NAVY MIL-C-29127 A-1978 CLOTH TWILL POLYESTER COTTON (CREASE RESISTANT FINISH)《涤棉斜纹织布(抗皱整理)》.pdf

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1、I I b MIL-C-29127A 3 9999906 04b2930 3 W * . . . MlL-Cy29 2 7A(BA) - SUPERSEDING MIL-C-29127 (SA) 31 August 1973 MILITARY SPECIFICATION CLOTH, TWILL, POLYESTER/COTTON (CREASE-RESISTANT FINISH) This specification is approved for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense. 1. SCO

2、PE 1.1 Scope. This specification covers the requirements for polyester and cotton blend twill fabrics treated with a crease-resistant finish. 1.2 Classification. The cloth shall be of one type in the following classes (see 6.2): Class 1 - dyed Class 2 - white 2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS 2.1 Issue of doc

3、uments. The following documents of the issue in effect on date of invitation for bids or request for proposal form a part of this specification to the extent specified herein. SPECIFICATIONS FEDERAL PPP-P-1134 - Packaging and Packing of Cotton and Cotton Synthetic Fiber Blend Fabrics (Excluding Duck

4、 Fabrics) MILITARY NIL-T-43548 - Thread, Polyester, Cotton-covered MIL-T-43624 - Thread, Polyester, Spun Beneficial comments (recommendations, additions, deletions) and any pertinent data which may be of use in improving this document should be addressed to: Officer 5 marge, Navy Clothing and Textil

5、e Research Facility, 21 Strathmore Road, Ntrtclc, MA 01760, by using the self-addressed Standardization Document Improvement Proposal (DD Form 1426) appearing at the end of this document or by letter, FSC 8305 -. I ! Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without licens

6、e from IHS-,-,-MIL-C-29 127A( SA) STANARDS FEDERAL FED-STD-4 FED-STD-191 - Textile Test Methods - Glossary of Fabric Imperfections MILITARY MIL-STD-105 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes (Copies of specifications, standards, drawings and publications required by contractor

7、 in connection with specific procurement functions should be obtained from the procuring activity or as directed by the contracting officer) . * LAWS AND REGULATIONS Rules and Regulations Under the Textile Fiber P;oducts Identification Act (Copies may be obtained without charge from the Federal Trad

8、e Commission, Washington, D. C. 20580). 3. REQUIREMENTS . 3.1 Standaid sample. The finished cloth shall match the standard sample for shade and shall be equal to or better than the standard sample with respect to all characteristics for which the standard sample is referenced (see 6.3). . * 3.2 Firs

9、t article. When specified (see 6.2), the contractor shall furnish sample unit(s) for first article inspection and approval (see. 4.3). ., . . - . _I, - . . 3.3 Nateriais. . . _. 3.3.1 Fiber blend. 3.3.1.1 Polyes ter fiber , The fiber shall be:.po:ly&hylene-gIcol terephtha- .-, ._. - . . . _. . . , .

10、,. .i _:a_ . . r. late, semi-duil The denier shall not be greater .than: 2.T aqd .tKe staple shall be approximately. 1 1f2 incbes (3.8cm) in. length. ,. .-.A.,., .,. . “ 3.3.1.2 Cotton fiber. The cotton shall be _._. combed. - . 3.3.2 m. The warp and filling yarn shall be a blend of 50 (+ 3) percent

11、: polyester and the remaining percentage cotton based on the dry weight on the de-sized and bleached ioh before treatment. The warp shall be a two-ply yarn and tbe filling shall be a singles yarn. 2 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- t

12、Weight (min) i (min) loz/sq yd(g/rnzi Warp Filling . . .- MIL-C-29127A(SA) lbs. (newton) (min) i lbs. (newton) (min Warp Filling j Warp Fillin I 3.4 Color. .3.4.1 Class 1, dyed. The color of the dyed cloth shall be as (see 6.2) and shall match the standard sample. specified 3.4.1.1 Sulfur content. T

13、he use of sulfur dyes or dyes containing elementary sulfur or sulfur compounds capable of oxidation to sulfuric acid is prohibited. The finished cloth shall contain no more labile sulfur than shown by the standard sample when tested as specified in 4.5. When a standard sample is not available, the d

14、yed and finished cloth shall show no more than a slight trace of labile sulfur as defined in the test method when tested as specified in 4.5. 3.4.1.2 Colorfastness. The finished cloth shall show colorfastness to laundering (after 3 cycles), crocking, perspiration and light equal to or better than th

15、e standard sample (see 6.3). When no standard sample is available, the cloth shall show a minimum of “good“ colorfastness to laundering (after 3 cycles), perspiration, light and a Munsell value for crocking not lower than 8.5, when tested as specified in 4.5. 3.4.2 Class 2, white. .The color of the

16、class 2 finished cloth shall be white 3053 conforming to the standard sample when tested as specified. cloth within any one contract shall be processed for whiteness in the same manner, hydrogen peroxide or peroxygen chemicals. mented with fluorescent optical brighteners which fluoresce to the blue

17、region All The color shall be obtained with a chemical bleach, preferably with The chemical bleach may be supple- 3.4.2.1 Discoloration. The color shall show no more discoloration to light, perspiration and combined laundering and bleaching than that of the standard sample when tested as specified i

18、n 4.5. 3.4.3 Matching. The color of the finished cloth shall match the standard sample under artificial daylight having a color temperature of 7500Kelvin and shall be a good approximation to the standard sample under incandescent lamplight at 2800Kelvin. 3.5 Physical requirements. The finished cloth

19、 shall conform to the requirements specified in Table I when tested as specified in 4.5. Table I - Physical requirements I i Yarns per inch (cm) Breaking strength j Tearing strengt 6.8 (231) I 102 (48) 50(20) !170(757) 85(378) 7.0(31) 5.0 (2 3.5.1 icidth. The width of the finished cloth shall be as

20、specified (see 6.2) and shall be the minimum acceptable width inclusive of selvages. 3 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-C-29127A( SA) 3.5.2 Weave. The weave shall be a 2 up 1 down, right-hand twill, 3.6 Non-fibrous materials. The t

21、otal non-fibrous material. content of the finished cloth shall. not exceed 6.0 percent when tested as specified in 4.5. 3.7 Finish. The cloth shall be desized, scoured, mercerized, heat set, bleached (Class 2 only) and treated with a resin to provide a crease resistant finish and hand equal in chara

22、cteristics to that of the standard sample and shall meet the requirements specified herein. The resin finish shall be of a non-chlorine retentive type and the material shall show no loss of colorfastness or no more discoloration than the standard sample when tested as specified in 4.5. 3.8 pH. The p

23、H value of the water extract of the finished cloth shall be not less than 5.0 nor more than 8.5 when tested as specified in 4.5. 3.9 Shrinkage. The cloth shall be preshrunk so that it shall not shrink mo:e than 2.0 percent in the warp or filling when tested as specified in 4.5. The preshrinking proc

24、ess shall not be identified by name or trademark either on the cloth or on the ticket or package. 3.10 Seam efficiency. The cloth shall have a seam efficiency of not less than 90 percent when tested as specified in 4.5. 3.11 Length and put-uE. The minimum length of a continuous piece shall be 40 yar

25、ds, PPP-P-1134. The pieces shall be put up in rolls and ticketed as specified in 3.12 Fiber identification. Each roll shall be labeled or ticketed for fiber content in accordance with the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act. 3.13 Face identification. The face side of the cloth shall be identif

26、ied by stamping on that side with the work “Face“ at each end of the.rol1. . 3.14 Workmanship. The finished cloth shall conform to the quality established by this specification. established maximum point value. The demerit points per 100 square yards (83. 6m2) when calculated as specified in section

27、 4 . - -4. .* 4. QUALITY ASSURANCE PROVISIONS 4.1 Responsibility for inspection. Unless otherwise specified in the con- tract, the contractor is responsible for the performance of all inspection requirements as specified herein. tract, the contractor may use his own or any ather facil.itie? suitable

28、 for the perf ormance of the inspection requirements sPecf id-herein, gnless dis- approved by the Government. The Governmen-t reserves the right to perform any of the inspections set forth in the specifica-tion- wher-e such inspections are deemed necessary to assrre that supplies and services confor

29、m to prescribed Except as otherwise specified in the con- requireKents. A Li Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-e MIL-C-27L27A 3 m 7799906 046273Ll O m / , . 4.1.1 Certificate of compliance. Where certificates of compliance are submitted

30、, the Government reserves the right to check test such items to determine the validity of the certification. * 4.2 Classification of inspection. The inspection requirement specified herein are classified as follows: 1. First article inspection (see 4.3). 2, Quality conformance inspection (see 4.4).

31、4.3 First article inspection. When required, the first article of the finished cloth shall be visually inspected for shade, finish and appearance and shall be tested for chemical and physical properties in accordance with the applicable methods specified in 4.5. . 4.4 Quality conformance inspection.

32、 Sampling for inspection shall be performed in accordance with MIL-STD-105, except where otherwise indicated hereinafter. 4.4.1 Component and material inspection. In accordance with 4.1 above, components and materials shall be tested in accordance with all the requirements of referenced specificatio

33、ns, drawings and standards unless otherwise excluded, amended, modified or qualified in this specification or applicable purchase documents. 4.4.2 Examination of the end item. Defects found during examination shall be classified in accordance with 4.4.2.1 thru 4.4.2.3. 4.4.2.1 Yard-by-yard examinati

34、on. Each roll in the sample shall be examined on the face side only. not exceed 100 yards, (91.4111) the entire yardage in the roll shall be examined. When the total yardage in the roll exeeds 100 yards (91.4m), only 100 yards (91.4m) shall be examined. Defects as defined in Section I of FED-STD-4 w

35、hich are clearly visible at normal inspection distance (3 feet) (O.%) shall be scored and assigned demerit points as listed in 4.4.2.1.1 except that only those slubs and knots which exceed the limits shown on Sears Fabric Defect Scales (see 6.41, “C“ for slubs and “B“ for knots, shall be scored. No

36、linear yard (increment of one yard (0.h) on the measuring device of the inspection machine) from any one roll within the sample, shall be penalized more than 4 points. The sample size shall be 20 rolls selected from 20 containers. For determination of acceptability on the tage quality of the lot, th

37、e lot shall be unacceptable if the points pet 100 square yards (83.6m2) exceed 25 points. For determination of acceptablLty on the individual roll quality basis, the- lot shall be unacceptalkle if two or more individual rolls exceed 38 points per 100 square yards (83.6m2). If one roll exceeds the po

38、int level, a second sample of 20 rolls shall be selected for individual roll quality examina- tion only. Point computation for the lot quality and individual roll quality shall be as follows: When the total yardage in the roll does . If one or more rolls exceed the value, the lot shall rejected. Pro

39、vided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-WIL-C- 2 91 2 7A (SA) Total points scored in sample x 3600 Contracted width of cloth (inches) x Total yards inspected = Points per 100 cquare2j.ards (83.6m 4.4.2.1.1 Demerit points. Demerit points shall be

40、 assigned as follows: For defects 3 inches (7.6cm) or less in any dimension - one point For defects exceeding 3 inches (7.6cm), but not exceeding 6 inches (15.2cm) in any dimension - two point For defects exceeding 6 inches (15.2cm) , but not exceeding 9 inches (22.9cm) in any dimension - three poin

41、ts For defects exceeding 9 inches (22.91) in any dimension - four points The following defects, when present, shall be scored four points or each yard (0.9m) in which they occur: Baggy, ridgy or wavy cloth Width of cloth less than specified Characteristics of finish, hand and shade not equal to the

42、standard sample Non-uniformity of shade (poor dye penetration, mottled, streaky or cloudy) Excessive neppiness 4.4.2.2 Examination for length. 4.4.2.2.1 Individual rolls. During the yard-by-yard examination, each roll in the sample shall be examined for length. Any length found to be less than the m

43、inimum specified or more than two yards (1.8m) less than the length marked on the ticket shall be considered a defect with respect to length. are defective in respect to length. The lot shall be unacceptable if two or more rolls in the sample 4.4.2.2.2 Total yardage in sample. The lot shall be unacc

44、eptable if the total of the actual lengths of rolls in the.sample is less than the total of the lengths marked on the tickets. The rolls examined shall be those selected for the examination of individual rolls. r. 4.4.2.3 Examination for shade variation During the yard-by-yard examination, each roll

45、 in the sample shall be examined or shade variation. roll in the sample exhibiting uneven shade, shaded variati& side to side, side to center or end to end shall be cause for. tejection:of. the entire lot Any represented by the sample. , .& - .I 4.4.2.4 Examination for face identification, identific

46、ation of pre- . During the yard-by-yard examination each roll in the sample shall be shrinkage process and compliance with Textile Fiber Products Identification Act. examined for these defects. rolls in the sample have face identification -missi% fironf.eibheii or %oth ends, contain identification o

47、f the preshrinkage process by name or trade- mark on the cloth or ticket, or are not labelled or ticketed in accordance with the Textile Fiber ?roducts Identification Act. The lot shall be unScceptableff two or more 6 i I Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without l

48、icense from IHS-,-,-l MIL-C-27L2A 3 7977706 04b2736 4 m e . . - MIL-G-2912TA(SA) - 4.4.3 Examination of packaging requiremGs-. An examination shall be made in accordance with the provisions of PPP-P-1134 to determine that . packaging, packing and marking complies with Section 5 requirements of this

49、specification. 4.5 Testing of the end item. The methods of testing specified in FED-STD-191, wherever applicable and as listed in Table II, shall be followed. to the results of the determinations made on a sample unit for test purposes as specified in the applicable test method. shall contain the individual values utilized in expressing the final result. The sample unit shall be 3 continuous yards (2.7 continuous meters) full