NAVY MIL-S-87046 A-1986 SHIRT UTILITY MAN-S POLYESTER COTTON (CG)《CG聚酯棉男士用衬衫》.pdf

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1、MIL-S-8704bA 4 W 77777Ob 0430302 O W MIL-S-87046A(CG) 12 November 1986 SUPERSEDING MIL-S-87046 27 October 1978 MILITARY SPECIFICATION SHIRT, UTILITY, MANS, POLYESTER/COTTON (CG) *This specification is approved for use by the United States Coast Guard, Department of Transportation, and is available f

2、or use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense. 1. SCOPE 1.1 Scope. This specification covers the requirements for a polyester and cotton blend work shirt. 1.2 Classification. The shirts shall be in the following types and sizes (see 6.2). 1.2.1 Types. TYP 1 - Short Sleeve Type

3、II - Long Sleeve * 1.2.2 Sizes. Collar Sleeve length (Type II only) Extra Small (13-13 1/2) 31 Small (14-14 1/2) Medium (15-15 1/2) Large (16-16 1/2) Extra Large (17-17 1/2) 32 33 34 35 Beneficial comments (recommendations, additions, deletions) and any pertinent data which may be of use in improvin

4、g this document should be addressed to: Officer in Charge, Navy Clothing and Textile Research Facility, 21 Strathmore Road, Natick, MA 01760-2490 by using the self-addressed Standardization Document Improvement Proposal (DD Form 1426) appearing at the end of this document or by letter . AMSC N/A FSC

5、 8405 DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. -Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited. THIS DOCUMENT CONTAINS 38 PAGES. Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS 2.1 Government documents. *2.1.1 Specifications, standar

6、ds, and handbooks The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this specification to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents shall be those listed in the issue of the Department of Defense Index of Specifications and Standards (

7、DoDISS) and supplement thereto, cited in the solicitation. SPECIFICATIONS FEDERAL NN-P-71 DDD-L-2 O MILITARY MIL-P-15 O11 MIL-B-17143 MIL-B-17757 MIL-C-2 9140 MIL-T-43548 MIL-P-55010 STANDARDS FEDERAL * - Pallets, Material Handling, Wood, Stringer - Label: for Clothing, Equipage and Tentage Construc

8、tion, 2 and 4 Way (Partial). (General Use) - Pallets, Material Handling, Wood, Post - Button, Insignia (Anchor, Plastic, Black) - Boxes, Shipping, Fiberboard (Modular Sizes) - Cloth, Basket Weave, Polyester/Cotton (Crease - Thread, Polyester, Cotton-Covered and Rayon Covered - Plastic, Sheet, Polyet

9、hytlene Terephthalate Construction, 4-Way Entry Resistant Finish) FED-STD-193 - Textile Test Methods FED-STD-751 - Stitches, Seams, and Stitchings MILITARY MIL-STD-105 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes MIL-STD-12 9 MIL-STD-147 - Palletized Unit Loads - Marking for Shipmen

10、t and Storage (Copies of specifications, standards, drawings, and publications required by contractors in connection with specific procurement functions should be obtained from the procuring activity or as directed by the contracting officer 1 2 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networ

11、king permitted without license from IHS-,-,-2.1.2 Other Government documents, drawings, and publications. The following other Government documents, drawings, and publications form a part of this specification to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues shall be those in ef

12、fect on the date of the solicitation. LAWS AND REGULATIONS US POSTAL SERVICE MANUAL (Copies of the manual may be obtained from the Superintendent of Documents, US Governmnt Printing Off ice, Washington, DC 20402) * 2.2 Other publications. The following document(s) form a part of this specification t

13、o the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of documents which are DoD adopted shall be those listed in the issue of the Department of Defense Index of Specifications and Standards (DoDISS) and supplement thereto, cited in the solicitation. TECHNICAL MANUAL OF THE AMERICAN

14、ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (Application for copies of the AATCC Manual should be addressed to the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists, Research Triangle Park, Post Office Box 12215, Durham, NC 27709.) NATIONAL MOTOR FREIGHT TRAFFIC ASSOCIATION, INC., AGENT Natio

15、nal Motor Freight Classification (Application far copies should be addressed to the American Trucking - Association, Attn: Traffic Department, 1616 P Street, N.W. Washington, DC 20036). UNIFORM CLASSIFICATION COMMITTEE, AGENT Uniform Freight Classification (Application for copies should be addressed

16、 to the Uniform Classification Committee, Room 1106, 222 South Riverside Plaza, Chicago, Illinois 60606). DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE STANDARD COLOR CARD OF OFFICIAL STANDARDIZED SHADES FOR SEWING THREAD DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE STANDARD SHADES FOR BUTTONS (Application for copies may be obtained from the Col

17、or Association of the United States, Inc., 343 Lexington Avenue, New York, NY 10016). 3 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-S-8704bA 84 m 7779706 04L0305 b m 2.3 Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this

18、 specification and the references cited herein, the text of this specification shall take precedence. Nothing in this specification, however, shall supersede applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained. 3. REQUIREMENTS 3.1 Guide sample. Samples, when furnished, are

19、solely for guidance and information to the contractor (see 6.31, Variations from this specification may appear in the sample in which case this specification shall govern. 3.2 First article. When specified, the contractor shall furnish sample unit(s) for first article inspection and approval (see 4.

20、3 and 6.2). 3.3 Material. 3.3,1 Basic material. The basic material shall be cloth, basket weave polyester/cotton conforming to Type I, MIL-C-29140. The color shall match shade Blue 3362. *3.3.2 Thread. The thread for seaming and stitching shall be covered polyester conforming to ticket No. 50, 30 an

21、d 70, 2 or 3 ply, of MIL-T-43548. The color of the thread shall be shade Blue AR Cable No. 66058 of Department of Defense Standard Shades for Sewing Thread. * 3.3.2.1 Colorfastness of thread. The dyed thread shall show fastness to laundering, perspiration, and light equal to or better than the stand

22、ard sample when tested as specified in MIL-T-43548. When no standard sample is available, the dyed thread shall show good fastness to laundering, perspiration, and light when tested as specified in MIL-T-43548. *3.3.3 Buttons. The buttons shall be 25 line anchor insignia design conforming to class I

23、 of MIL-B-17143. black BT, Cable No.62001,cited in the Department of Defense Standard for Button shades (see 2.2), and shall have a glossy finish. The button shall match DoD Button shade 3.3.4 Label. * 3.3.4.1 Combination label. Each shirt shall have a combination identification, instruction and per

24、sonal label conforming to type VI, classes 10 and 15 of DDD-L-20. The inscription shall be as follows: The label shall show colorfastness to laundering. Name : Service No: Shirt, Utility, Mans, Polyester/Cotton Fiber Content: Polyester (65%) and Cotton (35%) Contract No: DLA 100-0-0-0000 (EXAMPLE) N

25、ame of Contractor: 4 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-Laundering Instructions: Machine Wash Warm, NO BLEACH Tumble Dry Medium Heat - Remove Promptly 3.3.4.2 Size label. Each shirt shall have a size label conforming to type IV or VI, Cl

26、ass 2 of DDD-L-20. The label shall be sufficiently sized to indicate size, sleeve length (when applicable) and stock number. The inscription shall be as follows: M - 33 SL (EXAMPLE) (Type II only) M - (EXAMPLE) (Type I only) Stock Number 8405-00-000-0000 (EXAMPLE) Abbreviation for the applicable siz

27、e shall be XS for Extra Small; S for Small; M for Medium; L for Large; XL for Extra Large and sleeve length shall be SL. 3.3.5 Interlining, fusible. The topcollar, pocket flaps, and cuffs (Type II) shall be fused. The fused sample, consisting of fusible interlining and -. basic fabric, shall conform

28、 to the requirements stated below when tested as specified in 4.4.2.1 and 4.5. The color of the fusible shall be grey or black. Component testing requirements Appearance of fused sample Initial - No evidence of bubbling, color change or bleed through After 25 launderings - No evidence of bubbling or

29、 delamination Stiffness, inch/lbs X (Average of six samples, three tested fusible side up and three tested fusible side down) Initial Warp Filling Min. 47 Max. Min. 14 Max. 96 30 After 25 launcaAng - Samples sha 1 retain a minimum of 20% of its original measured stiffness. Peel Strength Initial Min.

30、 22 oz Af-ter 25 laundering Min. 16 oz In process Testing Requirements Appearance of fused sample - No evidence of bubbling, color change or bleed through Peel strength Min. 20 OZ. 5 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-S-70YbA 84 7777

31、40b 0430307 T W 3.3.5.1 Fusible thickness. The thickness of the fusible interlining shall not measure greater than 0.030 inch when tested as specified in 4.4.2. 3.3.6 Collar stay. The collar stay shall be made from polyethylene tereDhthalate plastic sheet conforming to MIL-P-55010 except the thickne

32、ss shali be 0.010-2 0.001 inch, the color-shall be natural (clear or opaque) and the transparency and optical properties shall not apply. The stay shall measure not less than 1/4 inch or more than 3/8 inch wide and 3 (5 1/16) inches long when tested as specified in 4.4.2. Both ends shall be round, p

33、ointed, cut on an angle or any combination thereof. When other than round, points shall be rounded. 3.4 Design. The Type II long sleeved shirt shall be made with a convertible collar and have a six button front, (extra small shall have a five button front) squared off bottom, and two outside breast

34、patch pockets with button down flaps, with the left flap having a pencil opening. The top collar and the top ply of each pocket flap and cuff shall have a fusible interlining fused to it. The squared-off sleeve cuffs shall have two buttons on each cuff and the sleeve openings shall have a continuous

35、 binding (See figure 2). The Type I shirt shall be similar in design and construction features, except that it shall have short sleeves (see figure 1). 3.4.1 Figures. Figures 1 and 2 are furnished for information purposes only. To the extent of any inconsistencies between the specification and the f

36、igure, the specification shall govern. 3.5 Patterns. Standard patterns to be used to cut working patterns will be furnished by the Government (see 6.3). The patterns allow 1/2 (+ 1/16) inch seam allowance for all seams, except as otherwise indicated in Table I. The working patterns shall be identica

37、l to the Government patterns. Neither the Government patterns nor the working patterns shall be altered in any way. * 3.5.1 specified and in accordance with the following list of pattern parts. Pattern parts. The component parts shall be cut from the material as Mat erial Pattern Parts Cut Parts Clo

38、th, polyester and cotton Back 1 Front (left and right) 2 Type 1 2 Type II 2 Collar (top and under) 2 Cuff (Type II, only) 4 Pocket (pat ch) 2 Pocket flap 4 L/ Sleeves Sleeve binding (Type II only) 2 l 301 SSaa-1 8-12 50 50 301 SSe-2(a) 8-12 50 50 e. Turn to finished position working out points and o

39、uter edges. 18 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-e MIL-S-8704bA 4 777770b 0410320 2 = MIL- S-87046A(CG) TABLE - I CONSTRUCTION OF SHIRTS THREAD NO OPERATION STCH SEAM/ STCH NDL BOB/ TYPE STCH TYPE IN LPR f. Topstitch 3/16 inch from side

40、s and outer 301 SSe-2(b) 8-12 50 50 edges . 15. Attach collar to body of shirt a. Center the combination label (see 3.3.4.1) 301 LSbj-1 8-12 50 50 ._I on right facing approximately 1-1/2 inches above finished bottom edge and stitch on all four sides (through facing only). b. Fold back left and right

41、 fronts, face to face, at notch to form facing. 3 C. Position the collar between the front and 301 SSa-1 8-12 50 50 facing at the collar notches (3/4 inch from folded facing edge) and stitch from the front edge to within 3/4 (+1/8) inch from the inner edge of the facing, 1/4 inch from the raw edge,

42、Notch through all plies of materials on the neckline at termination of stitches. 0 d. Stitch the undercollar to back at neckline 301 LScg-2(a) 8-12 50 50 between the notches made by the operator, with the stitching 1/4 inch from raw edge. e. Turn facings to finished position working out steps . f. T

43、urn under raw edges of top collar between 301 -2(b) 8-12 50 50 notches and topstitch 1/16 inch gauge simultaneously catching the ends of facing in the stitching and catching the size label (see 3.3.4.2) in the top collar stitching. The label shall be centered (2 1/2 inch) on the inside neckline of s

44、hirt. QR As an alternate, the type IV size label inscription as specified in 3.3.4.2 may be stamped using white ink, centered inside bottom edge of top collar. There shall be no printing visible on outside of finished collar as worn . 19 V Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking p

45、ermitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL- S-87046A(CG) TABLE - I CONSTRUCTION OF SHIRTS THREAD NO. OPERATION S TCH SEAM/ STCH NDL BOB/ TYPE STCH TYPE IN LPR *16. Hem fronts and backs. a. Fold under the bottom of the shirt with the raw edge turned under 3/8 inch, the side seams folded towards the ba

46、ck and the facing turned to the finished position. Stitch through all plies of material 1/16 inch from inner folded edge of hem. b. inch wide. The finished hem shall measure 3/8 (2 1/8) 17. Make buttonholes All shirts shall have six buttonholes in the left front (except extra small which shall have

47、five), one buttonhole in each pocket flap, and one buttonhole in each cuff (Type II only) 301 EFb-1 8-12 50 50 a. Make one horizontal buttonhole at top in left front with inside cut end of buttonhole 1/2 (+ 1/8) inch from front edge and 3/8 (2 1/8) inch below neckline. Butt on- ho le 42-46 50 50 Per

48、 buttonhole not includ- ing tacks b. Make five vertical buttonholes in the left front (except extra small which shall have four) 3/4 (t1/8) inch from edge of front and spaced as indicated by pattern marks. e. One vertical buttonhole shall be centered in each pocket flap 7/8 (t 1/8) inch from the low

49、er edge. The measurement shall be taken from center of buttonhole. d. Make a buttonhole parallel to the long edge of, and centered in each cuff 3/8 to 1/2 inch from edge. (Type II only). 18, Sew on buttons a. All buttons shall align with corresponding buttonholes. The crown of the anchor shall point downward and the stitching shall follow the sewing guide of the buttons. 20 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permit