DLA A-A-50199 A-2006 THREAD POLYESTER CORE COTTON OR POLYESTER-COVERED《棉或聚酯覆盖聚酯线》.pdf

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1、 A-A-50199A INCH-POUND July 31, 2006 SUPERSEDING A-A-50199 June 30, 1989 COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTION THREAD, POLYESTER CORE, COTTON OR POLYESTER-COVERED The General Services Administration has authorized the use of this Commercial Item Description as a replacement for MIL-T-43548 by all federal agen

2、cies. 1. SCOPE. Commercial sized thread for machine sewing of clothing and other light-medium weight textile assembly applications. 2. CLASSIFICATION. Type I - Cotton-covered Type II - Polyester-covered 3. SALIENT CHARACTERISTICS. Each ply of the thread shall consist of a continuous, multifilament p

3、olyester end, spun with one or more ends of cotton, or high tenacity staple polyester roving to cover the multifilament polyester end. The direction of the final twist shall be “Z”, unless otherwise specified. The thread shall be as specified below in Table I. Comments, suggestions, or questions on

4、this document should be addressed to: Defense Supply Center Philadelphia, Clothing and Textiles Directorate, Attn: DSCP Standardization Team, 700 Robbins Avenue, Philadelphia, PA 19111-5096. Since contact information can change, you may want to verify the currency of this address information using A

5、cquisition Streamlining and Standardization Information System (ASSIST) online database at http:/assist.daps.dla.mil. AMSC N/A FSC 8310 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-A-A-50199A TABLE I. Physical Characteristics Tex 1/ (sizes) Ply Le

6、ngth per pound, (yards) Breaking strength, lbs. (min) Elongation % (max) Range Nominal Type I Type II 21-24 2 20,500 1.4 1.8 30 25-30 2 16,750 2.0 2.4 30 31-35 2 13,750 2.6 3.0 30 36-45 2 11,250 3.2 3.7 30 46-60 2 or 3 9,000 4.0 4.7 30 61-70 2 or 3 7,250 5.0 6.1 32 71-105 2, 3 or 4 5,550 6.8 7.2 32

7、106-150 2, 3 or 4 3,850 9.9 10.8 32 151-210 2, 3 or 4 2,600 13.0 14.1 32 1/ Tex size based on weight in grams / 1,000 meters thread. 3.1 Physical Requirements: The thread shall conform to the requirements in Table II. TABLE II. Physical requirementsCharacteristicRequirementTest methodTex (Ticket) Si

8、ze Ply Length/lb Breaking Strength Elongation Direction of Final Twist See Table I See Table I See Table I See Table I See Table I See 3.0 ASTM D 3823 Visual ASTM D 1907 1/ ASTM D 204 2/ ASTM D 204 2/ ASTM D 204 Colorfastness: Laundering (after 3 cycles) Dry heat 3760+ 60 F Light (after 40 hrs or 17

9、0 kJ) Wet dry-cleaning (when specified) Perspiration (when specified) Weathering (after 80 hrs) (when specified) 3-4 min. 3-4 min. 3-4 min. 3-4 min. 3-4 min. 3-4 min. AATCC 61 Test 3A 3/, 4/ AATCC 117 3/AATCC 16 Option 1or 3 3/ AATCC 132 3/ 5/AATCC 15 3/ 5/ AATCC 169 3/Fiber Content Fiber Identifica

10、tion ASTM D 276 or AATCC 20 Non- Wicking Finish (when specified) See 3.7 See 3.7.1 2 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-A-A-50199A 1/ In case of dispute, the length per pound of thread may be determined on the thread after removal of fin

11、ish. ( yards/lb = 453.6 x # of yards in specimen) wgt of specimen in gm 2/ Five determinations shall be made on the sample unit. 3/ AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1, Gray Scale for Color Change (see 3.7, 3.7.1) 4/ The color transfer cloth evaluation shall not apply. No appreciable change in shade or los

12、s of color of the tested specimen shall be visible when compared to the untested thread. 5/ AATCC Evaluation Procedure 2, Gray Scale for Staining 3.2 Color. The color shall be as specified in the applicable end item specification or in the contract order. The dyed thread shall conform to the applica

13、ble approved shade standard. The shade of the polyester core shall approximate that of the cotton or staple polyester covering. 3.3 Labile Sulfur. Use of dyes and compounds containing elementary sulfur capable of oxidation to sulfuric acid, is not permitted. 3.4 Finish removal procedure. Before eval

14、uation for shade matching and testing for colorfastness, except for colorfastness to wet dry cleaning, the thread shall be wet dry cleaned in accordance with AATCC-132. Excess solvent shall be removed by centrifuging or wringing. The sample shall then be rinsed in distilled water at 120 to 160F and

15、dried at a temperature not exceeding 180F. The dried sample shall then be conditioned for a minimum of 4 hours prior to evaluation for shade matching or colorfastness. 3.5 Visual shade matching. The color and appearance of the finished thread, after removal of finish (see 3.4), shall match the stand

16、ard sample when viewed using AATCC Evaluation Procedure 9, Option A, with sources stimulating artificial daylight D75 illuminant with a color temperature of 7500 + 200 K, with illumination of 100 + 20 foot candles, and shall be a good match to the standard sample under incandescent lamplight at 2856

17、 + 200 K. 3.6 Finishing materials. The finished thread shall have no chemical finishes or treatments other than those commonly used, i.e. water-repellent, etc, on commercial threads which have been demonstrated to have no deleterious effects on the polyester fiber, including effects of prolonged sto

18、rage. There shall be no noticeable wicking of any treatment to adjacent material when sewn. No finish or treatment shall be applied for the purpose of increasing breaking strength. 3.7 Non-wicking Finish. When specified, the thread shall be finished with a non-wicking finish uniformly applied. The f

19、inished thread shall resist the wicking of water when tested as specified 3.7.1. 3.7.1 Vertical Resistance to wicking: The thread shall be water repellent treated so that the treated thread shall resist the wicking of water for a period of not less than 2 hours when tested as follows: The test speci

20、men shall consist of a 20 strand skein of thread in one continuous 30 yard length made on a 54 inch periphery skein reel. The skein shall be reeled under enough tension to cause the strands in the skein to lie uniformly, side by side, on the reel. The finishing end of the skein shall be tied to the

21、starting end o f the skein in such a manner that the knot will not add additional length to the reel skein. The skein shall be hung over the movable crossbar of 3 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-A-A-50199A a laboratory stand with the

22、other end hanging over the vessel. The movable crossbar shall raise 28 inches or more above the base. A non-ferrous to 7/8 ounce weight shall be placed in the lower catenary of the skein to keep it taut and straight. The skein shall be arranged so that the strands are touching each other in flat rib

23、bon form. The vessel shall be filled to a depth of at least 5 inches with distilled water at room temperature which has been mixed with blue food coloring, (salt and wetting agent free). A piece of blotting paper shall be attached by means of a paper clip or similar clamp to one full side (20 strand

24、s) of the skein, 3 inches above the lower catenary of the skein. The position of crossbar shall be adjusted that when the skein is hung freely in the liquid, 2 inches of the skein will be immersed in the liquid and the lower edge of the blotter is 1 inch above the liquid surface. The skein shall the

25、n be slowly lowered into the dye bath and the time of entry shall be noted. Depending on the dimensions of the vessel and the length of the crossbar, several specimens can be tested at the same time in the same dye bath by handing the skeins sufficiently apart on the crossbar. The skein shall be exp

26、osed for 2 hours. The blotter shall be examined for wetting or staining at least every hour. The test shall be terminated whenever staining or wetting of the blotter is observed within the 2 hour test duration. 3.8 Put-up. Unless otherwise specified, the thread shall be put-up on holders such as com

27、mercial spools, cones, or tubes as specified in the contract. The thread shall be wound around the specified holder in one continuous piece, so that each turn and layer is free of entanglement. The outside ending of the thread shall be secured to prevent unwinding, loosening, or slippage during hand

28、ling, shipping, or storage. 3.9 Labeling. Each holder shall have a label, adhered securely so as to remain in place and be clearly legible until all thread has been removed. The label shall be printed and shall include information related to length in yards, direction of twist, color, size, ply, nam

29、e of thread manufacturer, weight, yards/pound and nomenclature specifying fiber and construction fiber and construction type. 3.10 Workmanship. The finished thread shall conform to the quality of product established by this document. The thread shall average not more than one full thread knot or spl

30、ice per 1,000 yards. The occurrence of defects shall not exceed the contractors own quality assurance standards and the quality assurance standards defined by the technical data in the bid package. 3.11 Toxicity. The finished fabric shall not present a health hazard when used as intended and tested

31、as specified in 4.1 4. REGULATORY REQUIREMENTS. The offeror/contractor is encouraged to use recovered materials to the maximum extent practicable, in accordance with paragraph 23.403 of the Federal Acquisition Regulation (FAR). 4.1 Toxicity test. The contractor must furnish information, which certif

32、ies that the finished product is composed of materials, which have been safely used commercially or provide sufficient toxicity data to show compatibility with prolonged, direct skin contact. At a minimum, toxicity data should include results from a primary dermal irritation study in laboratory anim

33、als and a repeated insult human patch test (Modified Draize Procedure). The latter must be 4Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-A-A-50199A conducted under the supervision of a qualified dermatologist using at least 100 free-living individ

34、uals. 4.1.2. Toxicity documents. All finishes/chemicals used to process the garment shall be identified and accompanied by the appropriate Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) information. The use of chemicals recognized by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) as human carcinogens is prohibited. 5

35、. PRODUCT CONFORMANCE PROVISIONS. 5.1 Product Conformance. The products provided shall meet the salient characteristics of this Commercial Item Description, conform to the producers own drawings, specifications, standards, and quality assurance practices, and be the same product offered for sale in

36、the commercial marketplace. The government reserves the right to require proof of such conformance. 6. PACKAGING. 6.1 Packaging. Preservation, packing, and marking shall be specified on the contract or order. 7. NOTES. 7.1 Source of Government documents. Copies of Military and Federal documents are

37、available online at http:/assist.daps.dla.mil/quicksearch/ or from the Standardization Documents Order Desk, 700 Robbins Avenue, Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094. 7.1.1 Other Government Documents. FEDERAL ACQUISTION REGULATIONS (FAR). (Available online at http:/acquisition.gov/far/index.html or by contac

38、ting the Superintendent of Documents at 202-512-1800). 7.2 Non-Government publications. AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC) (Standards are available online at www.aatcc.org or from the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists, P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangl

39、e Park, NC 27709-2215). ASTM INTERNATIONAL (Standards are available online at www.astm.org or from ASTM INTERNATIONAL, 100 Barr harbor Drive, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959). 5Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-A-A-50199A 7.3 Other pub

40、lications. Principle and Methods of Toxicology, A Wallace Hayes (editor), pp 394-396, 1989. (Copies of this document is available from Raven Press, 1185 Avenue of the Americas, New York, NY 10036.) Marzulli, F. and H. Maibach, “Contact Allergy: Predictive Testing in Humans,”Advances in Modern Toxico

41、logy, Volume 4, pp 353-372, 1977. (Copies of this document are available from the U.S. Army Center for Health Promotion and Preventative Medicine, ATTN: MCHB-DC-TTE, Bldg., E-2100, Aberdeen Proving Ground, MD 21010-5422.) 7.4 Standard samples. Address the contracting activity issuing the invitation

42、for bids or request for proposal. Standard samples are also available at DSCP through http:/warfighter.dla.mil under tab “Vendor Info” then “Specifications/Pattern Request” under “Special Instructions” provide color shade, roll number and solicitation/contract number. 7.5 Ordering data. a. CID docum

43、ent number, title and revision date. b. Type, size and ply of thread required. (see Table I) c. Colorfastness properties required (3.1) d. Color required. (see 3.2) e. Put-up required. (3.7) f. Product conformance provisions. (see 5.1) g. Packaging requirements. (see 6.1) 7.6 Replacement data. The t

44、hread types covered are listed by Tex (sizes) the corresponding Ticket numbers are listed below. Tex Sizes Ticket Number Range Sizes 21-24 120 25-30 100 31-35 70 36-45 50 46-60 40 61-70 30 71-105 24 106-150 16 151-210 12 6Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without l

45、icense from IHS-,-,-A-A-50199A 7.7 Key words. Assembly Applications, Textile Clothing Machine, Sewing MILITARY INTERESTS: CIVIL AGENCY COORDINATING ACTIVITY: Custodians: GSA FSS Army GL Navy NU PREPARING ACTIVITY: Air Force 99 DLA-CT Review Activities: Army MD (Project 8310-2005-001) Navy - MC Air F

46、orce - 11 *NOTE: The activities listed above were interested in this document as of the date of this document. Since organizations and responsibilities can change, you should verify the currency of the information above using ASSIST Online database at http:/assist.daps.dla.mil . 7Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-