DLA A-A-55113-1993 HANDBAG WOMEN-S SYNTHETIC BLACK《女式合成黑色手袋》.pdf

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1、c . A-A-55113 74 0121136 7T7 1 INCH-POUND A-A-55 11 3 7 JANUARY 1993 COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTION HANDBAG, WOMENS: SYNTHETIC, BLACK The General Services Administration has authorized the use of to MIL-H-43981. this Commercial Item Description in preference ABSTRACT Abstract. The simulated leather han

2、dbag shall intended for use by female personnel of the US Air Force (Class 2). Classification. The handbag shall be of the fo specified: be of one type, Army (Class 1) and lowing classes as Class 1 - Handbag with brass hardware Class 2 - Handbag with chrome hardware SALIENT CHARACTERISTICS General D

3、escription. The handbag is rectangular in shape with three separate inside compartments and a shoulder strap that is both removable and adjustable. outermost rows of the shoulder strap shall be 3/4 inch and the gage between the inner rows shall be 5/16 inch. An interlock stitch shall be used. The ba

4、g .is lined with bengaline, and the center compartment lining has a pocket with a slide fastener closure. The bag has an outside back pocket lined with bengaline, and the handbag is closed by means of a twist lock and flap plate. The gage of stitching between the Beneficial comments (recommendations

5、, additions, deletions) and any pertinent data which may be of use in improving this document should be addressed to: Center, Clothing and Textiles Directorate, Attn: DPSC-FSSD, 2800 South 20th Street, Philadelphia, PA 19101-8419, by using the Standardization Document Improvement Proposal (DD Form 1

6、426) appearing at the end of this document or by letter. Defense Personnel Support AMSC N/A FSC 8445 DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited. O Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-A-A-55113 = 99999

7、7Y 0121L37 b33 A-A-5 5 11 3 Material. Base fabric. The base fabric prior to coating shall be a black, 5 harness cotton sateen woven cloth, napped on one side, weighing 7.0 to 7.8 ounces per square yard with a minimum of 60 yarns per inch in the warp and 56 yarns per inch in the filling. Coated fabri

8、c. The base fabric shall be coated on the napped side only with a polyurethane suitable compound and pigmented black in color. The coated fabric shall be embossed with a sifnulated leather grain and shall match the standard sample for coLor, grain and finish. The coated fabric shall conform to the f

9、ollowing: Characteristic Requirement ( Minimum ) Test Method Weight (ozs./sq. yd.) Breaking Strength (pbunds ) Warp Filling Tedring Strength (pounds ) Warp 10.0 to 12.0 60 70 5. Filiing 2.6 Adhesion of coating 17 (pdunds/2 inch width) ASTM-D 3776 (Option C) ASTM-D 5034 (Grab Method) ASTM-D 1424 5970

10、 of FED-STD-191 Linina material. The cloth for the inside lining and center zipper pocket shall be a black rayon warp/cotton filling beqgaline. The warp yarn shall be a continuous multifilament viscose, and the filling yarn shall be a combed cotton. The finished cloth shall conform to the requiremen

11、ts specified below. As an alternate, the cloth for the lining and zipper pocket shall be either a 2 up, 1 down twill, or a plain weave, color black, consisting of 100% staple or texturized filament polyester, or a staple polyester and cotton blend of not less than 47% polyester, or a staple polyeste

12、r and staple rayon blend of not less than 47% polyester. The finished cloth shall conform to the following: characteristic Requirement (Minimum) Test Method BenRaline lininq: Weight (oz./sq. yd.) 5.0 ASTM-D 3776 (Option C) 2 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted withou

13、t license from IHS-,-,-A-A-55113 9999974 0121138 57T A-A-55 11 3 Characteristic Requirement Test Method (Minimum) Breaking Strength (pounds ) Warp Filling Yarns Per Inch (ends/inch) Warp Filling ASTM-D 5034 (Grab Method) 100 65 ASTM-D 3775 140 32 Colorfastness to Grade 3 Crocking Alternate lininq: W

14、eight (oz./sq. yd.) Breaking Strength (pounds ) Warp Filling Yarns Per Inch (picks/inch) m Filling Warp 4.3 72 55 73 46 Colorfastness to Grade 3 Crocking AATCC 8 L/ ASTM-D 3776 (Option C) 2/ (Grab Method) ASTM-D 5034 ASTM-D 3775 AATCC 8 L/ - i/ AATCC Chromatic Transference Scale. - 2/ A 15% minus to

15、lerance will be permitted for 100% polyester cloth. Interlininq material. The felt (acetate, cotton or polyester) interlining shall weigh 3.0 to 5.0 ounces per square yard when tested as specified in test method ASTM-D 3776 (Option C), and shall have a thickness of 0.051 +. 0.015 inches when tested

16、as specified in test method ASTM-D 1777 (at 0.6 psi.). Paperboard. The paperboard used for stiffening shall be made from high-alpha cellulose wood pulp fiber impregnated with 25% 5 5% blended neoprene. The paperboard shall show a thickness of 0.035 2 0.003 inches, a weight of 90 2 5 pounds per 1000

17、square feet, a minimum bursting strength of 139 pounds per inch, and stiffness - in the machine direction of 280 2 70 gram-cm, and in the cross direction of 120 2 30 gram-cm, when tested as specified according to the following TAPP1 test methods: T-411 for Thickness, T-410 for Weight, T-403 for Burs

18、ting Strength, and T-489 for Stiffness. 3 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-A-A-55113 m 9999974 0121139 4Ob m A-A-55 11 3 Bogus Pager. The bogus paper used for lining component parts shall be made from wood pulp fibers. The shade of the

19、 bogus pager shall approximate the shade of the coated fabric and shall show a thickness of 0.018 2 0.002 inches, and a weight of 70 5 4 pounds per 1000 square feet when tested as specified according to TAPP1 test methods T-411 for Thickness and T-410 for Weight. Adhesive. The material for bonding c

20、oated fabric, fabric, and paper shall be a natural rubber or neoprene rubber solvent cement. Thread. for pol tested The thread for all inside and lining stitching, except .yurethane components, shall be a 36/3 cotton count when as specified according to test method ASTM-D 1907. The color of the thre

21、ad shall be Black Shade AA, C.A. 66043, of DoD Standard Color Card of Official Standardized Shades for Sewing Threads 1968. The thread for stitching all polyurethane components shall be a suitable 3 ply spun nylon sewing thread averaging 6000 to 8000 yards per pound when tested as specified accordin

22、g to test method ASTM-D 1907. The color of the thread shall be Black Shade AA, C.A. 66043, of DoD Standard Color Card of Official Standardized Shades for Sewing Threads 1968. Metal Parts. LOOP rinus. The loop rings used for attaching the shoulder strap to the center pocket side loops shall be a comm

23、ercially acceptable 0.160 to 0.165 inch diameter steel wire, 1-3/8 inches in length by 7/16 inches in width, approximate inside dimensions. The finish for class 1 shall be 0.0001 to 0.0003 inch nickel plate, followed by flash brass plating, coated with a baked lacquer finish. The finish for class 2

24、shall be 0.0002 inch minimum nickel plate, followed by a 0.00001 inch minimum bright finish chromium plating. The double loop ring used for adjusting the shoulder strap shall copsist of two commercially acceptable oval rings, of 0.1055 to 0.135 inch diameter brass wire, 7/8 inches in length by 3/8 i

25、nches in width, approximate inside dimensions. The rings shall Be joined with a brass binder, 0.020 2 0.001 inch in thickness, that shall hold the rings firmly together in a flat plane, and shall not disengage or rotate along its axis with normal thumb pressure. The finish for class 1 and 2 shall be

26、 a baked-on black semi-gloss enamel. W. The twist lock and flap plate securing the front flap of the handbag shall conform to Fulford Manufacturing Company, Part numbers: 9086, 7781, 8989 and 8902, or a commercially acceptable equal. The finish for class 1 shall be 0.0001 to 0.0003 inch nickel plate

27、, followed by flash brass plating, then coated with a baked lacquer finish. The finish for class 2 shall be 0.0002 inch nickel plate, followed by a 0.00001 inch minimum bright finish chromium plating. 4 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,

28、-. the front of-the handbag 1-1/4 inches up from the bottom from outside to outside of the welt. m I A-A-55113 m 9999974 0121140 128 = I 5 A-A-5 5 11 3 Base stop and stud. The base stops shall be brass half-ball, approximately 5/16 inches in diameter, with steel stud, conforming to Fulford Manufactu

29、ring Company, Part number 9526 and P-296 or equal. The dimensions of the base stop and stud shall be as shown on Figure 1. Snap fasteners. The snap fasteners shall be an intermediate size, 4 part snap with a line 20 cap, and dull black chemical finish conforming to Scovill Fasteners Incorporated, Pa

30、rt numbers: Cap - 61-0100-0161; Socket - 61-0301-0161; Stud - 61-0258-0161; Post - 61-0345-0161; or a commercially acceptable equal. Slide fastener. The slide fastener for the handbag pocket shall be a lightweight, nonseparating, nonreversible, brass chain or continuous element, monofilament polyest

31、er coil, with a short tab pull and no lock on the slider. The color of the tape shall be Black Shade G, Cable No. 66507, and the length shall be approximately 7 inches. Finished measurements. The handbag shall conform to the following finished measurements: a. Length shall be 10-1/4 inches t 1/8 inc

32、h measured across b. Height shall be 7-1/4 inches, + 1/4 inch, - 1/8 inch, measured on the front of the handbag one inch in from either end at the bottom, from the bottom to the top of the bag with the flap closed. c. Width of the shoulder strap shall be 1 inch 2 1/8 inch. d. Width of the flap shall

33、 be 6-3/8 inches f: 1/8 inch measured near the center of the flap from the bottom folded edge to the edge of the joining seam at the top, with the flap open and flat. Label/Markinq. A commercial type white non-woven material label shall be used measuring not less than 3 inches by 1-1/2 inches. The b

34、asic cloth shall consist of either spunbonded polyester made from 4.0 denier (.44 Tex) continuous filament white polyester fiber or 80/20 polyester/cellulose material, impregnated and coated with a permanent pigmented acrylic or nitrocellulose composition affixed by an appropriate acrylic or nitroce

35、llulose resin. To position, center identification label from side edges with top of label 1/2 to 1 inch from finished top edge of handbag on front lining panel of center pocket and stitch around four sides through lining material and bogus paper. The label shall read from top opening of handbag to b

36、ottom end. Stitching shall not be through printing. Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-. A-A-5 5 1 13 Patterns. The government shall furnish a single size pattern. The pattern generally provides for a seam allowance of 1/2 inch fol joini

37、ng seams. Commercial patterns may be used in lieu of the goviernment furnished pattern provided they conform to the cited deaign and finished measurement. Woakmanship. After completion, the finished handbag shall be thoroughly cleaned, and all loose thread and foreign matter removed. Product Demonst

38、ration Model. When required, offerors shall sumit samples of their intended production. The Product Demonstration Model will consist of units independently developed. Product Demonstration Models will be analyzed and evaluated by the government. Evaluation criteria and basis for award are contained

39、in the solicitation. Product Demonstration Models will be retained by the government. One (1) Product Demonstration Model approved by DPSC under the resultant contract will serve as a manufacturing standard for the corresponding production items delivered under this contract. Offerors are advised th

40、at the Product Demonstration Model does not relieve the successful offeror of his responsibility to perform in accordance with the Commercial Item Description specified above. QUALITY ASSURANCE Certification. The contractor shall certify and maintain substantiating evidence that the product offered

41、meets the salient characteristics of this Commercial Item Description, and tht the product conforms to the producers own drawings, spkcifications, standards, and quality assurance practices. The Government reserves the right to require proof of such conformance prior to first delivery and thereafter

42、 as may be otherwise provided for under the provisions of the contract. Examination. The handbag shall be inspected in accordance with AN area of synthetic leather with no finish or not proper embossed print; variation in color, shade, or texture of grain on exterior of handbag when flap is closed;

43、raw edges of synthetic leather or bogus paper not stained as required; color variation in bag interior. 6 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-I c A-A-55113 m 74 0121142 TTO m A-A- 5 5 11 3 Material defects and workmanship damages: Any hol

44、e, cut, tear, or scratch; uncoated area; coated cloth wrinkled, creased, blistered, cracked, or lumpy; any thinly coated area evidenced by light area or window. O Cleanness: Any permanent spot or stain on exterior of handbag; any permanent spot or stain on interior of handbag; thread not trimmed. Co

45、mponent and assembly: Any component part required omitted; strap reversed; edge of bengaline lining exposed beyond coated fabric flap edge, up to 1/16 inch inclusive, or more than 1/16 inch; bottom edge of flap not centered on front pocket when closed, up to 1/8 inch inclusive, or more than 1/8 inch

46、. Seams and stitchings: Accuracy of seaming - any part of handbag caught in unrelated operation or stitching; stitching overlapped less than three stitches on label, or less than 1/2 inch on all other stitching; various shades of thread used on outside of same handbag; puckering or pleating on inter

47、ior or exterior of handbag; needle chews; any row of stitching omitted; stitching margin not as specified or irregular; any open seam. Gage of stitching and seam allowances: irregular, i.e., unevenly gaged or corresponding stitching not uniformly gaged; width not as specified or not within range of

48、gage specified or varies more than 1/16 inch when no range is specified; seam or stitch type not as specified. Stitch tension: loose tension, resulting in a loose seam or exposed loops of top or bottom thread; tight tension resulting in cutting of material or thread breaks when strain is applied in

49、the direction of the seam or stitching. 0 Hardware: Broken or malformed; corroded areas, burrs, or sharp edges; finish omitted or not as specified; improperly set, reversed, not attached securely, or failing to serve intended purpose; finish not smooth; contains scratches, streaks, or other visible defects, clinched tightly cutting the fabric. Label: Not positioned as specified; missing, incorrect, or illegible. Dimensional Examination. The finished hand