ASTM D4235 - 01(2008) Standard Performance Specification for Womens and Girls Knitted Blouse and Dress Fabrics (Withdrawn 2017).pdf

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1、Designation: D4235 01 (Reapproved 2008)Standard Performance Specification forWomens and Girls Knitted Blouse and Dress Fabrics1This standard is issued under the fixed designation D4235; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year oforiginal adoption or, in the case of revisio

2、n, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. Asuperscript epsilon () indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.1. Scope1.1 This performance specification covers knitted fabricscomprised of any textile fiber or mixture of fiber

3、s, used inwomens and girls blouses and dresses womens and girlsknitted blouse and dress fabrics composed of any fiber ormixture of textile fibers.1.2 These requirements apply to the length and widthdirections for those properties where each fabric direction ispertinent.1.3 This standard does not pur

4、port to address all of thesafety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is theresponsibility of the user of this standard to establish appro-priate safety and health practices and determine the applica-bility of regulatory limitations prior to use.2. Referenced Documents2.1 ASTM Standards:2D1

5、23 Terminology Relating to TextilesD2594 Test Method for Stretch Properties of Knitted FabricsHaving Low PowerD2724 Test Methods for Bonded, Fused, and LaminatedApparel FabricsD3786 Test Method for Bursting Strength of TextileFabricsDiaphragm Bursting Strength Tester MethodD3787 Test Method for Burs

6、ting Strength of TextilesConstant-Rate-of-Traverse (CRT) Ball Burst Test2.2 AATCC Methods:38 Colorfastness to Crocking: AATCC Crockmeter Method15 Colorfastness to Perspiration16 Colorfastness to Light23 Colorfastness to Burnt Gas Fumes61 Colorfastness to Washing, Domestic, and Laundering,Commercial:

7、 Accelerated116 Colorfastness to Crocking: Rotary Vertical CrockmeterMethod124 Appearance of Durable Press Fabrics after RepeatedHome Launderings132 Colorfastness to Drycleaning135 Dimensional Changes in Automatic Home Launderingof Durable Press Woven or Knit Fabrics172 Colorfastness to Non-chlorine

8、 Bleach in Home Laun-dering188 Colorfastness to Chlorine Bleach in Home LaunderingEvaluation Procedure 1 Gray Scale for Color ChangeEvaluation Procedure 2 Gray Scale for StainingEvaluation Procedure 3 AATCC Chromatic TransferenceScale2.3 Federal Standard:416 CFR, Chapter II-Consumer Product Safety C

9、ommissionSubchapter D-Flammable Fabrics Act Regulations.2.4 Military Standard:5MIL-STD-105D Sampling Procedures and Tables for In-spection by AttributesNOTE 1Reference to test methods in this standard give only thepermanent part of the designation of ASTM, AATCC, or other testmethods. The current ed

10、itions of each test method cited shall prevail.3. Terminology3.1 Definitions:3.1.1 sheer, na fabric that is transparently thin or diapha-nous.3.1.1.1 DiscussionThere is no clear distinction betweensheer fabrics and nonsheer fabrics. The purchaser and the sellershould agree in advance into which cate

11、gory a fabric should beclassified.3.2 For definitions of other textile terms used in thisspecification, refer to the individual ASTM and AATCC testmethods and to Terminology D123.1This performance specification is under the jurisdiction of ASTM CommitteeD13 on Textiles and is the direct responsibili

12、ty of Subcommittee D13.61 onApparel.Current edition approved Aug. 1, 2008. Published October 2008. Originallyapproved in 1983. Last previous edition approved in 2001 as D4253 01. DOI:10.1520/D4235-01R08.2For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, orcontact ASTM Customer Ser

13、vice at serviceastm.org. For Annual Book of ASTMStandards volume information, refer to the standards Document Summary page onthe ASTM website.3Available from American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists(AATCC), P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709, http:/www.aatcc.org.4Availabl

14、e from Superintendent of Documents, Government Printing Office,Washington, DC 20402.5Available from Standardization Documents Order Desk, Bldg. 4 Section D, 700Robbins Ave., Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094, Attn: NPODS.Copyright ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken,

15、PA 19428-2959. United StatesNOTICE: This standard has either been superseded and replaced by a new version or withdrawn.Contact ASTM International (www.astm.org) for the latest information14. Specification Requirements4.1 The properties of knitted fabrics for womens and girlsblouses and dresses shal

16、l conform to the specification require-ments in Table 1.5. Significance and Use5.1 Upon mutual agreement between the purchaser and theseller, fabrics intended for this end use should meet all of therequirements listed in Table 1 of this specification.5.2 It is recognized that for purposes of fashion

17、 oraesthetics, the ultimate consumer of articles made from thesefabrics may find acceptable fabrics that do not conform to allof the requirements in Table 1. Therefore, one or more of therequirements listed in Table 1 may be modified by mutualagreement between the purchaser and the seller.5.2.1 In s

18、uch cases, any references to the specification shallspecify that: “This fabric meets ASTM SpecificationD4235except for the following characteristic(s).”5.3 Where no prepurchase agreement has been reachedbetween the purchaser and the seller, and in case ofcontroversy, the requirements listed in Table

19、 1 are intended tobe used as a guide only. As noted in 5.2, ultimate consumerdemands dictate varying performance parameters for anyparticular style of fabric.5.4 The uses and significance of particular properties andtest methods are discussed in the appropriate sections of thespecified test methods.

20、6. Sampling6.1 Lot SampleAs a lot sample for acceptance testing, takeat random the number of rolls as directed in an applicablespecification or other agreement between the purchaser and thesupplier, such as an agreement to use MIL-STD-105D.6.2 Laboratory SampleFrom each roll or piece in the lotsampl

21、e, cut two laboratory samples the full width of the fabricand at least 375 mm (15 in.) along the selvage.7. Test Methods (See Note 1)7.1 Bursting StrengthDetermine the bursting strength asdirected in Test Method D3786 or Test Method D3787 asagreed between the purchaser and the seller.NOTE 2Care shou

22、ld be taken to subtract the tare diaphragm pressurefrom the gross pressure to obtain actual bursting strength of fabric whenusing the diaphragm bursting tester. Calibrate the equipment according tomanufacturers instruction before use. Since there is no overall correlationbetween the results obtained

23、 with the CRT machine equipped with abursting attachment and the diaphragm bursting tester, these two burstingtesters cannot be used interchangeably. In case of controversy, TestMethod D3786 shall prevail.NOTE 3The precision of the ball burst method using the CRT machineequipped with a bursting atta

24、chment and the precision of the diaphragmbursting tester method are being established by Subcommittee D13.59.The methods are accordingly not recommended for acceptance testingunless preceded by an interlaboratory check test in the laboratory of thepurchaser and the laboratory of the seller using ran

25、domized replicatespecimens of the type of material to be evaluated.7.2 Dimensional Change:TABLE 1 Specification RequirementACharacteristicRequirementsSectionSheer Fabrics NonSheer FabricsBursting Strength (ball burst)B20 lbf (89 N), min 30 lbf (133 N), min 7.1Dimensional Change:Laundering (see 7.2.1

26、.2) 3 % max 3 % max 7.2.1Drycleaning 3 % max 3 % max 7.2.2Colorfastness:Burnt gas fumes, 2 cycles 7.3.1Shade Change, original Class 4C, min Class 4C,minShade change, after one launderingorone drycleaningClass 4C, min Class 4C,minLaundering: 7.3.2Shade Change Class 4C, min Class 4C,minStaining Class

27、3D, min Class 3D,minDrycleaning: 7.3.3Shade Change Class 4C, min Class 4C,minCrocking: 7.3.4Dry Class 4E, min Class 4E,minWet Class 3E, min Class 3E,minPerspiration: 7.3.5Shade Change Class 4C, min Class 4C,minStaining Class 3D, min Class 3D,minLight (20 AATCC FU) (xenon-arc) Step 4C, min Step 4C,mi

28、n 7.3.6Chlorine Bleach Class 4C, min Class 4C,min 7.3.7Non-chlorine Bleach Class 4C, min Class 4C,min 7.3.8Fabric Appearance (see 7.4.1.1) DP 3.5, min DP 3.5, min 7.4Flammability pass pass 7.5AClass in colorfastness is based on a numerical scale of 5 for negligible color change or color transfer to

29、1 for very severe color change or color transfer.BThere is more than one standard method that can be used to measure bursting strength and lightfastness. These methods cannot be used interchangeably since theremay be no overall correlation between them (see 3.1.1 and Note 2, Note 3, Note 4, and Note

30、 5).CAATCC Gray Scale for Color Change.DAATCC Gray Scale for Staining.EAATCC Chromatic Transference Scale.D4235 01 (2008)27.2.1 LaunderingDetermine the maximum dimensionalchange after five launderings, or as agreed between thepurchaser and the seller, as directed in the applicable procedurein AATCC

31、Method 135 (Note 4).7.2.1.1 The wash conditions and drying procedure shall beas specified by the seller.7.2.1.2 When the dimensional change after five launderingsexceeds 3 %, determine the stretch of the fabric after fivelaunderings as directed in Test Methods D2594 using 0.5 lbf(227 gf) load. If th

32、e difference between the percent stretch ofthe laundered fabric and the percent shrinkage due to launder-ing does not exceed 3 % shrinkage, then the fabric meets thespecification requirement in Table 1.7.2.2 DrycleaningDetermine the maximum dimensionalchange after three drycleanings, or as agreed be

33、tween thepurchaser and the seller, as directed in Sections 10.1.3 through10.1.4.5 of Test Methods D2724.NOTE 4Launderable fabrics are expected to be drycleanable exceptwhere all or part of the fabric is not drycleanable and is so labeled. Forexample, the fabric could contain a functional finish solu

34、ble in the solvent,or the fiber could be degraded by the solvent, which would be the casewith poly (vinyl chloride) fiber. “Drycleanable” goods are to be dry-cleaned only.7.3 Colorfastness:7.3.1 Burnt Gas FumesDetermine the colorfastness toburnt gas fumes on the original fabric and after one launder

35、ingor one drycleaning as directed in AATCC Method 23 after 2cycles.NOTE 5Washing conditions shall be the same as those used in 7.2.1.1.Drycleaning conditions shall be the same as those used in 7.2.2.7.3.2 LaunderingDetermine the colorfastness to launder-ing as directed in the applicable procedure of

36、 AATCCMethod 61. The test conditions shall be as specified by theseller (Note 4).7.3.3 DrycleaningDetermine colorfastness to drycleaningas directed in AATCC Method 132 (Note 4).7.3.4 CrockingDetermine colorfastness to dry and wetcrocking as directed in AATCC Method 8 for solid shades andAATCC Method

37、 116 for prints or as agreed between thepurchaser and the seller.7.3.5 PerspirationDetermine colorfastness to perspirationas directed in AATCC Method 15.7.3.6 LightDetermine colorfastness to light as directed inAATCC Method 16.NOTE 6There are distinct differences in spectral distribution betweenthe

38、various types of machines listed inAATCC Method 16, with no overallcorrelations between them. Consequently, these machines cannot be usedinterchangeably. In case of controversy, results obtained with the WaterCooled Xenon Arc machine listed in Option E shall prevail.7.3.7 Colorfastness to Chlorine B

39、leachDetermine color-fastness to light as directed in AATCC Test Method 16.7.3.8 Colorfastness to Non-chlorine BleachDeterminecolorfastness to light as directed in AATCC Test Method 16.7.4 Fabric AppearanceDetermine the fabric appearanceas directed in AATCC Method 124 after laundering using thewash-

40、and-wear cycle or the normal cycle as agreed betweenthe purchaser and the seller as specified in 7.2.1.1 for washablefabrics or after drycleaning as specified in 7.2.2 for dryclean-able fabrics (see Note 3).7.4.1 For fabrics not intended for use in durable pressgarments, determine the fabric smoothn

41、ess after pressing asspecified in 10.2.5 of Test Methods D2724.7.4.1.1 The fabric smoothness (DP) (durable press) rating ofsuch fabrics, and the DP rating of drycleaned fabrics, shallhave decreased no more than12 rating from that of the fabricbefore it is laundered or drycleaned.7.5 FlammabilityThe

42、flammability requirements shall beas agreed between the purchaser and the seller, provided theymeet or exceed those of Part 1610 of the Flammable FabricsAct Regulations.8. Keywords8.1 blouse; dressASTM International takes no position respecting the validity of any patent rights asserted in connectio

43、n with any item mentionedin this standard. Users of this standard are expressly advised that determination of the validity of any such patent rights, and the riskof infringement of such rights, are entirely their own responsibility.This standard is subject to revision at any time by the responsible

44、technical committee and must be reviewed every five years andif not revised, either reapproved or withdrawn. Your comments are invited either for revision of this standard or for additional standardsand should be addressed to ASTM International Headquarters. Your comments will receive careful consid

45、eration at a meeting of theresponsible technical committee, which you may attend. If you feel that your comments have not received a fair hearing you shouldmake your views known to the ASTM Committee on Standards, at the address shown below.This standard is copyrighted by ASTM International, 100 Bar

46、r Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959,United States. Individual reprints (single or multiple copies) of this standard may be obtained by contacting ASTM at the aboveaddress or at 610-832-9585 (phone), 610-832-9555 (fax), or serviceastm.org (e-mail); or through the ASTM website(www.astm.org). Permission rights to photocopy the standard may also be secured from the ASTM website (www.astm.org/COPYRIGHT/).D4235 01 (2008)3