NAVY MIL-C-29374-1979 CLOTH SERGE POLYESTER WOOL《聚酯或羊毛斜纹哔叽布料织物》.pdf

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1、MIL-C-2937q 83 9997906 0388353 O - C -m Beneficial comments (recommendations, additions, deletions) and any pertinent data which may be of use in improving this document should be addressed to the Commandant of the Marine Corps (LMA-l), Headquarters U. S. Marine Corps, Washington, D. C. Standardizat

2、ion Document Improvement Proposal (DD Form 1426) appearing at the end of this document or by letter. 20380, by using the self-addressed 1 MIL -C - 29374 15 January 1979 MILITARY SPECIFICATION CLOTH, SERGE: POLYESTER/WOOL This specification is approved for use by all Departments and Agencies of the D

3、epartment of Defense. 1. SCOPE 1.1 Scope. This specification covers one type of cloth, serge, poly- ester/wool. 2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS 2.1 Issue of documents. The following documents, of the issue in effect on date of invitation for bids or request for proposal, form a part of this specification to

4、 the extent specified herein: * SPECIFICATIONS FEDERAL PPP-P-1132 MILITARY MIL- C-4 36 65 STANDARDS FEDERAL FED-STD-19 1 - Packaging and Packing of Woolen, Worsted and - Wool Blend (Synthetic Fiber; Cotton) Fabrics - Cloth Wool: Mothproofing Treatment of - Textile Test Methods FSC 8305 o Provided by

5、 IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-C-27374 3 9779706 0388352 2 m . MIL-C-29374 MILITARY MIL-STD-655 - Provision for Evaluating Quality of Cloth, Wool, Worsted and Wool Blends (C es of specifications and standards required by contractors in conn

6、ection with specific procurement functions should be obtained from the procuring activity or as directed by the contracting officer,) 2.2 Other publications. The following documents form a part of this spe fication to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise indica- ted, the issue in effect on

7、date of invitation for bids, or request for proposal shall apply. LAWS AND REGULATIONS Rules and Regulations Under the Wool Products Labeling Act of 1939 , (Application for copies should be addressed to the Superintendent of Documents, Government Printing Office, Washington, D. C. 20402.) U. S. Depa

8、rtment of Agriculture Methods of Test for Grades of Wool Top (Application for copies should be addressed to the U. S. Department of Agriculture, Agricultural Marketing Service, Washington, D.C. 20402.) Technical Manual of the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists Method No. 128-1969

9、 - Wrinkle Recovery of Fabrics Appearance Method (Application for copies should be addressed to the AATCC, P. O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, N. C. 27709.) 3. REQUIREMENTS 3.1 Standard sample. The finished cloth shall match the standard sample for shade and shall be equal to or better than the

10、 standard saw ple with respect to all characteristics for which the standard sample is referenced (see 6.3). 3.2 First article. When specified (see 6.2), the contractor shall furnish sample cloth for first article inspection and approval. The first article shall consist of 5 yards, full width. The a

11、pproval of the first article authorizes the commencement of production, but does not relieve the contractor of the responsibility for compliance with 2 . . . Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-a MIL-C-29374 all provisions of the specific

12、ation. factured by the contractor in the same facilities to be used for the manufacture of the production cloth. The first article shall be manu- 3.3 Material. 3.3.1 Fibers. 3.3.1.1. Wool. The stock shall be fleece or pulled wool or both, not lower in grade than 62s U. S. Standard, when tested as sp

13、ecified in 4-5.1.2, The use of noils, laps, or other wool manufacturing by-products is prohibited. 3.3.1.2 Polyester. The stock shall be semidull polyester fiber made from polyethylene glycol terephthalate, either homopolymer or modified polymer as appropriate (see 4.5.1 and 6.5). fiber length shall

14、 be 3-1/4 inches when tested as specified in 4.5.1.1. The continuous filament textured yarn shall be 2/150/34 denier. spun polyester shall be 3.0 denier. prohibited, The minimum average spun The staple The use of polyester fiber waste is 3.3.2 Yarns. The spun polyester and wool fiber shall be blende

15、d into a single spun yarn and woven with a 100 percent continuous filament textured polyester yarn into an end and end, pick and pick arrangement in both warp and filling direction. following fiber percentages based on the oven-dry weight when tested as The finished cloth shall consist of the specif

16、ied in 4.7. . 77 percent (min), 83 percent (ma) polyester fiber, 17 percent (min), wool fiber, 62s U. S. Standard (or finer) NOTE: textured polyester yarn used in the body of the cloth and will be 2/150/34 denier (see 3.11). Selvage yarn shall be the same as the 100 percent continuous filament 3.4 D

17、siRn and construction. 3.4.1 Physical requirements. The finished cloth shall conform to the requirements shown in Table I when tested as specified in 4.7. Table I. Physical requirements Weight per Linear yd. Yarns per inch Breaking strength Tearing strength 56 inches Minimum Minimum Minimum Min. Max

18、. Warp Filling - Warp Filling Warp Filling Pounds 10.5 11.0 65 55 160 140 6 .O 6 .O 1 3 o Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-C-29374 83 = 77799Ob O388354 b MIL- C- 29 37 4 3.4.2 Weave. The weave shall be a two up and two down right h

19、and twill. 3.5 Performance. 3.5.1 Dimensional stability. The finished cloth shall not shrink r elongate more than 2.5 percent in the direction of the warp or filling when tested as specified in 4.7. 3.5.2 pH. The pH value of the water extract of the finished cloth shall be no less than 5.5 nor more

20、than 8.5 when tested as specified in 4.7. 3.6 Length and put-up. Unless otherwise specified (see 6.2), the cloth shall be furnished in continuous lengths each not less than 50 yards. Each length shall be put-up on full width rolls as specified in PPP-P-1132. 3.7 Width. Unless otherwise specified (se

21、e 6.2), the width shall be no less than 60 inches exclusive of selvages or exclusive of tuck in when woven on sulzer-type looms. r 3.8 Color. The color shall be as specified (see 6.2 and 6.4) and shall match the standard sample. The color may be obtained by piece dyeing. Monotone shades regardless o

22、f blend composition shall present a solid appearance with no more heatheriness than is displayed by-the standard sample. 3.8.1 Matching; The color of the finished cloth shall match the standard sample under artificial daylight of 75000 Kelvin and shall be a good approximation to the standard sam- pl

23、e under incandescent lamp light at 2800O Kelvin. having a color temperature 3.8.2 Colorfastness. The finished cloth shall show fastness to wet (dry) cleaning, crocking, perspiration and light equal to or better than the standard sample. or designated as applicable to colorfastness, the finished clot

24、h shall show “good“ fastness to wet (dry) cleaning, perspiration, and light, and shall show a Munsell Value for crocking not less than 3.0. fastness to light exposure time for good fastness shall be 40 standard fading hours. When no standard sample has been established The Test shall be as specified

25、 in 4.7. 3.9 Mothproofing. Mothproofing of the wool material in accordance with MIL-C-43665 shall be accomplished during dyeing as applicable (see 4.7) 3.10 Finish. The cloth shall be scoured, brushed, sheared, pressed The finished cloth shall show no more creping after shrinkage and decated so as t

26、o provide a finish equal to that of the standard sample. 4 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- L MIL-C-27374 83 7777706 0388355 8 MIL-C- 29374 test than exhibited by the standard sample. not show wrinkling to a degree greater than as sho

27、wn by the standard sam- ple after one dry cleaning, The finished cloth shall Testing shall be as specified in 4.7. 3.10.1 Pilling. The cloth shall be singed and finished to show no more pilling than the standard sample when tested as specified in 4.7 (see 6.5.4) 3.11 Selvages. The selvages shall be

28、SO constructed that in the finished cloth they shall lie flat when the material is laid out for cutting . 3.12 Marking. The back of the cloth.shal1 be marked “BACK“ at both The marking shall be clearly legible in any indelible mark- ends of each roll with letters not less than 1/2 inch in height (se

29、e 4.5.2.3). ing medium used commercially. 3.13 Workmanship. The finished cloth shall conform to the quality established by this specification. “he demerit points per 100 square yards when calculated as specified in Section 4 shall not exceed the established maximum point value. Each defect shall be

30、marked with a 1 to 1-1/2 inch long string. The string shall be sewn into the selvage near the defect. A red string shall represent a three or four point defect and a white string represent a one or two point defect (see 4.5.2.5). 4. QUALITY ASSURANCE PROVISIONS 4.1 Responsiblity for inspection. Unle

31、ss otherwise specified in the contract, the contractor is responsible for the performance of all inspection requirements as specified herein. Except as otherwise speci- fied in the contract, the contractor may use his own or any other faci- lities suitable for the performance of the inspection requi

32、rements specified herein, unless disapproved by the government. The government reserves the right to perform any of the inspections set forth in the specification where such inspections are deemed necessary to assure I supplies and services conform to prescribed requirements. - 4.2 Certificate of co

33、mpliance. Where certificates of compliance are submitted, the Government reserves the right to check test such items to determine the validity of the certification. 4.3 Classification of inspection. The inspection requirements speci- fied-herein are classified as follows: a. b. First article inspect

34、ion (see 4.4). Quality conformance inspection (see 4.5). -. c t r 5 1 . - - . . . Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-C-27374 3 7777706 0388356 T MIL-C-29374 4.4 First article inspection. When first article is required, it shall be te

35、sted as specified in 4.7. 4.5 Quality conformance inspection. Sampling for inspection shall be performed in accordance with the provisions set forth in MIL-STD-655, except where otherwise indicated hereinafter. 4.5.1 Component and material inspection. In accordance with 4.1 above, components and mat

36、erials shall be tested in accordance with all the requirements ob referenced specifications, drawings and standards unless otherwise excluded, amended, modified or qualified in this speci- fication OP applicable purchase documents. 4.5.1,l Polyester. The polyester fiber shall be tested and identifie

37、d as specified in Table II. Table II. Component test method Characteristic Requirement paragraph Test method Polyester identification Length of fiber Denier 3.3.1.2 3.3.1.2 3.3.2 4.7.1 L/ Visual undyed fiber. The modified polymer will dye to a red shade, the homopolymer This test is applied to the 4

38、.7.1.1 Fiber. The polyester filament shall be insoluble in each of the following solvents: acetone (boiling), 70 percent sulfuric acid, The methylene chloride shall be prepared by mixing nine parts reagent methylene chloride with one part U. S. P. (95 percent) ethyl alcohol. The methylene chloride s

39、olution is extremely toxic and adequate venti- lation2r use of fume hood is recommended. the above solvents shall be used at room temperature, using 100 times as much reagent as fiber. The fiber shall remain in the solvent for . 10 minutes with intermittent stirring, -. t 5 .O percent sodium hydroxi

40、de (boiling), and methylene chloride (boiling) . Unless otherwise specified, This is a visual qualitative test. , Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-C- 29374 5. PACKAGING - MIL-C-27374 83 m 7777706 0388360 1 m 1 - 5.1 Put-up and pack

41、aginq. Put-up and packaging shall be level A or C as specified (see 6.2). 5.1.1 Levels A and C. The cloth shall be put up and packaged in accordance with the applicable requirements of PPP-P-1132 except that the moth repellent requirements shall not apply. 5.2 Packing. Packing shall be level A, B or

42、 C as specified (see 6.2). 5.2.1 Levels A, B and C. The cloth shall be packed in accordance with the applicable requirements of PPP-P-1132. 5.3 Marking. contract or order, shipments shall be marked in accordance with the re- quirements of PPP-P-1132. In addition to any special marking required in th

43、e 6. NOTES 6.1 Intended use. The cloth covered by this specification is intended for Marine Corps womens maternity uniforms. 6.2 Ordering data. Procurement documents should specify the following: 6.2.1 Procurement requirements. (a) Title, number and date of this specification. (b) When first article

44、 is required (see 3.2). (c) Length required if other than specified (see 3.6). (d) (e) Color of cloth required (see 3.8). (f) Width of cloth required when other than specified (see 3.7). Selection of applicable levels of put-up, packaging and packing (see 5.1 and 5.2). 6.2.2 Contract data requiremen

45、ts. Data conforming to Data Item Des- criptions DI-R-4803, DI-R-4805, DI-T-4901, DI-T-4902, DI-T-4903, and - DI-T-4904 will usually be required for delivery in connection with this specification for Marine Corps procurements. Corps, the cognizant procuring activity will provide comparable Data Item

46、Descriptions. delivery on a Form DD-1423 included in the contract. For other than Marine When so required, such data will be specified for 6.3 Staidard sample. For access to standard sample (see 3.1) , address the procuring office issuing the invitation for bids. t 10 P Provided by IHSNot for Resale

47、No reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-C-29374 6.4 Dyestuff formulations. Suggested, but not mandatory, dyestuff formulations are as follows: Marine Corps Green Shade 2243 Disperse Dyes (Polyester) Resolin Blue GFL Foron Red 26 Disperse Orange 41 Acid Dyes (Wool) Ac

48、id Black 58 Acid Red 174 Acid Yellow 114 6.5 Notes of caution to manufacturers. 6.5.1 Polyester fiber type. The choice of the polyester fiber type should be made by the contractor for a minimum pilling tendency and the fiber which will meet the colorfastness level of the specification (see 3.802) 6.

49、5.2 Fiber length. The longest staple length commensurate with the staple of the wool, with proper twist multipliers to prevent pilling, should be used in the manufacture of this cloth (see 3.3.1.2). 6.5.3 Twist in the yarns. The twist in the yarns for the ply shall be such that the polyester fibers shall be so locked within the yarn structure that migration in subsequent processing and in the we