ASTM D123 - 17 Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles.pdf

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1、Designation: D123 17Standard Terminology Relating toTextiles1This standard is issued under the fixed designation D123; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year oforiginal adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the

2、 year of last reapproval. Asuperscript epsilon () indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.This standard has been approved for use by agencies of the U.S. Department of Defense.1. Scope1.1 This standard is the compilation of all terminologydeveloped by Committee D13 on Tex

3、tiles.1.1.1 This terminology, consists mostly of definitions,which are specific to the textile industry. Meanings of the sameterms used outside the textile industry can be found in othercompilations or in dictionaries of general usage.1.1.2 The specific D13 subcommittee (SC) which has juris-dictiona

4、l responsibility for every item is the first attributionnoted after the definition. The SC terminology standard inwhich all the terms and definitions appear is listed by numberafter the jurisdiction for the term. The wording of an entrycannot be changed without the approval of the subcommitteewhich

5、has jurisdiction. Users of this compilation should alsoreview the SC terminology standard listed for more details orinterpretations of these terms and their use by the SC havingjurisdiction.1.2 In addition to being a specialized dictionary, Terminol-ogy D123 is also a tool for managing the committee

6、sterminology. This includes finding, eliminating, and preventingredundancies, that is, where two or more terms relating thesame concept are defined in different words. Redundancies canalso occur when one definition is used for two or more terms.1.3 While the review for clarity and form are the respo

7、nsi-bility of the terminology subcommittee, the concept of man-aging terminology is the broad responsibility of every writer ofstandards, specifically the task group leader and subcommitteechairman.1.4 Subsequent to a listing of specific subcommitteecompilations, this standard is comprised of the fo

8、llowingsections that are listed in the order in which they appear.1.4.1 Alphabetical listing of terms with definitions followedby SC attribution in brackets and SC terminology standard.1.4.2 Annex A1 Terms Relating to the Hand of Fabrics.1.4.3 Annex A2 Industry Accepted Synonyms.1.4.4 Annex A3 Termi

9、nology Taken From D13 StandardsThat Have Been Withdrawn.1.4.5 Annex A4 Terminology Relating to Leather.1.4.6 Annex A5 Terminology Revision Procedures.1.4.7 Appendix X1 Other Sources of Textile Terminology.1.5 This international standard was developed in accor-dance with internationally recognized pr

10、inciples on standard-ization established in the Decision on Principles for theDevelopment of International Standards, Guides and Recom-mendations issued by the World Trade Organization TechnicalBarriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.2. Referenced Documents2.1 ASTM Standards:2D2050 Terminology Relating to

11、 Fasteners and ClosuresUsed with TextilesD3136 Terminology Relating to Care Labeling for Apparel,Textile, Home Furnishing, and Leather ProductsD3888 Terminology for Yarn Spinning SystemsD3990 Terminology Relating to Fabric DefectsD4391 Terminology Relating to The Burning Behavior ofTextilesD4845 Ter

12、minology Relating to WoolD4848 Terminology Related to Force, Deformation andRelated Properties of TextilesD4849 Terminology Related to Yarns and FibersD4850 Terminology Relating to Fabrics and Fabric TestMethodsD4920 Terminology Relating to Conditioning, Chemical,and Thermal PropertiesD5219 Terminol

13、ogy Relating to Body Dimensions for Ap-parel SizingD5253 Terminology Relating to Floor Coverings and TextileUpholstered FurnitureD5646 Terminology Relating to Seams and Stitches Used inHome SewingD5684 Terminology Relating to Pile Floor Coverings1This terminology is under the jurisdiction ofASTM Com

14、mittee D13 on Textilesand is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.92 on Terminology.Current edition approved March 1, 2017. Published April 2017. Originallyapproved in 1921. Last previous edition approved in 2015 as D123 15b1. DOI:10.1520/D0123-17.2For referenced ASTM standards, visit the A

15、STM website, www.astm.org, orcontact ASTM Customer Service at serviceastm.org. For Annual Book of ASTMStandards volume information, refer to the standards Document Summary page onthe ASTM website.Copyright ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959. Unit

16、ed States1D6477 Terminology Relating to Tire Cord, Bead Wire, HoseReinforcing Wire, and FabricsD6798 Terminology Relating to Flax and LinenD6799 Terminology Relating to Inflatable RestraintsD6963 Terminology Relating to Sewn Products AutomationD7018 Terminology Relating to Glass Fiber and Its Produc

17、tsD7022 Terminology Relating to ApparelD7023 Terminology Relating to Home FurnishingsD7139 Terminology for Cotton FibersD7722 Terminology Relating to Industrial Textile Stitchesand Seams3. Terminology3.1 Alphabetical listing of terms with subcommittee juris-diction and attribution for each term.A-tu

18、ft, na single-pass process for aligning hook free fiberson the Fibroliner FL-101. D 13.11 D7139abrasion, nthe wearing away of any part of a material byrubbing against another surface. D13.60 D4850abrasion, nfor inflatable restraint fabrics, a fuzzy cluster ofbroken filaments damaged by scraping. D13

19、.20 D6799abrasion cycle, none complete movement across the surfaceof a material. D13.60 D4850abrasion mark, nan area damaged by friction.D13.59 D3990absolute humidity, nthe mass of water vapor present in aunit volume of air. (See humidity and relative humidity)D13.51 D4920absorbent compound, nin tex

20、tile cleaning, sponge-likeparticles which, when saturated with water or dry solventand detergent and brushed into the textile, remove soil fromthe textile. See powder cleaner. D13.62 D5253absorbent pad, nfor cleaning textile floor coverings, a damptextile material (fabric, felt, sponge, or mop) used

21、 to agitateand wipe the pile and, in the process, absorb soil.D13.62 D5253absorption, na process in which one material (the absorbent)takes in or absorbs another (the absorbate); as the absorptionof moisture by fibers. (See also adsorption, and moistureequilibrium for testing. Compare desorption and

22、resorption.) D13.51 D4920accelerated aging, nin textile processing and testing, the useof controlled environmental conditions to promote rapidphysical or chemical change in a textile material.D13.20 D6799acid content, nof felt, the number of milliequivalents of acidpresent per unit weight of felt, m

23、easured under prescribedconditions. D13.13 D4845acromion, nin anatomy, that part of the shoulder bladelocated at the end of the spine which articulates with thecollar bone. (See also shoulder joint.) D13.55 D5219across back shoulder width, nthe horizontal distance acrossthe back from the top of one

24、shoulder joint to the top of theother shoulder joint, taken with the arms down. D13.55D5219across front shoulder width, nthe horizontal distance acrossthe front from the top of one shoulder joint to the top of theother shoulder joint, taken with the arms down. D13.55)D5219across shoulder, nin body m

25、easurements, the distance fromshoulder joint to shoulder joint across the back.D13.55 D5219acrylic fiberSee acrylic in D7641.adhesion, nthe property denoting the ability of a material toresist delamination or separation into two or more layers.D13.19 D6477adhesion, nin tire fabrics, the force requir

26、ed to separate atextile material from rubber or other elastomer by a definiteprescribed method. D13.19 D6477adhesive treated-tire cord, na tire cord whose adhesion torubber or other elastomer has been improved by the appli-cation of a dip followed by rapid drying and (normally)additional heat treatm

27、ent. D13.19 D6477adsorption, na process in which the surface of a solid takeson or absorbs in an extremely thin layer molecules of gases,of dissolved substances, or of liquids with which it is incontact. (See also absorption, moisture equilibrium oftesting. Compare desorption and resorption.)D13.51

28、D4920afterflame, npersistent flaming of a material after the igni-tion source has been removed. D13.92 D4391after-flame time, nthe length of time for which a materialcontinues to flame after the ignition source has been re-moved. D13.92 D4391afterglow, nglow in a material after the removal of anexte

29、rnal ignition source or after the cessation (natural orinduced) of flaming of the material. (See also flame, glow,and smoldering.) D13.92 D4391afterglow time, nthe time afterglow continues after thecessation of flaming or after removal of the ignition source.D13.92 D4391air-jet spinning machine, na

30、machine that converts sliversof staple fibers into spun yarn using drafting rollers and avortex created by an airflow suction orifice. D13.58D3888air permeability, nthe rate of air flow passing perpendicularthrough a known area under a prescribed air pressuredifferential between the two surfaces of

31、a material.D13.60 D4850air splice, nfor inflatable restraint fabrics, the thickerportion of a yarn resulting from the entanglement of thefilaments at the ends of two multifilament yarns to create acontinuous yarn. D13.20 D6799D123 172air-supported roof, na fabric roof-system that is properlysecured

32、and primarily supported and held in place by airpressure. D13.59/D13.60 D4850air wicking, nin tires, the passage of air longitudinally alongor through yarns in a fabric that has been encased and curedin rubber or other elastomer, that is, air permeability in theplane of the fabric. D13.19 D6477alkal

33、i solubility, nin wool, the percent of clean wool that issoluble in a specified alkaline solution under controlledconditions of temperature and time. D13.13 D4845All-purpose, nan outerwear garment, often with a removableliner, which is suitable for use in many different weatherconditions. D13.61 D70

34、22alpaca, nthe fleece and fiber produced by the alpaca, ananimal of the genus Llama (Lama glama pacus).D13.13 D4845alternate grade reference line, nan optional internal linewhose orientation is used for the “x” axis of a grade rule.D13.66 D6963American grain count, n direct yarn numbering system for

35、expressing linear density, equal to the mass in grains per 120yards of sliver or roving. D13.58 D4849amount, nin cotton fiber testing with the Length Analyzer,ameasure of the thickness or pneumatic density of the testbeard, proportional to the number of fibers present at variousdistances from the ba

36、se of the specimen clamp jaws.D13.11 D7139amount, nin cotton length testing with the Fibrograph,ameasure of the thickness, or optical density, of the test beard,proportional to the number of fibers present at variousdistances from the comb(s). D13.11 D7139anidex fiberSee anidex in D7641.animal fiber

37、, nany natural protein-base fiber. See D7641.ankle, nin anatomy, the joint between the foot and the lowerleg. D13.55 D5219ankle girth, nin body measurements, the circumference ofthe leg over the greatest prominence of the ankle.D13.55 D5219ankle height, nin body measurements, with the subjectstandin

38、g barefoot, the distance from the center of theprominent outside ankle bone to the floor. D13.55 D5219ankle height (infant special case), nthe straight distancefrom the prominence of the outer ankle bone to the soles ofthe feet, taken with subject lying down flat with legsextended and the foot posit

39、ioned at 1.57 rad (90) to the leg.D13.55 D5219annotation text, noptional user text that can be specificallydefined and displayed when the pattern piece is plotted.D13.66 D6963apex, nthe greatest protrusion of the breast as seen from theside. D13.53 D5219apex angle, nthe angle formed between the inco

40、ming andoutgoing yarn at the top (and bottom) of the inter-wrappedyarn area in the static condition. D13.19 D6477applied tension, nin yarn abrasion testing, the static tensionexerted on the weighted end of the yarn by the appliedweight. D13.19 D6477aqueous extract, nin wool testing, the solution obt

41、ained bydigesting a material with water or with a sodium chloridesolution to dissolve soluble materials. D13.13 D4845aramid fiberSee aramid in D7641.architectural-use, nin the building trade, a descriptive termfor fabrics used in fabric roof-systems or similar industrialapplications. (See also fabri

42、c roof-system.)D13.59 D4850arm length, nin body measurements, with the arm bent at 90degrees and the clenched fist placed on the hip, the distancefrom the shoulder joint along the outside of the arm over theelbow to the greatest prominence on the outside of the wrist.D13.55 D5219armhole, nin garment

43、 construction, the area of a garmentthrough which the arm passes or into which a sleeve is fitted.(Compare armscye.) D13.55 D5219armpit, nin anatomy, the hollow under the junction of thearm and the shoulder. D13.55 D5219armscye, nin garment construction, the opening in a gar-ment for the attachment

44、of a fitted sleeve. (Comparearmhole.) D13.55 D5219armscye circumference, nin body measurements, with thearm hanging down, the distance from the shoulder jointthrough the front-break point, the armpit, the back-breakpoint and to the starting point. D13.55 D5219assembled button, na decorative button c

45、onsisting of com-binations of similar or dissimilar materials, such as plasticand metal or metal and metal, which have been joinedtogether by such processes as gluing, swedging or metalstamping. D13.54 D2050atmosphere for testing, nair at ambient conditions ofrelative humidity and temperature in whi

46、ch tests or experi-ments are conducted. (See also standard atmosphere fortesting.) D13.51 D4920atmosphere for testing textiles, nfor glass, air maintained ata relative humidity of at least 48 % and no greater than 67 %and at a temperature of at least 20C (68F) and no greaterthan 25C (77F). D13.18 D7

47、018attached cushion, nfor pile yarn floor covering, a material,bonded to the backing fabric side of a pile yarn floorcovering to provide additional dimensional stability,thickness, and padding. D13.21 D5684attached upholstery fabric, nthe exterior fabric coveringsecured to a furniture unit by the fu

48、rniture manufacturer orcustom upholsterer. (See furniture coverings)D13.63 D7023D123 173automatic lock slider, na slider that provides involuntary,positive locking action on the chain when the pull is releasedrestricting the movement of the slider to open the chainunless a stress is applied through

49、the stringers that exceedsthe locking capacity of the slider. D13.54 D2050average dynamic air permeability (ADAP), nfor inflatablerestraints, the average of all of DAP measurements within aspecified range of pressure differentials. D13.20 D6799average fiber diameter, nthe arithmetic mean width of agroup of fibers. D13.13 D4845average fiber diameter, nin wool and other animal fibers,the average width