 %, max 7.4.1Colorfastness:Burnt gas fumes1 cycle 7.5.1Shade change, o

34、riginalfabric and after 1 laundering Class 4B , minfabric and after 1 laundering Grade 4B , minSodium Hypochlorite Bleach Class 4B , min 7.5.10Sodium Hypochlorite Bleach Grade 4B , min 7.5.10Powdered Non-Chlorine Bleach Class 4B , min 7.5.11Powdered Non-Chlorine Bleach Grade 4B , min 7.5.11Launderin

35、gE 7.5.2Shade change Class 4B , minShade change Grade 4B , minStaining Class 4C , minStaining Grade 4C , minCrockingE 7.5.3Dry Class 4D , minDry Grade 4D , minWet Class 4D , minWet Grade 4D , minWaterE 7.5.4Shade change Class 4B , minShade change Grade 4B , minStaining Class 4C , minStaining Grade 4

36、C , minChlorinated Pool Class 4B 7.5.5Chlorinated Pool Grade 4B 7.5.5PerspirationE 7.5.6Shade change Class 4BShade change Grade 4BStaining Class 4CStaining Grade 4CSea waterE 7.5.7Shade change Class 4B , minShade change Grade 4B , minStaining Class 4C , minStaining Grade 4C , minOzoneShade change Cl

37、ass 34B , minShade change Grade 34B , minLight (20 AATCC FU) (xenon-arc) Step 4B , min 7.5.9Light (20 AATCC FU) (xenon-arc) Grade 4B , min 7.5.9Flammability Class 1 or Class 2 7.6Flammability Grade 1 or Grade 2 7.6A See Note 2.B AATCC Gray Scale for Color Change.C AATCC Gray Scale for Staining.D AAT

38、CC 9-Step Chromatic Transference Scale.E See Note 7.D3994 143overall correlation between the results obtained by the tongue tear method and the Elmendorf method. Consequently these two tear testers cannot be usedinterchangeably. In case of controversy, Test Method D1424 shall prevail.7.4 Dimensional

39、 Change:7.4.1 LaunderingDetermine the maximum dimensional change after five launderings as directed in the applicable procedurein AATCC 135 or as agreed between the purchaser and supplier.7.4.1.1 The wash conditions and drying procedure shall be as agreed between the purchaser and the supplier.7.5 C

40、olorfastness:7.5.1 Burnt Gas Fumes Determine the colorfastness to burnt gas fumes on the original fabric and after one laundering asdirected in AATCC Test Method 23.NOTE 6Washing conditions shall be the same as those used in 7.4.1.1.7.5.2 LaunderingDetermine the colorfastness to laundering as direct

41、ed in the applicable procedure of AATCC Test Method61. The test conditions shall be agreed between the purchaser and the supplier.NOTE 7It has been reported that the results for staining, obtained by standard AATCC Test Methods, on fabrics dyed to dark shades that contain acombination of polyester a

42、nd spandex, or their blends, may not show the full staining propensity of such fabrics in consumer use. It is, therefore,recommended that the staining results obtained by these tests not be used for acceptance testing of such fabrics.7.5.3 Colorfastness to CrockingDetermine the colorfastness to dry

43、and wet crocking as directed inAATCC Test Method 8 forsolid shades and AATCC Test Method 116 for prints or as agreed between the purchaser and the supplier.supplier (see Note 7).7.5.4 Colorfastness to WaterDetermine the colorfastness to water as directed in AATCC Test Method 107.107 (see Note 7).7.5

44、.5 Colorfastness to Water-Chlorinated PoolDetermine the colorfastness as directed in AATCC Test Method 162.7.5.6 Colorfastness to PerspirationDetermine the colorfastness to perspiration as directed inAATCC Test Method 15.15 (seeNote 7).7.5.7 Colorfastness to Sea WaterDetermine the colorfastness to s

45、ea water as directed in AATCC Test Method 106.106 (seeNote 7).7.5.8 Colorfastness to OzoneDetermine the colorfastness to ozone as directed in AATCC Test Method 129.7.5.9 Colorfastness to LightDetermine the colorfastness to light as directed in AATCC Test Method 16.3.NOTE 8There are distinct differen

46、ces in spectral distribution between the various types of machines listed in AATCC Test Method 16.3, with nooverall correlations between them. Consequently, these machines cannot be used interchangeably. In case of controversy, results obtained with the WaterCooled Xenon Arc machine listed in Option

47、 3 shall prevail.7.5.10 Colorfastness to Sodium Hypochlorite BleachDetermine the colorfastness to chlorine bleach as directed in AATCCTest Method 188.7.5.11 Colorfastness to Powdered Non-Chlorine BleachDetermine the colorfastness to non-chlorine bleach as directed inAATCC Test Method 172.7.6 Flammab

48、ility The flammability requirements shall be as agreed between the purchaser and the supplier, provided theymeet or exceed those of Part 1610 of the Flammable Fabric Act Regulations.8. Keywords8.1 fabric; performance; specification; swimwearASTM International takes no position respecting the validit

49、y of any patent rights asserted in connection with any item mentionedin this standard. Users of this standard are expressly advised that determination of the validity of any such patent rights, and the riskof infringement of such rights, are entirely their own responsibility.This standard is subject to revision at any time by the responsible technical committee and must be reviewed every five years andif not revised, either reapproved or withdrawn.Your comments are invited either for revision of this standard or for additional sta