NAVY MIL-DTL-82163 D-1997 TROUSERS MEN-S - DRESS WHITE《白色衣服男士长裤》.pdf

《NAVY MIL-DTL-82163 D-1997 TROUSERS MEN-S - DRESS WHITE《白色衣服男士长裤》.pdf》由会员分享，可在线阅读，更多相关《NAVY MIL-DTL-82163 D-1997 TROUSERS MEN-S - DRESS WHITE《白色衣服男士长裤》.pdf（35页珍藏版）》请在麦多课文档分享上搜索。

1、 MIL-DTL-82Lb3D Ob 2051b81 317 INCH-POUND MIL- DTL- 8 2 1 63 D ( MC ) 28 July 1997 SUPERSEDING MIL-T-82163C (MC) 30 September 1994 DETAIL SPECIFICATION TROUSERS, MENS - DRESS, WHITE This specification is approved for use by U.S. Marine Corps, Department of the Navy, and is available for use by all D

2、epartments and Agencies of the Department of Defense. 1. SCOPE 1.1. Scope. This specification covers requirements for mens white trousers. 1.2. Classification. following class, styles, and sizes as specified (see 6.2). The trousers will be of one type in the Beneficial comments (recommendations, add

3、itions, deletions) and any pertinent data which may be of use in improving this document should be addressed to the Commander (PSE-D), Marine Corps Systems Command, Quantico, VA 22134-5010 by using the Standardization Document Improvement Proposal Form 1426) appearing at the end of this document or

4、by letter. (DD AMSC N/A FSC 8405 DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. distribution is unlimited. Approved for public release; Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-flIL-DTL-82Lb3D 999990b 2051682 253 MIL-DTL-82163D (MC) Class Class 1 - Gabardine, poly

5、ester and rayon (white) Styles Style A Style B - With side pockets and hip pockets and flaps. - With side pockets only without hip pockets and flaps. Schedule of sizes Waists: 27 through 46 inclusive in X-Short, Short, Regular, Long and X-Long lengths. 1.3. Individual orders. When trousers are custo

6、m tailored to an individual order, this specification shall govern, except the detail requirements of Section 3, Table I may be modified to the extent necessary for good custom tailoring practice. 2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS 2.1. General. in sections 3 and 4 of this specification. include documents cite

7、d in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements documents cited in sections 3 and 4 of this specificatio

8、n, whether or not they are listed. The documents listed in this section are specified This section does not While 2.2. Government documents. 2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified her

9、ein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those listed in the issue of the Department of Defense Index of Specifications and Standards (DoDISS) and supplement thereto, cited in the solicitation (see 6.2). SPECIFICATIONS FEDERAL A-A-50186 - Cloth, Buckram, Woven and Nonwoven

10、2 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-A-A-5 O 19 8 A-A-50 19 9 A-A-52 1 O 6 A-A- 5 2 1 O 8 DDD-L-20 V-B-871 V-F-106 V-T-285 MIL-DTL-8 2 163D (MC) Thread, Gimp, Cotton, Buttonhole Thread, Polyester Core: Cotton; or Polyester-Covered Cloth,

11、 Twill or Plain Weave, Polyester and Polyester Blend Cloth, Interlining, Cotton and Synthetic, or Synthetic Label: For Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage, (General Use) Button, Sewing Hole, and Button, Staple (Plastic) Fastener, Slide, Interlocking Thread, Polyester DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE MIL-C-41820 -

12、Cloth, Gabardine, Polyester and Rayon STANDARDS FEDERAL FED-STD-751 - Stitches, Seams and Stitchings DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE MIL-STD-1488 - Provisions for Evaluating Quality of Trousers (Unless otherwise indicated, copies of the above specifications, standards, handbooks are available from the Standar

13、dization Document Order Desk, 700 Robbins Avenue, Building 4D, Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094.) 2.3. Non-Government publications. The following document(s) form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of the documents which are DoD adopted are thos

14、e listed in the issue of the DoDISS cited in the solicitation. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of documents not listed in the DoDISS are the issues of the documents cited in the solicitation (see 6.2). Department of Defense (DoD) Standard Color Card of Official Standardized Shades for Sewing

15、Threads 1968 Department of Defense (DoD) Standard Shades for Buttons 1966 3 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-. MIL- DTL-8 2 163 D (MC ) * (Application for copies should be addressed to the Color Association of the United States, Inc.,

16、409 W. 44th Street, New York, NY 10016-0927). 2.4. Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a spe

17、cific exemption has been obtained. 3. REQUIREMENTS 3.1. Standard sample. Standard samples are furnished solely for guidance and information to the contractor (see 6.3). Variations from this specification may appear in the sample, in which case the specification shall govern. 3.2. First article. When

18、 specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection in accordance with 4.3. 3.3. Materials. 3.3.1 Basic material. The basic material for the class of trousers shall be cloth, gabardine, polyester and rayon conforming to MIL-C-41820, type III, class I, 8.0-ounce, white, shad

19、e 2400 (see 6.3). 3.3.2 Pocketinq, lininq, and interlining. 3.3.2.1. Pocket and pocket stays. The material for the pockets and pocket stays shall be cloth, polyester, polyester and cotton or polyester and rayon conforming to class 1 of A-A-52106. The color shall be white. 3.3.2.2. Lininq and interli

20、ning. The material for the waistband lining, right fly, pocket flaps, crotch and left fly interlining for each class of trousers shall be cloth, polyester, polyester and cotton, or polyester and rayon conforming to class 1 of A-A-52106 in white shade. 3.3.3 Buckram. The material for interlining the

21、waistband of each class of trousers shall be cloth, buckram, cotton 4.5-ounce, conforming to type II, class 1 of A-A-50186; white (bleached or unbleached). Commercial Ban Roll waistband may be used. 4 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-M

22、IL-DTL- 8 2 1 63 D (MC) 3.3.4 Slide fastener. The slide fastener shall be type I, style 1, cam lock, size LS, short tab pull, brass chain, conforming to V-F-106, except that the salt spray test shall not apply. staple bottom-stop shall be required. shade of the basic fabric for each class of trouser

23、s or white, shade C, cable No. 66503. A The tape shall match the 3.3.5 Thread. 3.3.5.1. Polvester thread. shall be polyester conforming to type I, class 1, size A, 3-ply of V-T-285. As an alternate to the polyester thread, a polyester, cotton-covered thread conforming to A-A-50199, ticket No. 50, 3-

24、ply or ticket No. 70, 2-ply may be used. The thread for all seaming operations 3.3.5.2. Color and colorfastness. The polyester thread shall be white, shade AG, cable No. 66049 (see DoD Standard Color Card of Official Standardized Shades for Sewing Threads 1968). 3.3.6 Gimp. The buttonhole gimp shall

25、 be cotton, No. 8, soft or glazed finish, conforming to type I or type II of A-A-50198. The color of the gimp shall be white, shade AG, cable No. 66049. 3.3.7 Sewinq hole buttons. The sewing hole buttons shall be melamine formaldehyde composition, glossy finish, conforming to type II, class D, style

26、 4, 22-line of V-B-871. The color of the buttons shall be white, shade BA, cable No. 62031 (see DoD Standard Shades for Buttons 1966). 3.3.8 Labels. The labels shall show fastness to laundering. Trousers shall have a combined identification-size instruction label (see 3.3.8.1). 3.3.8.1. Identificati

27、on-size instruction label. The combination identification-size instruction label shall measure not less than 5-1/2 by 2-1/2 inches and shall conform to DDD-L-20, type VI, classes 1, 2 and 3 (combined). The content and format of the label shall be as follows: Nomenclature: Size: Contract number: Name

28、 of contractor: Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-1. 2. 3. MIL-DTL- 8 2 16 3D (MC) LAUNDERING AND PRESSING INSTRUCTIONS Hand a. b. d. C. laundering. Launder in warm water using mild soap. Scrub soiled areas. Rinse thoroughly in clear wa

29、rm water. Dry without wringing. Machine laundering. a. Use a mild detergent. b. Complete washing cycle for 30 minutes in c. d. Set automatic drying for regular fabrics and 120F to 140F water. Rinse thoroughly in clear warm water. dry for 15 minutes. Pressing. a. If pressing is required, use a cool i

30、ron. DO NOT USEAUTOMATIC IRON ABOVE RAYON SETTING DO NOT USE HOT IRON 4. Trousers may be dry cleaned. 3.3.9 Hook and eye. The hook and eye shall be North and Judd (Hook Flex H-49, K-50, H-89 and E-90); Universal Button Co. (Talon #3, #7 and #8 hook with #8 eye or #85 eye); Akim Co. or Patwin, Inc.,

31、Junior Series, type JB; Stimpson (P-536, D-4086, D-4457, D-4288); Rau (OA50, OX 1256, 080415); Patwin, Inc. (Slim-Slak with MB eye, and Slik-Slak); or equal. The finish shall be nickel plate. the contractor shall submit the item with supporting data to the contracting officer for approval. Prior to

32、the use of an “or equal“ item, 3.3.10 Waistband stabilizer. The material for the waistband stabilizer shall be cloth, interlining, cotton or synthetic, and nylon conforming to type I of A-A-52108. 3.4. Desiqn. The trousers shall be the U.S. Marine Corps design shown in Figures 1 and 2, having a two-

33、piece lined waistband with hook and eye closure and outlet at seat seam; french type fly with slide fastener; seven belt loops, straight side pockets; hip 6 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- NIL-DTL-821b3D W O6 2053687 835 W MIL-DTL-8

34、2 163D (MC) Side pocket Hip pocket (style A) Fly lining, right Stay, side pocket Waistband interlining Left fly interlining Crotch lining Pocket flaps (style A) pockets with pocket flaps to button, style A only; outlet from crotch to knee at inseam and unfinished leg bottom. 2 2 1 2 2 2 2 2 3.5. Pat

35、terns. Standard patterns will be furnished to the contractor by the Government. The standard patterns shall not be altered in any way and shall be used only as a guide for cutting the suppliers working patterns. The standards patterns shall provide a seam allowance of 3/8 inch for inseams and outsea

36、ms and 5/8 inch for crotch seam, and allow a seat outlet at the waist in accordance with patterns. inch allowance for bottom turnup of legs. The standard patterns show size, directional lines for cutting, and are marked and notched for proper placement and assembly of the component parts. The standa

37、rd patterns provide a four Waistband interlining 3.5.1 List of pattern parts. Trousers shall be cut from the materials specified in accordance with the pattern parts indicated below: 2 I 3 8 9 10 p 19 PATTERN NOMENCLATURE 1 NO. OF CUT PARTS Yaterial: Basic Front Back Right fly Left fly Side pocket (

38、facing wide) Side pocket (bearer narrow) Bearer and cord facing, hip pocket (style A) Flap, hip pocket (style A) Waistband Belt loop strip Fly tab Material: Cloth, twill or plain weave, polyester/cotton 2 2 1 2 2 2 4 4 2 1 2 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted withou

39、t license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-ZLb3D = 9999906 205Lb88 771 MIL-DTL-82163D (MC) 3.6. Construction. 3.6.1 Manufacturinq requirements. The trousers shall be manufactured in strict accordance with the operations and the stitch, seam, and stitching types specified in Table I. 3.6.1.1. Operations. The sup

40、plier is not required to follow the exact sequence of operations listed in Table I, but all operations specified shall be used to manufacture the trousers. 3.6.1.2. Stitchinq, seams and stitchinqs. The stitch, seam, and stitching types specified in Table I shall conform to FED-STD-751. The number of

41、 stitches per inch as specified in Table I indicates the minimum and maximum number permitted. All overedge stitching shall be done on serging machines with a knife attachment properly set to trim the raveled edge without cutting the material. Where stitch type 401 is used, the looper (underthread)

42、shall be on the inside of the trousers. 3.6.1.2.1 Ends of seams and stitchinq. Ends of seams and stitching (stitch type 3011, except the ends of a continuous line of stitching, when not caught in another seam or stitching, shall be backtacked not less than 1/4 inch. The ends of a continuous line of

43、stitching shall be overlapped not less than 1/2 inch. When stitch type 401 is used, ends of seams and stitching shall be caught in other seams or stitching, the skipped stitches and thread breaks shall be repaired using stitch type 301 backstitched not less than 1/2 inch on each side of the skip or

44、break. 3.6.2 Buttonholes. Buttonholes shall be eyelet-end, taper-bar type, well worked over gimp with the end securely tacked. finished cut length shall be 5/8 inch. The bar at the end of the buttonhole shall have a minimum of four tacks, not including the first cross-over stitch. The 3.6.3 Shade ma

45、rkinq. The component parts of the trousers, except parts cut from ends, shall be shade marked to insure a uniform shade and size throughout the garment. Any method of shade marking may be used except: a. Corrosive metal fastening devices. b. Sew-on shade tickets. 8 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo re

46、production or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- vIL-DTL-82163D m 9999906 2051689 bO m MIL-DTL-82163D (MC) c. Adhesive type tickets which show discolorations or leave traces of paper or adhesive mass on the material upon the removal of the tickets. 3.6.4 Pressinq. All pressing operat

47、ions specified in Table I shall be accomplished with a heated pressing iron or pressing machine set at medium (low) temperature (285OF maximum). TABLE I. Manufacturinq requirements. - NO 1 2 OPERATION :ut trousers. L. Cut the trousers in strict iccordance with the patterns urnished by the Government

48、. ). Cut the material in the Iirection indicated by directional .ines on the patterns. Lay the fronts and backs so that the iirectional lines are in the warp iirection. :. Cut the component parts for the irousers from one piece of basic naterial, except the following ?arts may be cut rom ends: belt

49、Loops, left and right flies, pocket Dearers and facings, and under ply if pocket flaps. When so cut, the ?arts shall harmonize with the shade of the trousers. Ci. Cut the pockets on the straight 3f the material (warp direction) in xcordance with patterns. Cutting Di pockets in the direction of the filling is not permitted. Cut interlininas/lininss and buckram. a. Cut the right fly lining in accordance