DLA A-A-55291-1996 JACKET UTILITY UNISEX《中性通用外套》.pdf

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1、A-A-55291 = 9999974 01702L3 794 X-Short XX-Small X-Small A-A-55291 Januarv 11.1996 Short Regular Long X-Long X-Small X-Small COMMERCLAL ITEM DESCRIPTION JACKET, UTILITY, UNISEX Small Medium The General Services Administration has authorized the use of this comercial item description as a replacement

2、 for MIL-J-87058 and MIL-J-82293 for all Federal agencies. Small Small Small Medium Medium Medium Medium Large Large Large Large X-Large X-Large X-Large i. ScoDe. This document covers the requirements for a unisex utility jacket fabricated of polyestercotton blend poplin, treated with a durable wate

3、r repellent finish. 2. Classification. The jacket shall be of one type in the following lengths and sizes: Schedule of Sizes 3. SALIENT CHARACTERISTICS 3.1 DescriDtion. The jacket shall be fully lined, waist-length, with two front slash pockets, inside front patch pockets, front slide fastener closu

4、re with wind flap on le? front, raglan sleeves with recessed knitted wrist cuffs, and a knitted waistband. The jacket shall have a fold down collar with a collar tab and a hanger loop of basic material or braid finishing 2 to 2-314 inches long at center back neckline. The wind flap and collar tab cl

5、osure shall be secured with hook and loop fastener tape; the inside patch pockets shall have hook and loop fastener tape closure. The collar, pocket welts, collar tab and wind flap shall be interlined (fused). Beneficial comments (recommendations, additions, deletions, clarifications, etc,) and any

6、data which may improve this document should be sent to: Defense Personnel Support Center, Clothing and Textiles Directorate, Attn: DPSC-FNSC, 2800 South 20th Street, Philadelphia, PA 19145-5099. I I AMSC NIA FSC 8415 DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited. P

7、rovided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-A-A-55291 U 9777774 0170214 620 m Weave Yarndinch (min.) Weight (oz./yd.2) Colorfastness to: Crocking Laundering (after 3 cvcles A-A-55291 Plain Certificate of compiianie 110 warp ASTM D3775 Il 68 fillin

8、g 5.5 - 6.8 Grade 2.5 AATCC 8 ASTM D3776, Option C 11 “Good” AATCC 61, Test 3A 21 3.2 Stitching. All stitching shall be 10 to 14 stitches per inch. Front slash her pocket shall be joined with a safety stitch or double needle stitched. The collar and the wind flap shall be topstitched 114 inch gage.

9、The pocket welt and the collar tab shall be topstitched 118 inch gage. The top and bottom edges of pocket welts shall be bartacked. Both sides of the opening and bot- tom ends of slide fastener shall be bartacked to jacket. Perspiration Light (after 40 standard fading hours) Breaking strength (min.)

10、 3.3 Pocket welt dimensions. The fnished length of the pocket welts for the X-Short and Short jackets shall be 5-314 2114 inches; for the Regular, Long and X-Long jackets 6-114 2114 inches. The fnished width of the pocket welts for all sizes shall be 1-118 i118 inches. 3.4 Material “Good” AATCC 15 3

11、1 “Good” AATCC 16, Option A 185 lbs. warp 70 lbs. filling ASTM D 1682 3.4.1 Basic Material. The basic material for the jacket outershell, front facing and inside patch pockets shall be a blend of 65 +3 percent polyester and 35 23 percent combed cotton poplin. The cloth shall be plain weave with 2 pl

12、y warp yams, singles filling yarns, and an approved fluoro- carbon type water repellent treatment. The color shall be Blue 3346 and shall match the standard sample. The finished cloth shall conform to the requirements listed in Table I below. TABLE I - PHYSICAL REQUIREMENTS Air permeability (max.) D

13、imensional stability (max.) Spray rating Dynamic absorption (max.) DerCent I Characteristic I Requirement I Test Method 1 4.0 ASTM D737 2.0 percent warp the minimum weight shall be 2.2 oz./yd.2. The lining fabric shall show “good“ colorfastness to perspiration when tested as specified in AATCC 15 (t

14、he test for color- fastness for acid and alkaline solution shall apply), and a minimum rating of 3.5 when tested for colorfastness to crocking as specified in AATCC 8. 3 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-A-A-5529 1 3.4.2.2 Batting. The

15、batting for the quilted lining shall consist of 65 percent polyolefn/35 per- cent polyester (by weight). The polyolefin micro fibers shall be in the 2 to 10 micron range. The weight shall be 2.9 to 3.7 oz./yd.2. The thickness shall be 0.18 to 0.22 inches when tested at 0.01 psi, using a 5 inch diame

16、ter presser foot (see 7.3). 3.4.2.3 Scrim. The backing cloth for the batting shall be a continuous, spunbonded, nonwoven, nylon scrim cloth with a minimum weight of 0.3 oz./yd.2 (see 7.3). 3.4.3 Knitted wrist cuffs and waistband. The wrist cuffs and waistband shall consist of a 2 ply, lx i rib knit

17、of 1 O0 percent polyester 2 ply yarns, with laid in elastic yarn in the waistband only. The wrist cuffs shall be seamless and shall finish 2-314 2114 inches wide by 4 +1/4 inches long when folded, the waistband shall finish 3 2114 inches wide. The color of the cuffs and waistband shall approximate t

18、he shade of the outershell material and shall show “good“ colorfastness to light and laundering when tested as specified in AATCC 16, Option A, and AATCC 61, Test 3A (footnote 21 from Table I applies), and a minimum rating of 3.5 when tested for colorfastness to crocking as specified in AATCC 8. 3.4

19、.4 Slide fastener. The slide fastener shall be separating, non-reversible, size medium special, with brass slider, brass pull and chain. The slide fastener tape shall approximate the shade of the basic material. The brass slider shall have a long tab pull. Theseparating pin shall be on the left side

20、 of the jacket as worn. The bottom stop shall be even with the bottom of jacket, and the beginning of chain even with finished neckline of jacket. All components shall be furnished by the same supplier. 3.4.5 Thread. The thread for all seaming and stitching shall be 3 1 to 45 Tex, 2 or 3 ply, cotton

21、 covered polyester thread. The color shall approximate the shade of the basic material, and shall show colorfastness to crocking, laundering, perspiration and light equal to the requirements for the basic material. 3.4.6 Hook and IOOP fastener tape. The hook and loop fastener tape used for the wind

22、flap, collar tab closure, and inside patch pocket closure shall be i inch wide and black. The fastener tape shall be stitched to the jacket on all four sides, 1/8 inch gage. The wind flap shall have six pieces of hook fastener tape. The right fiont shall have six corresponding pieces of loop fastene

23、r tape. The underside of the collar shall have two pieces of loop fastener tape, and the collar tab shall have 2 pieces of hook fastener tape, one on each side. Each of the inside patch pockets shall have loop fastener tape on the inside of pocket and hook fastener tape on the front lining. Placemen

24、t shall be as indicated on the pattern. 3.4.7 Fusible interlininq. The interlining for the collar, pocket welts, welt pocket stays, collar tab and wind flap shall be a fusible interlining suitable for the intended purpose. 3.5 Labels 3.5.1 Combination label. Each jacket shall have a white, commercia

25、l type combination identification/insuctionpersonal label sewn to jacket lining, centered approximately 2 inches below the center back collar seam. The inscription shall show “good“ colorfastness to laundering and shall containing the following information: 4 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduc

26、tion or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-A-A-55291 U 9799974 O170217 33T A-A-5529 1 NAME: SERVICE NO.: JACKET, UTILITY, UNISEX OUTERSHELL FABRIC: 65% POLYESTEW35% COTTON CONTRACT NO.: NAME OF CONTRACTOIUMANUFACR LAUNDEFUNG INSTRUCTIONS Spot wash badly soiled areas Machine Wash - Hot

27、 1400 using detergent - rinse at least 3 times Machine spin or squeeze by hand DO NOT BLEACH Machine dry at moderate heat or hang to dry Press with moderately hot iron (synthetic setting) DO NOT DRYCLEAN OR Use NAVEDTR4 4 14-0 1-45-8 1, Formula II 3.5.2 Size label. Each jacket shall have a white, co

28、mmercial type size label centered in the inside collar seam. The inscription shall show “good“ colorfastness to laundering and shall con- tain the following information: SIZE: Medium - Long (Example) STOCK NO.: 84 15-00-000-0000 (Example) 3.5.3 Removable size ticket. Each jacket shall have a commerc

29、ial type removable size ticket attached to the outside of the lower left sleeve. The ticket shall be approximately 1-112 inches long and 2 inches high, made of a suitable plain white cardboard. The size shall be printed or stamped on the upper left hand corner in black or blue ink; the lettering sha

30、ll be 1/4 inch in height. 3.5.4 LabeVtag. Each jacket shall be individually barded with a paper tag for personal cloth- ing item. The paper tag shall be standard bleached sulfate having a basis weight of 1 O0 pounds. The paper used for the tags shall have a smooth finish to accept thermal transfer a

31、nd direct print- ing. The tags shall have a hole and shall be attached to each item by a fastener, clearly legible and readable by a scanner. The bar coding element shall be a 13 digit national stock number (NSN). The bar code type shall be a medium to high code density and shall be located so that

32、it is com- pletely visible on the item when it is folded and/or packaged as specified and so that it causes no damage to the item. 3.6 Patterns. The Government shall hish a single size pattern. Upon request, a complete set of patterns may be provided. The pattern generally provides for a seam allowa

33、nce of 3/8 inch, with the exception of the jacket fronts, which have a seam allowance of 1/2 inch for attaching the slide fastener. The government patterns may be used to create the contractors working patterns, how- ever the design and measurements of the patterns shall not be altered in any way, w

34、ith the exception of minor modifications to accommodate automation. 5 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- A-A-55291 9999774 OL7021 27b = A-A-5529 1 3.7 Pattern parts. The component parts of the jacket shall be cut from the specified mate

35、rial in accordance with pattern parts indicated in Table II. TABLE II - LIST OF PATTERN PARTS Material Nomenclature of Dattern parts Cut parts Basic Material Front Back Sleeve Front facing Top collar Under collar Windflap Inside patch pocket Pocket welt Inner pocket Outer pocket Facing extension Col

36、lar tab Quilted Lining Front lining Back lining Sleeve lining cut2 cut 1 cut2 cut 2 cut 1 cut 1 cut 1 cut 2 cut 2 - 1/ cut 2 - 1/ cut 2 - 1/ cut 2 cut 2 cut 2 cut 1 cut 2 Interlining Collar interlining cut 2 Pocket welt interlining . cut2 Windflap interlining cut 1 Collar tab interlining cut 1 Welt

37、pocket stay interlining cut2 - 1/ Ribbing Waistband cut 1 - 1/ Pattenis are sized in the following groups: (X-Short and Short) and (Regular, Long and X-Long). 3.8 Finished measurements. The finished jacket shall conform to the measurements in Table m. Ail measurements are indicated in inches; the ja

38、cket shall be measured laying flat and smooth, with the front slide fastener completely closed. 6 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-A-A-55291 TABLE III - FZNISHED MEASUREMENTS Size XX-Small Small X-Small X-Short Short Regular Long X-Lon

39、g 24-112 Sle Chest (A) I Bottom (E%) X-Short I Short Small Medium 41 28 30-114 45 30-112 31 32 49 33 3 1-314 32-314 25-112 26-112 27-112 29 26 27 28 29-112 31 53 I 35-112 I 32-112 I 33-1/2 Large X-Large 57 38 34-114 60-718 40-112 27-112 28-1/2 30 31-112 29 30-112 32 :ve Length (C) - +112 I - +112 Ix

40、-small I 25 I 26 I 27 I I I X-Long 35 35-314 36-114 - +112 Tolerance I 5112 I - +112 I - +112 I - +112 I - +112 I (A) Chest - Twice the measurement taken across front at base of dole seam from folded edge (Ei) Bottom - Twice the measurement taken fi-om folded edge to folded edge across the bottom of

41、 (C) Sleeve Length - Measurement taken from center of sleeve at neck seam down to bottom of ) Center Back - Measurement taken from center of back undercollar seam to bottom of to folded edge. relaxed waistband ribbing. ribbed cuff. jacket. 4. Regulaton reciuirements. The offerorlcontractor is encour

42、aged to use recovered materials to the maximum extent practicable, in accordance with paragraph 23.403 of the Federal Acquisition Regulation (FAR) to the maximum extent practicable. 5. QUALITY ASSURANCE PROVISIONS 5.1 Certification. The contractor shall certiG and maintain substantiating evidence th

43、at the product offered meets the salient characteristics of this commercial item description, and that the product conforms to the producers own drawings, specifications, standards and quality assurance 7 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,

44、-,-A-A-5529 1 practices. The government reserves the right to require proof of such conformance prior to the first delivery and thereafter as may be otherwise provided for under the provisions of the contract or purchase order. 5.2 Market accewnce criteria. The item offered, or a generic equivalent,

45、 must have been sold to the commercial market or to the Government for at least two years. 5.3 Visual examination. Each jacket shall be examined for the defects listed below in accordance With ANSUASQC-ZIA. EXAMINATIOh Material and workmanship DEFECT Component part omitted, not cut as specified, dis

46、torted, full, tight, or twisted any part of jacket caught in any unrelated row of stitching Hole, cut, tear, smash, bum, drill hole, run, thin place, dye streak, color not as specified, misweave, knot or slub Any finished measurement not as specified Seam: puckered, distorted, pleated, wavy, twisted

47、, irregular or open, loose or tight stitch tension, broken or missing thread or stitch, needle chew, vis- ible mend, edge or raised stitching sewn too close to edge, resulting in damage to cloth, seam allowance not as specified, raw edge Length of fronts at closure uneven at neck or bottom edge by 1

48、14 inch or more Hanger loop omitted, off center by more than 1 inch or ends insecurely :aught in neck seam stitching Permanent fold, pleat, or crease Front pockets: not uniform in size or shape, out of horizontal alignment by nore than 1/4 inch Zollar points uneven in length by more than 1/4 inch Sl

49、ide fastener does not mesh properly, slider binds, catches, sticks or disen- zages from coils, fastener not the type, style, or size specified, slide fastener ape not completely caught in stitching, tape set on too loose or too tight, :awing bulge, twist or fullness on outside when fastener is closed ksible interlining: bubbling, delamination, bleed through . 8 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-