ASTM D1683 D1683M-2017 Standard Test Method for Failure in Sewn Seams of Woven Fabrics《梭织服装织物线缝强度标准测试方法》.pdf

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1、Designation: D1683/D1683M 17Standard Test Method forFailure in Sewn Seams of Woven Fabrics1This standard is issued under the fixed designation D1683/D1683M; the number immediately following the designation indicates theyear of original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision.

2、 A number in parentheses indicates the year of lastreapproval. A superscript epsilon () indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.This standard has been approved for use by agencies of the U.S. Department of Defense.INTRODUCTIONThe structural integrity of textile products m

3、ade of woven fabrics is dependent on how well thepieces that are cut from rolls of fabric have been joined together. To measure this integrity requiresunderstanding the inter-relationship between two distinct test methods.(a) The first evaluation is done by testing fabric using Test Method D5034. Th

4、is standard is used to measure the resistance ofa woven fabric to rupture in the warp direction and, the filling yarn direction. The test method measures the force needed to rupturethe fabric causing the destruction of the fabric and the loss of its structural integrity. This loss of structural inte

5、grity causes yarnslippage, that is, the displacement and change of yarn spacing causing an irreversible fabric failure.(b) Before completing the second evaluation, an analysis and determination of the anticipated failure mode needs to becompleted by the fabric weaver or textile product manufacturer.

6、 While the failure mode for a woven fabric textile product sewnseam can demonstrate various and distinct levels, it is imperative to have agreement and understanding about the expectedperformance or service life of the end use product. Is the seam engineering used to build the textile product intend

7、ed to performfor a “single incident” discarded and replaced, or is the end use product designed and engineered to be subjected to regular careand maintenance to include repairs?(c) The second evaluation is done by using this test method, D1683/D1683M, to test fabric sections that have been cut and t

8、hensewn together using procedures that select a specific combination of sewing thread, stitch type, seam type, and stitch density. Theseare the seam engineering variables that determine which of the following outcomes can occur: (1) the fabric, at a force similar tothat when tested using Test Method

9、 D5034, will rupture adjacent to the stitch line causing the destruction and loss of fabricintegrity, and the failure of the textile structure; (2) the sewing thread used in the specific stitch configuration will rupture, at a forceless than 85 % of the fabric break strength, such that the fabric in

10、tegrity will be sufficient to enable repair of the textile structurealong the same axis.1. Scope1.1 This test method measures the sewn seam strength inwoven fabrics by applying a force perpendicular to the sewnseams.1.1.1 The axis perpendicular to the sewn seam can representeither the warp yarn axis

11、 or filling yarn axis, the same axistested when using grab Test Method D5034.1.1.1.1 This test method is applicable to sewn seams ob-tained from a previously sewn article or seams sewn withfabric samples using one of two specific seam assemblies asshown in Table 1.1.2 This test method is used when t

12、he maximum breakingforce measurement to rupture of a woven fabric sewn seam isrequired.1.2.1 This test method is used when the seam efficiencymeasurement of a woven fabric sewn seam is required.1.2.2 This test method is used to identify the sewn seamstrength threshold at which the failure of the sti

13、tching occurs,without damage to the fabric, so that the textile product can berepaired.1.2.3 This test method is used to identify the force at whichseam strength results in slippage and displacement of warpyarns, filling yarns, or any combination of these yarns.1.3 This test method does not predict

14、actual wear perfor-mance of a seam.1.4 The values stated in either SI units or inch-pound unitsare to be regarded separately as standard. The values stated ineach system may not be exact equivalents; therefore, eachsystem shall be used independently of the other. Combiningvalues from the two systems

15、 may result in non-conformancewith the standard.1.5 This standard does not purport to address all of thesafety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the1This test method is under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee D13 on Textilesand is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.54 on S

16、ubassemblies.Current edition approved March 1, 2017. Published April 2017. Originallyapproved in 1990. Last previous edition approved in 2016 as D168316. DOI:10.1520/D1683_D1683M-17.Copyright ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959. United StatesThis

17、international standard was developed in accordance with internationally recognized principles on standardization established in the Decision on Principles for theDevelopment of International Standards, Guides and Recommendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT

18、) Committee.1responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appro-priate safety and health practices and determine the applica-bility of regulatory limitations prior to use.1.6 This international standard was developed in accor-dance with internationally recognized principles on standard-i

19、zation established in the Decision on Principles for theDevelopment of International Standards, Guides and Recom-mendations issued by the World Trade Organization TechnicalBarriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.2. Referenced Documents2.1 ASTM Standards:2D76 Specification for Tensile Testing Machines for

20、TextilesD123 Terminology Relating to TextilesD1776 Practice for Conditioning and Testing TextilesD5034 Test Method for Breaking Strength and Elongation ofTextile Fabrics (Grab Test)D6193 Practice for Stitches and SeamsD7722 Terminology Relating to Industrial Textile Stitchesand SeamsE177 Practice fo

21、r Use of the Terms Precision and Bias inASTM Test MethodsE691 Practice for Conducting an Interlaboratory Study toDetermine the Precision of a Test Method3. Terminology3.1 Definitions:3.2 The following terms are relevant to this standard: needledamage; seam allowance; seam assembly; seam efficiency;s

22、eam engineering; seam failure; seam slippage; seam type;sewn seam; sewn seam strength; slippage; standard seam;stitch; stitch density; stitch gage; stitch type; yarn slippage.2For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, orcontact ASTM Customer Service at serviceastm.org. For

23、 Annual Book of ASTMStandards volume information, refer to the standards Document Summary page onthe ASTM website.TABLE 1 Standard/Default Seam Assembly SpecificationAFabric Mass: # 4 oz/yd2130 g/m2Procedure A Procedure BMass up to 4 oz/yd2130 g m2 up to 4 oz/yd2130 g m2Seam allowance 13 mm 0.5 in.

24、13 mm 0.5 in.Needle:Size Metric 90 0.036 in. Metric 90 0.036 in.Finish chrome chromePoint thin ball (No. 1/No. 23) thin ball (No. 1/No. 23)Sewing thread size:Spun Polyester Tex 40 Tex 40Polyester-Core Tex 40 Tex 40Seam Type Ssa-1 Ssa-1Stitch Type 301 401Stitch Density 4.7 12 stitches per centimetre

25、4.7 12 stitches per centimetre12 12 stitches per inch 12 12 stitches per inchFabric Mass: $ 4 oz/yd2130 g/m2 # 8 oz/yd2270 g/m2Procedure A Procedure BMass 4 oz/yd2130 g/m2 up to 8 oz/yd2270 g/m24 oz/yd2130 g/m2upto270g/m28 oz/yd2Seam Allowance 13 mm 0.5 in. 13 mm 0.5 in.Needle:Size Metric 110 0.044

26、in. Metric 110 0.044 in.Finish chrome chromePoint ball ballSewing Thread:Spun Polyester Tex 60 Tex 60Polyester-Core Tex 60 Tex 60Seam type SSa-1 SSa-1Stitch type 301 401Stitch density 3.1 12 stitches per centimetre 3.1 12 stitches per centimetre8 12 stitches per inch 8.5 12 stitches per inchFabric M

27、ass: $ 8 oz/yd2270 g/m2 # 12 oz/yd2405 g/m2Mass 8 oz/yd2270 g/m2upto12oz/yd2405 g/m2 8 oz/yd2270 g/m2upto12oz/yd2405 g/m2Seam allowance 13 mm 0.5 in. 13 mm 0.5 in.Needle:Size Metric 120 Metric 120Finish chrome chromePoint ball ballSewing thread size:Spun Polyester Tex 80 Tex 80Polyester-Core Tex 80

28、Tex 80Seam type Ssa-1 SSa-1Stitch type 301 401Stitch density 3.1 12 stitches per centimetre 3.1 12 stitches per centimetre8 12 stitches per inch 8.5 12 stitches per inchAA complete description of seam types and stitch types can be found in Practice D6193.NOTE 1When the performance of a woven textile

29、 structure requires data to indicate the maximum seam strength that will result in the failure of fabricon either side of seam, the standard seam can be changed to use the Lapped seam type construction with two or more rows of stitching: Lsc-2; Lsc-3;Lsc-4; and the maximum number of stitches per inc

30、h that can be used. (See Practice D6193.)D1683/D1683M 1723.3 For terminology related to seams and stitched, seeTerminology D7722.3.4 For definitions of other textile terms used in this testmethod, refer to Terminology D123.4. Summary of Test Method4.1 Sewn fabric sections are placed in a test machin

31、e so thatan applied force, perpendicular to the stitching, can be exerteduntil one of the following phenomena occur:4.1.1 Failure of sewing thread stitchline without damage tofabric (sewn seam strength) (seam efficiency).4.1.2 Failure caused by a force sufficient to stress the sewnseam and displace

32、one or more fabric yarns from their originalposition so as to cause fabric failure due to difference inalignment, spacing, or both.5. Significance and Use5.1 The manufacturing of textile products uses seam engi-neering to determine the best combination of sewing thread,stitch type, seam type, and st

33、itch density to construct the enduse structure. These four seam engineering variables contributeto a textile product being able to achieve the maximum sewnseam strength performance and structural integrity when cutpieces of fabric are joined together.5.1.1 It is known that for some textile structure

34、s the seamengineering variables are selected to meet a “one time perfor-mance requirement.” This means that following the “singleincident” during which the maximum performance potential orcapability of the textile structure has been met, it is expected tobe discarded and replaced with another “new”

35、unit. Forexample: an inflatable restraint in an automobile. Oncedeployed, it must be replaced; it cannot be re-used. Likewise,there are other textile structures, intended to be used multipletimes, while also being subjected to various care and mainte-nance regimens.5.1.2 This test method enables the

36、 fabric producer of wovenfabrics, the textile producer, and other users of the test methodto determine which seam engineering choices can be maderelative to: sewing thread tex size; seam type; stitch type; andstitch density to determine the potential outcomes that canoccur when a particular woven fa

37、bric is used:(a) What is the maximum force at which sewn seamstrength failure will enable products made with this fabric to berepaired?(b) What is the highest seam efficiency percentage at-tained?(c) What is the maximum force at which the sewn seamstrength results in seam slippage that can cause yar

38、n slippage,yarn displacement and fabric failure?5.1.2.1 The maximum force at which sewn seam strength orthe highest seam efficiency retained demonstrate failure of thestitching without causing the displacement of one or morefabric yarns from their original position mean that the productcan be repair

39、ed. When the failure results in displacement ofyarns, the textile product will need to be replaced.5.1.3 The procedures used in this test method represent twoprimary seam engineering techniques identified in PracticeD6193 and used to manufacture products made of woventextile fabrics.5.1.4 In case of

40、 dispute arising from differences in reportedtest results when using this test method for acceptance testingof commercial shipments, the purchaser and the suppliershould perform comparative tests to determine if there is astatistical bias between their laboratories. Competent statisticalassistance i

41、s recommended for the investigation of bias. As aminimum, the two parties should take a group of test speci-mens from the same lot of fabric to be evaluated, which utilizea like seam assembly (or standard seam assembly). The testspecimens should then be randomly assigned in equal numbersto each labo

42、ratory for testing. If a bias is found, either its causemust be determined and corrected, or the purchaser andsupplier must agree to interpret future test results in light of theknown bias.5.2 This test method can be used to determine the sewnseam strength and sewn seam efficiency of a specified sea

43、massembly with each fabric. Because sewn seam strength andsewn seam efficiency varies with each fabric, both of thestandard seam assemblies, noted in Table 1, should be usedwhen comparing the seam strength of different fabrics. Table 1lists the default seam assembly specifications to be used forfabr

44、ics made with fine, medium and heavy count yarns. If adetermination cannot be made as to which seam is the bestsuited for a particular fabric, all should be evaluated.5.3 Seams prepared for this test method should be made bycompetent factory sewing operators familiar with the potentialfor damage to

45、the integrity of the sewn seam when stitching isimproperly done.5.3.1 If competent factory sewing operators are notaccessible, a laboratory technician familiar with the potentialfor damage of an improperly sewn seam may prepare theseamed test specimens. It is imperative for purchaser/supplierto unde

46、rstand the impact an improperly sewn seam will haveon test results.5.4 This test method is applicable whenever a determinationof sewn seam strength is required. The breaking force of theseam and fabric will permit estimation of seam efficiency. Thistest method can be used as an aid for estimating se

47、am strengthfor any given fabric.5.5 Seam engineering techniques for specific fabric typescan also be determined by utilizing this test method.5.6 This test method can be used to determine when thesewn seam is affected by seam slippage. While the ultimateconsequence of this phenomenon is rupture, sea

48、m slippagegreater than either the values stated in customer specifications,or as agreed upon by purchaser/supplier may severely reducethe integrity such that the product cannot be used for itsintended purpose.6. Apparatus6.1 Tensile Testing Machine, as used in Test Method D5034conforming to Specific

49、ation D76, and preferably a constant-rate-of-extension (CRE) type of machine capable of jawseparation rate of 305 6 10 mm/min 12.0 6 0.5 in./min andan interfaced computer response to record the force-extensionD1683/D1683M 173curve. When a CRE type of machine is not used, a constant-rate-of traverse (CRT) type of machine may be used. (See Note1.)NOTE 1In cases of dispute a constant-rate-of-extension (CRE) typemachine should be used to referee testing. Because of the biases betweentest results f