ASTM D1683 D1683M-2017e1 Standard Test Method for Failure in Sewn Seams of Woven Fabrics《梭织服装织物线缝强度标准测试方法》.pdf

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1、Designation: D1683/D1683M 171Standard Test Method forFailure in Sewn Seams of Woven Fabrics1This standard is issued under the fixed designation D1683/D1683M; the number immediately following the designation indicates theyear of original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision

2、. A number in parentheses indicates the year of lastreapproval. A superscript epsilon () indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.This standard has been approved for use by agencies of the U.S. Department of Defense.1NOTEIn Table 1, the second and third column headings wer

3、e corrected from “Fabric Mass: .” to “Fabric Mass:.” in September 2017.INTRODUCTIONThe structural integrity of textile products made of woven fabrics is dependent on how well thepieces that are cut from rolls of fabric have been joined together. To measure this integrity requiresunderstanding the in

4、ter-relationship between two distinct test methods.(a) The first evaluation is done by testing fabric using Test Method D5034. This standard is used to measure the resistance ofa woven fabric to rupture in the warp direction and, the filling yarn direction. The test method measures the force needed

5、to rupturethe fabric causing the destruction of the fabric and the loss of its structural integrity. This loss of structural integrity causes yarnslippage, that is, the displacement and change of yarn spacing causing an irreversible fabric failure.(b) Before completing the second evaluation, an anal

6、ysis and determination of the anticipated failure mode needs to becompleted by the fabric weaver or textile product manufacturer. While the failure mode for a woven fabric textile product sewnseam can demonstrate various and distinct levels, it is imperative to have agreement and understanding about

7、 the expectedperformance or service life of the end use product. Is the seam engineering used to build the textile product intended to performfor a “single incident” discarded and replaced, or is the end use product designed and engineered to be subjected to regular careand maintenance to include re

8、pairs?(c) The second evaluation is done by using this test method, D1683/D1683M, to test fabric sections that have been cut and thensewn together using procedures that select a specific combination of sewing thread, stitch type, seam type, and stitch density. Theseare the seam engineering variables

9、that determine which of the following outcomes can occur: (1) the fabric, at a force similar tothat when tested using Test Method D5034, will rupture adjacent to the stitch line causing the destruction and loss of fabricintegrity, and the failure of the textile structure; (2) the sewing thread used

10、in the specific stitch configuration will rupture, at a forceless than 85 % of the fabric break strength, such that the fabric integrity will be sufficient to enable repair of the textile structurealong the same axis.1. Scope1.1 This test method measures the sewn seam strength inwoven fabrics by app

11、lying a force perpendicular to the sewnseams.1.1.1 The axis perpendicular to the sewn seam can representeither the warp yarn axis or filling yarn axis, the same axistested when using grab Test Method D5034.1.1.1.1 This test method is applicable to sewn seams ob-tained from a previously sewn article

12、or seams sewn withfabric samples using one of two specific seam assemblies asshown in Table 1.1.2 This test method is used when the maximum breakingforce measurement to rupture of a woven fabric sewn seam isrequired.1.2.1 This test method is used when the seam efficiencymeasurement of a woven fabric

13、 sewn seam is required.1.2.2 This test method is used to identify the sewn seamstrength threshold at which the failure of the stitching occurs,without damage to the fabric, so that the textile product can berepaired.1.2.3 This test method is used to identify the force at whichseam strength results i

14、n slippage and displacement of warpyarns, filling yarns, or any combination of these yarns.1.3 This test method does not predict actual wear perfor-mance of a seam.1.4 The values stated in either SI units or inch-pound unitsare to be regarded separately as standard. The values stated ineach system m

15、ay not be exact equivalents; therefore, each1This test method is under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee D13 on Textilesand is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.54 on Subassemblies.Current edition approved March 1, 2017. Published April 2017. Originallyapproved in 1990. Last previous ed

16、ition approved in 2016 as D168316. DOI:10.1520/D1683_D1683M-17.Copyright ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959. United StatesThis international standard was developed in accordance with internationally recognized principles on standardization establ

17、ished in the Decision on Principles for theDevelopment of International Standards, Guides and Recommendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.1system shall be used independently of the other. Combiningvalues from the two systems may result in non-co

18、nformancewith the standard.1.5 This standard does not purport to address all of thesafety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is theresponsibility of the user of this standard to establish appro-priate safety and health practices and determine the applica-bility of regulatory limitations p

19、rior to use.1.6 This international standard was developed in accor-dance with internationally recognized principles on standard-ization established in the Decision on Principles for theDevelopment of International Standards, Guides and Recom-mendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technica

20、lBarriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.2. Referenced Documents2.1 ASTM Standards:2D76 Specification for Tensile Testing Machines for TextilesD123 Terminology Relating to TextilesD1776 Practice for Conditioning and Testing TextilesD5034 Test Method for Breaking Strength and Elongation ofTextile Fabrics (

21、Grab Test)D6193 Practice for Stitches and SeamsD7722 Terminology Relating to Industrial Textile Stitchesand Seams2For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, orcontact ASTM Customer Service at serviceastm.org. For Annual Book of ASTMStandards volume information, refer to the

22、 standards Document Summary page onthe ASTM website.TABLE 1 Standard/Default Seam Assembly SpecificationAFabric Mass: # 4 oz/yd2130 g/m2Procedure A Procedure BMass up to 4 oz/yd2130 g m2 up to 4 oz/yd2130 g m2Seam allowance 13 mm 0.5 in. 13 mm 0.5 in.Needle:Size Metric 90 0.036 in. Metric 90 0.036 i

23、n.Finish chrome chromePoint thin ball (No. 1/No. 23) thin ball (No. 1/No. 23)Sewing thread size:Spun Polyester Tex 40 Tex 40Polyester-Core Tex 40 Tex 40Seam Type Ssa-1 Ssa-1Stitch Type 301 401Stitch Density 4.7 12 stitches per centimetre 4.7 12 stitches per centimetre12 12 stitches per inch 12 12 st

24、itches per inchFabric Mass: 4 oz/yd2130 g/m2 # 8 oz/yd2270 g/m2Procedure A Procedure BMass 4 oz/yd2130 g/m2 up to 8 oz/yd2270 g/m24 oz/yd2130 g/m2upto270g/m28 oz/yd2Seam Allowance 13 mm 0.5 in. 13 mm 0.5 in.Needle:Size Metric 110 0.044 in. Metric 110 0.044 in.Finish chrome chromePoint ball ballSewin

25、g Thread:Spun Polyester Tex 60 Tex 60Polyester-Core Tex 60 Tex 60Seam type SSa-1 SSa-1Stitch type 301 401Stitch density 3.1 12 stitches per centimetre 3.1 12 stitches per centimetre8 12 stitches per inch 8.5 12 stitches per inchFabric Mass: 8 oz/yd2270 g/m2 # 12 oz/yd2405 g/m2Mass 8 oz/yd2270 g/m2up

26、to12oz/yd2405 g/m2 8 oz/yd2270 g/m2upto12oz/yd2405 g/m2Seam allowance 13 mm 0.5 in. 13 mm 0.5 in.Needle:Size Metric 120 Metric 120Finish chrome chromePoint ball ballSewing thread size:Spun Polyester Tex 80 Tex 80Polyester-Core Tex 80 Tex 80Seam type Ssa-1 SSa-1Stitch type 301 401Stitch density 3.1 1

27、2 stitches per centimetre 3.1 12 stitches per centimetre8 12 stitches per inch 8.5 12 stitches per inchAA complete description of seam types and stitch types can be found in Practice D6193.NOTE 1When the performance of a woven textile structure requires data to indicate the maximum seam strength tha

28、t will result in the failure of fabricon either side of seam, the standard seam can be changed to use the Lapped seam type construction with two or more rows of stitching: Lsc-2; Lsc-3;Lsc-4; and the maximum number of stitches per inch that can be used. (See Practice D6193.)D1683/D1683M 1712E177 Pra

29、ctice for Use of the Terms Precision and Bias inASTM Test MethodsE691 Practice for Conducting an Interlaboratory Study toDetermine the Precision of a Test Method3. Terminology3.1 Definitions:3.2 The following terms are relevant to this standard: needledamage; seam allowance; seam assembly; seam effi

30、ciency;seam engineering; seam failure; seam slippage; seam type;sewn seam; sewn seam strength; slippage; standard seam;stitch; stitch density; stitch gage; stitch type; yarn slippage.3.3 For terminology related to seams and stitched, seeTerminology D7722.3.4 For definitions of other textile terms us

31、ed in this testmethod, refer to Terminology D123.4. Summary of Test Method4.1 Sewn fabric sections are placed in a test machine so thatan applied force, perpendicular to the stitching, can be exerteduntil one of the following phenomena occur:4.1.1 Failure of sewing thread stitchline without damage t

32、ofabric (sewn seam strength) (seam efficiency).4.1.2 Failure caused by a force sufficient to stress the sewnseam and displace one or more fabric yarns from their originalposition so as to cause fabric failure due to difference inalignment, spacing, or both.5. Significance and Use5.1 The manufacturin

33、g of textile products uses seam engi-neering to determine the best combination of sewing thread,stitch type, seam type, and stitch density to construct the enduse structure. These four seam engineering variables contributeto a textile product being able to achieve the maximum sewnseam strength perfo

34、rmance and structural integrity when cutpieces of fabric are joined together.5.1.1 It is known that for some textile structures the seamengineering variables are selected to meet a “one time perfor-mance requirement.” This means that following the “singleincident” during which the maximum performanc

35、e potential orcapability of the textile structure has been met, it is expected tobe discarded and replaced with another “new” unit. Forexample: an inflatable restraint in an automobile. Oncedeployed, it must be replaced; it cannot be re-used. Likewise,there are other textile structures, intended to

36、be used multipletimes, while also being subjected to various care and mainte-nance regimens.5.1.2 This test method enables the fabric producer of wovenfabrics, the textile producer, and other users of the test methodto determine which seam engineering choices can be maderelative to: sewing thread te

37、x size; seam type; stitch type; andstitch density to determine the potential outcomes that canoccur when a particular woven fabric is used:(a) What is the maximum force at which sewn seamstrength failure will enable products made with this fabric to berepaired?(b) What is the highest seam efficiency

38、 percentage at-tained?(c) What is the maximum force at which the sewn seamstrength results in seam slippage that can cause yarn slippage,yarn displacement and fabric failure?5.1.2.1 The maximum force at which sewn seam strength orthe highest seam efficiency retained demonstrate failure of thestitchi

39、ng without causing the displacement of one or morefabric yarns from their original position mean that the productcan be repaired. When the failure results in displacement ofyarns, the textile product will need to be replaced.5.1.3 The procedures used in this test method represent twoprimary seam eng

40、ineering techniques identified in PracticeD6193 and used to manufacture products made of woventextile fabrics.5.1.4 In case of dispute arising from differences in reportedtest results when using this test method for acceptance testingof commercial shipments, the purchaser and the suppliershould perf

41、orm comparative tests to determine if there is astatistical bias between their laboratories. Competent statisticalassistance is recommended for the investigation of bias. As aminimum, the two parties should take a group of test speci-mens from the same lot of fabric to be evaluated, which utilizea l

42、ike seam assembly (or standard seam assembly). The testspecimens should then be randomly assigned in equal numbersto each laboratory for testing. If a bias is found, either its causemust be determined and corrected, or the purchaser andsupplier must agree to interpret future test results in light of

43、 theknown bias.5.2 This test method can be used to determine the sewnseam strength and sewn seam efficiency of a specified seamassembly with each fabric. Because sewn seam strength andsewn seam efficiency varies with each fabric, both of thestandard seam assemblies, noted in Table 1, should be usedw

44、hen comparing the seam strength of different fabrics. Table 1lists the default seam assembly specifications to be used forfabrics made with fine, medium and heavy count yarns. If adetermination cannot be made as to which seam is the bestsuited for a particular fabric, all should be evaluated.5.3 Sea

45、ms prepared for this test method should be made bycompetent factory sewing operators familiar with the potentialfor damage to the integrity of the sewn seam when stitching isimproperly done.5.3.1 If competent factory sewing operators are notaccessible, a laboratory technician familiar with the poten

46、tialfor damage of an improperly sewn seam may prepare theseamed test specimens. It is imperative for purchaser/supplierto understand the impact an improperly sewn seam will haveon test results.5.4 This test method is applicable whenever a determinationof sewn seam strength is required. The breaking

47、force of theseam and fabric will permit estimation of seam efficiency. Thistest method can be used as an aid for estimating seam strengthfor any given fabric.5.5 Seam engineering techniques for specific fabric typescan also be determined by utilizing this test method.5.6 This test method can be used

48、 to determine when thesewn seam is affected by seam slippage. While the ultimateconsequence of this phenomenon is rupture, seam slippageD1683/D1683M 1713greater than either the values stated in customer specifications,or as agreed upon by purchaser/supplier may severely reducethe integrity such that

49、 the product cannot be used for itsintended purpose.6. Apparatus6.1 Tensile Testing Machine, as used in Test Method D5034conforming to Specification D76, and preferably a constant-rate-of-extension (CRE) type of machine capable of jawseparation rate of 305 6 10 mm/min 12.0 6 0.5 in./min andan interfaced computer response to record the force-extensioncurve. When a CRE type of machine is not used, a constant-rate-of traverse (CRT) type of machine may be used. (See Note1.)NOTE 1In cases of